ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Burton on October 26, 2015, 04:29:04 AM
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I want to know where to channel my energy based off what the community wants. This could be documentation, guides, diagrams, video, part lists, or all of the above. What I really want to know though is topics and specifics.
Update: I no longer have a MY13 modified SR and now own a MY17 DSR. I have changed the list to reflect this change.
YET TO DO:
Here are some projects I have on my list of things to do: (in no particular order)
1) Install Vetter fairing on front of bike with the DSR mockup he provided as a guide (ie stock handle bar height)
2) Create DSR mockup "tail" for Vetter setup
7) Custom Kamm tail for Vetter setup.
8) Possibly cutting frame "horns" (where the controller is bolted to) to lower seating for full streamlining
10) Install reverse switch on MY17 DSR
12) Wire Diagram for MY17 DSR
15) Install Vetter turret on MY17 DSR (will require a different mounting solution)
16) Install 3 SC2 chargers on bottom pan of MY17 DSR with 2 J1772 outlets.
17) Install powertank to extend range on MY17 DSR (future)
DONE: (links below)
3) Reinstall my motor (or new motor) when I get the word from Harlan who is checking it out for me. If it is a new motor will likely require encoder calibration and or installation.
4) Clean up wires on top of my battery (my birds nest is on top of battery not behind it) (removed MY13)
5) Custom tank modifications for #4 and possibly other stuff *wink wink nudge nudge say no more* (removed MY13)
6) Install Brandon's quick tank charger to charge through the controller on 14-50 / J1772 / 15-20 (I haven't purchased it yet since I am waiting on motor news) (removed MY13, purchased and installed into MY17 tank)
9) Install Cycle Analyst for better data collection (will be needed when I start modifying tail / nose of Vetterized bike)
11) Install 3 pin out for IXXAT on MY17 DSR
13) Install 5.75" bucket on MY17 DSR
14) Create brackets for 5.75" bucket which use stock mounting
18) Install Skene design IQ160TS on MY17 DSR
19) Install Cycle Analyst HC on MY17 DSR
20) MY17+ OBDII 3.3vdc power install
If something you want done isn't on this list suggest it. Just understand my limitation is my bike, a 2013 S / DS / SR (yeah it has a size 6 controller), so I can't do everything you might want to see (less you want to provide a bike for the process). If you think I didn't do a good job of something in the past and want to see more just let me know. I am open for anything if there is enough interest.
For those who are not familiar with my works so far.
Unknown Wire Loom Diagram (in progress):
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7599.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7599.0)
2013 S / DS Wire diagram:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3603.msg20961#msg20961 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3603.msg20961#msg20961)
2013 S modified racing motor swap to 2014 SR motor (image heavy)
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5218.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5218.0)
Clutch "foot brake" install (following evtricity guide) :
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4357.msg27950#msg27950 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4357.msg27950#msg27950)
Most Pin documentation / parts list:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3987.msg25494#msg25494 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3987.msg25494#msg25494)
Y slitter pin documentation / parts list:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4603.msg30589#msg30589 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4603.msg30589#msg30589)
RSP Quick charging array and accessories:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3987.msg24583#msg24583 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3987.msg24583#msg24583)
DIY Charger covers (large project boxes):
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4576.msg30222#msg30222 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4576.msg30222#msg30222)
Replacing bearings on my motor (twice now :/ ):
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4577.msg30227#msg30227 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4577.msg30227#msg30227)
12v Always on pwr srouce :
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3766.msg22451#msg22451 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3766.msg22451#msg22451)
Vetter streamlining project (in progress):
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3618.msg21140#msg21140 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3618.msg21140#msg21140)
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4855.msg32953#msg32953 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4855.msg32953#msg32953) (image heavy)
Under $50 RFID ignition mod:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4067.msg25338#msg25338 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4067.msg25338#msg25338)
Controller cover to keep controller warm during winter:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4274.msg27778#msg27778 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4274.msg27778#msg27778)
2015 AMA State of Electrics Panel:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4856.msg32954#msg32954 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4856.msg32954#msg32954)
2015 AMA Craig Vetter talking about streamlining:
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4862.msg32970#msg32970 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=4862.msg32970#msg32970)
Installation of Cycle Analyst HC model with .25mOhm Shunt: MY13 bike
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3176.msg56253#msg56253 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=3176.msg56253#msg56253)
MY17+ OBDII 3.3vdc power supply for diginow dongle
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7908.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7908.0)
Install IXXAT 3 pin connector
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7909 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7909)
Create brackets for 5.75" bucket which use stock mounting (v1)
http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7943.0 (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=7943.0)
Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/callmeburton (http://www.youtube.com/callmeburton)
Flickr:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/71805301@N05/ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/71805301@N05/)
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It's all good! even if I have the 2012 DS
Thanks
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documentation, guides, diagrams, video, part lists, or all of the above
(Ever considered writing a haynes manual...? ;) )
The above is roughly in the right order in my opinion. Certainly the wire diagram you did has been invaluable to me in the past.
