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P.S. for $220 and up you could replace your onboard with a suitable TC Electronics charging module but there is some similar DIY factor like what you are doing now. I bought an 1800W charger module from EVComponents (link to China seller) and plan to do just that with my own bike to shave some weight - it's low enough power output that you don't need any fancy charge algorithm. When I have time to mess with it I'll document how it goes, but so far I found it to be an acceptably rugged construction. Just trying to find a schematic how does the bottom face connector get documented when I only know English language and no idea how to ask for the wiring diagram from the seller. For twice the cost Electric Conversions (Elcon) of California has the same exact product but with support and programming capabilities. I've heard it is either charging enable or it is CANbus... how to test what it is?

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Thanks for the heads up on that Shadow. Could be a good option. I'll check it out.

When my DC2DC died, it was on and off (drove me nuts) for a couple of days until it was just off...

Replaced the DC2DC and walla problem solved.

The stock charger on my 2015 SR is dying a slow, cruel death...
Started with a flashing dash and a max SOC of 98% and over the course of a couple of months can now only bring the battery to 54%.

This is actually a replacement charger after the original failed about 6 months into life.

I have been trying to procure a diginow charger as a replacement but due to a huge backlog (wishing Brandon a quick recovery!) and import restrictions, I still find myself with a bike that has a slowly decaying 60 km range...

Which brings me to my request for help, I have access to a 2013 OEM charger and would like to use this as a bridge charger until I can get a diginow. The 2013 charger (A stack of 4 Meanwell HLG-320H-54As) was originally designed to work in conjunction with the CCU. I am planning to re-purpose the charger to be used as an Aux charger through the back of the battery by installing the SBS-75x connector to the C+ and C- lines coming out of the charger. There is no signaling available.

I plan to still use the stock charger to initiate the charge cycle and close the contactor then plug in the aux charger to supplement the charge hopefully allowing me to increase my dismal SOCs.

Is there anything that I need to watch out for? I'm a little worried that without any signaling the meanwells could go rogue especially with the malfunctioning on-board charger. Would it be better to just key on the bike (I charge in my garage so I can leave the bike on during charging) and not plug in the stock charger?

I've been toying around with my Kinect sensor and some SW for some projects that I've been working on (to be posted in subsequent threads) and did a scan of my partially disassembled bike. It's a bit rough around the edges but it allows me to make the measurement I need to fit some parts that I am trying make for the bike.

Attached is pic of what the scan looks like, it can be visualized and manipulated using a free software called Meshlab (http://meshlab.sourceforge.net/).

For those interested in accessing the scan I put it in my public dropbox, you're welcome to PM me for the link to download.

The bike looks great!

I am considering installing a front cowl fixed to the frame of my 15 SR (not to the forks). I was curious how you got the front fairing stay onto the neck of the bike. Specifically, how were the fairing stay tabs installed? Was it done by welding (TIG or oxy acy), aluminum brazing/soldering, metal adhesives or some other process?

I'm looking for a low temperature process and I've seen some processes for 6061-t6 aluminum (what I think is the grade used by zero) that maybe very applicable but it would be great to get some feedback from someone who has already done it.

I'm having trouble coming to terms with those Dyno run data, Doc.

If the bike is electronically limited to 6000 RPM which corresponds to 160 kph then according to the graph at 80 kph (3000 rpm) we should start experiencing a severe drop in acceleration. That has not been my experience after testing my 0-100 times (I attached a graph that I posted on another thread), wonder what could be the cause of the discrepancy?

If the dyno run is accurate, it would make a strong argument for a gearbox...

I just don't get the stubborn lack of fairings...

It just seems like such a no brainer - increase range (especially highway which is needed most) and improved weather protection with minimal design and manufacturing costs and only a minute increase in weight.