ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: STICKY on March 31, 2026, 11:47:19 AM
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Hi Energica/Experia community,
I was doing some cleaning and chain maintenance when I noticed some pulsing/lurching/huffing, etc, of the chain drive. I took two videos with sound, but it doesn't look like I' can attach them to this post.
Video 0710 copy. My Experia is in Reverse and it starts to make the lurching sound accompanied by visible chain pattern-slowing at less than 6 MPH.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/189324978@N05/shares/09Kc6w937t
Video 0711 copy. My Experia is in Crawl. It takes a little longer to get the same effect, but it does happen at less than 4 MPH.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/189324978@N05/shares/R6760mW0P3
I hope you'll review the vids and forgive my ignorance. I'm normally pretty good at researching, but I'm getting stuck as I don't know correct terminology.
My chain tension does seem to be within or near the 35 mm, but don't let that deter you. Thanks in advance for any insights or advice!
[The photo is was taken same time as vids]
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That's perfectly normal.
you had the tire jacked up to spin the wheel to do your chain maintenance then spun it.
Your traction control sees one tire spinning faster than the other and says WTF!! and cuts back power. It does not know you are cleaning your chain, that's your TC kicking in.
Turn your TC all the way off and it won't do that anymore.
Aaron
Edit: let me add, that's also helpful for when it comes time to lube it up, it keeps the chain spinning at a fairly slow speed for you to spray the lube on as it's going roundy roundy w/o splashing it all over the place. ill do that too with the cleaning brush if i have help, one hold the throttle at that low speed and spray while i hold the brush with both hands around the chain to scrub it. have something under to catch the liquid coming off, i use burlap bags from coffee beans. you can use this same method to put lube back on too although can manage that one handed.
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I think smithy has the solution for you……belt drive conversion!
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Aaron nailed it.
I see the same effect with my Ribelle.
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Thanks Specter/Aaron! I'm grateful for the explanation after saying it's normal. And thanks for the attention and seconding, Grauteufel and jotjotde.
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Thanks Specter/Aaron! I'm grateful for the explanation after saying it's normal. And thanks for the attention and seconding, Grauteufel and jotjotde.
I can 2nd, 3rd and 4th what the other guys have said....the T/C on these things is very quick and when there's no load on the wheel..it just cuts in and out very quickly giving the "hunting" you're seeing, using the cruise control is worse....turn the T/C off in the Custom menu and you'll be golden, I have my Experia up on a paddock stand often to check my belt for stone damage and adjust the tension etc...same thing happens.
Smithy.
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I think smithy has the solution for you……belt drive conversion!
That won't fix the T/C hunting though...but I like your thinking..! 8)
Smithy.
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Tried to post this Monday but the forum went down...
Totally normal.
Reverse and slow forward modes are RPM limited. With no resistance (due to the rear wheel being off the ground) the motor quickly reaches the RPM limit causing the controller to cut power. When the power is cut the motor slows down, when the RPM drops below the max value the controller energizes the motor resulting in the RPM hitting the limit again. That cycle repeating creates the pulsing behavior. When the rear wheel is on the ground and you put the bike into reverse the RPM change of the motor is slower, reducing this behavior. You can still feel a bit of an off and on power surge when going backwards. The max RPM in reverse is lower than in slow forward mode, this is why the pulsing occurs more often in that mode.
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Good Catch Demoni, I didn't catch / register he had the F/R going on, just that he was cranking on the throttle to spin the wheel. what I described was if he had it in normal mode, it'd do the same thing with the control cutting it out in normal too.
Either way, no matter what mode you have it in, slow or full drive mode, that pulsing is normal.
I do wish to add:
If you do wind it up in drive mode, you can kind of walk it up a bit before it kicks in but either way TC on or not in regular mode, be careful because it can spin it up very fast, and if you get caught up in that it could be bad, or if you got a sheet or blanket under it or something to catch your drippings and it gets caught up in the spinning wheel mechanism, that could be bad too. Make sure if you are going to give it a good whirl, nothing is posed to jump up in your wheel / chain assy.
