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Messages - ZeroMark

Pages: [1] 2
1
My 2014 DS 11.4 was working great all of these years.  Because of my previous job, I was only commuting like 3 miles each way/day so I've got 20,000 miles on the bike.  Bike performance flawless, strong, and could easily reach over 85 on highway for sustained amounts of time.  Lately, towards the end of last year, I took it out and was going down a road at 65, when all of a sudden it started slowing down.  Battery around 85% or so.  Couldn't add throttle.  When Itried to by holding it down more for increase in throttle, the display went to -- instead of 85% and started blinking.  I had to pull over because the bike basically stopped powering the motor.  Left it by side of road for an hour and returned.  Came back 1 hour later, turned on key and it went to 35%.  Got on bike drove home and recharged back to 100%.  Last 3 trips on bike, same issue.  Around 85%, If I'm going 50+ mph, bike starts slowing down.  Now I figured out that if I back down to maybe 30-35 mph I can continue driving, but each application of throttle more then about 35 it will cause the motor to slow down/lose power.  Basically allowed me to limp to where I can get to and plug it in.

I have't tried to read the diag codes on the battery brick in the little circular window, but at 6 years, I'm wondering if my cells are misleading me into thinking that 100% is still 100%.

Today's trip 3 miles up one road to the home improvement store, and it was doing in again once I got over 50 mph - and that was starting at 98% on the gauge at the start out of the garage.

Try to ride 14 miles each way to work for my new job is out of the question.  I can't trust the bike for short trips, and I know it can't possible do the long ones.

Anyone else see this behavior?  It's like the more current you apply, the faster this condition arrives and the greater the change I will be stuck somewhere.

Is it practical to think my dealer here in Las Vegas could replace bad cells in the monolith if that's the problem, or is 6 years the practical life of my 2014 DS 11.4?  I want to ride my Zero to work down the 215 freeway for 14 miles, but I can't even get up and maintain freeway speed anymore.

Mark (ZeroMark)
in Henderson, Las Vegas, NV
2014 DS 11.4

2
I towed my 2014 11.4 Zero DS on a trailer I bought from Harbor Freight for $249.00.  You have to assemble it yourself, but it has a 4 x 8 foot box, it tilts up and down, and the trailer folds in 1/2 and stands up on end for easy storage.  It can handle 1920 lbs, and a simple hitch I bolted underneath my Kia Soul was a breeze to put on (3 bolts for the hitch - $79.00 kit) and a lite-extender kit to plug into the Kia's brake and tail lights was $49.00 and installed in the rear of the Soul in about 10 minutes.  Get the 20% off coupon from Harbor Freight's web site and you can get the trailer for about $199.00.  The tow hitch and light kit came from an online site etrailer.com.  The trailer can be built "naked" or with side panels or stake-side panels so you can haul the bike and anything else you want back there.  It practically balances itself with the bike on the center/middle of the trailer, so the weight on the car is virtually nothing. -Mark

3
Thank you everyone... For the prices quoted I think I'll replace them rather then try to paint or mess with them. -Mark

4
I was curious of anyone has really found anything or any way to clean the white plastics or "restore the bright white" in the white plastics like the tank and tail plastics.  I have my 2014 DS and the beautiful bright white it came with is now faded and yellowing slightly even though the bike is parked in the shade and in the garage even on work days.  After 4 years, I have found that the owners manual cleaning suggestions don't stop the fade and while it's all still flawless, the suggestions on the unofficial zero web site of mixing up some peroxide and trying to concoct sonm "retr0bright" doesn't sit well with me - that is unless someone else can confirm it actually works without causing more harm then good.

I'm starting to notice that with the color changing going on now with the 2017+ bikes, I'm seeing tanks and plastics for the Zero's show up on EBAY, however, it seems like there is more people turning their existing bikes to the white color (and thus putting their YELLOW and RED tank and tail plastics up for sale) then there is giving up the white ones, so believe me - if and when I find some WHITE DS TANK and TAIL PLASTICS on EBAY, I'm certainly going to consider it at the prices they seem to be asking (I've seen $125 / $150 for new yellow tanks even with the charge tank version up there).

Does anyone here in the USA want to give me an idea what ZERO wants for WHITE TANK and TAIL plastics that would make my bike BRIGHT WHITE again?  I'm not looking to hold anyone's quote or go around my local dealer - but I just want a ballpark cost for comparison of the white tank and tail parts for my 2014 DS.  I don't have a white fender because DS bikes have the black motocross / enduro style fender so I don't care about fender costs.  All of this would help me decide whether it's worth replacing from ZERO, replacing from someone on EBAY, or whether some miracle cleaner out there can restore my dingy and yellowing white back to a brighter and cleaner white!