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documentation, guides, diagrams, video, part lists, or all of the above
(Ever considered writing a haynes manual...? ;) )
The above is roughly in the right order in my opinion. Certainly the wire diagram you did has been invaluable to me in the past.
I wish I was so knowledgeable to be able to write such a manual ;) Was there anything specifically you were interested in seeing in such a manual?
The list is not ordered for some parts and some things might be done before others; like in the case of the CA2.2+ installation.
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I think the last important addition to the wiring diagram might be to label a few more of the connectors, or have a reference diagram to where they physically are on the bike.
Other than that, your vids are probably the next most useful thing you can make, though might I suggest you shoot from a tripod, as frame stability is pretty important when as a watcher, you are trying to make out what is what on your bike. :)
Don't underestimate the value of what you have done so far, I alone have fixed a minor fault on my bike thanks to your videos and wiring diagram, which probably saved me a bit of time and money at the dealers. For that I am very grateful to you.
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Justin, thanks for your input.
I have also come to the conclusion the wire diagram can indeed be better with some of the things you suggested. I just haven't had a time to overhaul the whole thing to better illustrate what is going on with the wire harness :)
That level of change would bump it up to 1.3 from 1.2 as it would be a very big change and thus take a bit of time to complete. But I am willing to do this in the future.
As for the video, yes ... much of the stuff I have isn't even close to professional ... which is why I asked if I should go back on several projects and make better content for them ;) I would likely need to get another gopro so I can have one on a tripod / stationary location and one I can physically move around with me less I switch to voice over for my videos. Several of the videos I have posted were done with my ipad as well.
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Wow Burton, I had no idea you had done so much! I've subscribed to your YouTube channel and I'll look forward to watching some of your videos.
Bearing in mind that I'm not an owner (yet), so my opinion should probably not count so much, I am very interested in the quick charging solution.
I should be more interested in the fairing but I can't see myself going to such lengths to modify a bike. I am very aware of the difference a fairing can make though, so it would be a good thing to follow.
It's great that you can find the time and energy to do all of this, even if it is a hobby for you. Thanks!
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I think the last important addition to the wiring diagram might be to label a few more of the connectors, or have a reference diagram to where they physically are on the bike.
Other than that, your vids are probably the next most useful thing you can make, though might I suggest you shoot from a tripod, as frame stability is pretty important when as a watcher, you are trying to make out what is what on your bike. :)
+1 to having a physical guide to the bike. Knowing what is what on sight when taking off the panels is probably the main obstacle to tinkering.
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Paid for a NIB 2014 SR motor which will be shipping out this week to replace my race modified motor ... should I assume there is interest for me to document some of the process of installation?
It isn't as hard as you would think to install.
1) flip control around
2) switch terminal wires from battery box
3) Install motor / pulley / belt as normal
4) calibrate TDC for the encoder in DVT
5) ride :D
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Absolutely! ;D
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7) Custom Kamm tail for Vetter setup.
This is literally on my mind right now; I have a satisfactory aerodynamic windscreen (http://electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=5525) that I'm tuning which makes a Kamm tail the next challenge in the benefit/(cost+risk) ratio.
I'm aiming for a cheap outlay, planning on strapping a waterproof duffle bag in the passenger seat, maybe covering it smoothly, and not trying to relocate or replace turn signals (although my brake lights will easily move to my favorite top case). Maybe let's cite Loop the Lake (https://www.facebook.com/LooptheLake2/)'s build which admittedly starts from a Vetter backrest form.
I may or may not use the OEM side racks as a lateral framing for the tail; currently my 2013 bike has the racks but not the DSR.
I may find that a front fairing (Airtech dustbin or Vetter) installation is easier in some way, but I'm still taking measurements and estimating mount plans before deciding that, because I find that to be a great deal riskier. I have a welder in mind to handle work in that area since my training is rudimentary.