Not to mention it will fling shit all over the place.
The good side is, as some have mentioned that they don't like how the chain splatters crap all over them, hence, why smitty did his belt mod. If you have it jacked up, turn the TC off and let it rip on the chock, you can spin it up and fling all the excess lube off while you are NOT on the bike catching everything with your back, and can catch most of it with the sheet / grass / etc, so when you DO go riding, what is left to find you, is minimal. It's another easy way to spin the excess lube off your chain after your maintenance.
aaron
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I know, lubing chains is a somewhat emotional issue for some people, similar to tires and oil 8)
Nevertheless, it sometimes helps to understand what chain lubing should do and what it is definitely not doing.
Refer to the attached picture.
No chain lube in the world will go underneath the O-rings (or X-rings or whatever shape they are) and replace the lube put in there in the factory.
Because these O-rings hinder the original lube to come out, they also hinder fresh lube to go in.
This lube will deteriorate over time due to stress (hydrocarbons cracking) and hydration (water molecules diffusing through the O-rings). By these mechanisms the lube is increasingly not functioning properly anymore. On some point steel rubs on steel and from then on it is a steep downhill path. The chain is lengthening, wearing out the sprocket and chainwheel which is also stressing the chain even more.
By lubing the chain you can only try to get fresh lube under the rolls (marked red in the picture). For that you need lube with penetrating characteristics.
Thick chain grease is not doing this, it might help to protect the lube under the rolls and saves the outer appearance of the chain against corrosion, but that's it.
So, excess lube on the chain only makes your bike dirty and your wallet empty.
Currently I am at 102,000 km with the bike and on my fourth chain (36,000 km), using dry lube chain spray which is simply spoken PTFE suspended in a penetrating liquid which evaporates, leaving the PTFE as a lubing film.
In my view spinning the wheel at high rpm while spraying the chain is not a good idea. I prefer turning the wheel by hand.
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Excellent explanation jotjotde. ;D
Agree with you too...I have a BMW S1000XR which can be hard on chains and sprockets....the current DID ZVMX chain has ~55,000km on it...I do have a home made electronic lube system on it though.
Smithy.
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Homemade lube system?? :o
Wow, I bow to your DIY capabilities :)
55,000 km with a chain it quite an achievement!
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I know, lubing chains is a somewhat emotional issue for some people, similar to tires and oil 8)
Nevertheless, it sometimes helps to understand what chain lubing should do and what it is definitely not doing.
Refer to the attached picture.
No chain lube in the world will go underneath the O-rings (or X-rings or whatever shape they are) and replace the lube put in there in the factory.
Because these O-rings hinder the original lube to come out, they also hinder fresh lube to go in.
This lube will deteriorate over time due to stress (hydrocarbons cracking) and hydration (water molecules diffusing through the O-rings). By these mechanisms the lube is increasingly not functioning properly anymore. On some point steel rubs on steel and from then on it is a steep downhill path. The chain is lengthening, wearing out the sprocket and chainwheel which is also stressing the chain even more.
By lubing the chain you can only try to get fresh lube under the rolls (marked red in the picture). For that you need lube with penetrating characteristics.
Thick chain grease is not doing this, it might help to protect the lube under the rolls and saves the outer appearance of the chain against corrosion, but that's it.
So, excess lube on the chain only makes your bike dirty and your wallet empty.
Currently I am at 102,000 km with the bike and on my fourth chain (36,000 km), using dry lube chain spray which is simply spoken PTFE suspended in a penetrating liquid which evaporates, leaving the PTFE as a lubing film.
In my view spinning the wheel at high rpm while spraying the chain is not a good idea. I prefer turning the wheel by hand.
For me regular oiling of a chain is mostly to keep the rust away. It keeps the outside of the O or X rings "wet". Thereby reducing friction between rubber and metal. It reduces oxidation of the rubber. It also reduces amount of fine dust articles that reaches the rubber where it meets the metal. This slows down wear by some degree.
