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Thanks for all the info.
It's really helping.
Any idea if there are also CAN lines in this connector?
No Arduino needed but you'll still need an USB to TTL converter which is the part used to program smaller Arduino boards hence the Arduino IDE.
That and an OBDII connector is really all you need. In below video I'm gutting a cheap Bluetooth OBD adapter to put such an USB to TTL converter in place instead and than in the end I read out from console. Video is in a different language but just visually it might help to get an idea.
https://youtu.be/JqUwTeAqi3o?t=159
On software side you could also try the arduino IDE which is free and has a serial monitor build in. A bit of a workaround but easier since you just need to pick the right device from a list.
That's damn impressive, essentially building your own Alta equivalent, and running your own dyno, the Arduino stuff, etc.Thank you for the kind words.
When it's done I'd like to see a complete tour of the bike and your maiden voyage in the dirt!
(Tell your wife I said it was worth waking her up for this)
I was talking about the S/DS btw, they sell a 14.4 model as well as the 7.2 here in Europe. Same motor and controller but different power outputs. Zero say it's a 550A controller so in theory there's more to give even with the smaller battery.
When you say current cutbacks is that some sort of active protection in the battery pack? I'm not all that knowledgeable on this stuff, I just pick up things mostly from what I've read on here and haven't heard that before.
7.2kW/h? Cool to see that it's capable of that sort of power without blowing up. Zero limits the 7.2 bikes to about 44hp and you need to step up to a 14.4 to get 59hp.Dope, both the bike and the dyno. Looks like a blast to ride. What's the battery and controller, stock Zero and just reprogrammed? What's the reasoning for the jackshaft?
Its more or less a 2018 Zero SR motor and controller. The battery is a newer longbrick (FX battery or 1/2 a monolith)
The Jackshaft is for 2 reasons. #1 is to run realistic gearing. I have 3 CRF sprockets and 1 industrial sprocket machined to accept the 520 chain.
So I wanted to gear down as far as I could with OEM gears. This is also nice to I don't have a HUGE rear sprocket to hit rocks and add unspring weight to the rear wheel its also a sprocket I can get at any motorcycle supply store.
The second reason is because you can't slide the motor back far enough to put the motor sprocket in a good place to keep the chain from whipping around. OEM ICE MX bikes run the sprocket as close to the swing arm pivot as they can to prevent it from changing its slack to much as the rear suspension travels.
I didn't look too closely so it looked like the jackshaft had the same sprocket size on each end. Is it something you made from scratch or was it made from the stock engine? I notice it goes between the swingarm like I've seen some dirtbike engines do. What is the final gear ratio?
Dope, both the bike and the dyno. Looks like a blast to ride. What's the battery and controller, stock Zero and just reprogrammed? What's the reasoning for the jackshaft?
