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Hum...

I've put my temperature sensor between 2 cells in the middle of the pack, 1 inch from the edge. I have not had issues with the temperature, even while running the bike with wide open throttle for extended time.

Each cardboard tube contains two cells (3.7 volts each) in series. The connector you circled is the connection between these two cells, for the BMS to interact with (to balance the cells individually).

56 volts is the nominal voltage of a fully charged system of 14S. If the cells are healthy, this is a fully charged battery pack. If the cells are damaged/old, the voltage will sag as soon as you draw some power from the pack. It's hard to tell from just a static voltage reading like this.

If you wanted to keep the bike as stock as possible, and it had a few problems, there is a lot of status information you can get from reading the status screen of the MBB, and this can help in troubleshooting the bike.

For example, the battery pack sends its status over a canbus network to the MBB, and you can see all the cells voltage as well as the total voltage from the status menu of the MBB. The MBB uses this to make sure the battery is ok before and while riding, and to inform the dash battery meter. Also, the MBB manages a lot of safety features, for the rider as well as the bike itself : current reading from the battery pack, current reading to the motor, temperature reading of the motor, starting the fan when required, precharging the controller capacitors for a few seconds before activating the main contactor so it doesn't arc and wear it... Also, there is a bunch of calibration that can be adjusted to modify how the throttle reacts, acceleration limits, current limits...

Going your way and just replacing everything is another way to go about it. A lot easier too.

It means that between 0 and 2% of 5 volts, it will consider this input as being 0. This is useful to keep a "dead" zone at closed throttle position.

No, I'm not sure. But it might have been 0-5 volts. I am sure it was not 1-4 volts though.

Are you able to talk to the controller with the Kelly config program while it is hooked up to the motor? I was not able to yesterday...

Hi richard230.
I have swapped out the old defective battery for a newer Nissan Leaf pack, following a recipe that's floating around on the forums. As far as I can tell, it's the exact same chemistry, voltage, number of cells in series, and just a bit less total AH.  Any other ideas?
Thanks!

Well, I tried to connect to the controller today and it did not work. I think I recall reading something about Kelly Controller that it won't connect to serial if the motor is hooked up to it.
In about two month, I will retire this bike for the winter and I also plan on enlarging the battery, so, I will disassemble it and try to connect to it then.
Sorry for the wait.

Ground.