Thoughts anyone?

Mark

p.s. I like my bike's WHITE color.  I'm not interested in carbon fiber, changing to another color, or repainting it so don't try to discuss any of those 3 options.

5
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Plugless Power (Wireless Charging)
« on: October 14, 2016, 04:47:15 AM »
I was wondering if anyone has looked at anything like plugless recharging like they have for the LEAF, VOLT, Cadillac ELR and Tesla?  The units (www.pluglesspower.com ) sit on the floor and you drive over it and once it lines up with the induction unit on the car (or bike!) then charging can begin.  The units they show on their web site do 3.3Kw Level 2 wireless changing.

Anyways, I was wondering if anyone has looked into induction charging, and if anyone has anything working like this?

Ashley Harris at mailto:aharris@evatran.com is tracking interest in EV's and so if anyone wants something lke this, you could always drop her a note about your Zero.

In any case, the idea seems forward thinking even if the efficiency doesn't.  What do you guys think about it?

Mark Hripko (ZeroMark)

6
I took am just beginning my tire search for replacement of the 2014 DS tires which came with KENDA K761 Dual Sport TUBE tires.  The Michelin Anakee III AT tires look very interesting, but my tires have tubes and I didn't know if I should care that some manufacturers have separate part numbers (or none at all!) for tube tires, vs tubeless tires.  For exampkle, I was considering the Pirelli MT60's (since they are on the 2015 DS) but they seem less geared to street, and seem to wear fast and cost more.  They also seem to be built TL (tubeless).  Also the Pirelli MT-90 looks appealing, but same issues are there.  Shinko are recommended on some sites comparing the KENDA K761's, but they seem to have that same tread pattern that seems to be optimized for DS use, but listed more like a TL (Tubeless) tire again should I care about that? 

Sometimes I hate having these spooky (Halloween fun pun intended) spoked rims, and other times love and admire their beauty and function-but that means a tire with a tube in it will be what I'll have to deal with.

Prior to reading this post, I was considering another set of KENDA tires, as they both lasted 12K miles and i can still go plenty more on them.  But I dislike the way the front tire "cups up" or as many have said "looks like you have a circular saw blade for a front tire" in the way the center of each block cups up in the center like it's from hard breaking over that tire.

The Anakee III's look more like I would want (I bought the DS but do 98% of the riding on the streets of Las Vegas) but they also read like tubeless

In any case, the prices at motorcycle-superstore.com always seem to blow me away, and in this case, every tire named is there and on sale.

-MARK HRIPKO

7
Terry - 1. Anything that would allow more uninterrupted range I would be interested in!  I was daydreaming at the recent reunion event that I almost wish that they had an SDS chassis that had the swappable battery compartment of the FXS, and maybe if we were lucky, a battery box for the SDS that wasn't the sealed monolith that we have, but instead one that held from 1 to 4 hot-swappable modules.  Then, not only would your idea of carrying them or even "renting them" from the dealer be attractive, but zero could basically grow the business in both directions by offering like a 1 module SDS motorcycle for a much lower price-point, allowing the customer the ability to grow into longer range as needed by getting more (for example, getting the missing 3 if you buy a bike with a 1 module subsystem.

2. It's clear to me that battery technology is about to take some sort of leap in both capacity, as well as economies of scale-lowering of price.  If a battery in the next few months offers say 4X the capacity and/or costs 1/4 the price, then the 1 module, growing into 4 module type of setup not only makes sense to me, but seems like it should be the highlight of the 2017 product line!  Seems like leapfrog in battery technology is coming like a train very fast so I'd almost prefer to have swappable modules in my SDS so I could run light and lean (imagine shaving 150 lbs off the bike for my daily commute to work and back by only running one module in the SDS bike) but still could drop in the other modules for range when the long distance trip I want to take is before me.

3. Interesting thing if you look up the Mercedes Benz designed SMART CAR, they sell it now with a price that includes NO BATTERIES, and you purchase or "lease" your batteries as a separate agreement.  Makes for interesting pricing, and while the model of the lease doesn't seem to apply to Zero batteries, especially if they outlast the lifetime of the bike, but the idea of treating the battery subsystem like a commodity much like double-AA cells in the real world brings forth some interesting ideas.

4. Although I love the beauty of the SDS style bikes and hate the thought of what seeing an FX-style cage in the SDS frame might look like (compared to the elegant and beautiful monolith) I got to believe that is a cosmetic challenge Zero scientists can easily overcome and win me over on in a future machine.

