ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: cscherer@bluewin.ch on May 02, 2025, 08:58:57 PM
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Hi,
I recently got these failures:
P0562 VCU MAIN SUPPLY UNDERVOLTAGE
P0120 THROTTLE FAULT (physical Error)
P0121 THROTTLE FAULT (logic error)
I'm unable to bring the bike in the "GO" mode.
Any idea?
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What was the state of operation when the fault first appeared?
Did the fault appear immediately after the ignition key was powered on?
Was bike moving when fault appeared?
More info needed...
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sounds like feedback from the throttle is lost, it's current state, ie where its at or even comms period with it.
make sure no wires are bent crushed cut etcetc. try a sys resetl otherwise maybe a faulty sensore?
aaron
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Okay and thank you for your quick response.
So here's the full story: I drove down the battery to 2% and went to a DC Charger. After about 45' I stoped the charging with the station, not the bike. An error quickly popped up which I couldn't read so fast and the yellow engine symbol on the right hand side appeared and stayed. I started the ride home and while overtaking a car with full throttle the engine suddenly stopped and displayed a red triangle with an "!" and an "undefined error, call service center" message. I pulled over and tried several times off an on switching, but the failure stayed. I could not engage the GO mode anymore. I left the bike switched on for the hazard lights and organised a towaway service. After a while the bike switched off by itself and when I switched it on again, the red warnings were gone and I was able to drive again. Still with the yellow engine symbol on the right side of the display. I drove home very carefully in rain mode for more than 1 hour with normal speed.
When I was close to home I went to a DC fastcharger again and charged the bike for 5 minutes. After that I stopped the charging from the bike and all the warnings and symbols have been cleared!!!
The day after, when I switched on the bike again in the garage, all the warnings came back.
Sorry, it's a bit long but I know the details help.
Kind regards to all of you
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By the way spector, how do I a system reset?
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System Reset: Ignition on, after system is up, push and hold Mode button and Set button for several seconds until system restarts.
During the restart it will cycle several relays (you'll hear them clicking).
Best, Jens
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I had the same error codes and the same symptoms (bike cutting power randomly) with my SS9, the dealer had to replace the VCU
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=13159.msg126193
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OP - the fault conditions are retained until the system sees (3) consecutive GO activation cycles w/o the fault surfacing again.
Sounds plausible you just need a fault reset.
First, make sure throttle twist is free and when released snaps back to it's zero position hard-stop. Twist it fully several times allow it to snap back on its own then see if it requires additional assist to hit the low-side hard-stop.
Next switch on ignition, activate GO then hit the emergency off.
Repeat (3) times until the engine light on screen goes away - if it doesn't then the fault is still there.
Doesn't sound like anything you did was cause...if VCU is alive and software is functional it's possible buggy fault handling more than anything else...as was mentioned, loose or bad (intermittent) connection is always a suspect given the hard acceleration...did you stroke the throttle full stop on the high-side?
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Thanx for all the good advice. I try this reset in the afternoon and will report.
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Okay, I tried to apply your advices. Unfortunately none of them worked. I started the bike but it went almost instantly in the failure mode. With this fault I was unable to reset the bike. Nothing happened, when I pressed the Mode and the SET button. I pressed it for about 5 to 10 seconds.
Actually I brought the bike yesterday in the LPR mode. But now I'm unable to bring it out of the LPR mode because I cannot selct it. Strange
For the throttle movement. My throttle is a bit sticky to move. When I opened it fully it goes back by itself, but very slowly.
By the way it is a 2022 Eva Ribelle RS.
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that is your problem then, the throttle.
it's telling you the throttle is not operating properly and does NOT WANT you running it until it is fixed. What happens if it sticks at 70 percent as an example and does not come back down.
IF you go to the engineering screen i believe the throttle is one of the inputs it shows you there, check and make sure it cycles fully 0 to100.
You NEED TO FIND OUT what is making the throttle slow sticky like that and fix that before anything else though.
aaron
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worse case, energica usa is open in california, try giving them a call and maybe can get a new part from them or worse case, send the bike to them.
aaron
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Thank you aaron! What is the engineering screen? Can I access this by myself?
