ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: NetPro on July 22, 2019, 11:02:55 PM
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Finished installing the handlebar this weekend. Biggest delay was getting it powder coated but it was worth it waiting: The shop was able to match the sheen of the original bar perfectly and gave it an extra-thick coat. Very pleased with that side of the project.
Does the bike look good after the mod? I cannot say it does but I CAN say it feels perfect and is a pleasure to ride now (even with my aching back).
In all, in addition to the bar, all I had to buy was:
A set of shims from 7/8 to 1 1/8 for the clamp https://tboltusa.com/store/brp-18-to-78-handlebar-adapters-p-10682.html (https://tboltusa.com/store/brp-18-to-78-handlebar-adapters-p-10682.html)
A brake line 5" longer than the original https://www.denniskirk.com/magnum-shielding/black-pearl-designer-series-abs-upper-brake-line-35-10mm-21-in-as47121.p1910487.prd/1910487.sku (https://www.denniskirk.com/magnum-shielding/black-pearl-designer-series-abs-upper-brake-line-35-10mm-21-in-as47121.p1910487.prd/1910487.sku)
A 90 degrees side-sweep banjo https://classictube.com/product/brake-hose-fitting-an-3-3-8-10mm-x-1-0-x-3an-3-8-24-90-degree-side-sweep-chrome/ (https://classictube.com/product/brake-hose-fitting-an-3-3-8-10mm-x-1-0-x-3an-3-8-24-90-degree-side-sweep-chrome/)
A pack of low profile zip ties (identical to what the bikes comes with from Zero) https://www.ebay.com/itm/263496642855 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/263496642855)
I found a local shop with a CNC pipe bender and they made me a customized bar from 7/8" steel pipe.
Since the wiring is long enough to reach, there was no need to extend them: Just re-route slightly some of the cables from the behind the headlight area in a more direct way to where they go.
Had to drill 5 holes in the handlebar: 2 (for the heated grip on the left side) require 4 MM thread. The other three are just to "receive" the locator pin built into the control component attached to the bar and prevent slippage.
Yes, it was a lot of work having to remove all those parts around the headlamp, the "tank" itself and draining the brake fluid and recharging it, but I sure am glad I did as this will allow me to enjoy the machine a lot more than before.
Do I truly like the bike's look now? Not completely: The bar looks too retro and old but if that is what it takes to sit straight and be comfortable, I can live with that.
The good news is this is a non-destructive mod: I can restore the original bar and put everything back the way it was in just a few hours. I would not have done otherwise.
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Picture 2
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Picture 3
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Nice modification, and thanks for tracking how you did it.
Ergonomic fit is important (no point in paying a physical therapist what you save on gas), and options for the SR/F until a sibling model comes out are a good idea.
It does look a little odd, and I’d personally opt for risers first and then maybe a DS bar swap since it might require fewer modifications. Let us know how it works for you!
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Nice modification, and thanks for tracking how you did it.
Ergonomic fit is important (no point in paying a physical therapist what you save on gas), and options for the SR/F until a sibling model comes out are a good idea.
It does look a little odd, and I’d personally opt for risers first and then maybe a DS bar swap since it might require fewer modifications. Let us know how it works for you!
Hey Brian, really glad to see you are back on the forum keeping us straight as you recover from the accident :)
I thought about the risers but was concerned the gained height would block the view of the bottom part of the display; as you know, the bar is mounted right next to it and given the price of the risers I thought it wasn't worth it spending time and money on it.
I do recognize that most people don't need such high bars and one half high, like this one would work for them: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/pro-taper-evo-adventure-handlebars-1-18 (https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/pro-taper-evo-adventure-handlebars-1-18)
Using this bar will give you about half the rise as the one I have and you wouldn't need to buy the shims because this bar is 1 1/8 at the clamp area.
The other items would still need to be purchased as the wiggle room with the brake line is minimal and you would need a line an inch or 2 longer for proper fit.
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Great job.
