ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: potboiler on July 05, 2019, 01:18:57 PM
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A huge leap forward in design as the srf is I do feel that Zero missed a trick or two that would have increased it’s appeal to more customers. The fixed sporty ergonomics loses riders like me who are older and who like a more relaxed riding position. If they replaced the foot operated rear brake with a left hand brake lever they could have made an adjustable footrest ( it could rotate around the current fixing plate). An adjustable handlebar would also be nice . Triumph and BMW and others have a height adjustable seat - a very simple design - why not the srf? 225 kgs is a considerable weight to move backwards, surely a reverse gear is easy to programme into an electric motor? These are very cheap features to incorporate into a design but very expensive to fit aftermarket.
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considering how poor the range is at highway speeds and mileage is more measured in "city" miles you would think a cruiser style would have come about long before now
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Maybe for some riders, but for me the SR/F hits all the things I was looking for, style, performance, technology.
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A huge leap forward in design as the srf is I do feel that Zero missed a trick or two that would have increased it’s appeal to more customers. The fixed sporty ergonomics loses riders like me who are older and who like a more relaxed riding position. If they replaced the foot operated rear brake with a left hand brake lever they could have made an adjustable footrest ( it could rotate around the current fixing plate). An adjustable handlebar would also be nice . Triumph and BMW and others have a height adjustable seat - a very simple design - why not the srf? 225 kgs is a considerable weight to move backwards, surely a reverse gear is easy to programme into an electric motor? These are very cheap features to incorporate into a design but very expensive to fit aftermarket.
As a fellow older guy, I was concerned about the riding position, but after a test ride, I bought one. After a few commutes (50 miles round trip) I find I am more comfortable than I was on my DSR (less overall fatigue).
Steve
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A huge leap forward in design as the srf is I do feel that Zero missed a trick or two that would have increased it’s appeal to more customers. The fixed sporty ergonomics loses riders like me who are older and who like a more relaxed riding position. If they replaced the foot operated rear brake with a left hand brake lever they could have made an adjustable footrest ( it could rotate around the current fixing plate). An adjustable handlebar would also be nice . Triumph and BMW and others have a height adjustable seat - a very simple design - why not the srf? 225 kgs is a considerable weight to move backwards, surely a reverse gear is easy to programme into an electric motor? These are very cheap features to incorporate into a design but very expensive to fit aftermarket.
I think that the major manufacturers of highway-legal motorcycles are reluctant to add a left-hand brake, like you see in many around-town automatic scooters. My guess is that they are concerned that an experienced rider, such as might purchase an expensive electric motorcycle, would reflexively grab the rear brake by accident, thinking it was the clutch on their ICE bike. This might result in the rear wheel locking, which could cause a high-side when the brake level was released. So I think not having a brake level on the left handlebar is either a liability concern, and/or it might be mandated by U.S./EU vehicle standards for motorcycles of a certain performance level. ???
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As a fellow older guy, I was concerned about the riding position, but after a test ride, I bought one. After a few commutes (50 miles round trip) I find I am more comfortable than I was on my DSR (less overall fatigue).
That's tough to wrap my head around.
I was ready to get off the SR/F in 30 minutes, but I'm bummed when my DSR+PT runs out of juice in 120+ miles.
As to the OP, the SR/F seems like its perfect for the target market as is, but a "DSR/F" or whatever could hit a few of those things and probably sell as well. But at what cost?
I was thinking the other day, the SR/F + Power Tank could weigh 543 lbs. That's getting up there. I assume a DSR/F + Power Tank and all the other features requested would be even closer to 600 lbs. That's a whole lot of bike.
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I guess it is all on viewpoint. Coming from a 650 lb cruiser I am looking forward to a lighter SR/F. To someone coming from a 800+ lb touring bike, the SR/F must feel like a scooter. I find a lot depends on the weight distribution on the bike. If it has a low center of gravity, then you really don’t feel it like with a full heavy fairing and luggage.
As for versatility, there is always something additional that someone wants and something included that someone complains about. I found there is never a perfect product that pleases everyone.
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The leanning-forward position on the SR/F (and the peg location) is indeed a valid point.
