ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: quixotic on May 18, 2016, 07:21:15 PM
-
I'll probably have more as I go along...and if others want to chime in about other fairings and other projects, that'd be great.
But initially, I'm just wondering if the 2013 S headlight wiring is fairly simple? I'm thinking of installing the Airtech Ducati SS half fairing, along with the HL6 universal headlight. It would be nice to just do a few simple solder connections.
http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagefairingshalf.htm (http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagefairingshalf.htm)
-
Uses a standard connector...H4 I think.
Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
-
It's pretty much a standard H4 motorcycle headlight solution with an of the shelf LSL urban headlight. Unplug from the wires, unscrew the old mounts and you are good to go. I cannot tell you 100% sure if the wires are long enough for a headlight that's farther out but even then it shouldn't be a big deal as long as you keep water proving in mind.
-
So I ordered the CR4501 from Airtech. Walt was really helpful. He recommended either the 4501 or the CR93 for the Zero, and he also gave me the measurements that I requested. The 4501 and the 93 were recommended mainly for their small size, and also for the fact that the lower halves of the full fairings could be easily pulled apart or moved closer together (to help with fitment).
There's a fairly lengthy wait of 3 to 4 weeks for the fabrication, but I'm fine with that. In the meantime, I'll be mentally designing the attachment to the steering stem (probably the most tricky part, since it's not a conventional steel frame).
-
Interesting choice/recommendation!
CR4501: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/hondaz/cr4501967teamhansen.htm (http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/hondaz/cr4501967teamhansen.htm)
CR93: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/hondaz/CR931962-63.html (http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/hondaz/CR931962-63.html)
-
It will take the CR4501 fairing a while to arrive, so I started to assemble the strut needed for the new headlight. It's just made of some aluminum channel stock and turnbuckles (I didn't want to do any welding or drill any holes in the frame). The end of the channel has an arc cut in it which is the same radius as the steering head. And I included a notch for that little keyway thingy. Surprisingly, the final result is quite rigid. However, I don't trust it to take all the bumps, so I'll also have to figure out some triangulation in the vertical plane to come up underneath the bottom triple-clamp.
-
Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.
I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.
I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.
-
Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.
I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.
I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.
So would that be aluminum to aluminum? (I know nothing about welding)
-
So I ordered the CR4501 from Airtech. Walt was really helpful. He recommended either the 4501 or the CR93 for the Zero, and he also gave me the measurements that I requested. The 4501 and the 93 were recommended mainly for their small size, and also for the fact that the lower halves of the full fairings could be easily pulled apart or moved closer together (to help with fitment).
There's a fairly lengthy wait of 3 to 4 weeks for the fabrication, but I'm fine with that. In the meantime, I'll be mentally designing the attachment to the steering stem (probably the most tricky part, since it's not a conventional steel frame).
Interesting. For real aero, I'd get one of these: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagefairingsdustbin.htm (http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagefairingsdustbin.htm) I've almost ordered the DBL1 myself a couple of times (my crash bars are 28" wide, and the angle looks close, so I'd expect to see if I could bend it out a bit or cut and patch. A vertical "stall strip" down the front appears to be beneficial with regards to side winds anyway.)
-
Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.
I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.
I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.
So would that be aluminum to aluminum? (I know nothing about welding)
yes. Just make the pieces fit nicely together, and keep them clean.
once you have it figured out, just have someone weld them up. Most professional welders have some kind of welding gear at home, and take jobs on the side for cash. Plus they make a good friend to have around. lol.
-
So I ordered the CR4501 from Airtech. Walt was really helpful. He recommended either the 4501 or the CR93 for the Zero, and he also gave me the measurements that I requested. The 4501 and the 93 were recommended mainly for their small size, and also for the fact that the lower halves of the full fairings could be easily pulled apart or moved closer together (to help with fitment).
There's a fairly lengthy wait of 3 to 4 weeks for the fabrication, but I'm fine with that. In the meantime, I'll be mentally designing the attachment to the steering stem (probably the most tricky part, since it's not a conventional steel frame).
