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Messages - puregreen59

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Hi there, i have a 2017 zero sr, about a year ago i had some water ingress in one of the mbb connectors, it caused isolation faults and all sorts! when i finaly got to it, i had noticed it had corroded one of the pins and it actualy snapped on when i inspected it.

i have let it sit for a while, and recently decided to attempt fixing it, i ordered a new MBB, and plugged her in, she came to life, dash came on lights come on, i thought Weeyy it lives!! no error codes or anything but.. to my dissapointment when put the kill switch in the run and put the side stand up and twist the throttle, i get absolutely nothing, dosent move!! XD

now the kickstand is comfirmed to be broken, but before any of this i was aware of that, its failed in some sort of Always up mode?

cheaking logs dosent show anything either, unless im missing somthing its litterly completely happy with life, so happy it seems to be stuck in a "nah mate i dont actualy feel like moving" mode? XD

i was worried there was a break in one of the wires going to the mbb as if i moved it to much one way i would get error 61 on the dash untill i turned it off and on, but appon cheaking the logs i can actually see that my suspicion near the end was comfirmed that it would seem that code 61 actually means tip sensor was triggered.. So i took a deep breath feeling a little happier.

but thats about where im up to. i have a bike that is perfectly happy with everything but dosent actualy want to drive at the same time.

i can comfirm the contactor closes, and you get the green circle showing shes live and ready to drive, i can also comfirm when i roll forward of backword i get the white noise from the motor, (if this info helps?)

i can also comfirm that the throttle is fully functional, it got replaced once a few years ago when i dropped it and i have done the tests i did then to comfirm it as broken assming maybe the throttle went again even though i didnt drop it, but its perfectly fine, also the mbb/sevcon seems to be tottaly aware the throttle is there and functional as if i hold the throttle slightly on and flip killswitch to go, i get error 1 (high throttle fault) then if i let go it goes away, this is expected behaivour to stop you flying of when you didnt mean to, this helped me figure out i had a throttle fault when i replaced it years ago and led me to also see the sevcon was showing a flashing pattern light which with googling helped me figure out it was indeed the throttle, so i replaced it! anyway i digress.. getting a little of topic there.


so all i have to go on, is maybe the kickstand switch has failed more in some strange way that hasnt sent anything to be logged in the logs, but at the same time is stopping it from moving?

im at a complete loss for what to think to be honest! i dont want to keep throwing money at this bike if its not going to fix it you know?

any ideas would be extreamly welcomed!

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Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Wheel /belt alignment question
« on: May 02, 2022, 02:51:16 PM »
Thank you for your replys guys,

So I've noticed that what I thought was perfect alignment seems a bit strange, it looked perfect, like esokoloff mentioned, credit card gap between the outside rail bit.

had it on a centre jack, back wheel of the ground rotated it round and round to be sure torqued it up, found it moved slightly under tightening, so I adjusted for that torqued it up again, perfect! Back to credit card gap, double checked my work, round and round we go.

So feeling good about it, went for a ride, when I got to the end of a ride ilook down and find the belt to the far right (near the wheel) with a about millimetre just hanging off the sprocket.. Adjustment nuts where tight and axle was torqued down to 102 nm

Also if I hand run the belt just push from one side or the other to influence where the belt rides it will return to the correctly adjusted place I was expecting just seems to be under load, I'd expect it to go the other way under load near?

Forgive me if these are all obvious to most or stupid questions, I've had many chain drive motorcycles, but this is my first motorcycle that uses a belt final drive and I'm eager to learn the intricacies of belt drive in favour of a long belt life 😊

3
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Wheel /belt alignment question
« on: April 30, 2022, 11:19:49 PM »
Hi there I have a 2017 zero sr,

I did my belt adjustment and alignment today, Im having a hard time keeping the wheel aligned as well as the belt running in the correct place, where talking half a wheel alignment mark out from side to side. The belt is now aligned but I'm worried about the wheel alignment.

Is this normal?

Cheers

4
So first of I keep calling a bloody inverter, my bad! I mean dc - dc converter

So I found this,



Interestingly there is a 900w version however I'm not sure what connector the dc to dc converter uses, can anyone confirm? As the 450 is a almost direct swap after changing over some pins, the 900w one however has a different connector, or at least a similar connector but 2 extra pins in total, any ideas guys? Im not 100% sure as as all the pictures are low resolution and or labels are clearly not right, but prehaps there's 2 voltage output circuits?