Now if somebody can also find a fix for the footpegs being up too high and/or seat being to low for me, then I could be around 22K$ poorer also!
-Don- Auburn, CA
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Zero engineers and designers have been vocal about the footpegs supports being more easily swappable. Whether Zero makes accessory options to remount the footpegs lower or someone CNCs a batch of brackets, I don’t think it’ll be a gap that lasts too long.
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Nice work. You've done a very neat job of it. Not to my taste to be honest, but if you like it that's all that matters.
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Yes, it was a lot of work having to remove all those parts around the headlamp, the "tank" itself and draining the brake fluid and recharging it, but I sure am glad I did as this will allow me to enjoy the machine a lot more than before.
Can you talk to us more about this?
What tools?
How much did you have to open the wiring harness?
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Zero engineers and designers have been vocal about the footpegs supports being more easily swappable. Whether Zero makes accessory options to remount the footpegs lower or someone CNCs a batch of brackets, I don’t think it’ll be a gap that lasts too long.
Yep, I am patiently waiting to see what happens. For now, I have done what I like most about the SR/F Premium, to my 2017 SR the 6.3 KW charging. In fact, at home, I can charge mine at 8 KW with a couple of separate AC lines for two quick chargers. But that will be too much to take on the road along with my two Elcon 2.5KW chargers.
BTW, IYO, is being a few lbs over the weight limit in each saddle bag (but only occasionally) much of an issue? So far, all has been okay.
I am glad to see you posting and helping others again!
-Don- Auburn, CA
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Zero engineers and designers have been vocal about the footpegs supports being more easily swappable. Whether Zero makes accessory options to remount the footpegs lower or someone CNCs a batch of brackets, I don’t think it’ll be a gap that lasts too long.
Yep, I am patiently waiting to see what happens. For now, I have done what I like most about the SR/F Premium, to my 2017 SR the 6.3 KW charging. In fact, at home, I can charge mine at 8 KW with a couple of separate AC lines for two quick chargers. But that will be too much to take on the road along with my two Elcon 2.5KW chargers.
BTW, IYO, is being a few lbs over the weight limit in each saddle bag (but only occasionally) much of an issue? So far, all has been okay.
I am glad to see you posting and helping others again!
Each Elcon 2500 weighs 15 pounds, and I had some issues putting one in a top case or a side case. For the top rack, it broke the mounting bolts under the seat, and for the side rack, there was a suspicious amount of sag in the tubing after a while (months). I’d brace the side rack more if I were you, or upgrade to the Happy Trails rack.
If it’s lighter than that, you’re probably okay, though.
I’m online when I can be. It’s easier to type than to speak right now, and offers a way to communicate that I’m not getting while recuperating.
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Very nice detail you put into this project! Thanks for sharing and it looks great!
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Looks surprising really good. Nice job!
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Beautiful workmanship, but it sure looks strange to my eye on the SR/F. Those bars would be prefect on a EV cruiser - if someone would only mass produce one. ???
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Well dayum, that looks quite a bit better than it sounded when you were planning it. I also prefer high mirrors.
Does it still handle OK?
My problem with SR/F is also the high footpegs / low seat / fully bent knees.
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Nice work. You've done a very neat job of it. Not to my taste to be honest, but if you like it that's all that matters.
vinceherman, Lady Luck was with me this time around and I did not have to extend any wiring. I was prepared to, and bought wires from gauge 18 to 26 but did not have to use it.
First remove the left grip. Mine is heated and therefore has a cable but it is pretty long. Lift up a little rubber tab (on the side next to the Mode switch) and you will find 2 tiny Phillip screws diagonally opposed. After removing them, it slides out.
To open the control next to this grip, just remove the two screws all the way and the wires will keep it together and allow you to work with it nicely. Or you can do it the same way the throttle as described next.
For the throttle assembly, you loosen the two screws about 1/4 inch each or more, and spread the half apart (these are security torx (star) screws) slowly until it rotates on the handlebar.
I first opened it completely and had a bit of hard time putting it together because the return spring for the throttle is quite strong and kind of tricky to put together but I managed.
