ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Electric Cowboy on March 22, 2018, 11:50:54 AM
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Morgan filmed some of what I was working on the other day.
The gist of it is that while riding your dash looks the same, however when you roll off the throttle to neutral or even into regen if you want, you will see the resting voltage instead of wh/mi. Also when you are charging, you will see the amps in the range area. If you wanted to see the range again you would just roll the throttle a little. Basically the best of both worlds and you have real time ACCURATE guage of what is left in your battery.
It is the best fix for the current firmware issue I have come up with. And It's pretty exciting even if there wasn't a firmware issue in the Zero.
Remember, always trust your voltage!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XraWlLEtD8k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XraWlLEtD8k)
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It's so ridiculous that Zero doesn't put voltage or amps on the dash and bad ass that you are out there solving for Zero's deficiencies.
Rock on brother!
When can I buy one and for how much?
Does it work with key off?
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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Thanks Mr. Wilson!
Currently it only works while the bike is on to keep with stock bike functionality. I don't want to change things too dramatically right off the bat.
What do you think something like this would be worth? I'll probably use a machined housing and pot the boards with a USB for updates and power from the accessory USB plug.
I know for people with the firmware bug it is basically priceless, and crazy riders like Terry and I have wanted this functionality forever.
Machined parts are expencive though. I can probably reduce costs by using the same housing as the SCv2 control board.
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I completely agree..... voltage is a critical piece of information and the only thing you can completely trust. Before I even bought my first Zero I was already thinking about this problem with their design. My work around was installing a DVM to get voltage and using the Zero app for amps. Anton's voltage app also works great for amps and voltage and I use it too.
I do like that the way I have my DVM wired I can see voltage from a distance without having to walk over and key on and/or mess with Bluetooth. But your solution is without a doubt the cleanest solution for anyone that wants a clean or stock looking bike and doesn't want to mess with Bluetooth connections.
If I'm walking up to my bike while it's charging to check voltage and amps it's not really a big deal to key on so I think you probably made the right design call to keep it simple.
I like that that you are potting. I ride through all weather and the potting on the SCv2 control boards has performed flawlessly and I potted my DVM in the same way and it too continues to work perfectly after over 14k miles.
I can't wait to see and try out the finished product!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180322/93036bb4d6b3687d90defe1ae3fc40fc.jpg)
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
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Thanks for the encouragement!
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The funny thing is that when I gave my daughter my 2014 S I showed her the different types of information that could be shown on the dash display, as well as how to use the Zero app and what it would show about the condition of her bike. That discussion was pretty much a waste of time. ::) All she pays attention to on the dash is her speed and the remaining battery charge. She has fun riding the bike but just doesn't care about things like motor temperature, voltage, projected range, trip mileage, etc. She doesn't even bother to look at the time display since I placed an analog stick-on clock on the right mirror. ;)
While I enjoy learning about the condition of my vehicles and what they are doing while I am riding, I think there are a lot more people who don't care about that stuff and just want to ride. ???
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Fantastic! OT, but what bikini fairing is that? It looks great!
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I have yet to watch the video and need to think on it some more, but this is definitely an interesting hack!
It's good that you're minimizing override of the operating display, and particularly to only override when voltage is likeliest to match a resting state.
The funny thing is that when I gave my daughter my 2014 S I showed her the different types of information that could be shown on the dash display, as well as how to use the Zero app and what it would show about the condition of her bike. That discussion was pretty much a waste of time. ::) All she pays attention to on the dash is her speed and the remaining battery charge. She has fun riding the bike but just doesn't care about things like motor temperature, voltage, projected range, trip mileage, etc. She doesn't even bother to look at the time display since I placed an analog stick-on clock on the right mirror. ;)
While I enjoy learning about the condition of my vehicles and what they are doing while I am riding, I think there are a lot more people who don't care about that stuff and just want to ride. ???
That's definitely something we should expect of most riders, but it's also a factor that they're a relation and gave them the bike, so it's easier for them to relax knowing someone they trust can answer questions.
Also, you're in the SF Bay Area where the manufacturer is reachable, besides two dealers.
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I have yet to watch the video and need to think on it some more, but this is definitely an interesting hack!