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Update: Today I tried again to switch on the bike and managed to deavtivate the LPR mode, because I didn't get the red warning. After that tried to engage the GO mode, but then this warning popped up:
I tried 3 times with same result.
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Update: Today I tried again to switch on the bike and managed to deavtivate the LPR mode, because I didn't get the red warning. After that tried to engage the GO mode, but then this warning popped up:
I tried 3 times with same result.
As Aaron said on the 5th May, your throttle is playing up....you need to get that sorted or it will forever give a fault.....continually trying to run the bike knowing it has a fault will get you nowhere.
Smithy.
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I will contact my dealer and see if he can help me. I keep you updated. Thank you so far!
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Are you still getting the P0562 VCU MAIN SUPPLY UNDERVOLTAGE fault?
That fault indicates the main computer is not receiving enough voltage. Check the voltage at fuse #1 (use frame as ground reference). Measured voltage should be between 12-13V. Continue to measure that voltage when you try to enable the throttle. It should not fluctuate.
A unstable supply voltage to the VCU can cause other issues and may explain the throttle faults as the throttle works off a supply voltage provided by the VCU.
If the VCU voltage fault is not present then the bike is seeing the throttle being partially open. This is a safety as enabling the throttle when it is open would be bad.
The engineering menu will show a live view of the throttle position (3rd line on the left). This should start at 0 and smoothly increase to 100 as you open the throttle.
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Yeah, all EVs have a safety system to not allow the drive system to enable if the accelerator/throttle is not read properly at 0%. I assume you also checked to make sure the twist-grip moves smoothly and returns to 0?
Demoni, How does one access the "Engineering Menu"?
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Yeah, all EVs have a safety system to not allow the drive system to enable if the accelerator/throttle is not read properly at 0%. I assume you also checked to make sure the twist-grip moves smoothly and returns to 0?
Demoni, How does one access the "Engineering Menu"?
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=12766.msg121498#msg121498
Experia is a different button input but the results are the same.
Smithy.
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Thank you for all the inputs. I will try this out on thursday and come back with the results.
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give it a hard turn to zero, not pipe wrench hard but a good snug twist. also in the engineering screen, check that voltage make sure it's not the cause.
Earlier you said that you felt the throttle being tight and sticking, so that absolutely is a problem, but just to make sure there are not any other issues, check the voltage.
not sure you can oil the throttle or not, or adjust, but do a sanity check, make sure it's not all clogged up with dirt, swiss cheese, or other gunk... bugs, that sort of stuff that could get sticky over time in there.
aaron
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Thank you Aaron. I try to make my way to find that swiss cheese in the handle...
I try to make a video, when I move the throttle and paste the youtube link here. I will also make this voltage check.
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https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=12766.msg121498#msg121498
Experia is a different button input but the results are the same.
Smithy.
Thanks Smithy, but I could not get the sequence to produce any results on my 2023 SS9+.
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https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=12766.msg121498#msg121498
Experia is a different button input but the results are the same.
Smithy.
Thanks Smithy, but I could not get the sequence to produce any results on my 2023 SS9+.
Pretty sure you need to be in the "Diagnostics" screen first before doing the button sequence... I made this mistake too. :-[
Smithy.
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Pretty sure you need to be in the "Diagnostics" screen first before doing the button sequence... I made this mistake too. :-[
Smithy.
I tried multiple time from within each of the menus, including in the Diagnostic screen (Where is shows the side view of the bike) and nothing. In fact, I can't even figure out how to exit that screen without power-cycling the bike.
I did figure out the master reset by holding Mode + Set for about 10 seconds, which resets the screen and then you hear the contactors cycling in the battery.
