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There is indeed an additional function of the SET button. If you are in CC mode you can still accelerate using the throttle. If you press the SET button for about 2-3 seconds while on this higher speed, the CC will adjust the setpoint accordingly.
Honestly, I was not aware of this function up to today
Actually, I think the Ribelle is the easiest bike I've ever had to pick up, including my old 125.
Check the rearsets and rotors on the Hooligan Bike.
I leave mine on max all the time, I keep hearing it's more efficient to turn it off for cruising but you can just hold the throttle neutral and if that's annoying to you then just give your handlebars the reacharound so you can cruisecontrol it. I just don't understand what scenario you would possibly want *less* regen.
accept that shifting things to lift the seat and adjusting the load after charging is a bit of a nuisance.
Hello,
I plan on possibly making a regen lever for my Eva. In that case, the throttle signal will be run through a microcontroller first and be mixed with the regen lever, to create any output I want.
Even without the regen lever, it is of course possible to use a microcontroller in between the throttle and the bike to implement any mapping you want.
best regards
DerKrawallkeks
Yes it should work use a quadrilateral shift circuit followed by a flip/flop coupled to a Schmidt trigger on the output.
In heavy rains the control buttons (high beam etc) sometimes can do funky: dielectric grease works preventative.
For cold weather riding I like heated snowmobile gloves (either by the bike's battery or using rechargeable batteries in the gloves). There are also large over-mitts (which have been around since at least the mid-1960's) that fit over each bar that also work very well to keep your hands warm. The only issue with them (besides their looks) is that you will not be able to see the bar controls and need to operate them by feel. Plus, removing your hands from the mitts quickly can be difficult to do.
Sorry for the late answer due to the season holidays.
Ergal is another name for an aluminium alloy (A7075). In principle aluminium is quite easy to corrode which is why it's surface is often anodized. But this is only good as long as the surface is not harmed. Thus, my preference is stainless steel (type names V4A, A4, A316) or titanium (type names Ti-6AL-4V, Grade 5).
Unfortunately the fairing screws on our Energicas (4 mm I think for a 3 mm hexagon key) are zinc plated only, so they easily corrode, especially when in contact with brine from salted streets. So maybe consider exchanging them against high grade stainless steel (A4, V4A) or titanium. With titanium you even have colour options.
The Energica splash guard (approx. 100 USD) reduces the spray water from the rear tyre being thrown up and wetting your behind. Unfortunately it is only a reduction, so be still prepared that during long rides on wet streets, water will trickle down your neck.
Regularly check the rear swingarm if there is water inside, then the drain hole at the bottom is plugged by debris.
One or two people had problems with the left switch thingie on the handlebar (for indicator and menu) in which water accumulating, but that does not appear to be a serial issue.
You have heated grips on your Ribelle? I do. They are good for chilly weather (think south Italian winter) but not for real cold.
Heated gear I do not own (yet). I am layering against the cold using windproof stuff like Windstopper from Goretex I already own for winter cycling. The winter undergarments from Dainese are very expensive and they are only partially windproof (again think Italian winter
When riding on a sunny winter day with low standing sun, be aware that this can impair vision a lot. You might not see someone approaching or they might not see you against the glare! Nearly lost a buddy this year due to this.
