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I had similar issues with my 2014 S charger. It did suddenly stop charging to 96%. It started taking 24hrs to charge from 27% to 75%. I attempted to have it repaired but the issue was somewhat intermittent and did not show up when the shop tested it. I recommend that you collect the MBB event logs associated with charging times before you bring it in for repair. Also, make sure that you have ready details of the voltage at the outlet that you use to charge the bike. Once Zero agreed that the charger was bad, I waited until the charger was physically at the shop and it only took them a few hours to replace it. I haven't seen the issue since the charger was replaced several years ago.

My 2014s used to allow riding down to 8% before switching to 0% but it has gotten progressively worse over the past 6 months. Now, at 19% it cuts the torque way back and at 17% it switches to 0%. The cells are closely balanced; so I am not sure what has caused the degradation. For now, I use 20% displayed to mean 0% charge remaining.

I have been replacing my bearings with inexpensive 6904s (I am assuming low quality). I just decided to put new ones in every time I change a tire since they are very easy to replace. After I install the new ones, I order 5 more so that I always have a replacement set on hand. Basically, I replace the bearings every 12,000 mi. Since I have been following this process, I have not had any failures.

I have put over 40k fun commuter miles on my 2012 but I have had to depend on a backup vehicle. When things go wrong, you are at the mercy of Zero getting out the needed parts. The very best is a week. I actually got a part once in a week and the dealer and I had a good laugh of excitement. My main problem with upgrading to a 2015 is that I don't think that Zero has addressed what I believe causes most of my issues and that is water encroachment into the electronics. The BMS is now totally encased in a water proof material but it still fails if water seeps in elsewhere. Making it work may depend on where you live. I live in Florida where it rains often; so staying out of the rain is not really an option for me.

My batteries started degrading at 20k.  At  22k range dropped to less than half of nomal. Zero replaced the pack under warranty. Since then, I have had no issues.

I don't know why. Controller thermal cycles feels like the best explanation to me; glitches don't seem to be strongly linked to ambient temperature, high acceleration, high speed, etc.

With my glitch, I think that it is very temperature dependent. If I attempt to use the bike in the middle of a +90F day, it almost never starts immediately. It can take over 50 recycles before it will move more than a few feet. On a normal morning in central Florida, the bike fails at 2-2.5 miles. In the evening when it is warmer, the bike fails at 1mile and if I sit in traffic soon after the glitch it can fail again. I think that it cools back down when I sit in traffic too long.
To me it seems that there is a temperature band that the bike is likely to fail in. Once I make it beyond this temperature band, the bike does not glitch for the rest of a ride.

My glitch started at 6k miles and has failed consistently over the past 1k miles. One thing that I did that makes it a bit more bearable is to wire the Sevcon logic power through the eco/sport switch. I connected J5 pin 1 and J17 pin 1 through the switch (see diagram and spreadsheet).  This allows the motor controller power to be removed without rebooting the entire bike. Now, the reset takes much less time and leaves the lights on while I am working the switch. I traced some of the wire harness and documented it in the attached spreadsheet.