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Down for me, HTTP ERROR 500 (generic).

BTW, https://downforeveryoneorjustme.com/ (Down for Everyone or Just Me) is great for checking on site status.

Not anything I especially went out and bought, except for a plastics polisher I used on the windshield, since what I had in the garage wasn't working as desired.

For getting the color and shine back on the plastics Meguiar's Ultimate Compound worked great, but it was the only product of its kind I had available. Hand applied with soft cloth. Goof off worked on the clear plastics to get the sticker residue off but I removed it quickly. It appeared to dull the black plastics, as did CLR. For the windshield I used Sumner Laboratories 210 Plastic Cleaner/Polish. At first it didn't appear to work well but effect was noticable after a few applications.

We'll see how everything holds up.

Hi all, I've read a few older posts on restoring the plastics on older model zeros. Seems the consensus was to buy new plastics or sand/paint the old ones. My two 2013 auction DS bikes had sticker and spray paint residue (plus dirt, grime, oil, scratches, etc.) on the commuter screens and plastics. Before I ordered new plastics (or sanded and painted) I figured I'd try some auto related cleaners/polishers I had in the garage to see if they'd damage the plastics more or have any benefit.

I attached a before and after photo of a section of black plastic I experimented on. Used a popular auto color restorer and buffed by hand, then wiped with a lint free cloth. Someone took a Dremel to my plastics to get the stickers off so there's likely no fixing that. I'll be testing some more aggressive cleaners/scratch removers and will update.

The commuter screens were pretty bad too. Both had sun damage and with stickers removed one could clearly see outlines that read POLICE. I broke one screen early on so I used the broken sections to test some fairly aggressive cleaners (like industrial strength goof off). I soaked the whole thing in warm water with dish soap and removed whatever residue I could. After drying and checking that the cleaners I tested didn't damage the screen, I used sticker remover solvent on the heavy stuff and a plastics polish/wax on the light stuff. I did 3 rounds of plastics cleaner/wax on the front and back of the screen. Took about 40 minutes.

It may not show well in the photos but even after I thoroughly cleaned the screen there were visible rings of scratches (there's a detailing term for this that escapes me). But after buffing/polishing a few times it looks near new.

I attached a photo.

Thanks to the zero unofficial manual, the information on this site, and a visit to the dealer (the awesome folks at Hollywood Electrics performed a BMS sync) I've got one of my two auction purchased DS police bikes on the road.

The bike looked like it had never been cleaned, had cut wiring throughout, and a supposed dead battery. I pulled the plastics, dropped the battery, belly pan, chargers, and pulled the harness. Deep cleaned everything and reassembled with new orange loom, zip ties, lots of heat shrink, new fuses, etc. Bike now charges to 100% (Vpack:115.919V). Rode her 50 miles and she did great. I've got a few mods to go (new zipper storage bag, additional lights, phone charger, etc) but looks like she's gonna be my daily vehicle this summer.

Looking good for a near 10 year old motorcycle that could have been headed to the scrap yard.

I live in the mountains (California) and out of curiosity I just looked up the two nearest charge stations to my home. One is 36.9 miles and the other is 38.3 miles. That's better than I expected. In comparison, the nearest gas is 30.3 miles.

Thanks Tev. I did read that post but good to read again. Everything looks different when you're at the point of actually having to get in and do the work. Not sure if there's a specific switch to use for the enable signal. I'll likely harvest the 4 meanwells and make something external I can use to charge either bike.

My apologies for asking so many questions the past weeks and much appreciation for the assistance received so far. I now have one of my 2013 DS police bikes up and running. Rode it to work yesterday and today and it's been awesome!

My 2nd bike (bought both at auction) has been more of a challenge. In troubleshooting, it's helping me learn a lot more about the motorcycles so I'm grateful for that. I think I've read everything I could about the Main Bike Board (MBB), and in summary it appears to be an expensive piece to replace, and requires dealer service when it fails. I've also read that dealers (and perhaps Zero) really don't want to be supporting and repairing older models, and prefer new bike sales and services. I understand and respect that.

That brings me here for answers to my many questions, in particular to, but perhaps not exclusive to, the MBB.

The bike (2013 DS Police) I'm diagnosing is a non runner. No lights, no power, no obd2 function, no response when keyed on, no charging. Pack voltage is in range (~103vdc) and BMS LEDs respond to hardware or software reset. I originally suspected a failed DCDC converter but I bench tested two and both were functional (but not when installed on the bike).

I have one simple (but potentially undesirable) way of determining whether the MBB has failed. I can temporarily swap one from my working bike (or vice versa). I believe to be functional the VIN has to be set, as well as mileage, and I'm unsure what else.

Would that be catastrophic to the MBB, BMS, or other in just plugging in? I'd like to see if error codes flashed to the KOSO display, if a charge light appeared when plugged in, etc.

I also see there are MBBs on the secondary market (same model numbers on them as on my bike). Could a dealer reprovision a used MBB?

I notice there is mileage on the KOSO display when applying an external DC source and it appears mileage is stored in both the display and the MBB, which is accurate?

Since this bike is a non consumer model, it does not interact with the bluetooth app, but it does respond to the zero spy app (limited to pack soc readings). Has me wondering if the bluetooth chip is on the BMS, the MBB or both?

When the MBB is plugged in, I can read enable voltage to the DCDC and the ignition, but they appear high (near pack voltage). I was expecting low or no voltage here unless the bike is keyed on.

I read 3.3v on the OBDII port (voltage from MBB) and I've noticed the ground (pin 5) on the OBD2 shares the same common path as all the 12v accessories (black wire - side). If the MBB and low voltage DC circuits share a common ground I could see a fault causing the entire bike to be unresponsive.

Where to go from here?

My concern is there were fuses on the 2013 battery for both the DCDC and MBB (along with the Low Power B+ fuse), now there are no fuses (for either the DCDC or MBB) on either the battery or the harness.

I may be over thinking it but I expected to find some sort of protection between the battery and those components.