I thought I could get used to it but after 2 weeks, I gave up and I am in the process of swapping the handlebar for one that allows for a more upright position.
For now, I will leave the foot peg as they are because I think I am getting used to it. Might change my mind later on that.
I know there will be a penalty in range but if I don't enjoy riding the bike, it doesn't matter what the range is, if it just sits in the garage.
I have ordered all the parts and they should be arriving in the next couple of days.
It will take fine surgery to extend the cables that won't reach to the new handlebar. I already took everything apart and it appears that some cables will reach but I won't know for sure until the the new parts arrive.
The brake line looks like will need replacement but that is the easy part and it only cost around $60.
what makes the project a mess if that Zero used a bar with a diameter of 1 1/8" in the center but the controls are 7/8". The choices are limited with this combination and shimming (or funky adapters) is required.
There is no doubt in my mind that I will love the bike 100% when I get this mod done. I like it a lot now but resent the position of my hands on the handlebar, as they are not in a ergonomic/comfortable posture and would like to sit a bit more straight.
I will post pics once I complete the work
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The leanning-forward position on the SR/F (and the peg location) is indeed a valid point.
I thought I could get used to it but after 2 weeks, I gave up and I am in the process of swapping the handlebar for one that allows for a more upright position.
For now, I will leave the foot peg as they are because I think I am getting used to it. Might change my mind later on that.
I know there will be a penalty in range but if I don't enjoy riding the bike, it doesn't matter what the range is, if it just sits in the garage.
I have ordered all the parts and they should be arriving in the next couple of days.
It will take fine surgery to extend the cables that won't reach to the new handlebar. I already took everything apart and it appears that some cables will reach but I won't know for sure until the the new parts arrive.
The brake line looks like will need replacement but that is the easy part and it only cost around $60.
what makes the project a mess if that Zero used a bar with a diameter of 1 1/8" in the center but the controls are 7/8". The choices are limited with this combination and shimming (or funky adapters) is required.
There is no doubt in my mind that I will love the bike 100% when I get this mod done. I like it a lot now but resent the position of my hands on the handlebar, as they are not in a ergonomic/comfortable posture and would like to sit a bit more straight.
I will post pics once I complete the work
Had you considered bar risers. I know on the older Zeros, many were able to use 1 1/2â€-2†risers without extending the cables. I wonder if the SR/F has enough play in the cables for that also. There are even some risers that will not only bring the bar higher but back also. I figure I will use the bike as is for a while to see if I get used to it before I start modifying it.
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As a fellow older guy, I was concerned about the riding position, but after a test ride, I bought one. After a few commutes (50 miles round trip) I find I am more comfortable than I was on my DSR (less overall fatigue).
That's tough to wrap my head around.
I was ready to get off the SR/F in 30 minutes, but I'm bummed when my DSR+PT runs out of juice in 120+ miles.
As to the OP, the SR/F seems like its perfect for the target market as is, but a "DSR/F" or whatever could hit a few of those things and probably sell as well. But at what cost?
I was thinking the other day, the SR/F + Power Tank could weigh 543 lbs. That's getting up there. I assume a DSR/F + Power Tank and all the other features requested would be even closer to 600 lbs. That's a whole lot of bike.
For me, at least part of the fatigue was less about riding position, and more about stress/stability. Even with the windscreen I felt like I was fighting the DSR on the highway at 70 (lots of buffeting etc). The SR/F seems much more stable and I am able to relax more. Just my 2 cents. If they had a DSR/F, I probably would have gone that route. My dealer did say they had bar risers that would work/fit if I wanted to try, but so far, I'm good with it as is.
Steve
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Had you considered bar risers. I know on the older Zeros, many were able to use 1 1/2â€-2†risers without extending the cables. I wonder if the SR/F has enough play in the cables for that also. There are even some risers that will not only bring the bar higher but back also. I figure I will use the bike as is for a while to see if I get used to it before I start modifying it.
I did but the amount of change provided by those devices is not quite enough for what I have in mind.
There is definitely some leeway on the cables, once you get to them and cut the zip ties that bundle them together and even the brake line, so those satisfied is just a couple of inches would probably do fine. I am shooting for approximately 4".
