ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: DonTom on May 01, 2025, 02:58:52 AM
-
I have no idea how this happened, but today, I noticed my 2020 SS9-, was leaking brake fluid from the rear of the back wheel brake caliper.
I removed the caliper and took it apart for a closer look. See photos below of the rear caliper back piston cup. Perhaps my rear brake pad has been causing brake drag without me knowing because of the high regen. The last time I rode this bike was about two weeks ago and I didn't notice anything wrong at that time. The bike was on the side stand in the garage since then, but I was just today getting it ready to ride today when I discovered this problem.
The rear brake pad was totally worn down, yet the rear brake gets used very little with the high regen. The other pad (front of rear caliper) looks fine. I assume I had one pad locked out without knowing, perhaps causing brake drag.
Is it still possible to order parts for this?
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
Also, nothing left of the two o-ring seals, which explains the fluid leak:
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
just a standard Brembo brake right? order directly or goto Energica yourself, they ARE open for business in san fran !!
aaron
-
I called the Energica dealer in Livermore, CA (where I purchased the bike late in year 2019). As I expected, they told me they canNOT get it.
But I think my caliper is repairable. I filed the piston cap end a bit rounder, so it's a slightly deeper better fit inside the caliper and I ordered a bunch of metric automotive grade O-ring kits. Hopefully one of the sizes will fit.
I also took the cup out from the opposite side and those O-rings looked well eaten up as well.
Hopefully the new O-rings work with brake fluid. I doubt they can be much worse than the original ones.
While the larger front brake calipers say "brcmbo" right on them, the much different design rear brake caliper gives no clue who made it.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
Also, heavy regen or not, you should still be able to tell if you have a brake hanging up or not, there still is an idle spot in there, if you can't find it, you may be dragging. Then there is the smell as things start to heat up and cook off.
Might want to pay a bit more attention when you ride, or make it a habit to inspect the bike each time you get on / off looking for issues such this.
while your problem so far is just .. annoying, if that thing locked up at 70 mph or so, that problem, suddenly may be an order or two of magnitude more urgent.
Aaron
-
Energica is using a standard Bembo rear caliper with the PN 920.B852.93. It has got a 34mm piston and is used a lot in Ducati and other bikes. As for Ducati you will find it in the 1100MONSTER, 1200MONSTER & 1200MULTISTRADA but also in MV Agusta BRUTALE675 & BRUTALE800. With that any dealer should be able to order a repair kit. Brembo repair kits are often available with and w/o the pistons.
FWIW, the seal between the caliper halves are a pain. Once taken apart, there is a high likeliness that you will not be able to get them reassembled without them leaking - at least with the original Brembo kit. Made this experience myself and after double checking with the dealer he mentioned that he made the same experience on other models but with that caliper 920.B852.93.
Good luck!!
-
Energica is using a standard Bembo rear caliper with the PN 920.B852.93. It has got a 34mm piston and is used a lot in Ducati and other bikes. As for Ducati you will find it in the 1100MONSTER, 1200MONSTER & 1200MULTISTRADA but also in MV Agusta BRUTALE675 & BRUTALE800. With that any dealer should be able to order a repair kit. Brembo repair kits are often available with and w/o the pistons.
FWIW, the seal between the caliper halves are a pain. Once taken apart, there is a high likeliness that you will not be able to get them reassembled without them leaking - at least with the original Brembo kit. Made this experience myself and after double checking with the dealer he mentioned that he made the same experience on other models but with that caliper 920.B852.93.
Good luck!!
Thanks!
That was the type of info I needed in case I cannot get my caliper back together.
I confirmed that is the same brake caliper. That means I do not have to try to get it from Energica, and that is great news!
I see it on E-Bay, but there they do not ship to the USA. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/235088646657?msockid=0323c98a4ac266421333dc454b9c67d3)
But I should be able to find it elsewhere not that I have a part number.
Thanks again!
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
Energica is using a standard Bembo rear caliper with the PN 920.B852.93. It has got a 34mm piston and is used a lot in Ducati and other bikes. As for Ducati you will find it in the 1100MONSTER, 1200MONSTER & 1200MULTISTRADA but also in MV Agusta BRUTALE675 & BRUTALE800. With that any dealer should be able to order a repair kit. Brembo repair kits are often available with and w/o the pistons.
FWIW, the seal between the caliper halves are a pain. Once taken apart, there is a high likeliness that you will not be able to get them reassembled without them leaking - at least with the original Brembo kit. Made this experience myself and after double checking with the dealer he mentioned that he made the same experience on other models but with that caliper 920.B852.93.