It's good that you're minimizing override of the operating display, and particularly to only override when voltage is likeliest to match a resting state.
The funny thing is that when I gave my daughter my 2014 S I showed her the different types of information that could be shown on the dash display, as well as how to use the Zero app and what it would show about the condition of her bike. That discussion was pretty much a waste of time. ::) All she pays attention to on the dash is her speed and the remaining battery charge. She has fun riding the bike but just doesn't care about things like motor temperature, voltage, projected range, trip mileage, etc. She doesn't even bother to look at the time display since I placed an analog stick-on clock on the right mirror. ;)
While I enjoy learning about the condition of my vehicles and what they are doing while I am riding, I think there are a lot more people who don't care about that stuff and just want to ride. ???
That's definitely something we should expect of most riders, but it's also a factor that they're a relation and gave them the bike, so it's easier for them to relax knowing someone they trust can answer questions.
Also, you're in the SF Bay Area where the manufacturer is reachable, besides two dealers.
The point I was attempting to make in a roundabout way is that I believe (having spent a lot of time on motorcycle brand-specific forums) that many young people, and especially women, have little or no interest in what makes vehicles, like motorcycles and cars go. They just want them to go and to get them somewhere. The how and why is not interesting to most younger people that didn't grow up spinning a wrench in a garage - or doing whatever it is that you guys do on your workbench. ;) While you and I likely find lots of information about our vehicles interesting and enjoyable to know, I believe that most future consumers will not be as interested in this kind of stuff as us "early adopters". ???
And the younger they get, the less interested they become, to the point that many young people (including my two college-age granddaughters) are not even interested in owning a motor vehicle. If they need to go somewhere they take a bus or call a Uber or Lyft-thing - while holding out for the self-driving AI vehicle to solve all of their transportation problems. ::)
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Richard I think the best part for your daughter is the fact that by being a woman she won't do the stupid things like say " 0% SOC, let me see if I can go 2 more miles" the way men do. :)
A woman is smart enough just to go recharge.
As for the OP I wish Zero would hire you guys to get these bikes' firmware and app code finally up to speed.
I did have one question though. On my 13 DS if I have the app up (version ???) with the bike on it goes to the "dash display" only. But if I hit the throttle kill switch I can go to the "battery" screen and see my voltage. Do the later bikes do this too?
Also thanks for the aux port to female 120 cord setup from Diginow, Brandon, an electric chainsaw powered from a motorcycle is the only way to go. 8)
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Richard I think the best part for your daughter is the fact that by being a woman she won't do the stupid things like say " 0% SOC, let me see if I can go 2 more miles" the way men do. :)
A woman is smart enough just to go recharge.
As for the OP I wish Zero would hire you guys to get these bikes' firmware and app code finally up to speed.
I did have one question though. On my 13 DS if I have the app up (version ???) with the bike on it goes to the "dash display" only. But if I hit the throttle kill switch I can go to the "battery" screen and see my voltage. Do the later bikes do this too?
Also thanks for the aux port to female 120 cord setup from Diginow, Brandon, an electric chainsaw powered from a motorcycle is the only way to go. 8)
My 2014 S displayed all of the information that the current app displays, except that until recently, it showed the battery condition using two screens. The new app does it using one screen that you need to scroll down to see everything. I never had to use the 2014's kill switch to do anything.
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Slick hack. Could this also be a data display method for a randomized bluetooth pairing pin code? Interested in better security on the data reaper type product.
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So Richard your app shows your bike's voltage when riding?
I thought that was what everybody has been talking about the bike needing.
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The OP posted it as showing voltage only @ zero throttle. Assuming that's the "Richard" that you speak of.
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Hey guys, I think Rich may not be aware of why I built this.
Sometimes the new firware will show 75% when you are at 0% and sometimes it will show 0% when you are at 75% so trusting the percent is not possible for any bikes updated after May 2017.
The bikes will still ride reasonably well (some minor effects) however if you do not know what % you are at you are screwed. So the voltage is the *only* think a rider can rely on with the new FW.
Immagine getting on your bike after someone unplugged you and your bike says it is at 75% SOC but its at 97v... more like 15-20% SOC real. after a few miles the bike will shut off and you will be stranded because you did not know you needed to charge.
