ElectricMotorcycleForum.com

Hello,

I am listing for sale my 2013 Zero S 11.4. It is yellow with 5256.1 miles on it by me the original owner. It is under warranty until April of 2015. It has a windshield added and also the Givi top rack cargo container: both of these are seen on the Zero Motorcycles website. It has new tires in last spring - I did not like the stock tires and Avon AM26 is the make of the new tires. It has run flawlessly since I bought it new and has had the firmware upgrade.

I am selling this bike because it worked well for me as a commuter bike in the Seattle area and I have relocated to Pennsylvania for work. Now I have a short commute to work and usually need to have 4 wheels under me for my job. So it does not make sense for me to keep this bike when I am no longer going to ride it very often.

I am really trying to gauge interest and of course find a buyer. I and the motorcycle are in the Reading, PA area. Delivery by me is a possibility within a limited range. I have a ramp on my truck and can haul it in the bed to a reasonable distance location. We can talk about that.

Asking $10,650.00 USD for stock bike plus the aforementioned accessories and of course the tires are newer.

Feel free to ask questions. I will post pictures.

Best regards,

SK

I'd like to install one of these wireless transmitters onto my 2013 Zero S, which will work with the red light on the back of my helmet and synchronize this light with the operation of the brake lights. Any advice on where I may want to tap into the brake light wiring and mount this puppy?   

http://www.amazon.com/G-Max-LED-Wireless-Brake-Light/dp/B0050IRQHC

Just wondering whether anyone here has made the increase torque conversion to the 2013 Zero S yet?   

I tried to order these several months ago and they were on hold due to a problem with the rack kit rubbing the tire or something like that. Zero has commented that the new design is approved and the parts are on order with their supplier so the rack kit should be definitely available some time in the future.

From Zero Rep:
"Yes that is correct, sorry for the delay. I confirmed with engineering and aftersales that the new design has been approved and the parts are on order. We should receive these items in and dispatch them to all backordered customers. Thanks again for your patience, the design change needed to be validated, tested and sent to the manufacture to start building the replacements and it has been time intensive."

SK

44, Everett Wa, 2013 S 11.4.   

Zero also sells a rear sprocket replacement that does just the opposite, trading in some torque for a higher top speed.

I managed to check and set the sag for my 260 lbs human body to Zero's recommended ~2 inches -- on my own for my 2013 Zero S. As you may have read that the rear shock is factory set for a 180 lbs person.  I had to DIY it, so I came up with this method.

Parts required:

1 18 inch expanding curtain rod from Lowes (like 2 dollars)
1 wire twist-tie.
3 inches of velcro strap.>>vlecro'd the top of the curtain rod to the left turn signal, it tops out touching the fender. You could clamp this to the fender as well. Just make sure that it is fully extended after removing your weight when measuring, if it is only velcro'd to the turn signal.
1 clamp. >> clamped the other end of the rod to the underside of the frame on the left side directly beneath the left turn signal. Pad with a cloth so as to not harm the frames finish.
one ink pen.
gloves and spanner wrench.
tape measure.

I used a mallet and a center punch to gently tap loose the locking ring above the rear spring adjuster since my spanner wrench could not quite do it.

See Photo: It is like the curtain rod was designed for this. It really works well. Make your first mark, while lifting up on the back end, with the ink pen at the intersection where the upper rod enters the lower half of the rod.  Place the twist-tie so that it gets moved when the curtain rod collapses under your weight and then stays with the upper rod when it expands again. Where it ends up is your second mark. Measure the difference between the twist tie and the line, adjust the rear spring and then measure again.

This would have worked better for the first mark if I had a stand to put the bike upon. And that is zero's recommendation. So this method is going to be less precise because I did not quite lift it off of the ground. I am sure I got it to as far as it was going  to extend though by lifting the back end up and placing the first mark. That was the hardest part.

I got it set to 2 inches, per the manual, using this method and now I am going to test ride. Will fine tune from there. Cheers.      [I used to watch MacGyver a lot.]