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to exit the engineering screen hold the button to the left for about .umm 5 to 10 seconds, like the 'go back' position and it'll eventually return to the previous screen.
it took me a few tries as well before i realized that you need to hold it for a little bit before it goes back. i think they do that on purpose, since it's a bit of an effort to get into that mode, to make sure you wanted to go back and didn't just fat finger it and have to redo all that again.
aaron
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to exit the engineering screen hold the button to the left for about .umm 5 to 10 seconds, like the 'go back' position and it'll eventually return to the previous screen.
it took me a few tries as well before i realized that you need to hold it for a little bit before it goes back. i think they do that on purpose, since it's a bit of an effort to get into that mode, to make sure you wanted to go back and didn't just fat finger it and have to redo all that again.
aaron
I can't even get into the engineering screen, The screen I can't figure out how to exit from is the Diagnostics screen.
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like i said hold the back button 5 seconds or so and it should go back
aaron
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Yeah, that worked! Thanks Aaron. I guess I just wasn't that patient. Now if I could figure out the Engineering screen....
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https://youtu.be/7i9-_VoqCsw (https://youtu.be/7i9-_VoqCsw)
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Yeah, My 2023 does not show the wrench nor engineering menu when I follow that exact procedure. I guess Energica removed it. I am on software 043.
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you only have a few seconds to get into that screen. when you get to where you can do the l r thing you have like 10 seconds to get it completed or it will not work.... give it a few tries. i think the experia is a slightly different order.
aaron
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Engineering screen works on my bike but I too struggle to gain entry and often just walk away swearing in Italian...it's gated for tight timing...try again you'll get in.
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Yeah, My 2023 does not show the wrench nor engineering menu when I follow that exact procedure. I guess Energica removed it. I am on software 043.
It works on all EsseEsse9, EVA and EGO bikes regardless of FW version.
Enter the main menu and use the code L,L,L R,R,R L,R,L, center press mode
To edit the screen hold mode to the left for 5 seconds.
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eXit - edit sounds scary ;).
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So I finally checked the voltage at fuse 1. It was a stable 12.66V even with moving the throttle.
With this link
https://youtu.be/FKc1XRkVRk8
you can see the thottle movement on the engineering screen.
I hope that helps in analysing.
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So I finally checked the voltage at fuse 1. It was a stable 12.66V even with moving the throttle.
With this link
you can see the thottle movement on the engineering screen.
I hope that helps in analysing.
Since you cannot calibrate the throttle to read 0% when fully closed, perhaps you should reach out to Energica USA (@Demoni) and see if they have another throttle assembly for you to try.
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Thank you pard. My dealer in Switzerland also has a throttle available. I just wonder if I could somehow "lubricate" the throttle to bring him to 0%.
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Thank you pard. My dealer in Switzerland also has a throttle available. I just wonder if I could somehow "lubricate" the throttle to bring him to 0%.
Worth a try, but with it being off by only 1%, I would guess the issue is with the throttle position sensor.
Let us know!
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if it was sticky, you'd have been able to hand force it to zero unless something was physically binding it. so this is probably more positioning or an electronic issue. do this. even though it's fully at zero... ie at the zero stop, try twisting it a bit more to see if you can make zero come up, again, don't jam on it or try to twist it off the handlebar but a firm twist to see if you can blip zero. if not its probably electric, like your zero drifted. run it all the way to full open see if it reads 100 percent or tickles 101 percent, curious if something slipped.
aaron
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Thank you for the tip Aaron. I already tried this. I cannot go futher then 1% even by force. If I open it fully it is still 100%.
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Throttle input looks fine...similar to using 4-20mA process loops...the low side throttle signal threshold being above zero is desired for noise margin...
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@Specter called it, Thanks! I was moving too slow to be very deliberate. I didn't realize I had to move fast, when I tried that, worked first try!
(http://ingineerix.com/pic/?energica-eng-screen1)
Very useful! Now it should be easy to correlate CAN signals from the various systems to decode them directly.
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that may be true pwm but the 0 is also the base line / anchor point, if that shifts, everything does and you'll have to recal the entire thing then. this is what i was looking for, see if there was a shift. you can tweak the 20 (or 15 if it's an air actuator) and only do that one ok, but if you change the 0 any, now you have to redo the 20 as well, and if for some reason doing a step or flow mapping, every point then as well.,
Aaron
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Ah, very good Aaron, I stand corrected....looks like faulty throttle then...