Seeing the voltage is a work around for that issue. I agree with what you are saying @ Rich, but sadly right now if they rely on that they are screwed because it is unreliable.
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So Richard your app shows your bike's voltage when riding?
I thought that was what everybody has been talking about the bike needing.
I was talking about when the bike is at rest and when I was looking at the app. I thought that was what New2elec was talking about. Apparently, I became confused. ???
I have never tried to look at my cell phone while riding, so I didn't even think about that being the question. Now I understand what Electric Cowboy is saying. However, so far my dash display showing battery capacity in percentage terms seems to be accurate based upon the distance that I ride and rated pack capacity. That is/was true for my 2012, 2014 and 2018 Zeros. I have never noticed any issue with my new firmware being weird with its pack percentage or estimated range guesstimates.
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Richard, Don't upgrade firmware any time soon and it will stay that way!
If you have good firmware, this is just for geeks like me ;)
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The app only shows voltage when kick stand is down and/or kill switch off. While riding the app switches to riding screen which does not have voltage as an option.
A workaround while riding is to flip kill switch to off so app changes to battery page so voltage can be checked, then flip kill switch back to run. This isn't perfect as sometimes the app misbehaves in one way or another.
Electric Cowboys mod shows voltage on the bikes display by just rolling to neutral throttle while riding. No messing with phone before ride. Doesn't require flipping switches back and forth. Doesn't matter if kick stand is up or down. Works while riding or charging.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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That's what I thought Mr. Wilson, Brandon's way is better but there was a way to check the voltage as is. Thanks.
Sorry Richard, my posts are always clear in my head but don't make it to the key board, well most of the time. :)
Keep the fixes coming there cowboy!
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I'll probably use a machined housing and pot the boards with a USB for updates and power from the accessory USB plug.
dont do that.
Machine a mold, then pot the board into shape with polyurathane, or other suitable material. I used to use this: https://www.smooth-on.com/spotlight/casting-finishing-smooth-cast-onyx-deep-black-resin/
Much cheaper, vibration and weather proof. etc.
It could just plug into the bike as a small unit, like the cheap $7 ODBII readers do.
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@MrDude_1
Molds and casting is something we are just getting into. Any info you can point me to would be appreciated. Hapco stuff looks like the easiest way to get into it at the volumes we are doing and they hold your hand since their parts are so expencive. The tools are just so expencive, but I suppose that is still cheaper than paying people by the hour to mix and pour and make ratio mistakes with the Urathane or PolyUrea. Potting with similar resins in machined boxes has proven to be the most reliable solution thus far for a fast, clean, and durable product with minimal loss due to imperfection or human error.
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@MrDude_1
Molds and casting is something we are just getting into. Any info you can point me to would be appreciated. Hapco stuff looks like the easiest way to get into it at the volumes we are doing and they hold your hand since their parts are so expencive. The tools are just so expencive, but I suppose that is still cheaper than paying people by the hour to mix and pour and make ratio mistakes with the Urathane or PolyUrea. Potting with similar resins in machined boxes has proven to be the most reliable solution thus far for a fast, clean, and durable product with minimal loss due to imperfection or human error.
The man I learned most of this from has passed on, so I only have the limited experience of the project I used to sell. I made a plug in replacement for the exhaust servo motor for 08+ honda sportbikes. At the time, the plug was not available. I added modeling clay to a stock plug, and made a silicone mold around it.
I would push the pins and board into the model cavity, pour in some urathane and 5mins later I could demold a hot part. I eventually made 3 molds so I could just keep doing it non-stop for an evening. Total cost for the mold and casting stuff was under $80 and that made a couple hundred parts with some left over.
Potting in a box is also good, as long as its cost effective. Otherwise you might as well cast them in your own mold.
I know it sounds really low tech compared to something machined... You can always machine the mold, or 3d print the item and mold from it... The end user never really knows the diff as long as you make a quality item.
I use Smooth-On products for most things. They're huge in the small-shop molding world, their products are mature, and they can usually help you with any questions that come up.
