ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

FYI: I got one, and there are a couple more listed, all below $200.

They are on eBay for $250

Where? There are literally none listed right now. I do see if I go back to the item at the top of the thread that plenty of people bought 3 of them, so I figure someone might have a spare.

As I said I purchased a bike in 2014 and successfully amended my 2014 return. They inspected it carefully as I had to refile with additional paperwork. The paperwork does not indicate any exclusion period.

2011 XU: put some miles on it. Needed a MBB, BMS, throttle ... then they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Zero is in the process of making things right.
2014 SR: bought it new, love it. Plan to keep it forever. Getting luggage and quick charge capability set up so I can 'tour' with it. Right now the steering lock is broken (just stopped working one day) and it was delivered with a torn up grip (has never been made right but I know it's cheap to fix). Otherwise it's been good. The power is addictive. I can't wait for the stock tires to be done so I can put better tires on it.

It certainly doesn't indicate an overall pattern of behavior on Zero's part.

I bought a 2011 XU that was NOS. I liked it so much that I bought a 2014 SR as soon as it was available. Then the XU developed a no drive problem. Even though I had two-year warranty paperwork, Zero gave me a huge fight over doing a parts warranty, indicated they would pay for it, then said it was damage to the throttle which was causing the problem. I replaced the throttle on my nickel. A few miles later, the bike was dead again. Zero did step up to fix it - so far, they've replaced the MBB and gone through the wiring harness. It's been six months. The bike is still dead. They say they are out of ideas. I'm left with a bike I can't sell, and that they won't take as trade in since I've already bought a 2014.

Am I upset? Yes. Have I stopped talking up Zero to my friends? Yes. Am I slagging them off? No. But at this point I've basically written off the price of the XU even though it's barely four years old, and was sold just two and a half years ago. It's the truth about being on the cutting edge: sometimes you bleed, sometimes for thousands of dollars. I don't expect to ever get a cent that I spent on this bike back. That really ruins the math on cost per mile.

Zero still has the opportunity to step up and do the right thing. Right now they're not even returning my phone calls or emails. Getting the letter in the middle of this process was an absolutely offensive action. The next move is theirs. I feel badly for the dealer, who has been really nice to work with and now has this bike taking up space in their shop for 6+ months, absolutely useless to them and to me.

(this is, by the way, ignoring the problem with the 2014 that I'm going to just live with now that it's out of labor warranty: the steering lock broke. I'm not going to pay to fix it even though the parts are covered, because I don't trust them to not break something else in the meanwhile or find some way to charge me for it)

Quote from: Doug S on July 12, 2014, 12:42:48 AM

You may not have looked while you had the headlight off, but did you see if it would be possible to drill another hole in the flange, or otherwise make the fork lock work on the right side as well? I remember the fork lock on my previous bikes were just a pin that went through a hole in a flange to lock the fork in place.

I don't remember a pin and I might be completely wrong but I don't think it could be modified to lock on the right side without some serious metal work.  Here's a picture showing where the lock was refusing to extend past the ridge when cranked to the left.

Thread officially hijacked.

Since it's already hijacked - the picture isn't working. My fork lock stopped engaging the other day and I haven't had a chance to look at it - the dealer is far enough away that I'd like to fix this myself if possible. It feels jammed. Is removing the headlight simple enough?

Perhaps this is a question best asked to Zero directly, but I'm curious if anyone knows the dimensions of the Power Tank battery? I'm hoping it's close enough to dimensions of one of the available quick charge options (even with DIY) that one could get the Power Tank bodywork and install a set of quick chargers in the place of it, with a J1772 adapter.

There should be no reason to wait for warm up at all, and no worries about break in. All of the things that make an internal combustion bike need to warm up just don't exist on an electric. However if you are riding very aggressively you do still need to warm up the shocks and tires.