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another issue, i am not sure how the comms work here but on some data moving platforms, modbus comes to mind, as does other control and data systems. data is crunched into digital words or vectors of words, if a value is never intended to be less than zero, then the value sign is typically not included, (no need to),but if something happens and you DO throw a negative number in there, the value sign (that would be + / -) gets injected into an integer slot, and that extra bit/byte of data, shifts everything over a slot. So then with direct address mapping, ie fpm is in word 4 bytes 3 4 and 5, since the - shifted everything, the real value is now stored in 456, but you are looking in 345. what's now in 3? what was in the next value chunk that is now also shifted? see how this could quickly turn catastrophic to the process? typically in better control systems there is some sort of error trapping to prevent this, and i doubt something like this would happen on a bike, but just as an example of how 'bad inputs' can cascade other expectations as well. again, not sure but... this type scenario with a bad throttle input, could in theory, be the cause of the other error messages you see as well as other data gets corrupted by the shift as well. to know for sure you'd have to know what all is represented by that data word.
without knowing the specifics of the system one has to take broad / general troubleshooting steps to try to narrow down stuff such as look to see if it is going below zero etc. process control troubleshooting can very quickly lead to baldness as one rips their hair out!
the throttle, is there some sort of zero stop on it for movement? something adjustable that one can tweak to let it move a smidge to zero out or is it all done electronically? that's a hall sensor isn't it? i never really looked.
aaron
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Good point Aaron. I guess only Demoni can answer that question, if the throttle can be fixed / calibrated somehow.
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Most EV throttles are hall-effect or flux-gate. Usually there is some kind of calibration procedure, though some self-calibrate. Some have a mechanical calibration instead of software.
First thing I would do is take it apart and look for damage or something that changed. It's unlikely that it simply "lost" calibration. Using the engineering screen you can see what percentage the throttle is reporting real-time, so maybe you can figure out mechanically why it's no longer producing the correct range.
I tested my bike and it has a small deadband at both 0 and 100%, meaning it moves some without changing the number, so they wisely built some padding in to account for drift/wear. I'd look for something worn or broken inside that's causing it to travel in a different range than it was from the factory.
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Update
I had a phone call today with my dealer and when I opened the engineering screen again there was even no connection to the throttle at all. It showed 0% and didn't change at all while moving the throttle. So he will send me this week a new throttle and it hopefully works. I'll keep you up to date.
The sticky movement of my throttle was a simple mechanical thing, because I tightened the mirror (not the original one) to much and to close to the throttle and therefore squeezed the throttle.
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did you possibly pinch a wire with that mirror, cutting it, now the throttle is not responding due to the cut or pinched cable?
for not even seeing it, sounds like something cut or a plug disconnected somewhere
Aaron
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Maybe. I'll post it when I exchange the throttle.
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Okay, I got the new throttle, connected it, but still the same failures.So the bike goes to the dealer. I‘ll keep you updatef.
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Could be your motor encoder.
But there isn't an Energica company right now so what could a dealer do?
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I think he first has to analyse thoroughly the failure. Then we'll see.
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Update
Okay guys, the problem is solved without any spare part. Gianpietro from energica was at my dealers place this week and they analyzed the faults. There were tons of failures in the memory. They tried again with another throttle, but still no improvement.
They finally reloaded the firmware for all the parts and there she goes! A possible source of failure could have been an ODB Dongle I used, to measure the battery temperature. According to Gianpietro this might be the troublemaker, as any additional ODB data traffic may corrupt the firmware, if I got him correctly. So I will definitely remove the dongle and see how it works.
So I can finally pick up my dream machine next week. Thank you all for your support!
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Great news!
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So here's the full story: I drove down the battery to 2% and went to a DC Charger.
Happy for OP on getting this solved...do you mind posting which OBD device was employed?
Not buying the OBD explanation is why.
Throttle parameters can only be altered by user settings e.g. rain mode selection or potentially by code under extreme running conditions as when SOC goes red...fault handling in code is the better suspect, IMO.
