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Messages - sendler

Pages: [1] 2
1
That kind of fairing is more cosmetic than aerodynamically beneficial.
All my bikes have a sport touring type of fairing. Ninja250 with the sport touring windshield, Ninja 650, The R3 will get a bigger sport touring windshield. My CBR250R with the bigger windshield as pictured above, PCX150, Yamaha Majesty. The benefits are many and various. I would never go back to riding a naked bike.
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Do you have a bike with a fairing?

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My trunk with the lid open. You can see the line I drew in the dust diagonally down the side which shows the extent of the lower storage.
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Nice design, how much was your improvement?
I only gained about 8%. But at least I didn't lose any efficiency and now I have big locking storage.

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I didn't really show any step by step on the build. It is marine ply for the horizontal spine and the front and the back and aluminum trim coil for the skin. The one crafty trick I came up with that really helps is that the seam for the opening of the clam shell was made with a reciprocating saw after the wood was glued together so that it fits perfectly water tight with a thin gasket even though the cut might wander a bit.
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I'm already itching to do a better tail that is glass over a mould so I can use complex curves which would be much more aero.

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Just to give you an idea, this is where I'm at with my CBR250R.
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Too bad the Diginow chargers are $3,000. How often will you find a charging station out on the road that is capable of more than 6kW to really use that much charger. There might be a good market for a home built  4kW charger using two of these MeanWell's for bulk plus the onboard charger for the finish charging for a total of 5kW. Parts would be $900 including the J1772 cord.
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http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/RCP-2000-48.shtml
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7
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: 2015 SR Demo with Multiple Errors
« on: April 13, 2016, 04:54:20 AM »
 You don't have to hunt around for a different dealer. What dealer sold you the bike? Just call them up and tell them you want your money back. Why should you have to take a bath to try to sell the defective bike they gave you.

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Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: 2015 SR Demo with Multiple Errors
« on: April 13, 2016, 01:20:57 AM »
This doesn't seem to be a lemon law type of situation. 
There are plain and simple buyer's remorse laws that allow you to return any new motor vehicle within 30 days even if there is nothing wrong with it. If there is a fault any time within warranty, the dealer has three tries or 30 days to fix it or it is also eligible for a return. Coupled with the apparent fact that the dealer/ manufacturer knowingly and repeatedly cleared fault codes and then delivered the bike anyway, this would be a slam dunk for a full refund.

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Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: 2015 SR Demo with Multiple Errors
« on: April 12, 2016, 08:45:15 PM »
  I'm currently in the last stages of negotiating to sell the SR, taking a Vectrix (a bike I previously thought of as too unreliable) in trade.
Isn't there lemon law where you are? Did you buy this from an authorized Zero dealer? Tell them you want your money back or you will take them to court.

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Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: April sales incentive
« on: April 12, 2016, 05:45:25 AM »
It still applies if you custom order in April doesn't it?

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It would be nice if Zero could offer a faired version like the BMW F800GT.
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Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Saddlebags and other storage
« on: April 08, 2016, 03:43:55 PM »
I use a diy plank syle luggage solution in a couple different sizes for all of my bikes since it is the most aero and I'm cheap. Bolts to the seat and actually improves energy consumption slightly.
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The vent would relate to Craig's observation of poor cross wind handling when he closed off one side of his streamliner. Leaving it open so that the lift pressure differential from side winds could vent across his lap from one side to the other was better.
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The spoiler can be one line as in the photo but there are also alternative flow lines which could diverge two spoiler strips to clear the headlight and windscreen. Look at any motorcycle's wind screen after it has been riding at speed in the rain and you will see the muddy traces start out moving straight up vertically from the stagnation point and then begin to arc out more to the sides at the top of the wind screen which would make the shape of a "V" or "Y".

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A vent would be any open space that allows air to move across from one side of  the bike to the other. Ideally it  would be located at the position of the maximum thickness of the airfoil where the max pressure differential and lift during side winds would occur. Between the hands and the chin, across the lap,  with vents cut into the nose just in front of the battery or radiator, ect. The amount of air gust that I feel ripping across my lap when I ride my PCX (which has a nice, aero nose) in windy weather is astonishing. It makes me think that an area of up to 2 square feet might be required to really make a difference in venting away the lift (side) of a streamliner.
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Here is a diagram showing how side winds combine with the headwind of a fast moving streamliner.
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And this is how a spoiler can break the attached flow to diminish lift when the streamliner is attacked from an angle while being generally invisible to drag when no side wind is present. The ribs could be out of the way of the headlight and windshield yet still be following flow lines as they diverge toward the top corners of the windscreen. Experiments could be done by gluing tubing into place.
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However this force acts on the side area and if the centre of pressure is behind the centre of gravity then the vehicle starts to behave like a weather vane and turns towards the high pressure side.
Very common misconception among many people that should know better.  Trying to yaw the bike around a pivot point of the rear wheel with a long tail like a dart  causes the front steering geometry to  react with gyro precession and translation of the force through the trail to counter steer the tire patch toward the wind which leans and corners the bike with the wind any time the front tire still has traction. The only time a long tail really helps the bike stay straight would be in a high speed/ low traction situation like when running on salt. As Terry has stated above that the truncated tail was a little easier to handle in the wind than the full tail. He has tried it off and on both ways so should know.
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The problem with creating an airfoil shape with full attachment of flow is that you have created an efficient vertical wing that creates lift (side) when side winds shift the apparent vector of the oncoming air stream to give it an angle of attack. This will occur with or without a tail but will be more pronounced the more perfect the airfoil with a tail.
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 Craig found out that venting the the pressure differential across his lap was a big help when he tried closing in one side side of his bike and immediately took the door back off because cross wind performance was worse. I also see that modern faired world bikes such as the CBR250R and R3 have obviously drawn on their companies design experience by incorporating a scoop like shape in the sides windshield/ dash area to vent pressure across the bike. And a second technique which is the implimentation of spoilers via the sharp protrusions at either side of the headlight to spoil the attachment and kill the lift (side) whenever there is a cross wind.
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So here are some recommendations that have come from 5 years of heated debates with some really good engineer types on Ecomodder.com for an aero motorcycle that doesn't get too unruly in cross winds.
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Obviously we would want the most efficient pure airfoil shape draped over the top view of the bike and rider with a concession to an acceptable rear overhang via Kamm truncation at the upper to fit a license plate, tapering down to a more efficient J form behind the wheel at the bottom. There is no stability advantage to a full length tail and it makes the bike difficult to park although a complete pure form all the way to the back is more efficient.
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The side view should also fit the template as posted on Ecomodder with minimal front overhang, as low to the ground as possible while retaining reasonable ground clearance with the exit sweeping up at the template angle to clear driveways.
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Height is the real problem that gives side winds leverage to lean the bike over the wrong way so a low seat height and low over all height is a target. At which point you see most designs must choose head forward or feet forward. Sit up and beg riding positions are the worst for cross winds since the wind can push on a higher area of the rider and their upper body is not anchored to the bike so they get blown over by the wind and the bike follows their lean.
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Design an effective vent across the rider's hands and in front of the battery.
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Add a curved "Y" spoiler rib starting at the stagnation point of the nose and curving up to either side of the wind screen. Effective tests have been done on other dust bin set ups with some 2 inch rope.

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