I did the time-tested routine of putting the bike in a wheel choke, sitting on it and closing the eyes then raising the hands to where you feel they should be while holding the handlebar, including the slanted angle of the bar's ends.
My previous bike of many years was a Yamaha Virago and it had a Buckhorn bar: Super comfortable in my book. The one before that had a mini ape hanger and was almost as comfortable.
While I don't need to have one that high on the SR/F, I am prepared to do what ever it takes to make it feel right for me.
After all, I DO like the machine and want to enjoy it at its fullest.
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This might result in the rear wheel locking, which could cause a high-side when the brake level was released. So I think not having a brake level on the left handlebar is either a liability concern, and/or it might be mandated by U.S./EU vehicle standards for motorcycles of a certain performance level. ???
I was thinking the exact same thing. A couple of times, I forgot to put in the clutch on my BMW at a stop, because I am so used to my Zeros, which I ride more than my seven ICE bikes combined.
-Don- (from the Denny's in NewCastle)
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ABS though?
I've considered adding left rear brake levers to mine. Easier in technical dirt to get a hold of.
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I think some of you guys miss the point of this bike. It is not intended, I believe, to appeal to existing Zero customers. It is not intended for long range or economical commuting, though my early testing seems to show it matches Zero's range claims if ridden carefully. This bike is clearly targeted at people riding ICE sportsbikes or streetfighters in urban environments today. People like me.
I am enthralled with my new SR/F. I never seriously considered buying a Zero before even though I drive electric cars and admire what Zero has done in the past. Generally I found riding the earlier Zeros to be boring. I just got back from a 30 mile blast at about 3/4 hooligan mode and it was absolutely wonderful. Doing range/energy consumption testing yesterday along with a test Level 2 charge while I was out I found I can easily travel efficiently to nearby country roads where I can let it loose a bit and still get a charge to make it home.
I'm in the Dallas/Fort Worth area where charging options are maybe more scarce than in other parts of the country, certainly less than in Europe. This bike will bring in hundreds of new riders with different priorities than someone who might rather have an S or DSR. Making the riding position more relaxed or adding a heavier battery would reduce the appeal of the SR/F to me and other new Zero customers.
Today Zero is swamped with orders, reportedly stopping production on all other bikes to meet the demand. They have a hit on their hands. I would expect the DSR to get a similar upgrade soon (and the SR to be cancelled). Some people won't be happy with the SR/F. Those people aren't the target market.
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I think some of you guys miss the point of this bike. It is not intended, I believe, to appeal to existing Zero customers. It is not intended for long range or economical commuting, though my early testing seems to show it matches Zero's range claims if ridden carefully. This bike is clearly targeted at people riding ICE sportsbikes or streetfighters in urban environments today. People like me.
I am enthralled with my new SR/F. I never seriously considered buying a Zero before even though I drive electric cars and admire what Zero has done in the past. Generally I found riding the earlier Zeros to be boring. I just got back from a 30 mile blast at about 3/4 hooligan mode and it was absolutely wonderful. Doing range/energy consumption testing yesterday along with a test Level 2 charge while I was out I found I can easily travel efficiently to nearby country roads where I can let it loose a bit and still get a charge to make it home.
I'm in the Dallas/Fort Worth area where charging options are maybe more scarce than in other parts of the country, certainly less than in Europe. This bike will bring in hundreds of new riders with different priorities than someone who might rather have an S or DSR. Making the riding position more relaxed or adding a heavier battery would reduce the appeal of the SR/F to me and other new Zero customers.
Today Zero is swamped with orders, reportedly stopping production on all other bikes to meet the demand. They have a hit on their hands. I would expect the DSR to get a similar upgrade soon (and the SR to be cancelled). Some people won't be happy with the SR/F. Those people aren't the target market.
I'm in the same exact boat as you. I've always liked that Zero had staying power, but I honestly hate all of their bikes. I saw the SR/F on the website and thought "now that is more like it, probably won't buy it tho". Stopped in the dealer and saw it in person, traded my harley in and ordered on the spot.