Good luck!!
I just now ordered it from another local place on Ebay. A new one, which says it costs only $136.00 but they add on $90.00 in shipping costs and ten bucks in other BS, so it totals $226.00 (the real price).
I will still try to fix my old one just to see what happens, but I will soon have the new one anyway.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
Energica is using a standard Bembo rear caliper with the PN 920.B852.93. It has got a 34mm piston and is used a lot in Ducati and other bikes. As for Ducati you will find it in the 1100MONSTER, 1200MONSTER & 1200MULTISTRADA but also in MV Agusta BRUTALE675 & BRUTALE800. With that any dealer should be able to order a repair kit. Brembo repair kits are often available with and w/o the pistons.
FWIW, the seal between the caliper halves are a pain. Once taken apart, there is a high likeliness that you will not be able to get them reassembled without them leaking - at least with the original Brembo kit. Made this experience myself and after double checking with the dealer he mentioned that he made the same experience on other models but with that caliper 920.B852.93.
Good luck!!
I just now ordered it from another local place on Ebay. A new one, which says it costs only $136.00 but they add on $90.00 in shipping costs and ten bucks in other BS, so it totals $226.00 (the rear price).
I will still try to fix my old one just to see what happens, but I will soon have the new one anyway.
-Don- Auburn, CA
Ouch! That is one hell of a shipping fee. >:(
-
Ouch! That is one hell of a shipping fee. >:(
I think it is the BS factor, the seller fee is (or at least used to be)based on the price of the item, not counting the shipping, so they pay less of a fee if something has a price tag of one cent and a shipping cost of several hundred bucks.
We Just have to always look at the total price, not the advertised price.
I never sell anything on eBay, so I do not know how it works these days, but I thought they once had so many people playing such games that they added the seller fees to the shipping, because it was costing eBay a lot of loss in the fees. I don't blame them as the price for everything could be one cent otherwise, so I am not sure why sellers seem to be playing this game again. But it is beginning to look like the old way is back, where shipping is not included in the seller's fee.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
FWIW, the seal between the caliper halves are a pain. Once taken apart, there is a high likeliness that you will not be able to get them reassembled without them leaking - at least with the original Brembo kit. Made this experience myself and after double checking with the dealer he mentioned that he made the same experience on other models but with that caliper 920.B852.93.
Good luck!!
I discovered this in a search:
"The manufacturer recommends that the calipers not be split as they can distort and leak when they go back together even with new o-rings. The pistons can be removed without splitting the caliper."
But not sure if it is the same caliper. But the same issue, obviously.
BTW, do you have a part number for the rear caliper repair kit for the 920.B852.93 ?
I can only find the front, which I think is BRA31631 (https://www.mvh-shop.de/Motorcycle-Brake-Caliper-Repair-Kit-front-motorworks-BRA31631). But I am not even sure about that.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
To my surprise, I used a single O-ring on each side from this HFT kit (https://www.harborfreight.com/397-piece-metric-o-ring-assortment-67580.html)and put it all together and bleed it all and so far, perfect! I have not yet ridden it anywhere since the repair, but the rear brake feels perfect and no leaks. No dragging, no problems at all. But so far, I have only moved the bike around in the garage and keep on checking the rear brake that now feels just like a new bike.
I think this will at least last me until I get my new caliper.
All I did to put the two halves together is clean them, put a little engine oil on the small seals, as well as the piston cup seals, and tightened the haves to the point it was well in danger of breaking my tools. I had the caliper in a vise to do such as that is what I needed to do to split them. With a long telescopic wrench that gives a lot of leverage. I made sure I put it back just as tight as the way I found it. A lot more torque used than one would think is necessary.
Perhaps not done the correct way, but if it works, that is all the counts!
Since I do feel it is safe to ride, I will do my test ride tomorrow. And when I decide to go back to Reno, I will take this bike (100 miles/160 KM). When I get my new caliper, I will then decide if I even want to bother with changing it. But I should at least change the pads, they are worn down perhaps from drag when the original seals somehow got chewed up.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
… put a little engine oil on the small seals, as well as the piston cup seals…
Don‘t ride it like that!!!
For assembly of brake caliper pistons and seals there are special lubricants that can be mixed with brake fluid. Motor oil cannot, mainly because Motor oil can damage rubber parts in the brake system incl. ABS block (!!!), leading to leaks and failure. Next, it's much thicker than brake fluid, hindering proper brake function. Further more, it has a much lower boiling point, increasing the risk of dangerous vapor lock. So you have managed to contaminate the brake system => that’s why I would highly recommend to carefully reflush the brake system.