I recommend buying a kit with the security torx if not done already as this will be show stopper when you get there.
Next, the kill switch/cruise control assembly: You can remove the 2 screws all the way and remove it. No reason to try and keep the back end of the assembly attached to the front.
Then, the mirror on the left, a piece of cake to remove and the front brake lever assembly, nothing tricky here either.
Before you start, make sure you have all the tools (metric of course) to remove all bolts/screws and nuts, i.e. in these parts, including a socket to remove the banjo at both ends of the upper brake line (both same size).
Allen wrench for the mirror and brake lever assembly and a socket (or wrench to hold the 2 nuts holding the mirror clamp together).
You also need to remove the "tank" the headlight, the bar supporting the 2 turn lights, the console (don't worry, only four screws and there is nothing to it).
Now, Zero wisely have used wiring quite long and have tucked the unused cable behind the headlamp and sometimes routed the wires around things in there to take up the slack, so you must unplug like 6 or 7 connectors but they are all different, so no worries there.
What I found is that no tools are needed to unplug them: Just examine the connector carefully and you'll see the spot where you need to press to release the clip on the other end that will allow you to just pull them apart (while you press the clip).
Now, if you are not going to go all the way up like I did and will be using a shorter handlebar, you might not need to "free up" all the wiring and it might be easier to do the mod. You have to play it by ear and see what your particular situation requires.
The blinkers are wired kind of strange and not really color coded, I recommend attaching a piece of color tape to the wires if it becomes necessary in your setup to remove them from the bike while you re-route all the cables.
The last thing to mention is the holes you'll need to drill on the new bar, you must copy the location from the original to the new bar, both in distance from the bars' ends and the relative position to the top of the bar, (or the front or back)
They were made with metric bits but I don't think you'd have any issues if you use standard bits and choose the next size up. Except for the two holes that will need thread for the left grip. These are 4 MM thread if you want to reuse the original screws but realistically, you can switch to standard screws (countersink head) if you only have standard taps. They will be size 6 or maybe 8.
The other 3 holes don't need thread and are just to ensure the controls don't slip around the bar if the screws become a bit loose.
I know it sounds very complicated at times but it is not: I am just not a good explainer and once you get going it will be obvious what to do next.
The good news is you can always abort and put it back together the way it was, since you are not modifying any control cables or any other crucial part.
You'll need to get some extra DOT 4 brake fluid to recharge the system after draining it to replace the line. I drained mine at the front caliper, on the right side.
Don't forget to have a few new copper washers available as re-using the old ones is a recipe for leaks.
Any more questions? Just ask. Sorry about the long post but better to have too much detail than too little.
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Well dayum, that looks quite a bit better than it sounded when you were planning it. I also prefer high mirrors.
Does it still handle OK?
My problem with SR/F is also the high footpegs / low seat / fully bent knees.
Yes, it still handles OK. I notice no difference in the handling, much to my surprise, as I thought it would be affected somewhat but again, lady luck was sitting next to me.
I quickly got used to the footpegs where they are and find them comfortable enough to leave them alone for now. I did replace the seat with the higher one provided by Zero. Not that it made a lot of difference, but it was a move in the right direction.
I would like to replace the footpegs with bigger ones (made of rubber maybe) at some point but that would be a much easier job than moving them towards the front and a bit lower.
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Sorry about the long post but better to have too much detail than too little.
THANK you! This is exactly what I was asking for.
Security torx ordered.
Will read through your post in ore detail.
I am considering a 2" riser. Do you imaging I can get that without adding to the brake line?
I am not worried about having to do so, but if I AM going through the trouble of bleeding the brakes, I am also going to get the parking brake banjo bullet thingie.
https://www.bulletbrake.com/product/bb-01/ (https://www.bulletbrake.com/product/bb-01/)
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Sorry about the long post but better to have too much detail than too little.
THANK you! This is exactly what I was asking for.
Security torx ordered.
Will read through your post in ore detail.