5
If you move everything over to the 12v battery then you could use the 10A from the existing DC-DC converter to power a secondary 12v DC-DC converter to charge that battery, something like this:
https://simply12volt.co.uk/ctek-d250se-dual-dc-dc-battery-to-battery-charger-12v-20amp-2828-p.asp
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/votronic-12v12v-30a-battery-to-battery-charger-vcc-1212-30.html

Quite an expensive solution though and packaging may be an issue. If I was in that situation I would put the auxiliary lights on the lighting circuit, get rid of the horn, and then just avoid using all of the other things together. With a 40W charger you're phone shouldn't take long to charge to you can go without the heated gear for that short time and with some hand guards, thicker gloves, and an extra torso layer you can turn down the heat a bit assuming it's adjustable.

I don't want to to have the worry of having to having to do quick math while I'm riding trying to working out what I need to turn off or unplug so to not blow a fuse or inverter so prehaps either the dc to dc charger option or would it just be more efficient to change the inverter at this point?

I noticed both of the dc to dc chargers also draw quite a load, do you have any personal experience with either of these? Can the input be limited, Otherwise am I not gunna have a similar problem?

6
The horn and lights have their own 10A circuit. Adding that horn, you'd be over the limit on it.

As for the other accessories, you are over that 10A circuit as well with your 192W of usage from the heated gear, dash cam, and phone charger, which if all running at 100% = 16A.

Have you measured the draw on everything, or are these just the ratings of these devices?

I haven't measured,just going on on data from the Internet/ manuals, everything but the dash cam is ment to be power draw as gas as I know, couldn't find indonon dash cam, so just what it says on the power supply.

7
Complely forget heated grips.. 60w.. This is seaming more of a problem I need to find a solution to by the second.. 😅

8
So I'm a courier, I have a lot of accessories and I worry about the power draw on the inverter

I've recently bought a 2017 zero SR to replace my yamaha mt09 tracer, as a work bike.

I've actually been waiting some time for it! Over 5 months, it's quite the story to be honest so I'll save you the hassle and cut to the chase, its coming in 2 days! Woo!

So I have a heated jacket (around 82w on full)
Denali 2.0 D4 auxiliary lights (80w on high beam)
Fast charger for my mobile (40w)
Denali sound bomb (240w)
Inovv K2 dash cam (10w)

So total if I happen be using everything and hitting the horn is 452w, that's not even factoring in the bikes draw with headlight indicators and such, I mean the horn is rarely going to be used.

my question here is what happens if I'm in the scenario above and I happen to also need to break hard causing abs to kick in is something going to pop..? 😂 What are my options here.

I've seen there are other inverters but I'm a little confused on what would work and what wouldn't.

My other thought was the new zero sr s/f have 12v batterys, so this got me thinking, prehaps I could install a 12v battery so cover the load and have it connected somehow to the inverter to keep it charged, but how I would do this safety I wouldn't know.

I have a large box I'll be transferring from my bike to the zero so going this route I was thinking put a false floor in the box and I could house the 12v battery there.

Any ideas or tips are much appreciated

Cheers guys!

9
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Re: Welding question
« on: November 03, 2021, 06:02:10 PM »
Thank you for your replys guys, good idea with the nylon bolts, what a great tip! I think that will be my game play just to be on the safe side.

As for weight, the box it's self weights around 8kg let alone the the arms and hardware, then of course anything I put in there, to get a good idea, on my current fosil burning bike I can get a level large shopping trolley in there. So weight wise depending on what I carry I need it to be very robust.

As for getting the side racks and welding to them I was planning on just making it mount the the back of the pillion pegs and then a truss between the two

10
Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ / Welding question
« on: October 24, 2021, 07:06:32 PM »
Hey guys, this is my first post around here

I'm buying a 2017 zero sr, but I need to fabricate my own arms to hold a large delivery box,  so my question is the easiest way to make welding safe, I will need to be able to weld at least a few of the parts while attached to the bike, and I don't want to blow anything up, and dismantleing the entire bike to remove the sensitive equipment is kinda out of the question unless no other options remain, can anyone give me some pointers, cheers! 😁👍

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