Interesting. For real aero, I'd get one of these: http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagefairingsdustbin.htm (http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/vintage/vintagefairingsdustbin.htm) I've almost ordered the DBL1 myself a couple of times (my crash bars are 28" wide, and the angle looks close, so I'd expect to see if I could bend it out a bit or cut and patch. A vertical "stall strip" down the front appears to be beneficial with regards to side winds anyway.)
I'd be tempted, but unfortunately, the only dustbin that'll fit in my garage is the type you put dust in. :(
-
Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.
I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.
I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.
So would that be aluminum to aluminum? (I know nothing about welding)
yes. Just make the pieces fit nicely together, and keep them clean.
once you have it figured out, just have someone weld them up. Most professional welders have some kind of welding gear at home, and take jobs on the side for cash. Plus they make a good friend to have around. lol.
Are there any legal stipulations about obliterating all the important writing on the steering head, though?...not to mention the stamped VIN number?
-
Before I had a tig, I could only weld steel.
I tried making a fairing stay with solid steel pencil rod, but it was heavy and not totally solid.
I then remade it with 1 1/4" thin wall tube from a home supply store. Easy to to bend. Solid. Still had to weld, but worth it.
I wouldn't try to build one that bolted. Just make the parts, Mark them, and have someone tack them for you. Worth the extra effort to have it welded.
So would that be aluminum to aluminum? (I know nothing about welding)
yes. Just make the pieces fit nicely together, and keep them clean.
once you have it figured out, just have someone weld them up. Most professional welders have some kind of welding gear at home, and take jobs on the side for cash. Plus they make a good friend to have around. lol.
Are there any legal stipulations about obliterating all the important writing on the steering head, though?...not to mention the stamped VIN number?
YES.
If you're doing it correctly, you shouldn't be effecting the VIN on the steering.
The stay should still bolt on, but the stay itself should be welded into one piece.
The "usual" way is a single two hole bracket welded to the steering head, and then the stay bolts to that.
-
So I added some more triangulation to the headlight bracket. Now it's very sturdy (I'm guessing that I could easily hang 30 pounds or more off of the front extension). The horizontal cross-piece will also be used to attach to the side of the fairing (and, of course, some more attachment points both up top and down below). The white thing is a chunk of teflon from Lee Valley, and the small bolts extend into it from the top at least an inch or more.
The fairing and windshield arrive tomorrow (supposedly) from fedex (anything but UPS, in my books), so I'm a bit excited. I believe it's the same as this unit:
http://petrolicious.com/honda-rc166 (http://petrolicious.com/honda-rc166)
-
As a lighter alternative to the two adjustable hooks I'm thinking you can use a metal band (gear clamp?), the heavy duty kind for securing plumbing? Just cut/drill a slot on the sides of the front piece of aluminum close to the end where it makes contact with the steering column, pass the metal band through there, and wrap around the steering column? Or instead of drilling, use a bolt like you have, but instead of sideways, have it vertical and use both ends of it (above and below the aluminum piece) to pull with one band each towards the steering column?
I'm thinking like these, but perhaps heavier duty, maybe a pair?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-Galvanized-Steel-Worm-Gear-Clamp-MC4HD/203626508?fbtLinkClicked=1465954177901 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-Galvanized-Steel-Worm-Gear-Clamp-MC4HD/203626508?fbtLinkClicked=1465954177901)|203626509
EDIT. Now that I look at your photos, there might not be space for the bands on the rear side of the steering column...
-
As a lighter alternative to the two adjustable hooks I'm thinking you can use a metal band (gear clamp?), the heavy duty kind for securing plumbing? Just cut/drill a slot on the sides of the front piece of aluminum close to the end where it makes contact with the steering column, pass the metal band through there, and wrap around the steering column? Or instead of drilling, use a bolt like you have, but instead of sideways, have it vertical and use both ends of it (above and below the aluminum piece) to pull with one band each towards the steering column?