I am considering a 2" riser. Do you imaging I can get that without adding to the brake line?
I am not worried about having to do so, but if I AM going through the trouble of bleeding the brakes, I am also going to get the parking brake banjo bullet thingie.
https://www.bulletbrake.com/product/bb-01/ (https://www.bulletbrake.com/product/bb-01/)
I think if you plan on just installing 2" risers you won't need to replace the brake line.
There isn't much leeway with it but the difference in location is so minor that I think it will reach.
Worst case scenario: It works fine with the wheel straight and turned all the way to the right but pulls a bit when turned to the left, in which case you can order the longer cable 1" longer, maybe 2", but definitely not 5".
For such a small increase in height, you probably won't need to mess much with the cables either: they should pull out the amount necessary to allow you to install the risers.
And since you are not replacing the bar, just adding risers, don't have to worry about drilling holes in a new bar.
Of course, you won't need to remove grips and controllers, mirrors, etc. it should be smooth sailing.
It won't put you sitting straight up but if you feel this is all you need to ride comfortably, that's great!
I did not know about the bullet brake thingy. Now I want one. Have to figure which one to order as they make five different ones and the SR/F have a 10 MM banjo.
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I love it! Kind of a retro chopper look to it. It's not conventional to have that sort of bar on a sport bike, but I'm nothing if not unconventional. And hell, I'm way past the age of caring much what it looks like anyhow. If it allows you to ride more, it's a winner.
I also like the elevated mirrors. One of my pet peeves is mirrors that only allow you a good look at your elbows. Raising the mirrors should help that some, at least. Do you notice if your view behind you is improved?
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Another observation: To those of us with bellies, sport bikes can be annoying with their leaned-forward posture that stretches you over their nine-month-pregnant gas tanks. One of the things I noticed about the SR/F is that it does have a pretty fair "tank" bulge, and I'd bet that this would make the bike a lot more comfortable for us bigger riders.
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Zero engineers and designers have been vocal about the footpegs supports being more easily swappable. Whether Zero makes accessory options to remount the footpegs lower or someone CNCs a batch of brackets, I don’t think it’ll be a gap that lasts too long.
Awesome to see you returning Brian! I'm surprised to hear some would like lower pegs. Even with my toes on them I'm still clipping them on the tarmac waaayyy to easily. However, I do agree that it is a bit cramped.
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I love it! Kind of a retro chopper look to it. It's not conventional to have that sort of bar on a sport bike, but I'm nothing if not unconventional. And hell, I'm way past the age of caring much what it looks like anyhow. If it allows you to ride more, it's a winner.
I also like the elevated mirrors. One of my pet peeves is mirrors that only allow you a good look at your elbows. Raising the mirrors should help that some, at least. Do you notice if your view behind you is improved?
Yes Sir, the rear view has indeed improved with the now higher-mounted mirrors.
About the retro look: I wasn't happy with the look at first but as the days go by, I am getting used to it and am beginning to think it is not that bad. It certainly is different but the value to me is the comfort while riding: I no longer have to raise my head up to be able to see through my full face helmet. The head is in a natural, straight forward position, not up or down, just neutral position. That helps a lot not to mention the old back that didn't like the leaning-forward-for-too-long business.
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I did not know about the bullet brake thingy. Now I want one. Have to figure which one to order as they make five different ones and the SR/F have a 10 MM banjo.
In Tom Puleo's post https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/2256398921095970/ (https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/2256398921095970/) he covers the use of the BB-01
In this followup https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/2263616097040919/ (https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/2263616097040919/) he covers the leaking that he encountered and the great customer service the company made on getting him replacement parts.
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I did not know about the bullet brake thingy. Now I want one. Have to figure which one to order as they make five different ones and the SR/F have a 10 MM banjo.
In Tom Puleo's post https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/2256398921095970/ (https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/2256398921095970/) he covers the use of the BB-01
In this followup https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/2263616097040919/ (https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/2263616097040919/) he covers the leaking that he encountered and the great customer service the company made on getting him replacement parts.
