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I find it odd that Zero would use ball bearings in their headstocks. Especially on the heavier premium bikes, tapered roller Timken style bearings would be better IMO. If I ever take mine apart I'm going to switch to that style.

Thanks. I also realized there are detailed pictures in the unofficial manual on this forum. Apparently the fuse I'm looking for is under the batteries on the left side.

I swapped to a master cylinder from a Suzuki DRZ400. Pretty simple though I might have had to change the terminal ends for the brake light switch. That allowed me to choose from a wide array of options, folding, adjustable, etc. Went with a Zeta folding unbreakable billet or whatever. Works great, looks the shit!

http://www.zeta-racing.com/lever/pivot_lever_set/index.html

Half the cost of the OEM lever which is overpriced and made of Brieluminum  (a soft alloy) and as an added bonus the brake light switch is available separately.

Sounds like the motor timing is out of spec. The dealer should be able to "commission" it or whatever it's called. May fix it.

Are they upside down? Meaning the contact has a detent that clicks into the housing spring. It only goes one way. Should click in and you shouldn’t be able to pull it out (unless you release the spring)

Pump the brakes turbo! There’s a lot going on here that you need to consider in order to be able to swap wheels quickly.

Rim size. FXE has 17” rims, 320mm front brake rotor (which uses a different caliper and mount)

The FX which uses spoked rims are 18” rear and 21” front which is better suited to dirt.

Rear is a straight swap but you’ll need another pulley and rotor unless you want to swap those to your other wheel.

Rear wheel will be approximately

$300 rim
$50 rotor
$150 pulley
+ tire, tube, rim strip, hardware and air!

Your around $6-700 USD, depending on what tire you choose.

The front is more complicated and therefore expensive.

You should be able to find a 17” knobby or whatever on the stock rim but it’s not going to handle like a purpose built dirt weapon.

Still $300 rim, $80 rotor, tire, etc.

Or use a stock FX wheel with a 320mm rotor. Nobody makes one that I can find but one could be custom made or modified from a supermoto rotor.

If you had FX fork legs, rotor, caliper and wheel you can do a straight bolt on swap. May want to get the master cylinder as well which requires opening up the brake system, bleeding etc. this will be even more expensive and will take more than 10 minutes.

I don’t know what exactly you want to do on this bike so I won’t suggest any specific tires. However some dual sport tread on the stock 17”s would probably be a blast to take anywhere.

Hope this helps helps in some capacity 

Say10

For what purpose? Adding 100# (2 additional packs) to that chassis would defeat the fact that it’s a light, flickable machine. Everyone is after more range but I don’t think the bike is comfortable enough that you would want to ride it that far.

I think the left is 22mm, right 24mm.