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Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: evtricity on November 17, 2014, 04:03:34 AM
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Some ideas for Zero in producing their 2016 SR model and entering the sports bike market.
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That's VERY attractive, far superior to my (stock) SR, but what blows me away is the air duct. How much work was that to construct, and how effective is it? Does it bind up or interfere with steering lock-to-lock?
I'm going to have to figure out how to do something like that on my bike, though I have a plexi windscreen rather than a fairing. I hit the overheating light again the other day, on a cool day, after ONE full-throttle run. That's just not adequate cooling.
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Ducting is very effective and the bike will not overheat at all with the ducting in place even riding on track at speeds up to 185kph. This required machining holes in the motor face plates to allow air entry and exit so that mod would not be for everyone.
Ducting connects to shortened RSV4 air inlet on RHS only of RSV4 fairing and is well clear of the forks and clip-ons.
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Nice.
The shredded rubber on the tyre edges is particularly revealing of good times. ;)
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Yep, need a new set of Sava MC50 Racing Soft tyres for this weekend's racing. Very good value for money tyre, they do a road version as well that will last a lot longer.
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Totally sweet! That's more like it!
I hope Zero starts to put some different designs out there. I would love to see a version like this, but also a cruiser version with a lower seat height. I have a friend who is short and he really wants to ride a Zero, but they are a bit high.
Also a fan of the ducting and the footpegs.
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I just looked again and realized that's a frame-mounted fairing. That makes dealing with the ductwork easier! No steering motion to worry about. Sounds like a lot more work overall though.
I was out looking at the plastic trim pieces on the sides of the battery pack of my bike earlier today, and it still seems like it would be really easy to bump them out two inches, put a scoop on front and transition it down to a good cross-section to blow lots of cooling air over the motor. Virtually no added weight, very little added frontal area (which would mostly be area hitting my legs anyhow, so maybe NO increase in drag), and it would have to be better than stock, which essentially provides no cooling air for the motor.
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From my experience when I removed the stock belly pan, charger and lower front fairing there was only a very small reduction in motor temperature (5-10 degrees C) despite their being a lot more air flow under the motor.
I would certainly try this first and see how you go. If you want to greatly reduce motor temperature you will need to get the hot air out or consider some liquid cooling option to cool the outer surface of the motor.
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That's a very impressive mod!
Congrat!
I see that the motor plate have small holes for the air output like you said but these are like small arc line on the larger diameter of the plate.
Witch motorcycle fairing are these coming from?
Doc
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I was out looking at the plastic trim pieces on the sides of the battery pack of my bike earlier today, and it still seems like it would be really easy to bump them out two inches, put a scoop on front and transition it down to a good cross-section to blow lots of cooling air over the motor.
Aw heck yeah. I'm learning Blender and I wonder how hard it'd be to 3D print something like that at Shapeways. When my SR gets here, I'll look at that.
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It's an Aprilia RSV4 track fairing with wider belly pan (split and 2 inch section added). Minor fibreglass changes to tail piece and LHS air intake. Tank and seat are from Honda CBR1000RR with custom brackets.
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Sweet mod! Does the fairing have an effect on range?
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Fairing definitely helps but more noticeably with top speed (now 185kph V 160 kph originally) and acceleration as I've only used the fairing while on the track. I'd say the fairing would add about 10-20% range on the road.
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Interesting that it helped with acceleration, I would have thought the added weight might have a negative effect. you have a weight estimate including the duct?
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Nice custom gear on the rear how many teeth? What do you have in the front?
Also. Rear brake lever??? I love it, been waiting to see one just a matter of time before I do that to mine now
What kind of master did you use?
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Someone already posted this in another thread somewhere, but here is a link to the build / progress page for this bike.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/zero-sr-race-mods-124073.html (http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/zero-sr-race-mods-124073.html)
I have a feeling the next mod is going to be some new triple-clamps to get some race bike front end on there.
-ryan
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Interesting that it helped with acceleration, I would have thought the added weight might have a negative effect. you have a weight estimate including the duct?
I never actually weighed the fairing or the duct. The fairing is all fibreglass and would weigh max 10kg. The ducting is fibreglass at the inlet and then very light aluminium pipe and would weigh less than 2kg I expect. At low speeds, under 60kph the fairing weight may outweigh the aero benefit for acceleration but at track speeds aero is more important than weight.
The bike with fairing weighs approx 175kg as we made savings by:
- removing the onboard charger
- replacing the stock tail with RSV4 tail
- removing the belly pan and low front and side fairings
- removing the lights and indicators
- removing the rear fender/licence plate holder
- replacing the top fork triple clamps
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Nice custom gear on the rear how many teeth? What do you have in the front?
Also. Rear brake lever??? I love it, been waiting to see one just a matter of time before I do that to mine now
What kind of master did you use?
The gear ratio is 15 tooth on the front and 58 tooth custom sprocket on the rear, compared to the stock 30 front and 132 rear. This provides a 14% higher gear ratio, reducing acceleration but taking top speed to 185kph. The chain drive also provides a lot more flexibility to change ratios in the future as Zero does not support any other gear combination on the SR due to its high torque and narrow belt.
Well spotted on the left hand rear brake ;) The left/rear master cylinder / lever is from a Vectrix.
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Someone already posted this in another thread somewhere, but here is a link to the build / progress page for this bike.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/zero-sr-race-mods-124073.html (http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/zero-sr-race-mods-124073.html)
I have a feeling the next mod is going to be some new triple-clamps to get some race bike front end on there.
-ryan
Actually we did make a new top triple clamp (mate has a CNC machine) as the bars were too high as stock for track / fairing setup. Added a set of 50mm clip-ons also with some better grips (Pro Grip Duo Density 717 Grips) which are more like a road bike grip than the stock MX style grips.
Revalved the suspension front and rear which improved the dampening immensely and will add a stiffer rear spring for the track. No doubt other suspension (Ohlins etc) would be better but now it's at least on par with the Showa suspension coming in 2015.