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It's been okay for a few days, but this afternoon it took six or seven tries. I've discovered that by turning the key back slightly, contact is made and I can use the bike, so that really points to dirty and/or failing contacts in the key switch.

Given I've had the bike for about five years and on average use it five days per week, the swich has only had around 2,600 contacts made, so pretty low for a switch. I've squirted some WD-40 type oil into the switch and exercised the switch back a few times, but with no apparent improvement. The trouble is that I don't know how the keyswitch is assembled, so squirting something down the key slot may never reach the contacts if it's sealed off.

I might have to prepare myself to replace the key switch assembly with removal as suggested by Aaron

I've noticed a few times this week when getting on my bike that it appears to be unresponsive to turning the key to the on position. Turning it off and back on again gets it going, but I don't want to live with it like that and the fear it'll get worse. Any suggestions of what to check/service?
The bike is used five days a week, so the fault is unlikely to be down to lack of use.

About 13 months ago my 2021 Zero S started showing error codes https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=12348.msg116608#msg116608, so it went back to the dealer for a new DC-DC converter, MBB and motor controller. This solved it for a few months before it went back again for a new loom, fortunately still under warranty.
More recently I have seen the same fault codes come back (0020 & 0028) after riding in heavier rain, but they seem to go away after a time, presumably after drying out. Has anyone else ended up just deciding to live with intermittent fault codes?

What I find odd is that I can have a 0020 error code on the dash, but no flashing red triangle until it is joined by the 0028 code, perhaps a software change by zero so as not to alarm the rider?

A quick update on this. My bike is still at the dealer and the fault has not been determined yet.
A couple of new motor controllers have been tried, along with a new MBB, but the fault still exists. Fortunately it's under warranty, but I'm still paying a lot more for my commute, in addition to the cost of getting the bike back to the dealer.

Perhaps they'll diagnose the same fault as mdjak1 and try the BMS next? 

I got the bike back to the dealer 16th Jan, who diagnosed it as being a motor controller fault, which seems strange as all the faults refered to the BMS. They have replaced the motor controller and the same fault codes are present, though if they disconnect the motor controller they go away again. Thought possibly to be a faulty on arrival motor controller, but the dealer is now raising it further up the support chain.
Seems like I'm not the only one having this type of issue.

While out on my bike yesterday I saw lights flashing on my dash, but it appeared to ride much the same. I had a look at the fault codes on the dash and they are;
0020 - BMS Low Isolation
0028 - BMS Isolation fault
0044 - Kill switch disable
0045 - Kickstand switch disable

I put the bike on charge this morning and it appears to be taking charge, e.g. relay/contacter clicking, power draw in houshold supply and %age charge increasing.

It may be wishful thinking but, is there an easy fix/reset for this or do I need to get the bike back to the dealer?

I've been reading this forum for the past few weeks since I put a deposit down on a new 'S', so I thought I'd reigster and show a couple of pictures.

I've been commuting about 30 miles per day with a Kawasaki Versys 300, but fancied a change to a full electric bike, though I've kept my Honda Deauville for longer journeys.

I'm waiting for the top box rack to come from Zero to fit my Givi box, but meanwhile I'm looking into heater grips and handguards, these ones at present https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Acerbis-0013046-030-Dual-Handguards-Black/dp/B001KODHFU/ref=sr_1_1?_encoding=UTF8&dchild=1&keywords=Acerbis+Handguards&qid=1623517891&sr=8-1