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I'm in the same exact boat as you. I've always liked that Zero had staying power, but I honestly hate all of their bikes. I saw the SR/F on the website and thought "now that is more like it, probably won't buy it tho". Stopped in the dealer and saw it in person, traded my harley in and ordered on the spot.
Same here. Had been thinking about buying an electric motorcycle for years. Never really liked what was out there, both, performance-wise and looks.
When I read the specs and early reviews on the SR/F, decided it was time. Went to the dealer and they had sold their demo so I could not try one.
Put a deposit and was told minimum 3 months.
Not happy about that long wait, started to browse the internet and found a dealer in the north east that sold me their demo with only 50 miles.
Was a bit worried about buying a bike so expensive without first riding it for a bit but decided to do it anyways and I am glad I did.
It is easy to love that machine: much better looking that most previous Zeros and then all that instant, quiet and plentiful torque at your disposal.
I like it now more than when I first got it as it's becoming quieter and softer on the suspension and the rear brake is biting better, as I put miles on it.
The only thing I don't like is the forward-leaning riding position but this is primarily due to my back and shoulders hurting due to an injury many moons ago.
I am in the middle of replacing the handlebar with a Pro Taper Evo Adventure (high model) and I am sure after that I will be sitting in the right position for me.
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I'm in the same exact boat as you. I've always liked that Zero had staying power, but I honestly hate all of their bikes. I saw the SR/F on the website and thought "now that is more like it, probably won't buy it tho". Stopped in the dealer and saw it in person, traded my harley in and ordered on the spot.
Same here. Had been thinking about buying an electric motorcycle for years. Never really liked what was out there, both, performance-wise and looks.
When I read the specs and early reviews on the SR/F, decided it was time. Went to the dealer and they had sold their demo so I could not try one.
Put a deposit and was told minimum 3 months.
Not happy about that long wait, started to browse the internet and found a dealer in the north east that sold me their demo with only 50 miles.
Was a bit worried about buying a bike so expensive without first riding it for a bit but decided to do it anyways and I am glad I did.
It is easy to love that machine: much better looking that most previous Zeros and then all that instant, quiet and plentiful torque at your disposal.
I like it now more than when I first got it as it's becoming quieter and softer on the suspension and the rear brake is biting better, as I put miles on it.
The only thing I don't like is the forward-leaning riding position but this is primarily due to my back and shoulders hurting due to an injury many moons ago.
I am in the middle of replacing the handlebar with a Pro Taper Evo Adventure (high model) and I am sure after that I will be sitting in the right position for me.
Nice, I almost wish I could've purchased the demo bike from my dealer, this wait has been killing me. Can't wait to hear about how the raised handlebar worked out for you.
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The leanning-forward position on the SR/F (and the peg location) is indeed a valid point.
I thought I could get used to it but after 2 weeks, I gave up and I am in the process of swapping the handlebar for one that allows for a more upright position.
For now, I will leave the foot peg as they are because I think I am getting used to it. Might change my mind later on that.
I know there will be a penalty in range but if I don't enjoy riding the bike, it doesn't matter what the range is, if it just sits in the garage.
I have ordered all the parts and they should be arriving in the next couple of days.
It will take fine surgery to extend the cables that won't reach to the new handlebar. I already took everything apart and it appears that some cables will reach but I won't know for sure until the the new parts arrive.
The brake line looks like will need replacement but that is the easy part and it only cost around $60.
what makes the project a mess if that Zero used a bar with a diameter of 1 1/8" in the center but the controls are 7/8". The choices are limited with this combination and shimming (or funky adapters) is required.
There is no doubt in my mind that I will love the bike 100% when I get this mod done. I like it a lot now but resent the position of my hands on the handlebar, as they are not in a ergonomic/comfortable posture and would like to sit a bit more straight.
I will post pics once I complete the work
I for one would appreciate pics and details (parts needed and suppliers) please help as I agree that I would use the bike a lot more if I was more comfortable. I am a 66 year old rider and this position puts my hands to sleep after 10 or so miles. Love the bike however!