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I talked to the guys who sell the UB1 and those dustbin fairings. They said the angle of the UB1 was made to match older bikes so it is likely not the same angle as ours.
He also said their fairings are rather light and the UB1 itself can hold them up but people make other mounts to keep it more stable.
Right now there are several ways I could go with mounting the vetter fairing. Vetter himself would like to see me use a plate method and "hang" everything off the resulting side plates (that includes the tail / seat etc.)
The UB1 seems to make sense and I can weld something like that pretty easily. I would also create brackets which come out from the two bolts on the bottom of the frame holding the battery in place for extra stability down low. If I wanted to get even more ridged I could run some aluminum slotted stock through the front of the frame, attach it with U-bolts, then attach it to the side.
Alan said whatever I do to make the sides as stable as possible where the bike would contact the ground if it were dropped. He said over engineer it as much as possible.
The plate idea would be rather over engineered if I 90'ed of the plates with form fitting loops matching the slope of the side walls. This if using 3/8" plates which have as many holes as they can handle to keep weight down but not violate their integrity. (those will be fun to mill out for sure)
I have some mock plates I am building in really thick 1/2"+ marine plywood ... not too sure how comfortable I am with bolting them on though since the two main bolts up front are the battery bolts. And while I have already bought longer bolts to replace the ones currently in there I am not sure if moving the pressure 1/2" from the frame for that bolt is a wise idea yet ... which would mean doing a mock-up in 3/8" plywood but NOT actually field testing it as it would likely be too weak.
All that said ... I have a 46lt top case which does its job pretty well (keeping people off my butt and storing stuff)
Any "good" tail you create really needs to be wider than you are so the air passing over you and the gap can reattach to the airfoil. I have a feeling though even a thinner shorter creation would still help a bit if installed. An easy way to confirm this would be to make some type of mounting bracket on the back of your bike and attach insulation foam mock-ups which have been shaped and re-enforced then go for a ride.
If you make them right you can fiberglass right over them as a plug and have a one-off tail ;)
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I talked to the guys who sell the UB1 and those dustbin fairings. They said the angle of the UB1 was made to match older bikes so it is likely not the same angle as ours.
I'd like to know that angle; are we talking about the rake angle?
He also said their fairings are rather light and the UB1 itself can hold them up but people make other mounts to keep it more stable.
Okay, that's encouraging in a way.
Right now there are several ways I could go with mounting the vetter fairing. Vetter himself would like to see me use a plate method and "hang" everything off the resulting side plates (that includes the tail / seat etc.)
The UB1 seems to make sense and I can weld something like that pretty easily.
There's clearly a big difference in what you are prepared to do compared to most people. You gloss over welding and metal structure fabrication as not worth discussing, when for me that'd be most of the focus. I don't think you appreciate how much I'd love not to have to custom fabricate anything; it represents a significant investment in training, equipment, and time, and the risk associated with designing and implementing one's own strategy.
So, for me, I'd rather know how to make the UB1 work and why or why not in detail.
I would also create brackets which come out from the two bolts on the bottom of the frame holding the battery in place for extra stability down low.
The bolts in which position? Be specific.
If I wanted to get even more rigid, I could run some aluminum slotted stock through the front of the frame, attach it with U-bolts, then attach it to the side.
I'm having trouble visualizing this. I didn't think there was enough gap to do this sort of thing. We're talking about right-angle "L" stock? Which position would you run it through? Tank area above the battery? How far forward? The 2015/16 models have a brake fluid reservoir up forward where there used to be significant empty space, so it's not clear. The DS also doesn't have the clearance between the front of the frame and the wheel that the S has.
Alan said whatever I do to make the sides as stable as possible where the bike would contact the ground if it were dropped. He said over engineer it as much as possible.
Yes, that seems sensible.
The plate idea would be rather over engineered if I 90'ed of the plates with form fitting loops matching the slope of the side walls. This if using 3/8" plates which have as many holes as they can handle to keep weight down but not violate their integrity. (those will be fun to mill out for sure)
I have some mock plates I am building in really thick 1/2"+ marine plywood ... not too sure how comfortable I am with bolting them on though since the two main bolts up front are the battery bolts. And while I have already bought longer bolts to replace the ones currently in there I am not sure if moving the pressure 1/2" from the frame for that bolt is a wise idea yet ... which would mean doing a mock-up in 3/8" plywood but NOT actually field testing it as it would likely be too weak.