Something like this I would prefer it be as small as possible. Plug in and go... so a potted box seems wrong... but thats also my opinion on it and I wouldnt fault you if gen one of it was this way.
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prototype
(http://fastgm.com/travis/cbr1000/ServoElim/01-02-10_1126.jpg)
my first ever silicone mold:
(http://fastgm.com/travis/cbr1000/ServoElim/01-02-10_1128.jpg)
white molded prototype in place:
(http://fastgm.com/travis/cbr1000/ServoElim/01-02-10_1229.jpg)
some progression.
(http://fastgm.com/travis/cbr1000/ServoElim/01-06-10_2052.jpg)
*moderator edit* set image widths
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EC, since you are potting anyway, do you need a case? Maybe you could get away with the epoxy of the potting being the container, embed a bolt or something. If the material needs further protection, maybe a dip in epoxy paint, or double-layered heat-shrink. Don't neglect the stress relief for the wires.
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This stuff is not really so much for people who rarely ride far or charge fast.
If I recall correctly, Richard and his daughter have factory bikes and factory add-ons.
If you charge to full with factory charger, and make sure to charge before you get to 20 miles estimated range, you are probably fine without looking every at the voltage. It's the road-trippers and the partial/charge folks who need the voltage displayed.
Richard, Don't upgrade firmware any time soon and it will stay that way!
If you have good firmware, this is just for geeks like me ;)
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@TOGO, the latest firmware can mess up your average rider as well. Immagine the breaker is shared and trips for some reason and you go out ant the bike shows 75% but is at 97v... big trouble ahead if you dont have an outlet near by. This happened to me the other day on a bike I was working on. It read 48% but was at 96v.
also @ 20 miles range... while riding a bike 2 days ago to the factory, the range stayed at a constant 68 miles for the last 20 miles then started to increase. All the while the voltage was going down. The factory is only 50/60 miles from me.
So this is kind of important for EVERYONE with the new firmware. Not just geeks like us. But for those of us that have the old firmware it is still super important for road tripping when you are getting low or fast charging so you can better guage your range and charge time.
Just food for thought anyway.
@MrDude_1 thanks for the info!
This stuff is not really so much for people who rarely ride far or charge fast.
If I recall correctly, Richard and his daughter have factory bikes and factory add-ons.
If you charge to full with factory charger, and make sure to charge before you get to 20 miles estimated range, you are probably fine without looking every at the voltage. It's the road-trippers and the partial/charge folks who need the voltage displayed.
Richard, Don't upgrade firmware any time soon and it will stay that way!
If you have good firmware, this is just for geeks like me ;)
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Dude, you have a fuel pump relay in your Zero?!?
;D
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I hope this hasn't been asked before on this thread (I looked but couldn't find an answer), but what is the voltage cutoff for the battery system on the Zero when the pack is depleted?
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Brandon,
Your hack is quite interesting.
Your hack solves a huge problem of incorrect data - It shows the true status of the battery at a glance.
I now rely on the Android app - ‘Zero Voltage’ - but find it’s sometimes inconvenient as I must mount it to the handle bars prior to riding. Me - I just want to ride and not spend time hooking/mounting things. Yep, I’ve had to recover my bike three times and trailer it back to my residence because I relied on false data on the dash.
Your hack highlights that people will find a useful/needed workaround if a manufacturer fails to. The data on the official Zero app and the dash data will likely never be reliable as it once was (or was it).
Firmware updates - I wish Zero would revert my 2014 SR to the original firmware.
Zero official app - I wish Zero would re-release the original Zero app.
Your hack - produce it now.
Send me one soonest.
For planning purposes - What’s the expected cost?
For planning purposes - What’s the recommended mounting location?
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Morgan filmed some of what I was working on the other day.
The gist of it is that while riding your dash looks the same, however when you roll off the throttle to neutral or even into regen if you want, you will see the resting voltage instead of wh/mi. Also when you are charging, you will see the amps in the range area. If you wanted to see the range again you would just roll the throttle a little. Basically the best of both worlds and you have real time ACCURATE guage of what is left in your battery.
It is the best fix for the current firmware issue I have come up with. And It's pretty exciting even if there wasn't a firmware issue in the Zero.
