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Messages - C. Dolan

Pages: [1] 2
1
Brammo Forum / Re: 2014 Brammo Empulse RR race bike reviewed
« on: August 22, 2014, 08:29:08 AM »
Depends on the motor. You can have a low-RPM high-voltage motor or a high-RPM low-voltage motor (think a battery-operated dremel).

Ex 1: AFM-140 is a 167 kW 40 kg motor that revs to 5000 RPM at 600+ VDC.
http://www.evo-electric.com/inc/files/AFM-140-Spec-Sheet-V1.1.pdf

Ex 2: Zero's 75-7 motor (50 kW 18 kg/40 lbs) revs to 7000 RPM at ~110 VDC. Zero's motor is a bigger motor than the Brammo Empulse's 16 kg/35 lbs motor, so perhaps it is not surprising that it makes more peak power with the same battery voltage and controller.

A gearbox/motor combination DOES have exactly this tradeoff vs direct-drive: for a fixed weight/packaging budget, you are giving up a larger motor in order to use a transmission. Brammo's gearbox weighs in at 11 kg/25 lbs, so the combination motor/gearbox is 27 kg/60 lbs or 9 kg/20 lbs more than Zero's 75-7 motor.

Now look at basic performance specs:

2014 Zero SR ZF14.2 is 452 pounds, 3.9s 0-60 (spec claim), 102 mph vmax (peak). Gearing is 30/132.

2013 Brammo Empulse R is 470 pounds, 4.8s 0-60 (as tested), 107 mph vmax (continuous).

Now run the Zero with 25/98 gearing. 0-60 time increases to 4.4s, gearing-limited vmax increases to 114 mph.

Granted we're looking at tested 0-60 acceleration vs claimed 0-60 acceleration, but it'll have to do until we get a true head-to-head comparison. With that said, it looks like a 40 pound direct-drive setup can offer both better acceleration and higher top speed than a 60 pound motor/gearbox setup.

Zero's passive cooling setup, even on the SR, is substantially weaker than the Empulse, and accordingly its sustained top speed is significantly lower. But presumably this could be solved with a well-sized liquid-cooling setup.

The other thing worth mentioning - and I recall Brian earlier citing this as a reason for selecting a gearbox - is that for a given power requirement, motor efficiency will typically improve when the motor is placed in its sweet spot rather than when operated at the RPM dictated by vehicle velocity.

As an example, look at the AFM-140 motor efficiency map.



At 5000 RPM and maximum continuous torque output (140 Nm), it is producing 73 kW at 92% efficiency. If the motor had a gearbox, then the same 73 kW power output could be instead produced at 3500 RPM / 200 Nm torque, which is 94.5% efficient. I guess the overwhelming majority of the efficiency loss is heat produced in the motor, so heat production at this output level would be reduced by around 30%.

The gearbox won't be 100% efficient, so it's likely that battery power draw would be similar between the two setups and heat would effectively "move" from the motor to the gearbox.

Interesting, but I would have rather seen the numbers done with a Zero SR 11.4, which is a more common and 40 Lb lighter version.

The Zero SR 14.2 is with the so-called Power Tank ( 40 Lb more battery added. )

My 11.4 comes in at 417 Lbs with the changes I made to the suspension and wheels.

I may be getting a deal on an Empulse R in the near future.

Stay tuned.  8)


2
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: 2015 Zeros
« on: August 11, 2014, 11:41:44 AM »
Real front fork, real rear shock ? Not a low end taiwanese-chinese ones. You can even get some better quality suspensions in taiwan (like DNM) !!!

I turned my front disk dark blue in about 50 miles of "spirited riding" on Palomar Mountain.

Modded wheels and front end.

Still looking for a rear shock upgrade that will fit.


3
Updated pic with different Ohlins front end, wire wheel using Ducati Paul Smart hub, Buchannan rim, and radial Brembo brakes.


4
RE: RF, Shielding, Noise, etc. :
My SR # 666 had a recall where something called " ferrites " ( sp ? ) were installed by the dealer.

RE: Charge Indicator:
Mine sometimes gets "stuck" at a random % number, no matter how long charged.
Disconnecting the charger and turning the key on and off seems to get it to show 100 %,
if charged to that point.

There is also a sustained run test done to see if motor holds together.
Recall letter mentions bikes made prior to March 2014.
Mine, being late Feb, was done by distributor before shipping to dealer.

 

5
62 / San Diego, Ca. / 2014 Zero SR / Vin: 000666


6
More  pics.

May run bike at Palomar this weekend.







7
Seeing the 160 tire on the 4.25 rim for the 1st time today, will go to a 150.

It was just touching the belt and the sides were too steep to be fully used.

I had originally chose the 160 tire / 4.25 " rim based on going from a 140 / 3.5 " combo.

I think earlier versions of the S model may have run 130 tires.

The 150 tire / 4.25 " rim will clear the belt and give the side angle I'm looking for.

Will post tire / wheel on bike pics this coming week.

8
Finally got the spokes made to lace the fat rear rim.

Since I had to go to new spokes, I went with 8 gauge instead of the OEM 9 gauge.

Because of the almost straight spokes and only 32 of, was the easiest wheel I had ever laced and trued.

Most of the time was just screwing on nipples evenly and ball park torque.

The wobble was so slight, that it could have been ridden as - is.

The actual truing and tightening only took a few minutes and had under .005 inch TIR.

Close enough for a wire wheel., I quit while I was ahead.


9
May 5, 2014: A few more parts added :


10
I think the difference in range will be minimal.

The dual disks in the front are full floaters, so drag while not in use may be the same or less than

the OEM single disk setup.

 Could run higher tire pressure if concerned about rolling resistance, and drop to 30 psi when railing.

11
Skunk Werkz portion of the garage occupies about 15 % or about 1/6th of the total area.


12
On the other side of the room , a Ducati 999 s Ohlins front end set up to center and make spacers

for front wheel and check caliper and disk spacing / centering.

Big Meat rear rim waiting for spokes and 160 rear tire will be mounted.


13
After a month gone by, still can't find a 9 gauge spoke threader.

Finally , went and ordered a set of spokes made from Buchanan and went 8 Gauge.

In the meantime, got most of the front end stuff done.

The most time consuming part was making all the mounts and tabs to use OEM lights and

instruments on a complete Ohlins  front end.

Parts came from my garage stash and Ebay.

In one area, the trees fitted to bike, with tabs and fork stops fabricated .

Top clamp was 1 inch thick and flat.

ZR top clamp has 1 inch drop.

This was compensated for by welding another pair of end clamps cut from another tree.

Lower clamp re-machined to take OEM steering stem.



14
Just got my letter, today.

Seems strange in that they had already swapped or did something just before I got the bike last month.

Last 3 of my VIN is 666 . .......... Makes one wonder.  ::)

15
Interesting in that there was a delay on the SR I bought last month.
At first they said they were swapping the motor, but may have got another bike to ship.
This apparent when a different VIN was on the paperwork and had to change the VIN
given to my insurance guy.
Has Manf. February on the neck decal.
Have run my motor to 300+ Deg, so far.

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