An old trick to extend life of your chain is to clean it thoroughly with Benzine (Gas, Petrol) or Diesel. Put it in a pot with motor oil. Heat it to 80-90 degrees Celsius for half an hour or so. Let it cool down. This forces air and dirty grease past the seals when warming and draws fresh oil in when cooling. I doubt it will be very effective today, but some used to do this every year. Clean the pot and put back into the cupboard before the wife gets home. :)
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Homemade lube system?? :o
Wow, I bow to your DIY capabilities :)
55,000 km with a chain it quite an achievement!
It's quite simple really, I use a "normally closed" 12v solenoid valve wired into an "ignition on" power supply under the seat, so when the ignition is on the solenoid is open.....the solenoid valve is then connected to a small ~200ml reservior of chain saw oil, the solenoid is then connected to a Festo adjustable flow regulator downstream of the solenoid and finally down to the rear sprocket using 3mm polyurethane tubing....it's all gravity feed and only cost ~$30 Aussie sheckles to set-up. Took me three or four trips to work and back to fiind the sweet spot for the flow...but once set-up, it's trouble free and very effective. The 200ml container lasts a surprisingly long time....between 5-7000km or so.....I just top it up when required.
Circled in red in the pic is the "normally closed" 12v solenoid valve fitted to my '17 BMW S1000XR.
Smithy.
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@smithy: Amazing installation!
@T.S.Z: That reminds me of a special chain wax for bicycles which claims to reduce friction by 5 Watt ;D That's stuff you can only sell to triathletes ;)
https://absoluteblack.cc/graphenwax-worlds-best-hot-melt-wax-coating-for-chain
So, both of you more or less use a 'wet' approach - using oil to flush the dirt away and keep the rollers lubricated.
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Hi,
my first post here:
I´ve mounted a Berotec Lube System at my Experia. It works with a electronic timed Valve, there is a LED and a switch for "Rain-Mode" in the cockpit, a little switch for the timing and a applicator at the sprocket.
Greetings from Germany
Norbert
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Switch and LED
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Timer
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Applicator
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Nice neat installation you have there...Bear-Tiger. How many km on your Experia..??
I found my Experia liked to eat chains & sprockets, I'd had 3 sets in the ~40k km that they were fitted....before fitting the belt drive.
I was just a bit tired of the constant cleaning, adjustment & replacement etc...
Smithy.
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Nice neat installation you have there...Bear-Tiger. How many km on your Experia..??
I found my Experia liked to eat chains & sprockets, I'd had 3 sets in the ~40k km that they were fitted....before fitting the belt drive.
I was just a bit tired of the constant cleaning, adjustment & replacement etc...
Smithy.
IMO, for most bikes, I find belts superior to chains. Chains are a big hassle on motorcycles.
I used to fear belts snapping, but I think they have greatly improved in the last ten years or so.
When I changed the belt in my Zero SR, at just under 30,000 miles (48 km), I could not tell the used belt from the new.
I would like to do the same as you have done. Can you post a parts list and any possibly needed instructions?
I wonder if it can be done to my 2020 Esse Esse 9- too. It needs a chain around right now at 13,000 miles (21KM).
-Don- Auburn, CA
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Nice neat installation you have there...Bear-Tiger. How many km on your Experia..??
I found my Experia liked to eat chains & sprockets, I'd had 3 sets in the ~40k km that they were fitted....before fitting the belt drive.
I was just a bit tired of the constant cleaning, adjustment & replacement etc...
Smithy.
11500km on the Experia, i´ve bought it Ende of September 2024 used with 6200km. At this Time i hat to change Head stock bearings and Brakediscs. The Sprocket at the Rear Wheel ist now worn, i think, i have to change the Chain-Kit at 15-20.000 km.