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I got the same thing with my SR/F. I was originally concerned with the peg position but found that fine riding. The only thing that bothers me is the wrists/shoulders from the handlebars. I ordered a set a bar risers. Going to have to see if there is enough room in the cables otherwise may have to consider a bigger job of extending them if the numbness in my wrists don't get better.
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I got the same thing with my SR/F. I was originally concerned with the peg position but found that fine riding. The only thing that bothers me is the wrists/shoulders from the handlebars. I ordered a set a bar risers. Going to have to see if there is enough room in the cables otherwise may have to consider a bigger job of extending them if the numbness in my wrists don't get better.
Gary Please let us know how this works out as well. I am desperate to relieve the numbness problem so I can more enjoy this awesome bike.
Thanks in advance!
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I test-rode an SR/F yesterday and my first thought was that the foot pegs were too high. In fact, the position hurt my legs a little and I figured that I had just saved myself a bunch of money. Much to my amazement within a minute or two the pain left and the position didn’t bother me any more. The seat to handlebar geometry isn’t much different than my SR though I must admit I am quite interested to see if anyone has luck with risers as I wouldn’t mind being a little more upright. I rode the the top model with the 2 chargers so I was expecting it to feel heavy but it wasn’t that bad (all of my reasons for not buying one were melting away). I don’t really need fast charging so if I order one it will be the single charger model to save weight and money. I really like the bike. Very smooth and solid and dips into turns very easily. The salesman told me to stay in Street Mode but it didn’t feel any faster than my SR so I quickly pulled over and put it in Sport. Now we’re talking. It feels quicker than the SR around town, especially from a stop, and on the highway there is a huge difference in acceleration. I whacked the throttle at 70mph and was surprised at how hard it threw me back. This is a seriously quick machine. I had been telling myself that I don’t need anything more powerful than my SR but now I want the SR/F anyway. Besides, I really would like to have the electronic safety features. Even though the riding position is on the sporty side, it is nowhere near a supersport and after riding it, I think my 67-year-old bod can adapt. I had gone to the dealership to sell my Honda on consignment and the salesman knew me from buying my SR there so he told me to take the SR/F out for a ride. Damn good sales technique.
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The salesman told me to stay in Street Mode but it didn’t feel any faster than my SR so I quickly pulled over and put it in Sport.
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Why did you have to pull over to change the mode? Don't you just have to let off acceleration like the other zeros?
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The salesman told me to stay in Street Mode but it didn’t feel any faster than my SR so I quickly pulled over and put it in Sport.
Why did you have to pull over to change the mode? Don't you just have to let off acceleration like the other zeros?
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I had just gotten on the bike and wasn’t familiar with the controls yet. It is way more complex than my SR. Just playing it safe.
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The salesman told me to stay in Street Mode but it didn’t feel any faster than my SR so I quickly pulled over and put it in Sport.
Why did you have to pull over to change the mode? Don't you just have to let off acceleration like the other zeros?
I had just gotten on the bike and wasn’t familiar with the controls yet. It is way more complex than my SR. Just playing it safe.
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My dsr is easy too. That's crazy that Zero would make it harder and less safe to change modes on the sr/f while your riding.
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Zero clearly got a lot right with their first Gen3 offering, the SR/F
But,
If you can afford to buy a 22K US moto, odds are good that a sport riding position is not optimal for you, simple demographics.
And along the same line of reasoning: if you are 25 or 28 and want a superb crotch rocket, odds are good you can't afford the SRF.
So Zero has made a superb statement, but maybe perfectly done well in terms of sales and knowing their customers.
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It has a great seat. Handle bars and lower pegs can be but on the bike to make it to your liking.
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Zero clearly got a lot right with their first Gen3 offering, the SR/F
But,
If you can afford to buy a 22K US moto, odds are good that a sport riding position is not optimal for you, simple demographics.
And along the same line of reasoning: if you are 25 or 28 and want a superb crotch rocket, odds are good you can't afford the SRF.
So Zero has made a superb statement, but maybe perfectly done well in terms of sales and knowing their customers.
Probably a good thing that Zero did not make the perfect bike for everyone (an unrealistic concept actually). If they did they would probably be more than 6 months behind on orders rather than the current 3 months.