Remember, always trust your voltage!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XraWlLEtD8k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XraWlLEtD8k)
Just wonder, as great as this idea is.
if your Zero decides its out of juice it stops running, wether the voltage is over or under the “0†mark
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I hope this hasn't been asked before on this thread (I looked but couldn't find an answer), but what is the voltage cutoff for the battery system on the Zero when the pack is depleted?
Cutoff is between 88V and 91V depending on cell balance....that's resting voltage....voltage can go a little lower under load. If cell balance is high then bike cuts off at a higher voltage. For newer bikes (starting in 2015 I think) the bike will show 0% battery at about 95-96V. From 95-96V down to 88-91V is your reserve. This is the other advantage of knowing exact voltage....when you get to "0%" you know how close you are to the voltage where the bike will actually cut off.
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I hope this hasn't been asked before on this thread (I looked but couldn't find an answer), but what is the voltage cutoff for the battery system on the Zero when the pack is depleted?
Cutoff is between 88V and 91V depending on cell balance....that's resting voltage....voltage can go a little lower under load. If cell balance is high then bike cuts off at a higher voltage. For newer bikes (starting in 2015 I think) the bike will show 0% battery at about 95-96V. From 95-96V down to 88-91V is your reserve. This is the other advantage of knowing exact voltage....when you get to "0%" you know how close you are to the voltage where the bike will actually cut off.
Thanks, I didn't know that.
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> @TOGO, the latest firmware can mess up your average rider as well. Immagine the breaker is shared and trips for some reason and you go out ant the bike shows 75% but is at 97v... big trouble ahead if you dont have an outlet near by. This happened to me the other day on a bike I was working on. It read 48% but was at 96v.
> also @ 20 miles range... while riding a bike 2 days ago to the factory, the range stayed at a constant 68 miles for the last 20 miles then started to increase. All the while the voltage was going down. The factory is only 50/60 miles from me.
> So this is kind of important for EVERYONE with the new firmware. Not just geeks like us. But for those of us that have the old firmware it is still super important for road tripping when you are getting low or fast charging so you can better guage your range and charge time.
Oh, yeah, good points!
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Just a random thoughts from re-watching that video just now.
Do you have all of the gauge display data figured out?
I mean, if someone wanted to build a custom dash now, do you have everything from the CAN bus figured out so that they could build one?
and what color is your bike? Im back to building my CR500 supermoto and going with Polaris Yellow Pearl ( aka florescent Yellow vid for color: https://youtu.be/aubMQbZmqOs?t=389 )
I noticed the glow on your bike... is it a similar hyperbright color and the camera has trouble picking it up?
I know, I know... super trick ODBII hacking thread, and I end up asking what color the bike is... lol
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Just a random thoughts from re-watching that video just now.
Do you have all of the gauge display data figured out?
I mean, if someone wanted to build a custom dash now, do you have everything from the CAN bus figured out so that they could build one?
and what color is your bike? Im back to building my CR500 supermoto and going with Polaris Yellow Pearl ( aka florescent Yellow vid for color: https://youtu.be/aubMQbZmqOs?t=389 )
I noticed the glow on your bike... is it a similar hyperbright color and the camera has trouble picking it up?
I know, I know... super trick ODBII hacking thread, and I end up asking what color the bike is... lol
Back to topic[emoji13]
I wonder, why not just use a 12v voltmeter, using a voltage divider betw B- & B+.
Some voltmeter have three connections, gnd, 12v and a connection to probe the actual voltage. Thus lets say you have a 10kOhm voltage divider at 1:10 the voltmeter would read 11.6 at fully charged battery, and only providing readuot when the DC DC converter is active ie the bike is on. The power draw on the battery , through the voltage divider will be next to nothing. The whole setup would cost perhaps 10$
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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On my old motorcycle, I installed a small voltmeter since I had so much connected draining the battery. Of course this being an all electric bike I'm curious if that would work as well? It's not as high tech but at least it would give you an idea of the voltage constantly.
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You can read it out with more stats via this app (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bitshape.zero_voltage).
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Hey guys, strapping a volt meter on your pack works too if you have the balls to have unfused improperly inulated wires running through your bike.