5. So Yes! Yes! Yes!  Give me a way to plug in more range when I need it - and I'll buy it - because I truly believe that the pendulum on that will go both ways, and we will get range that is adjustable thru ideas like yours (carrying the modules ready to be used), while at the same time gaining the ability to reduce the weight and module count - IF IT MAKES SENSE FOR THE RIDER - in times when the weekly commute can be carried by one or two of them!

6. Will we see the SDS-FXXXXX  in 2017? (S/DS/DSR elegance with the hot-swap battery box) <-I heard "Service" saying that it takes way to long to put in the 5th module into the tank area so they could start by making that a hot-swap drop in - especially if battery capacity goes up in the very near future!

7. One last thought I've not heard anyone comment on but was curious about was the idea of the "range extender" technology like the Chevy Volt originally came out with.  The idea that you'd have some small ICE engine turning a big fat electrical GENERATOR  that in turn was pumping electricity into my battery modules on the zero while I'm traveling down the road.  (Forget about the way Chevy tied the ICE motor into the drive train, which was for other reasons non-essential to this discussion)  That generator subsystem on the Volt kicks in when the batteries reach 33% charge and basically with the tiny ICE running a generator feeding the batteries; it gives that Volt about 10X the distance.  That type of setup on anything besides the volt is something I'd like to explore.  Heck-locomotives that do the heavy work on the rail network across the USA have powerful electric motors powered by what?  Batteries that are fed from a generator in the same engine compartment fed by a diesel generator!  Sure-A Zero making ICE noise wouldn't be a Zero anymore, but if I could sit that little ICE box down in place of your "module" and hook it to my battery charging subsystem, I wonder how far I could go, and how quiet I still could be.

8. Oh yeah--my Smartphone can either be recharged by plugging a cord into it, or by getting it "in close proximity" to a charging station that provides that function.  I wonder if A) it's possible to charge a zero that way-no or in some not to distant future - and b) will we ever see a day when driving down the road and stopping at a plate in the road, near an intersection - or heck even blowing past it on the side of the road - could provide the charging or boost that we need to keep us all moving on down the road....  If my phone can do it-how about my bike?

-But YEAH - gimme swappable in my S/DS/DSR so i can have more range and I'll ride with ya - side by side - and we will start a new ZEROSTURGIS together.  One where Electric motorcycles and their owners come together after riding long distances using every creative way imaginable!  Including your way of carrying those extra modules!  I'm in and up for it and willing.

Mark Hripko

8
I'm coming out from Las Vegas and bringing my 2014 DS.  Looking forward to meeting everyone and the good time and information that will undoubtedly flow!  Thanks KrazyEd for making this happen!  Looking forward to a great whirlwind turnaround trip, and a great Zero Event! -ZeroMark Hripko

9
Electric Motorcycle News / Re: Zero 10th Anniversary Reunion
« on: September 09, 2016, 01:08:35 PM »
I'n coming out from Las Vegas with my 2014 DS in the back of a pickup (to get it there), but it's a nice 8 hour drive from Las Vegas.  Any of you guys that are meeting for Pizza or staying overnight somewhere have any thoughts where us guys arriving at 4 a.m. in the morning can meet up?  I'm leaving approx 7 to 8 pm from Las Vegas putting me there around 4 am or so.  Long drive, but it will be a drive with some good company, and I can't wait to meet all of you other "good company" out there all day long. -Mark Hripko

10
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Insurance in Ontario
« on: November 18, 2015, 10:57:01 AM »
Las Vegas NV, USA. Progressive Motorcycle Ins for 2014 DS 11.4 = $430.00 max coverage, no deduct, and 2 year 100% new value replacement guarantee. 1 driver, 100%, 25+ years mc driving exp.  Just for comparison. -M

11
Anybody got any information about a person with a pacemaker or an in-chest defibrillator (or one of the combo units) as it relates to riding a zero (like a 2014 ds).  Is there any official position on this, or does anyone have any info (informal, official) about the potential interference.  I've never heard anyone discuss how much emf or what kind or energy surrounds an electric bike.  Should someone considering a motorcycle when they have an icd/pacemaker be worried riding a Zero any more then say the cautionary warnings of holding a cell phone up near that side of their chest where an icd might be implanted...

12
Curious to hear anyones take on why in this day and age of alloy wheels, anyone would want spoked wheels on their motorcycle.  I have spoked wheels on my 2014 DS, but i would trade them in a heartbeat if someone wanted to, especially ZERO.  I'm secretly hoping they will trade them for the 2014 alloy wheels the other bikes all came with, or the 2015 alloy wheels on the 2015 DS.  Both my front and back wheel seem out of round with these spoked wheels, and i would bet the alloy ones never do.