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I test-rode an SR/F yesterday and my first thought was that the foot pegs were too high. In fact, the position hurt my legs a little and I figured that I had just saved myself a bunch of money. Much to my amazement within a minute or two the pain left and the position didn’t bother me any more. The seat to handlebar geometry isn’t much different than my SR though I must admit I am quite interested to see if anyone has luck with risers as I wouldn’t mind being a little more upright. I rode the the top model with the 2 chargers so I was expecting it to feel heavy but it wasn’t that bad (all of my reasons for not buying one were melting away). I don’t really need fast charging so if I order one it will be the single charger model to save weight and money. I really like the bike. Very smooth and solid and dips into turns very easily. The salesman told me to stay in Street Mode but it didn’t feel any faster than my SR so I quickly pulled over and put it in Sport. Now we’re talking. It feels quicker than the SR around town, especially from a stop, and on the highway there is a huge difference in acceleration. I whacked the throttle at 70mph and was surprised at how hard it threw me back. This is a seriously quick machine. I had been telling myself that I don’t need anything more powerful than my SR but now I want the SR/F anyway. Besides, I really would like to have the electronic safety features. Even though the riding position is on the sporty side, it is nowhere near a supersport and after riding it, I think my 67-year-old bod can adapt. I had gone to the dealership to sell my Honda on consignment and the salesman knew me from buying my SR there so he told me to take the SR/F out for a ride. Damn good sales technique.
I am happy to tell you that the folks at Zero made the wiring long enough to allow a handlebar with up to 10 inches rise and 5.5 pullback.
You can't go higher without having to extend the wiring but a 10 in. rise is pretty good if you just want to sit straight.
It is mostly done by freeing the bundled cables from their zip ties and often slightly changing the INTERNAL path the cables take to the handlebar. Once done, exterior looks of the cables are the same.
I will write a detailed article later with pictures but for the time being, here is a summary:
Don't laugh but this is what I chose for now: https://www.denniskirk.com/quadboss/black-7-8-in-suzuki-oem-bend-handlebar-12-368.p5902801.prd/5902801.sku (https://www.denniskirk.com/quadboss/black-7-8-in-suzuki-oem-bend-handlebar-12-368.p5902801.prd/5902801.sku)
The idea was to further customize it by bending the ends downwards but I could not find a shop willing to do it. While looking for one, found this place where they can make handlebars from scratch, with a CNC pipe bender, to your liking and I had one made but now it must be powder coated before I can put it on and it will take a week.
Handlebar has to be 7/8 in. diameter at the controls. If using one with 7/8 clamping area, you will need the shims below.
I first tried a Pro Taper Evo Adventure High Bend Handlebar 1-1/8" which actually is perfect for the SR/F because it has 7/8 ends and 1 1/8 clamp area but it comes with only about 4 in. rise and I did not like that I was still leaning forward a bit, so I went ahead and bought one with a 10.5 in rise.
Given that the stock bar has about a 2 in. rise, the extra 2 in. did not help much.
Because the SR/F clamp is 1 1/8 you need shims. These will work: https://tboltusa.com/store/brp-18-to-78-handlebar-adapters-p-10682.html (https://tboltusa.com/store/brp-18-to-78-handlebar-adapters-p-10682.html)
The brake line has to be replaced regardless of the rise: there is not much wiggle room there. For my 10.5 in. riser I got a line 21 in. long and a 10MM 35 degrees banjo with a AN#3 on the other end. The stock line is about 16 in long.
This is what I used: https://www.denniskirk.com/magnum-shielding/black-pearl-designer-series-abs-upper-brake-line-35-10mm-21-in-as47121.p1910487.prd/1910487.sku (https://www.denniskirk.com/magnum-shielding/black-pearl-designer-series-abs-upper-brake-line-35-10mm-21-in-as47121.p1910487.prd/1910487.sku)
The most difficult part to find was the banjo that goes on the other end affixed to the ABS controller: 10 MM 90 degrees side sweep: https://classictube.com/product/brake-hose-fitting-an-3-3-8-10mm-x-1-0-x-3an-3-8-24-90-degree-side-sweep-chrome/ (https://classictube.com/product/brake-hose-fitting-an-3-3-8-10mm-x-1-0-x-3an-3-8-24-90-degree-side-sweep-chrome/)
You have to drill 5 holes of different metric sizes and tap thread to 2 of them (for the left heated grip, as I have a premium model) You might need to buy a metric tap for this or change the 2 small screws to SAE type if you prefer.