I did it for a while... Terry did it for a while... Togo still has one... Its possible, and easy, if your cool when you vaporize something ;)
Remember, just because we hackers do something doesnt mean it is a good idea ;) The good ideas do end up making it into products like this though once we figure out how to do it safely.
@custom dash, yup, a custom dash is totally doable.
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> I wonder, why not just use a 12v voltmeter, using a voltage divider betw B- & B+.
Cuz you can easily get a 120vdc meter on ebay. I've got one wired up.
> You can read it out with more stats via this app.
Anton's Zero Voltage app is awesome, and a bargain at $4.99
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> I wonder, why not just use a 12v voltmeter, using a voltage divider betw B- & B+.
Cuz you can easily get a 120vdc meter on ebay. I've got one wired up.
> You can read it out with more stats via this app.
Anton's Zero Voltage app is awesome, and a bargain at $4.99
Is there someplace to temporarily connect a voltmeter without having to take apart the bike? On my 2012 Zero all I had to do was to remove the accessory charging connection cap on the right side of the bike to access a location where you could check the bike's voltage.
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>> Anton's Zero Voltage app is awesome, and a bargain at $4.99
Thanks for the hint! I downloaded and tried today. Looks good - Clean, Clear.
I needed it yesterday, when I ran out of battery for the first time after 12,000 miles with my 8.5Kwh 2013 Zero-S
I knew I was pushing it, leaving @ 7 bars, needing 7 in eco doing 70 to get the 32 mile to work with 29 highway.
I was likely to get into the last flashing bar.
Somehow I thought there was a 'hidden' 12th bar as reserve, but no!
With 1/2 mile of highway left the last bar went blank and speed dropped rapidly 70 - 60 - 50.
Guess I forgot to take the slight uphill over the last mile into account.
I had to wait for a big break in traffic to somewhat safely cross 3 lanes @ 30 for my left exit, with still a mile to go.
Speed dropped to 20 .. 15 or so on the long exit ramp, but it seemed happier at 10, so that's what I did... scary!
Stopped at hotel with outside wall outlet and charged for 10 minutes before finishing the last 1/2 mile @40.
btw... going all out at 80 - 85 (along with traffic in 55 zone ?!) I use 9 out of 11 bars, with a minor heat warning on last slight uphill.
So I need to charge at work to get back home. When the outlet at work was done for a few weeks I had to use side roads.
At 40 .. 45 Mph, I need just over 5 bars and I can make it out and back to work with 65+ miles and 1 or 2 bars flashing at me.
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Is there someplace to temporarily connect a voltmeter without having to take apart the bike? On my 2012 Zero all I had to do was to remove the accessory charging connection cap on the right side of the bike to access a location where you could check the bike's voltage.
Same idea applies to MY2013+ you can measure voltage at the AUX charging port, it is "live" through a medium sized fuse (100A+ depending on model year). The parts to order are APP SBS75XBRN and the crimp pins, you don't need the hybrid signal pins in the middle (3-5Vdc logic for charging enable), but you could probably get clever and stuff some kind of low-amp mini fuse holder inside that kind of connector shell for mitigating a high-amperage short and damage that medium size charging fuse. Anderson Power Products plugs like this are rated for generous connect/disconnect cycles and are easy to pin/un-pin with basic hand tools.
If you're comfortable sticking DMM leads into things, uh... those contacts on the AUX charging connector are pretty easy to get to, but of course the warning goes it's high voltage and gonna be a bad time if you stick two fingers in there.
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Is there someplace to temporarily connect a voltmeter without having to take apart the bike? On my 2012 Zero all I had to do was to remove the accessory charging connection cap on the right side of the bike to access a location where you could check the bike's voltage.
Same idea applies to MY2013+ you can measure voltage at the AUX charging port, it is "live" through a medium sized fuse (100A+ depending on model year). The parts to order are APP SBS75XBRN and the crimp pins, you don't need the hybrid signal pins in the middle (3-5Vdc logic for charging enable), but you could probably get clever and stuff some kind of low-amp mini fuse holder inside that kind of connector shell for mitigating a high-amperage short and damage that medium size charging fuse. Anderson Power Products plugs like this are rated for generous connect/disconnect cycles and are easy to pin/un-pin with basic hand tools.