Is there any practical or even logical reason why all other zero 2014 bikes had alloy rims and the 2014 had these spoked wheels?

Can I put a tubeless tire on those spoked rims, or is that yet another reason i dislike the spoked wheel.  Other then looking good for the first few days, why in the world would anyone want spoked wheels/rims?

13
I think the noise seems to be coming from the axle or bearing around it.  It's not the rear brakes as I once elevated the bike on a stand and made sure i could see tha tthe brakes pads were not doing it.   Tomorrow morning I'm pulling the wheel off and taking the whole assembly down to one of the motorcycletire places I've got some recommendations on and i'll have them check it out and get it fixed.  I'll see if they can check the axle/bearing or whatever is making that noise at that time.... -MARK

14
My 2014 DS has been a dream and a blast for the past 13 months and 6500 miles all problem free.  Then, last week the 12 volt stuff all was out (in another post-fixed by replacing 4A fuse in back of battery box) and today, I ride home from work and find that I'm riding on a flat rear tire.  First of all, it's amazing how you almost cannot tell it's flat-it seems to roll smooth and everything stays tight. But now I hae the dilemma: with my ZERO dealer 300 miles away, what is the best way to fix it?  I have worked on cars and bikes before and "could" remove the spoked rear wheel and it's tube based tire, but should I?  If it rides 4 miles from work to home on a flat (I'm not sure but may have done that far) should I just ride another 2 miles to a local off-road dealer who knows how to change a tire, or drive or ride it 5 miles over to Carter Powersports - who USED TO BE the Las Vegas dealer a few years back but no longer is a zero dealer.  It the tire removal easy (removal from bike is really the question, getting off brakes, belt, and swingarm...  At 6500 miles, should i be replacing brakes or belt as long as it's apart?  Even more importantly - when it comes to replacing the tire and the tube on the read of the 2014 DS, (besides wishing i had alloy rims instead of spokes) can i go tubeless, or do the spoked rims make that not a good idea.  Would you change tire brands - knowing i want the same size/width/ everything as the original tire on the bike.  Or can I just fill the tire with fix-a-flat and with enough goo and time, it will plug the leak for another couple opf weeks until i can take it to my dealer, 300 miles away?

Curious to hear others thoughts on all of this.  I don't want any discussion of switching tire sizes or stuff like that, I want to fix my existing flat the way that makes the most sense (the tire itself seems in good shape minues the area wherre i removed the razor blade shaped device the size of a small fingernail that sliced into it.)  I don't want  change the ture unless i need to if i only need to change the tube... unless it's matched set kinda thing where i should do them both.

The only good i can see coming of this is that I can finally see if i can figure out why the rear axle/tire seems to squeek/squeal like it could use some bearing grease, even though it seems like it's got that and occasionally rolls extra silently...

MARK (ZeroMark)

15
Final Resolution: After squeezing 12 volt 5-wire connector (Thanks Jason S for the picture that helped me find it) and then checkng the 250V 4A fuse of the 2 fuses that stick out of the battery box at the back of the box, I found that the fuse was blown.  It was originally tested when I first started troubleshooting, but I didn't test it, someone else did.  Funny, it was the type of fuse that had what looks like brown paper bag material on the inside of the glass, all the way around it, so it's impossible to see any wire or link in there.  Only after pulling it out of the little top piece that you push on to screw the fuse in, and measure it with an ohmmeter, was I sure it was open.  So i went to auto parts store and bought another 250V 4A fuse and put it in and it's been working fine every since.

I do think that the connector (the 5 pin 12 v one mentioned in this post) should either be raised, or waterproofed.  I live in Las Vegas, and while it's normally dry, hot, and dusty, we just had the craziest few months this year of rain, and what little rain we had, came down hard when it did, creating floods and puddles everywhere.  In all of that time, I managed to stay out of all of them and only 1 time can i say i was in water more an inch or so deep.  But that cover over the 5 pin connector lookdd moist as you all mentioned, and it's by far the lowest connector in that center group opf wires, and closest to the top of the motor.  It just seems like that whole area above the moter ought to be enclosed better it all of tbhe electirical stuff is up there.

But I'm happy it's fixed now, as I was just getting ready to drive it 300+ miles to where my NEAREST (sadly) zero dealership is at.  Still hard to believe there is NO (longer) a ZERO dealer here in the Las Vegas area.

-Thanks to all for the help.  I only hope i can repay you with my ZERO knowledge some day)
-MARK
ZeroMark

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