4 copper crush washers will be needed too as well as very small and medium size black tie wraps.
Of course it is a tedious job: having to remove the headlight, the display and several other parts around the front and draining the hydraulic fluid to replace the line. Not fun.
But let me tell you: It was worth it! I truly love being able to sit straight on that beast and let it go. It is a heck of a lot more comfortable now (for me anyways with my bad back)
I was a bit concerned the high handlebar would make it hard to "command" the machine but to my surprise, it did not and is as easy to maneuver as before, whether at high speed, on a winding road or to position it in the right spot in the garage.
And the whole thing is fully reversible: As long as I don't loose the stock handlebar and brake line, I can put it back the way it was in just a few hours. :)
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Thanks Netpro!. Brake line is doable especially with the parts you already found. I was more concerned with the electronics and it seems they left enough to spare for that. I will probably hold off buying the brake line until the risers are in to confirm it is not long enough and will have to be extended. Also it will allow me to test and see if the 1 1/2†risers are enough or I want to go higher thus getting longer brake line. Thanks for the great info.
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Thanks Netpro!. Brake line is doable especially with the parts you already found. I was more concerned with the electronics and it seems they left enough to spare for that. I will probably hold off buying the brake line until the risers are in to confirm it is not long enough and will have to be extended. Also it will allow me to test and see if the 1 1/2†risers are enough or I want to go higher thus getting longer brake line. Thanks for the great info.
My pleasure!
The good thing about the brake lines is they come in increments of 1 inch so you can get the perfect fit.
The bad thing is they have to be the right length, an inch too long or too short and the job does not come out right. Bugger.
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So order 5 different brake lines.
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If you will install a riser to bring the bar only 2 inches higher or so, you might be OK with the stock line.
Anything over that and you'll need to change the line with a longer one, depending on how high.
It is a good thing many online retailers offer a no-questions-asked return policy: This would be the perfect use for it.
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From NetPro:
Don't laugh but this is what I chose for now: https://www.denniskirk.com/quadboss/black-7-8-in-suzuki-oem-bend-handlebar-12-368.p5902801.prd/5902801.sku
Sorry, but I had to laugh a little. Mini ape hangers on a Zero. Gotta love it. I think 2" risers will be fine for me.
Thanks for all the info.
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Keep in mind the taller the handlebars, the more possibility it will twist in the clamps under heavy accerelation and braking.
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Keep in mind the taller the handlebars, the more possibility it will twist in the clamps under heavy accerelation and braking.
Very valid point! As there is more leverage, more force is applied to the clamp point as you push or pull at the top.
So far I have not had any slippage but if I do, I will come up with something. First possibility: Drill a 3/16 hole through the handlebar, right between the clamp bolt pairs and insert a hardened still pin, that goes like 1/8 of an inch (or even less) into the clamp base itself.
There is plenty of solid material there and it won't weaken the clamp at all and can be removed if/when restoring the bike to original condition.
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From NetPro:
Don't laugh but this is what I chose for now: https://www.denniskirk.com/quadboss/black-7-8-in-suzuki-oem-bend-handlebar-12-368.p5902801.prd/5902801.sku
Sorry, but I had to laugh a little. Mini ape hangers on a Zero. Gotta love it. I think 2" risers will be fine for me.
Thanks for all the info.
This is not quite a mini ape hanger. (getting close, I'd admit)
THIS one is: https://www.denniskirk.com/flanders/mini-ape-hanger-chrome-handlebar-650-28096.p595648.prd/595648.sku (https://www.denniskirk.com/flanders/mini-ape-hanger-chrome-handlebar-650-28096.p595648.prd/595648.sku)
Keep in mind this is a temporary bar until the one I built from scratch at a CNC pipe bender is powder coated. I wanted a trial run to learn all the ins and outs. Hence a $31 sacrificial bar, just for that purpose.