I can't follow this at all; it just doesn't read clearly enough for me to tell what you mean. If you could provide a drawing or two, even at a back-of-napkin level of detail, it would be easier to respond to or iterate on.
All that said ... I have a 46lt top case which does its job pretty well (keeping people off my butt and storing stuff)
Any "good" tail you create really needs to be wider than you are so the air passing over you and the gap can reattach to the airfoil. I have a feeling though even a thinner shorter creation would still help a bit if installed. An easy way to confirm this would be to make some type of mounting bracket on the back of your bike and attach insulation foam mock-ups which have been shaped and re-enforced then go for a ride.
If you make them right you can fiberglass right over them as a plug and have a one-off tail ;)
"some type of mounting bracket" sounds like shop talk for the academic motto "exercise left for the reader", which is not helpful.
In any case, anyone who wants to travel doesn't need to meet anyone's approval other than getting down the road safely and paying off in efficiency proportional to the effort put into it.
The way I see it, you're either making the project for your own entertainment as a builder, in which case you don't need to communicate with others, or you're making something practical and reproducible, in which case the pragmatism of being able to help others reproduce the results without demanding that they come up with drawings and train as a welder from scratch. Try to be clear about which you're doing and act that way.
Personally, I'm in the pragmatism camp, tired of seeing electric motorcycle trips be one-off vehicles only good for publicity stunts.
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Brian I will try to get you some more detail over the weekend when I have some off time. :D
Haven't been on the board in a while because I have been active in other parts of my life outside modding my bike but I am going to start back up soon so new content should be on its way in the coming months.
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I appreciate it! It so happens that I'm learning the layout of DSR wiring while troubleshooting an inoperative 12V accessory circuit.
I did eventually work out all the details of what you meant, but it took a while longer than just reading and digesting a forum post.
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I appreciate it! It so happens that I'm learning the layout of DSR wiring while troubleshooting an inoperative 12V accessory circuit.
I did eventually work out all the details of what you meant, but it took a while longer than just reading and digesting a forum post.
Oh? You willing to take your bike out of service for a couple days to tear apart the wire loom, document it, send me the results, and put it back together :D lol
I am open to making diagrams for other bikes if someone provides me the information in a format I can use, or their bike if they live locally.
The stuff I described is a little odd and it took Vetter a couple minutes to better explain his ideas to me as well so I completely understand it taking a bit to get what I was talking about but I will try to get some drawings up anyway.
Once I get my "work space(s)" clear again I am going to start busting out projects left and right and likely taking on other projects as well while expanding my skill-set(s).
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I appreciate it! It so happens that I'm learning the layout of DSR wiring while troubleshooting an inoperative 12V accessory circuit.
I did eventually work out all the details of what you meant, but it took a while longer than just reading and digesting a forum post.
Oh? You willing to take your bike out of service for a couple days to tear apart the wire loom, document it, send me the results, and put it back together :D lol
Once I'm done with my first electric motorcycle trips, yes! Right now, I'm being pragmatic and trying to manipulate as little as possible. Honestly, not a lot has changed aside from accounting for ABS across the system, and a lot of repositioning under the seat which the owners manual did provide a basic layout for.
I am open to making diagrams for other bikes if someone provides me the information in a format I can use, or their bike if they live locally.
The stuff I described is a little odd and it took Vetter a couple minutes to better explain his ideas to me as well so I completely understand it taking a bit to get what I was talking about but I will try to get some drawings up anyway.
Once I get my "work space(s)" clear again I am going to start busting out projects left and right and likely taking on other projects as well while expanding my skill-set(s).
I'll see what I can do; I can certainly diagram or provide highly structured notes to help build/modify a diagram (having consumed and produced enough technical writing in engineering and then software over the years).
Any clarification will be appreciated, thank you.
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Updated to reflect ownership of a MY17 DSR now and add some new future mods ;)
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Updated to reflect some of the more recent projects I have completed with the MY17 bike. Some of the "TO DO" items are actually in the process of being done now (no hints as to which) so expect updates in the future ;)
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Glad you're back, Burton!
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Thank you for the information, Scotchman.
Looks like Altas already come with these 3.3kW Elcon units. They are packaged in a separate plastic Pelican case and cost $900 when bought with the bike. Maybe this is why DigiNow was not interested in making chargers for us.
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wow