That Part-List do you mean? For the Berotec? That´s a complete Set with all expect the two sides Aplicator. That costs extra. Mounting is a little work, instructions are in the Kit. I´ve done not enough photos for a detailed instruction, my english is also not good.
https://shop.berotec.de/kettenoeler-mofessor
https://shop.berotec.de/mofessor-doppelduese-gleichmaessiger-oelauftrag-antriebskette
Next Project is coming, i´m building a Center-Stand for the Experia.
Bear-Tiger
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@Bear-Tiger: In case you do not already know, the rear sprocket is the same as for a Benelli TRK 502, at least that works for a 525 pitch.
Inner diameter 76 mm, hole circle diameter 100 mm, hole diameter 10(-/+) mm. It's the spec for Marchesini rims.
Manufacturers are: AFAM, JT Sprockets, Supersprox, Esjot, Superlight.
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Thanks for this Information, i didnt know.
Chain an sprockets in 520 are in my starge for next change.
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I would like to do the same as you have done. Can you post a parts list and any possibly needed instructions?
I wonder if it can be done to my 2020 Esse Esse 9- too. It needs a chain around right now at 13,000 miles (21KM).
-Don- Auburn, CA
Hi Don,
I'll do a fairly detailed explanation on what is required soon.
Regards fitting a belt to the SS9/Rebelle/Ego...not possible unfortunately...the chain actually goes "through" the swingarm...getting a belt to do the same thing is as you know...not possible....unless a different swingarm is used. The Experia has a normal swingarm unlike the other three bikes.
Smithy.
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Hi Don,
I'll do a fairly detailed explanation on what is required soon.
Regards fitting a belt to the SS9/Rebelle/Ego...not possible unfortunately...the chain actually goes "through" the swingarm...getting a belt to do the same thing is as you know...not possible....unless a different swingarm is used. The Experia has a normal swingarm unlike the other three bikes.
Smithy.
OIC, I was just looking at my 2020 SS9- and my Experia swingarm. I really cannot tell much buy looking, but it didn't look any more difficult than on the Experia, but it's one of those things I will not know unless I try to do the job. t. I cannot tell if the swing arm can be lifted to make room for a belt, as on my 2017 Zeros.
Perhaps the 2020 SS9- is different than the Plus bikes?
-Don- Auburn, CA
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OIC, I was just looking at my 2020 SS9- and my Experia swingarm. I really cannot tell much buy looking, but it didn't look any more difficult than on the Experia, but it's one of those things I will not know unless I try to do the job. t. I cannot tell if the swing arm can be lifted to make room for a belt, as on my 2017 Zeros.
Perhaps the 2020 SS9- is different than the Plus bikes?
-Don- Auburn, CA
As far as I'm aware, the early SS9 swingarm is the same as the later ones. Pic below is of a 2018 model. As you can see, the chain goes through the swingarm.
Smithy.
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As far as I'm aware, the early SS9 swingarm is the same as the later ones. Pic below is of a 2018 model. As you can see, the chain goes through the swingarm.Smithy.
Same with my Zeros with their belts.
But can the SS9- swingarm be moved out of the way as it is on Zeros to make room for a belt and then put back? While a little more work, I do not see why it's a big problem if the swingarm pivot point goes thru the chain / belt.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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As far as I'm aware, the early SS9 swingarm is the same as the later ones. Pic below is of a 2018 model. As you can see, the chain goes through the swingarm.Smithy.
Same with my Zeros with their belts.
But can the SS9- swingarm be moved out of the way as it is on Zeros to make room for a belt and then put back? While a little more work, I do not see why it's a big problem if the swingarm pivot point goes thru the chain / belt.
-Don- Auburn, CA
Nope....unless you cut the swingarm or fit a swingarm from another bike....the chain going "through" the swingarm is the problem. You can't cut the belt to make it fit, but you can cut a chain....whereas the Experia doesn't have this problem, as you can see, circled in red in the pic below:
Smithy.