I‘m afraid I don‘t know the PN for the repair kit. Google was not very helpful with that, so I would recommend to contact a Brembo sales office, possibly via a local motorcycle dealer, and ask for that.
-
Just last week I have done a 20mins YT video on brake caliper service (https://youtu.be/C1Qzo1EMaGQ?si=1u0WE8zirWeqy25b). It‘s in German but if you watch it via web browser (not iOS or iPadOS App) then the auto CC does a fairly good job. Maybe worth watching?!
-
Don‘t ride it like that!!!
For assembly of brake caliper pistons and seals there are special lubricants that can be mixed with brake fluid. Motor oil cannot, mainly because Motor oil can damage rubber parts in the brake system incl. ABS block (!!!), leading to leaks and failure. Next, it's much thicker than brake fluid, hindering proper brake function. Further more, it has a much lower boiling point, increasing the risk of dangerous vapor lock. So you have managed to contaminate the brake system => that’s why I would highly recommend to carefully reflush the brake system.
I‘m afraid I don‘t know the PN for the repair kit. Google was not very helpful with that, so I would recommend to contact a Brembo sales office, possibly via a local motorcycle dealer, and ask for that.
The entire thing will be flushed again when I receiver the new brake caliper which will be in a couple of weeks. I figure since I need to change the brake pads anyway, I will change the caliper then.
It is less than a drop of motorail on the seals only, for reassembly. And the seals I have in there are NOT even designed for brake fluid, but for oil. I doubt it will hurt anything, and I almost believe it cannot be as bad as it got from the pure brake fluid where the stock seals which got eaten away to the point there is almost nothing left of them.
But this is just for temporary use. Don't need much rear brake anyway with the high regen along with the fact I ride much like a little old lady (which gives much better range on electrics!).
I am surprised what I did today works at all. But I doubt I will ever get the rear brake hot enough to cause any issues.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
I‘m afraid I don‘t know the PN for the repair kit. Google was not very helpful with that, so I would recommend to contact a Brembo sales office, possibly via a local motorcycle dealer, and ask for that.
I assume this is it for the seals (https://www.ebay.com/itm/353078948126?_skw=brembo+34mm&itmmeta=01JTBDB493A2PMTNA6S64SS0R0&hash=item523525311e:g:2nUAAOSwSKVlyjkJ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eCKghzrnu7zxgwXdFUfYEc7sGX2H3SvxkfkntpTqh6O3G0oYgKw4m%2FTgmrl0I%2BVRwS%2FmvGfq0KIRez3zJZJou9hK5Fel4QXcWoKc5s%2FBZvDjpL14N2v3P4sEHR5NQGPIlG9FufO%2FtQXwL59yK8rcv%2Bz37sr%2FL8o7vhtZhUi3Z0a8fFitOHQnoRt7pDS5DIgeKTl1Ur9oecuh6BsalRmr3oDBEbjTY%2BLUBhzUodmsbWIVTS4I%2FJpYwE97i91Yvc%2FK4Syj8NCrJ6ZtFXCU%2Bmg85b%7Ctkp%3ABFBMpMWs7dJl). But does not include the pistons which I will search for later.
My plan is to use the new caliper, but correctly rebuild the old one.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
I assume this would be a good piston for the caliper rebuild:
-
I now put a few hundred miles on my 2020 SS9- with the very mickey-mouse rear caliper repair. Only the first seal is in on each side, and it's a cheap O-ring from HFT. I was very surprised it worked at all and now I am even more surprised that it works perfectly, at least as well as the rear brake did when the bike was new.
And I am now wondering if this will even outlast the original. The OEM lasted less than 11K miles (18 km) which is not much on a bike that uses mostly regen for the rear wheel to slow.
Nevertheless, I will rebuild it when I get the parts, which should be in few more days.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
May I add for everyone who is interested in that issue that Brembo lists a caliper P2-RS84 with parts no. 120B27810 as an official replacement.
This caliper appears to be colored a bit darker than the 920B85293 and comes including brake pads for approx. 180 EUR.
There are also 4-piston replacements listed for Energica EVAs, but last time I checked they cost around 550 EUR.
-
May I add for everyone who is interested in that issue that Brembo lists a caliper P2-RS84 with parts no. 120B27810 as an official replacement.This caliper appears to be colored a bit darker than the 920B85293 and comes including brake pads for approx. 180 EUR.There are also 4-piston replacements listed for Energica EVAs, but last time I checked they cost around 550 EUR.