I'm thinking like these, but perhaps heavier duty, maybe a pair?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-Galvanized-Steel-Worm-Gear-Clamp-MC4HD/203626508?fbtLinkClicked=1465954177901 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-Galvanized-Steel-Worm-Gear-Clamp-MC4HD/203626508?fbtLinkClicked=1465954177901)|203626509
EDIT. Now that I look at your photos, there might not be space for the bands on the rear side of the steering column...
Thanks Kocho. There are probably quite a few ways to skin this cat. At the back end of the steering column though, the space is extremely limited. A heavy duty "jubilee clamp" (as the English call it) might not even fit.
-
Yup! I'm very interested to see how your project turns out. Another benefit of such mounting system is that it might make it possible to move the windscreen further forward than it can be mounted now. For tall folks like me, as it is I don't have enough space to duck properly behind the screen...
-
Looks like Terry and Vetter, just welded a bracket to mount the fairing in one place at the head tube and 2 places on the bottom of the frame.
(http://www.craigvetter.com/images/2013-streamliner-images/2013-Chap%2064-Hershner/Top-and-bottom-mount032-web.jpg)
(http://www.craigvetter.com/images/2013-streamliner-images/2013-Chap-66-Hershner-tail/Finished-tail057-web.jpg)
http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/2013%20Streamliner/2013-vetter-streamliner-Hershner-p64.html (http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/2013%20Streamliner/2013-vetter-streamliner-Hershner-p64.html)
-
So far, so good. I think Walt at Airtech was right when he guessed that the CR4501 would be the closest fit...even though the Zero is a bit wider than the single cylinder, 60's vintage Hondas that it was made for.
I've got 8 attachment points, so it's fairly solid. Took it out on the highway today. It's not bad for reducing the buffeting, but I now need to do something about the seat, so that I can slide further back (either a Corbin or something homemade, I guess). I also need some actual clip-ons (the clubmans are a bit too wide), as well as some round front turn signal lights (the triangles clash, in my opinion). And, of course, a good paint job (solid yellow, but I haven't decided on decals yet).
-
And here's a photo of the headlight brackets.
PS. if the mirrors on the previous post look a little wonky, it's because I forgot to extend them...they're shown in storage, or lane splitting mode).
-
That looks great! How much space is there for your legs to tuck behind?
-
That looks great! How much space is there for your legs to tuck behind?
Not much space at all (maybe 3" to 4"). HOwever, since I don't have rear-set foot pegs, I had to cut off the back section. There is a lot of flex in the unit, so if the back section was still there, the space might be increased to 4" to 5". I think those early small Hondas must have been very skinny.
As it is, however, the fairing nicely hides the boxy-looking battery.
-
I'm wondering now if I should install a home-made cooling duct or two in the same place as the originals. It wouldn't be too difficult. But should I just do it on the left side? On the 2013 S, the right side is somewhat blocked by thick wiring, whereas the left side has a semi-circular hole punched out of the battery cover (seemingly to facilitate air movement). So it looks like Zero designed the cooling mainly to come from the left side.
-
Hey, quixotic, how do you like the airtech from a qualitym and weight point of view?
-
I'd suggest chopping the turn signals and replacing them with LED strips that are flush with the fairing.
-
Hey, quixotic, how do you like the airtech from a qualitym and weight point of view?
They don't have the quality of a Parabellum fairing. But then they don't have the weight, either. And the Airtechs come in all those old and cool looking designs. I think quality on a fairing relates a lot to how many attachment points there are to the bike. That affects the rigidity.
-
I'd suggest chopping the turn signals and replacing them with LED strips that are flush with the fairing.
Good idea, but it's too late for me. I've already put in some Drag Specialty signal lights. Two different wattages (8w and 23w), so I wired up the 23w filament. (Very bright!)
-
Here's the latest. I added turn signals by Drag Specialties. Gives a choice of 8w or 23w (stock is 10w, if I recall).
