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That's pretty badass. Please post details!

2013 Zero XU in good shape except I don't have working batteries for it. You will need to source them through Zero or build a pack yourself.

Been meaning to fix this up myself, but haven't had the time.

$1000, local pickup only, in Andover, MA.

What a tragedy.  Seems so unfair to have ridden it only 1000 mi.  You must have gotten a good deal on the bike if the repair costs are so unfavorable... not that it's much consolation.

Is the theory that the chargers went bad and somehow drained the cells?

I don't suppose there's anyone out there selling batteries off a wrecked 2013 FX or XU?  (You may even be able to search years before and after if the cell compliment didn't change by swapping the BMS heads.)

If it's really for scrap, maybe I can help you recoup something from your (shippable) spare parts.

Really sorry to hear in any event.

My working theory is that the chargers or the CCU went bad, and something about the fault caused the batteries to drain simultaneously. I can't come up with any other explanation to explain how I lost 5 kWh of energy in a week while the bike sat idle in a garage.

I made a mathematical mistake in the "3x" repair cost (forgot that the price I paid was offset by my old bike). The XU cost $5000 new (factory demo) in 2015. The cost of replacing the batteries alone is $6500. Chargers would be another $300. Even if I do all the labor myself it's just not economical at all.

I will look into rebuilding the packs but I don't have any assurance that the BMS is good. I'd hate to drop a couple $k on 18650s only to have a third project on my hands. Maybe there is another way to test the BMS. Or I could go with an offboard charging solution although that really complicates charging at work.

I'll consider these options but will probably part it out. I have been searching for other '13 XU wrecks but there are so few of these things and I don't want to keep it in the garage indefinitely. It's depressing every time I look at it and I'll be much happier to get something usable in its place.

Thanks. I did see that. I think this one (https://zeromanual.com/images/a/ae/ZeroWireDrawing_2013_S_11-4_R-1-3-0_grid_highRes.pdf) is a bit closer, as 2014+ models don't have a CCU.

My best guess at this point is that I have a battery fault in both batteries. Frustrating considering they are only 2.5 years old and no longer sold, and local dealer has no way to service them. I can rebuild with new cells, but if the BMS is faulty I will probably just sell the bike for parts. 

Unfortunately I'm in Boston (and seemingly far away from anybody who knows how to service this model, including my local dealer).

I just disassembled more or less the entire bike to get a closer look. One thing I notice is that when I plug into a wall outlet, there is an LED light near the power supply that turns red momentarily, and blinks red twice when I unplug it. I can't find a schematic to figure out what this LED is representing (it's not the display LED; it's buried in the wiring), and I don't see anything on the HLG-320H-54A spec sheet that indicates what it is. But I'm going to dig at that and see what it's connected to and whether that output is significant.

I have a 2013 XU that won't turn on. Looking for general advice and a couple specific answers.

First, some facts:

* Last used a week ago. Battery was at 30% when I plugged it in to charge.
* Green charge LED no longer illuminates when plugged in.
* I *do* hear the relay click when I plug the bike in.
* Dash display is completely blank and not illuminated when I turn the motorcycle on.
* Voltage across the battery terminals (both batteries) is a little under a volt.
* No LED action on the 4 battery BMS LEDs.
* All four fuses are intact.

Questions:
1. Is it normal to only measure one volt across battery terminals, or is that my problem? Wasn't sure if there is some sort of short circuit protection where a voltage would only be present if a pilot is provided, etc.
2. Does the blank BMS LEDs mean both my batteries are fried?
3. Any thoughts on next steps to troubleshoot this?

Thanks in advance for any help.

I don't own both yet but I will on Friday (picking up a factory demo 2013 XU with 195 miles on it).

We own a Tesla 85D. It's amazing. Smooth, sporty, beautiful and fun -- the hype is well earned. If you are on the fence and can afford it, you will not regret it.

I would not worry about buying a Tesla that was involved in a collision, even if it was a salvage. Tesla has pretty strict quality control over its cars. If a car is in a bad accident and receives severe damage that its computer can detect (say, an airbag goes off), Tesla won't even reactivate the car unless it has been repaired at a Tesla approved shop or is subsequently certified by a Tesla technician (if you search over at TMC, you can find a bunch of threads on this, as well as some sour grapes from people who wanted to buy damaged cars, only to risk not having Tesla enable them). If you can verify the work was done at a Tesla certified shop, you can be assured they know aluminum well and received extensive training straight from the manufacturer.

Good luck, and enjoy.