If you're comfortable sticking DMM leads into things, uh... those contacts on the AUX charging connector are pretty easy to get to, but of course the warning goes it's high voltage and gonna be a bad time if you stick two fingers in there.
Thanks for the information, but clever I am not when it comes to anything electrical. So I think I will pass and just depend on the Zero app. ;)
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I've been using the Zero Voltage app for about 8 months. I have it displayed on my tablet mounted on the handlebars and use it for instant feedback on energy consumption/recovery. I also set my trip2 to read whr/mile. I have learned that a 10% movement of the throttle at backroad cruising speed doesn't net much of a speed increase but consumption rises drastically. I've also discovered how lightly I can apply the brakes and still get maximum regen. Based on what I've learned, I run my custom mode with 100% top speed, torque, and brake regen, while using 0% coasting regen. I get all the performance of sport mode but my whr/mile has dropped from 115 to 90-95. One thing that really surprised me was how pitifully small the coasting harvesting was in sport mode (factory set at 30%). That app has made me a much better Zero rider.
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I've been using the Zero Voltage app for about 8 months. I have it displayed on my tablet mounted on the handlebars and use it for instant feedback on energy consumption/recovery. I also set my trip2 to read whr/mile. I have learned that a 10% movement of the throttle at backroad cruising speed doesn't net much of a speed increase but consumption rises drastically. I've also discovered how lightly I can apply the brakes and still get maximum regen. Based on what I've learned, I run my custom mode with 100% top speed, torque, and brake regen, while using 0% coasting regen. I get all the performance of sport mode but my whr/mile has dropped from 115 to 90-95. One thing that really surprised me was how pitifully small the coasting harvesting was in sport mode (factory set at 30%). That app has made me a much better Zero rider.
Your experience and drive setup is the same as mine. Except that I don't use the Zero app while riding. I find looking at it distracts from my riding experience - and safety while moving, as it takes me a while to focus from distance to the display.
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Yep, custom mode with 100% brake regen and 0% motor regen (i.e. max coasting) is the way to go. I also set mine up for max speed and torque.
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Your experience and drive setup is the same as mine. Except that I don't use the Zero app while riding. I find looking at it distracts from my riding experience - and safety while moving, as it takes me a while to focus from distance to the display.
That's why I use an 8" tablet much higher in my line of sight. I glance down to look at the rate (w) and current (amps) which are quick to pick out since they are red under acceleration and green under braking.
I use capacity as my "fuel" gauge and don't even pay attention to the % guess-o-meter on the instrument panel.
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Were you able to install the Zero app directly on your tablet, or did you have to side-load it?
I seem to remember it showing "not compatible" in the Google Play store.
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...I seem to remember it showing "not compatible" in the Google Play store.
I've seen this message on non-ARM CPU architecture Android... per-chance you have an Intel Atom CPU tablet?
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> > ...I seem to remember it showing "not compatible" in the Google Play store.
> I've seen this message on non-ARM CPU architecture Android... per-chance you have an Intel Atom CPU tablet?
Me? No. Various tablets, all ARM, always showed Not Compatible, like Zero chose to upload as "phones only".
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Were you able to install the Zero app directly on your tablet, or did you have to side-load it, Rugby4Life?
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I've got a Samsung Tab S2 and everything loaded smoothly. I have both the Zero app and the 3rd party Zero Voltage apps loaded on the tablet. switching between the 2 while on the bike usually requires closing out 1 app before opening the other one. The good thing is the Bluetooth connection isn't lost when switching. The Zero Voltage app can run in split screen mode along with maps, plugshare, or audio app running to my LE Boom 2 speaker. The factory app doesn't support split screen mode for some reason.
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You have a roll-up cover for your tablet there? Is that what I see?
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Togo, the orange thing is the Ultimate Ears Boom2 speaker.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eELisPqno2s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eELisPqno2s)
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> > You have a roll-up cover for your tablet there? Is that what I see?
> Togo, the orange thing is the Ultimate Ears Boom2 speaker.
Oh, gotcha! Mine's black. And mounts on my SP drop bar, where the police would mount a megaphone.