I still need to get some actual clip-ons. I suspect they'll be Speedymoto with 2" risers. Will be getting some yellow vinyl to replace the burgundy leather where the seat has to transition into the absent fake tank. And, at some point, a Corbin seat with yellow piping. And as for the indents ("oil cooler vents" according to Airtech), I may try to incorporate them into cooling vents that would extend back to the motor.
-
So I started getting nervous about that "breastplate" that stretches across to the two sides of the fairing. Also, the lower steering stem brackets. They're a tad close to the front fender, so if I have to make a sudden stop at the same time as I run over a pothole, the fender might smash into the fairing brackets and breastplate.
Therefore, I got out the 1/8" 3-ply plywood again and made another plate, but with a curve in it (and also with a little peephole, so I can see the battery lights). I also re-positioned the aluminum angled brackets so that they face upwards (and give an extra half inch of spacing between them and fender). And I painted them. At some point, the fender might still smash into them, but it's slightly less likely now.
-
I think quality on a fairing relates a lot to how many attachment points there are to the bike. That affects the rigidity.
That is certainly food for thought. Thanks for sharing your updates all around - the bike certainly looks good!
-
I think quality on a fairing relates a lot to how many attachment points there are to the bike. That affects the rigidity.
That is certainly food for thought. Thanks for sharing your updates all around - the bike certainly looks good!
Thanks Brian. Much appreciated.
-
I finally got around to getting some decent photos of the fairing and bike. Next on the project list (but way off in 2017 some time) will be something to utilize those indents for a motor cooling vent system.
-
Looks neat.
I'm planning to do something similar with a more tourish kind of fairing.
-
Well, I finally got around to installing the vents. I used what I elsewhere called on this site "poor man's fiberglass" (sheet-rock paste, white glue, blue shop towels, and rust paint and varathane for sealing). The intake plate is 1/8", 3-ply plywood.
-
...and a rear view.
(the various images on the tank area were pasted on with weather-proof Mod-Podge)
-
Nice hack! What was the mold or form you sculpted around? Was it like paper mache?
-
Nice hack! What was the mold or form you sculpted around? Was it like paper mache?
Thanks Brian. I made the form from a big chunk of styrofoam I got from Michael's craft store. Easy to cut with a bread knife or a drywall saw, etc, and then smooth down with a rasp. Then I wrapped it with saran wrap and bit of tape so the paper mache wouldn't stick. Not quite paper mache, but a heftier version made from drywall cement, white glue and blue shop rags that come in rolls like paper towels. This page, about 1/3 of the way down has the recipe, but I think I use a bit more water than she does: http://www.ultimatepapermache.com/paper-mache-recipes (http://www.ultimatepapermache.com/paper-mache-recipes)
I'd estimate that this formulation is in the ball-park with fibreglass for strength. Probably 3/16" thick of the former equals about 1/8" thick of the latter for cross-sectional strength. And it's MUCH easier to work with.
-
Nice hack! What was the mold or form you sculpted around? Was it like paper mache?
Thanks Brian. I made the form from a big chunk of styrofoam I got from Michael's craft store. Easy to cut with a bread knife or a drywall saw, etc, and then smooth down with a rasp. Then I wrapped it with saran wrap and bit of tape so the paper mache wouldn't stick. Not quite paper mache, but a heftier version made from drywall cement, white glue and blue shop rags that come in rolls like paper towels. This page, about 1/3 of the way down has the recipe, but I think I use a bit more water than she does: http://www.ultimatepapermache.com/paper-mache-recipes (http://www.ultimatepapermache.com/paper-mache-recipes)
I'd estimate that this formulation is in the ball-park with fibreglass for strength. Probably 3/16" thick of the former equals about 1/8" thick of the latter for cross-sectional strength. And it's MUCH easier to work with.
Yeah, nice hack.
I'm thinking of doing something with gesso or bondo over styrofoam. Can get good surfaces that way. Did you have any trouble getting the left and right to match? (I could see myself worrying the right and left, back and forth, end up cutting away too much...)
So I'm thinking something with a CNC router might be a better starting point for me, and gesso or bondo on that, and then use that as a mold.