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Hi Don,
Just to follow up on our conversation re fitting a belt drive to an Experia:
Not an simple operation I'm afraid unless you're handy with tools, lathe, mill etc... Minor modification to the inside-left of the swingarm is required where the pulley comes very close, not too much, just enough for rear pulley clearance, otherwise the pulley will hit the swingarm. The rear pulley and belt are from a BMW F800 GT and the rear pulley is 80T, I fitted/bolted it to one of my old Experia rear sprockets, I used an old Vortex sprocket for this as it has 5 main spokes which marry up to the BMW pulley well, then the sprocket must have all the teeth machined off to the correct diameter to fit inside the BMW pulley with a little clearance....and then the pulley be spaced correctly to get it as close to the swingarm as possible for the belt to line up and the centre lines of both pulleys as close as possible....in the end, a space of only ~1mm between the pulley and swingarm is the best you can do, not perfect but very doable using spacing wahsers between the pulley mount face and the sprocket. I used 10mm A2 stainless shoulder bolts and stainless "nyloc" nuts to mount the pulley to the sprocket. The bolts are plenty strong enough with tensile strength ~5x the required sheer torque loading.
The front pulley is a different matter though...finding a pulley to fit and have the correct drive spline & tooth count is nigh-on impossible...so one must be made. I initially used a 26T hardened cast iron pulley from a Yamaha T-Max 560/Kymco 560 muscle scooter, the centre of which has to be machined out to form a nice flat rebate for the sprocket to be mounted and the width also has to be reduced, this pulley is originally for a 40mm width belt...however this will not fit the Experia, a 34mm wide belt is the widest that will safely fit....then, a front sprocket from an Aprilia Tuono/RSV has to me modified to fit inside the pulley, the teeth machined off and holes drilled through both the pulley and sprocket so they can be bolted together...the countershaft splines for the Aprilia and Energica are the same. The completed pulley must be fitted as close as possible to the motor to help bring the centerline of the pulleys as close as possible.
Ideally a 24T front pulley would be perfect, however a 24T pulley made from cast iron or steel is just not available unless custom made and as I have found....unless you get a minimum batch of 500 done, it's just not cost effective, there isn't even 500 Experias in existence world wide. I did find a source of 7075-T6 aluminium pulleys in 24T & 25T made for drag racing superchargers, spendy but available...I modified one of them to see if it is useable....It is, and I have used one for several thousand km.... and although they are hard anodised 7075-T6, I suspect wear of the aluminium will be an issue when longer distances are covered. Time will tell.
As mentioned previously in other posts, the swingarm must be removed to fit the belt, surprisingly it's not a difficult job and only takes ~1/2 hour or so to remove, I removed the chain protection rubbers from the swingarm as it's not needed with the belt as it kinda gets in the way.
Here's a pic below with the swingarm removed from my bike whilst fitting the belt/pulleys etc...I took the oportunity to re-lube/re-grease the swingarm pivot bearings and shock linkage bearings whilst I had the swingarm out. Surprisingly the needle bearings and spacers were in very good condition and well lubed from the factory.
Smithy.
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Nope....unless you cut the swingarm or fit a swingarm from another bike....the chain going "through" the swingarm is the problem. You can't cut the belt to make it fit, but you can cut a chain....whereas the Experia doesn't have this problem, as you can see, circled in red in the pic below:Smithy.
OIC. It's the bottom of the chain that goes through the middle of swing arm. Thanks for pointing that out as that was I didn't even notice that when I first looked at the bike, looking at the upper part of the chain.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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Not an simple operation I'm afraid unless you're handy with tools, lathe, mill etc.
I am okay around most tools, as I do most of most of my own automotive/ motorcycle work when possible-- which includes things like replacing the DCFC fuse inside the SS9- battery which required me to remove the battery to work on it. A rather difficult job, which I did complete. You probably read about it here. (https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=13516.msg130779#msg130779)
But changing a drive chain to a belt is not any type of work I have attempted to do in the past. I must congratulate you for even attempting to do such a job and better yet, successfully completing it!
