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Pretty sure my 2016 Zero SR onboard charger just died. Whenever I plug it in according to my kill-a-wall meter, it only pulls 1500w for about 5-10 seconds before it goes down to 3 and the charging light turns solid. Also the dash will sometimes make that flashing effect seen here: https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=6034.msg45638#msg45638

Anyways, the obvious option is to order a new onboard charger from my dealer which will set me back at least a grand. However, I've been wanting faster charging for a while now and have been hearing about those diginow chargers. Only thing is that they aren't made anymore. At this point are there any current alternatives to the factory onboard belly pan charger other than the external "quick chargers" and the charge tank? I can't do a charge tank because my bike has the power tank option. Hope to hear y'all's opinions.

A while ago I made a post on this forum asking why my motorcycle was making a "rubbing" sound as it accelerated and I came to the conclusion that it was bad bearings in the motor. So here's my question: Is it okay if I keep riding on it regardless of the motor having bad bearings or should I be in a hurry to fix it?

Also from what I read, dealers will just replace the entire motor if it has a bad bearing. Is there anyone I can go to/send the motor to in the US that will just do a bearing replacement?

Everything on my dash displays normally except for my odometer being frozen! I haven't noticed it for a while until I realized it's been on the same number for ages now. Anyone had this issue before and/or know of a fix?

My 2016 Zero SR currently has a power tank, but the stock charger is starting to crap out (stops charging below 100%). So I've been looking to find a diginow charger and belly pan to replace the current charger. However, I don't know if it is possible to use a diginow charger with a power tank. I looked online to no avail. Anyone have an answer?

P.S. If anyone has a diginow charger and belly pan they want to sell to me, please let me know.

It sounds like your DCDC converter has failed. No lights, dash backlight, or turn signals would support that conclusion. Your bike should run without it, except the ABS system would be out. Replacing it is a pain on those bikes, it's practically in the middle of the bike.

That's what I suspected. And you're right about it being a pain to replace. I can barely even see it after pushing tons of cables out of the way. I'm trying to find a shop that will switch it out for a reasonable price other than the dealer that's nearby that charges very high labor rates. I live in southeastern Michigan if anybody knows of a good place within ~150 or so miles.

Silly me, I was using the frame of the bike as ground! I will check the continuity of the fuses and check back here.

I've heard of the entire 12v system failing on zero bikes. But I just hope the specifics of this scenario can narrow down the issue. That specific being the headlight briefly flashes then shuts off.

I don’t know enough to comment but I will say I’ve not heard of issues with wheel bearings but have heard of motor bearing issues.

The belt transmits power from the motor to the rear wheel & exerts its tension equity to both the motor & rear axle shafts.
I don’t know the specs of the motor bearing but I think that the axle bearings (3 of on my DSR) can handle more load then the motors & thus likely the motor bearings will suffer the most from excessive belt tension.

I’m wondering if the higher tension rating of the wider belt reflects the belts abilities & not the bearings. ??

Did the motor bearings change between models with narrow vs wide belt?

I know the type of motor changed a bit between Zero SR model years so I would assume the motor bearings did as well.

Are there any well-documented instances of replacing the bearings in a 2016 Zero SR motor? Like a how-to guide or something? I would assume it's quite a big process probably requiring a hydraulic press.