Bullet brake is a nice idea, but for $120, I'll stick with my Velcro strap that only cost a couple bucks and no bleeding of the brakeline. Also I was hoping that the bullet brake worked without constant brake fluid pressure on the caliper seals which may shorten the life of the seals. So no better than my Velcro strap. Just my opinion.
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Part of the proposition is that I will possibly already be bleeding the system for the new brake line.
And I am currently employing a bungee.
If I do the brake line as part of my riser install, then the Bullet is going to be included.
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I had no idea what BB-01 refers to; It is a parking brake modification. Full explanation and install on a Zero (DS? by the paint color) at:
Bullet Brake - Close Up Installation (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0em-Eh3DhM)
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I had no idea what BB-01 refers to; It is a parking brake modification. Full explanation and install on a Zero (DS? by the paint color) at:
The company that makes the Bullet Brake makes 5 different versions of of it: Different sizes and finish.
The one that works with Zero bikes is the BB-01. It is the correct size and is black, to match the surrounding finish on the Zeros.
I have one on order and will install it this weekend with a soon-to-follow post with the results.
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I had no idea what BB-01 refers to; It is a parking brake modification. Full explanation and install on a Zero (DS? by the paint color) at:
Bullet Brake - Close Up Installation (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0em-Eh3DhM)
That actually is pretty cool. Easier to bleed the brake line after installation than I thought. I still wonder about premature brake caliper seal leakage if left engaged for extended periods.
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Netpro;
Are you sure that the original line is 16 inches? I purchased a AS47118 18 inch line and it looks awfully short. I am installing 1.5 inch risers with 1.5 pull back this weekend and want to be sure I have what I need to complete the job. The line I purchased measures 18 inches from end to end including the fittings. By the way I like the looks of your install congrats on a great job.
Thanks
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Each Elcon 2500 weighs 15 pounds, and I had some issues putting one in a top case or a side case. For the top rack, it broke the mounting bolts under the seat, and for the side rack, there was a suspicious amount of sag in the tubing after a while (months). I’d brace the side rack more if I were you, or upgrade to the Happy Trails rack.
If it’s lighter than that, you’re probably okay, though.
My Elcons weigh the 15 lbs each. The top case only has a 3.0 KG (6.6 lbs) limit and the side cases have a weight limit of 5.0KG (11 lbs). So I would not consider the top case, but I figure the side cases are close enough if I don't ride too rough.
When you say it took months to notice the issue with the tubing, were you continuously carrying the Elcons or only occasionally? I will only be carrying mine around ten per cent of the time, such as today, when I came back to Reno. Most of the time, I do not ride my Zeros that far so I will not then bring the Elcons.
I am not familiar with the Happy Trails Rack for Zeros. Where do I find such?
(sorry for the hijack)
-Don- Cold Springs Valley, NV
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I am not familiar with the Happy Trails Rack for Zeros. Where do I find such?
-Don- Cold Springs Valley, NV
https://www.happy-trail.com/find-your-bike/zero-motorcycle/su-side-racks.html (https://www.happy-trail.com/find-your-bike/zero-motorcycle/su-side-racks.html)
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https://www.happy-trail.com/find-your-bike/zero-motorcycle/su-side-racks.html (https://www.happy-trail.com/find-your-bike/zero-motorcycle/su-side-racks.html)
Thanks, but I don't see any specs there such as for the weight limits.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Thanks, but I don't see any specs there such as for the weight limits.
-Don- Reno, NV
Yeah, it is missing that info.
I just now posted a question on their Web site asking for that. Hopefully, they will answer it and post the info for all to see.
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Argh my eyes!
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NetPro, nice work!
Do you have any pictures of you on your bike for reference? I always have a hard time envisioning the riding position just from pictures of the bike.
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NetPro, nice work!
Do you have any pictures of you on your bike for reference? I always have a hard time envisioning the riding position just from pictures of the bike.
Thanks!
I don't have any pictures right now but can take one this weekend and post it.