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Of course. It's called powercruisecontrol.
Here's the link to the website: https://www.powercruisecontrol.com
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As an update to the situation, I drove about 600 km now with the bike and had no problem at all. I run it now without using the OBD port.
I charged it twice with a fast charger and the charging started without a problem and also the bike ended the charging process by itself, as it was fully charged then.
I keep fingers crossed!
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any additional ODB data traffic may corrupt the firmware, if I got him correctly.
I'm glad you got your bike fixed, but this just isn't possible.
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Unhappy to report: Same failure again...
Failure code P0120 and P0121
Bike goes back again.
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Sorry to hear that the issues are back. :-\ I hope you’ll be able to sort them out with the help of your dealer!
By the way, I’m currently looking for a new dealer myself, as Speedbox in Wettingen stopped supporting Energica some time ago. Is the Swiss importer e-performance your dealer of choice? Too bad that Stansstad is a bit too far from where I live.
That said, I was very positively surprised to read at the end of May that a technician from Energica in Modena had been at your dealership in Switzerland — one of the very few signs of life from the (ex) company lately.
Gianpietro from energica was at my dealers place this week and they analyzed the faults.
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Sounds like you may have a flash memory starting to fail in the bike's main ECU. Some types of flash when they fail will bit flip, then you correct it by reflashing, and that same area will again bitflip.
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The VCU hardware is not proprietary to Energica, is it?
Seems COTS to me...also, always assumed this is to be an android operating kernel, is it?
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it may not be proprietary but it still will need to be flashed, and it is married, so not a diy job.
aaron
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Update or latest state of error!
My dealer was able to fix the bike. To share the experience:
He did a lot of analysis with energica together and finally came to the conclusion, that indeed the throttle was the source of the problem. As soon as the fault appeared, it corrupted the software of the VCU. They reinstalled the software from the scratch, tried first with the "old" throttle and could reproduce the fault instantly. With the new throttle so far, so good. Let's cross fingers.
I take her for a ride tomorrow and I'll see.
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He did a lot of analysis with energica together
Does that mean, someone in Italy picks up the phone again?
Good to hear that your bike is running again!
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He did a lot of analysis with energica together
Does that mean, someone in Italy picks up the phone again?
Good to hear that your bike is running again!
This sounds like a software bug induced by a hardware defect...hopefully not a common issue...where can one source same throttle as OEM for spares consideration? Thanks OP for sharing your troubleshooting experience...
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That does sound very odd, a hardware failure on an input device corrupting software. Hopefully it is not common but a fix should be fairly easy. Did they say exactly what happened? Aaron
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No Aron, they didn't. It was just try and error followed afterwards the most reasonable explanation.
The throttle as source of the failure makes sense so far, as I had it always in the diagnostics page the P120 and P121 failure, which is linked to the throttle.
I made a 340 km run with 1 DC charge. Again it was very difficult to get the bike charging. It took me 5 attempts. And of course, already after the first charging failure, the yellow engine symbol is back again! Although this time I had no problem to continue my ride. It switched the bike several times on and off, but the symbol came to stay...
@jotjotd: According to my dealer he was doing the diagnosis with energica in Modena, so I assume somebody must be there.
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if they reloaded the software, did the reload have the 43 upgrade on it, that one fixed a lot of the problems with the charge stations.
the yellow engine symbol takes 5 actual, 'go' conditions then turn on / off to clear. if it's the yellow ! that's your maintenance needed symbol which has to be reset by them or a dealer. that's basically a 'your oil change is due' kind of nag, not necessarily something to be overly worried about.
at least it's running again, look at your diagnostic screen, does it say any active issues? if not then the engine thingie should clear after 5 full cycles.
aaron
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Thanx for the info Aron.
The software is 043, and yes! the MIL symbol disaperared. The diagnostic screen was clear, no fault indicated.
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Just as a reminder.
The MIL light appears underneath the ABS symbol in right row besides the display.
The maintenance symbol is a wrench appearing next to the TC in the display.