The rise is about right for my needs though, if it was an inch or two shorter it would still work, but no more than that.
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To other followers of this thread who would prefer a more upright riding position: the SR/F uses Zero's standard S and SR low and forward bars. Great for some, not for all. For those of us who prefer or for various reasons downright require a more upright position, surely there are alternative tapered bars that match Zero specs without pitching the rider forward, and do not require more cable length. Someone smart and wise on this forum may know who is already making that option. Just replace the bars, maybe also with an inch or two of bar risers and (for some of us) problem solved.
Looking forward to advice from you wise ones.
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To other followers of this thread who would prefer a more upright riding position: the SR/F uses Zero's standard S and SR low and forward bars. Great for some, not for all. For those of us who prefer or for various reasons downright require a more upright position, surely there are alternative tapered bars that match Zero specs without pitching the rider forward, and do not require more cable length. Someone smart and wise on this forum may know who is already making that option. Just replace the bars, maybe also with an inch or two of bar risers and (for some of us) problem solved.
Looking forward to advice from you wise ones.
Right you are, heroto, they do make such a thing: I tried one but wasn't high enough for me to sit up straight. See attachment.
=PTP002I-X001-Y002]https://www.motosport.com/pro-taper-evo-adventure-handlebars-oversize-118?variant[PTP002I]=PTP002I-X001-Y002 (https://www.motosport.com/pro-taper-evo-adventure-handlebars-oversize-118?variant[PTP002I)
It is the right thickness in the clamp area and the controls too, just not high enough if you want to truly sit up straight in the SR/F with the high seat installed.
Hard as I looked, did not find another one higher with the same tapered configuration but that is not to say it doesn't exist.
Because the stock handlebar has about a 2 in. rise, this bar provides an extra couple of inches of rise which might be all that some people need and in that case, it is perfect if you don't mind the white/yellow stuff printed on it.
If using this bar, only other thing needed is the brake line as I was not able to get the stock one to reach it without pulling too much when turning to the left.
I provided info on this earlier in this thread. It is not hard to do and you'll only need to drill 5 holes on the new bar and tap thread to 2 of them, as described earlier.
I considered adding a bar riser but decided not to because it looks like the bar then would block the bottom of the screen, as it lays low, right behind the bar. I may have overestimated how high the risers would put the bar and this may not be an issue.
I am very happy I took the time end effort to make this mod: I find my bike a lot more comfortable now and my back stopped complaining.
Hopefully, someone will know of higher bars with the tapered configuration and will post links to them.
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Does anyone have a before and after picture using these Pro Taper Evo Adventure bars?
Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
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Tried to post a picture for you but that photo needs to be downsized. Bar worked out well. Plenty of length in the wiring but the front brake hose requires either re-routing or change to a slightly longer hose. If you have the heated grips you need a 4 mm tap and the metric drill bit for it to install the heated grip on the left side along with various drills to put holes in the bar for the anti-rotation nubs in the various controls. Be really careful when removing the throttle assembly as springs and things come out of it (don't ask me how I know). The trick is to loosen the front "shell" of the assembly just enough to get the nub out of the bar. Holding the rear shell with your thumb, slide the throttle off the bar and then push the two shells back together and tighten the screws until you are ready to reinstall it on the new bar. This keeps the internal parts in place without the stupid return spring from flying out. Also, if you have heated grips make sure the wire from the grip is routed properly through the front shell.
The bar is about 3 inches higher and 2 inches wider than the factory bar. You cannot cut the bar length down as there is only 8 inches of 7/8 inch diameter bar at the ends and you need all of it to mount the controls. I strongly believe the factory bar is also a Pro Taper by looking at the design and the wall thickness but is a lot lower. If you are looking for a more upright, standard motorcycle seating position and not the "streetfighter" stance, this bar will do the trick. Almost all of my weight is now taken off my arms. This is what I disliked about the factory bar--I am looking for a bike to ride, not race from every stop light.