I am not sure if I want to attempt this job or not, but I also prefer belts to chains--at least until a belt snaps on me. My Harley as well as my three Zeros use a belt and they are a lot less hassle than are chains.
But have you compared your range?
"Chain drives are significantly more efficient[/size] at transferring power to the rear wheel than belt drives, making them the preferred choice for performance-focused motorcycles. [/size][/size]Chain drives typically lose only 1% to 4% of power (96–99% efficiency), offering the most direct power transfer and fastest acceleration.
- Belt drives generally incur higher power losses, ranging from 9% to 15% (85–91% efficiency), due to the friction and flexibility of the rubber-reinforced material.
- [/size]While belts offer benefits like quieter operation and lower maintenance, the chain remains superior for raw power transmission efficiency."
-Don- Auburn, CA
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I am okay around most tools, as I do most of most of my own automotive/ motorcycle work when possible-- which includes things like replacing the DCFC fuse inside the SS9- battery which required me to remove the battery to work on it. A rather difficult job, which I did complete. You probably read about it here. (https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=13516.msg130779#msg130779)
But changing a drive chain to a belt is not any type of work I have attempted to do in the past. I must congratulate you for even attempting to do such a job and better yet, successfully completing it!
I am not sure if I want to attempt this job or not, but I also prefer belts to chains--at least until a belt snaps on me. My Harley as well as my three Zeros use a belt and they are a lot less hassle than are chains.
But have you compared your range?
"Chain drives are significantly more efficient[/size] at transferring power to the rear wheel than belt drives, making them the preferred choice for performance-focused motorcycles. [/size][/size]Chain drives typically lose only 1% to 4% of power (96–99% efficiency), offering the most direct power transfer and fastest acceleration.
- Belt drives generally incur higher power losses, ranging from 9% to 15% (85–91% efficiency), due to the friction and flexibility of the rubber-reinforced material.
- [/size]While belts offer benefits like quieter operation and lower maintenance, the chain remains superior for raw power transmission efficiency."
-Don- Auburn, CA
Hi Don,
As far as I can tell....the range I'm seeing is essentially unchanged compared to when I was running chain & sprockets.....I travel the same route to work and back each day and I'm not seeing any perceivable difference at my normal "checkpoints". Some days it's actually better, but certainly no worse, there may be other factors at work here, wind direction, my speed and whether I can ride behind similar speed traffic etc...
When they say belts aren't as efficient or take considerably more % to drive than a chain drive system....I was sceptical. I did some digging and this line of thought goes back a considerable length of time, something like 20-25 years....Belts and pulley design has changed for the better in recent years IMHO.....gone are the days of a belt drive system being very "draggy" compared to a chain....
The tensile strength of the belts has come a long way too.....the belt I'm currently running has a higher tensile strength than a standard 520 chain....go figure. Some belts can handle over 9000lbs of tensile force....whilst a standard 520 chain is only ~6400lbs.
Smithy.
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That power efficiency of the chain also assumes a run in, but unworn chain in excellent condition. The 9-15% loss for belts appears to have been based on V-belts, a synchronous belt or timing belt like what Smithy has installed is easily over 98% efficient in power transfer.
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I chatted with AI regarding the efficiency number that are on the internet and are widely quoted.
"No peer-reviewed or independent laboratory studies specifically testing motorcycle belt and chain drive efficiency under controlled conditions were found.
The most frequently cited data comes from a 2012 Friction Facts laboratory test, but it was conducted on bicycles, not motorcycles"
Test here; https://www.cyclingabout.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Gates-Carbon-Belt-Drive-efficiency-vs-traditional-single-Friction-Facts.pdf
In short.
Gates Carbon Drive vs. Chain Efficiency Test
Chain loss: 2.92 watts (average)
Belt loss: 3.93 watts (average)
Tested at 250W load, 95 RPM, with belt preloaded to 85 lb (per Gates guidelines)
While this test is rigorous and repeatable, it does not simulate motorcycle power levels (typically 50–150+ hp vs. ~0.3 hp in the test). The mechanical principles (friction, hysteresis, preload) are relevant, but scaling to higher torque and speed may alter efficiency outcomes.