I received my rear caliber today. It is an exact match of the one in my 2020 Essee Esse 9. I also received my stainless-steel brake pistons. But the new brake pads and seals are taking their time to get here.
Perhaps I can buy the brake pads at the local dealer, but there is no hurry.
I am going to install the new rear brake caliper when I get the new brake pads. The caliper I am removing will be rebuilt with the stainless-steel pistons and new stock seals, which will be a spare that I will probably never use.
-Don- Reno, NV
-
I replaced the caliper with new & with new pads. The new spring (that goes under the pin on top of the pads) was very difficult to fit, but I got the job done.
I have ridden the bike a few hundred miles since then. TBH, I feel no difference between the new correct rear brake setup and my previous very mickey-mouse repair. But it is working as it should.
-Don- Reno, NV
-
Are you happy with the rear brake performance on the SS9? I almost never used mine because I run regen at level 2. However, after having the entire rear brake replaced (it seized, overheated, and lost all fluid), I’m surprised by how weak the new one feels. I can barely get the ABS to kick in — it takes what feels like around 20 kg of pressure on the lever, and even then the braking effect is extremely poor.
Do you have any suggestions for improving the rear brake’s performance?
Cheers, Urs
-
Is all the air bled out of the lines, and the new cylinder completely filled with new fluid etc etc? Having air in the system can cause issues.
on occasion, when putting a new brake / caliper / piston etc in it can take more than one bleed down from the initial fill-install.
Aaron
-
Thanks for the input, Aaron. I didn’t fit it myself, so I’ll have the mechanic give it another bleed.
-
It may not necessarily be needing a bleed, a potential clog can cause issues too but sounds like something isn't right. Air in the line can cause issues, feeling like it's spongy, or you need to press harder because you are fighting with that 'springy mass' since it compresses, and fluids really don't. If you seized it and it btfu, unless he replaced every component there could be varnish, or crud got somewhere too. Normally when you burn them that hard, the brake fluid can burn off, boil off, leaving soot, varnish, all sorts of undesirable crud in your system.
I wouldn't go in and directly tell your mechanic, you need to re bleed it, as that may not fix it, but describe what you are feeling, and perhaps ask, do you think it needs to be bled again? otherwise if you say, bleed it, and that's not it, he bleeds as you said, you pay, and still have the problem.
also, since you are there, how does the brake feel, if you want to adjust it's position etc, nows the time as well.
Aaron
-
Are you happy with the rear brake performance on the SS9? I almost never used mine because I run regen at level 2. However, after having the entire rear brake replaced (it seized, overheated, and lost all fluid), I’m surprised by how weak the new one feels. I can barely get the ABS to kick in — it takes what feels like around 20 kg of pressure on the lever, and even then the braking effect is extremely poor.
Do you have any suggestions for improving the rear brake’s performance?
Cheers, Urs
Yes, it works very well, but I rarely need it because of the high regen.
A simple way to bleed the brake is to find a way to hold the brake pedal down overnight. That will get the air out the same way it got in. Some bikes get air in the lines often, especially when not ridden much. It will seem like a new brake when you get the air out of the lines. Make sure your brake fluid level is okay too.
-Don- Reno, NV
-
That's not necessarily true, the air bubbles getting in can migrate past where they got in at, they will try to float to the top being lighter than brake fluid. ideally your system is tight and there should be no leaks in it. All that will do is show you if you got any leaks by keeping it pressurized and pissing the fluid out to help you spot the leak.
in your case, the reason you may have air is because you / your mechanic broke the system open to repair parts. once he put everything together it should be very tight. He is correct though that if you do have air, getting rid of it your brakes will work tons better.
Aaron
-
When the bike was new I had the same feeling of weak braking performance with the original pads. I think those were organic, but now with the Brembo sinter pads braking is OK for me.
I am on my fourth pair of pads now - with my current riding style they last approx. 20.000 km.
Maybe try another manufacturer? Forum member Most recommended EBC pads to me recently.
When changing pads, be prepared for some struggle to press the wire spring thingy back underneath the pin. As Don mentioned in one of his above posts, it's not easy - I used a large washer to press it down before reinserting the pin. Another tip from me is to use a new pin because the old one is of normal steel only and corrodes easily. That pin plus the spring are sold as spare parts for approx. 20 Euros.
BTW the original disc has still more than 4,7 mm thickness after 85.000 km. Obviously the rear disc is not of the same shitty OEM 'quality'.
-
Thanks for the excellent information. I’ll first try bleeding the brake, and if there’s no improvement, I’ll switch to EBC sintered metal pads.