Some motorcycle-specific claims (e.g., 97–99% efficiency for both systems) appear in manufacturer-backed or trade publications, such as a 2025 test by Gates and Universal Transmissions, but full methodology and raw data are not publicly available.
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I chatted with AI regarding the efficiency number
amazing how quickly you can lose any and all credibility
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I chatted with AI regarding the efficiency number
amazing how quickly you can lose any and all credibility
Was there any to lose? Respect and credibility on the internet? Silly old me? :D
I actually wanted to read the official testing and see what exactly was tested. What sort of belts and chains. Under what conditions. Technologia is advancing quickly. Almost any test results that are over ten years old are basically obsolete. It would maybe be going too far to say that tests over ten years old have lost any and all credibility. They have worth. If you have all the details they can often be interpolated to apply to more modern materials.
Unfortunately I was not surprised when no official test was found. Not that I could be bothered to spend very long time searching. Which is why I took a shortcut through AI. And stated so.
Which begs the question. Where do the much quoted chain/belt efficiency difference numbers originally come from? Was it really from a test of bicycle chains? Was it 520 chain vs 20 mm wide belt? 530 chain vs 50 mm wide belt? Were they new or run it? Was the test applicable to motorcycles? Was it under repeatable and controlled conditions?
Maybe you can find the source? If you can be bothered to spend any time searching.
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maybe you should ask AI
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If you really care a lot I will suggest coasting down a hill and seeing how fast you get going. If you have a timing system and a few eyes/sensors one could get more exact doing no chain vs the other ways. See if worn sprockets and chain is different from new ones. What do you guys run on Energica bikes x ring chains? It is 1/4 inch wide sprockets 525 not 530 without looking it up.
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If you really care a lot I will suggest coasting down a hill and seeing how fast you get going. If you have a timing system and a few eyes/sensors one could get more exact doing no chain vs the other ways. See if worn sprockets and chain is different from new ones. What do you guys run on Energica bikes x ring chains? It is 1/4 inch wide sprockets 525 not 530 without looking it up.
I don't really care that much TBH...I just go on "real world seat of my pants" results....If at the end of my normal trip I see my SOC is similar or better...I don't complain. I've been running the same route to work and back since I bought the bike in early 2023...the SOC difference between when I ran chain and sprockets vs the synchronous belt and pulleys is negligible. There is a difference of +/-5% when running in winter vs summer...but this is unrelated to the chain or belt drive.
The Experia runs a 520 chain and sprockets...the other Energica bikes, SS9, Rebelle and Ego run a 525.
Smithy.
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maybe you should ask AI
Surely you're pulling my leg, sir. I did ask AI.
If you really care a lot I will suggest coasting down a hill and seeing how fast you get going. If you have a timing system and a few eyes/sensors one could get more exact doing no chain vs the other ways. See if worn sprockets and chain is different from new ones. What do you guys run on Energica bikes x ring chains? It is 1/4 inch wide sprockets 525 not 530 without looking it up.
Coasting has many outside influences that can affect the results. For example tire pressure, wind, etc. When the margins are narrow those outside influences can skew the results.
I strive to always read the actual tests reports. It can tell you a lot about the accuracy of their results that other (maybe biased viewpoints) overlook.
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why would you use measured data like a sane person when you can ask AI
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why spend 20 minutes digging shit up verifying it etc when AI can do the same search and verification you would do in a few seconds.
AI IS very useful for some tasks. You just need to learn how to use it properly and understand what its limits are and not just regurgitate everything it says as gospel when you yourself dont have a clue how the system works that you asked it to diagnose for you. Itll give you the first answer that might work, doesn't mean its the correct answer for your application especially if you gave it poor criteria to begin with
machines are incredibly efficient at following tasks if given properly
humans are incredibly poor at giving instructions
intel inside
idiot outside