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Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: jotjotde on December 24, 2024, 11:08:46 PM
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Update of Update
My sincere apologies for having posted sh*t earlier about the OEM discs thickness.
Here is what I think are the correct information about the rear disc brake.
Status Quo of my rear brake disc
After 75,000 km I still have the original disc and are using my 3rd pair of pads (1st was OEM, then the red ones from Brembo).
Thickness measured at eight places is still well over 4.7 mm (minimum thickness is 4.5 mm as you can see stamped on the disc), so I assume the OEM disc was 5 mm.
I am an avid user of the rear brake, e.g. using it for stability in downhill curves with the throttle open, so I think it can be said that for most of us it should be a long time until a replacement disc is necessary.
Replacement discs
When searching for replacements I found out that the rims of our bikes are made by Italian company named Marchesini who are also supplying to other brands, most prominently for the 2008 Ducati Desmoseidici RR, a 188 HP limited edition bike. When you search the web for pictures, you can easily identify the rear brake disc being the same as on our Energicas by its unique design.
Main dimensions:
Diameter: 240 mm
Hole diameter: 125 mm
Centering diameter: 107 mm
Number of holes: 5
Hole diameter: 8.5mm (for M8 screws)
1. Brembo no. 68B40768
Thickness: 4 mm
Comment: Note that this is a thin one. I could not find any other matching Brembo disc with a higher thickness.
2. NG Brakes (Spain) no. NG1052
Thickness: 4 mm
Comment: Also a thin disc, maybe for racing. I tried to purchase this disc in Germany but the official distributors denied having it on stock. Maybe one has to contact the Spanish HQ.
3. EBC Brakes (Great Britain) no. MD618
Thickness: 5 mm
Comment: EBC Brakes (Great Britain) offers variations:
MD618 plain design, carbon steel
MD618C contoured, stainless
MD6181C contoured, carbon steel, gold plated
MD6181CX waved, stainless
MD6181D plain, stainless
4. Braking Brakes (Germany) no. DC04RID
Thickness 5 mm
Comment: Wave design
Issue of disc thickness
Most probably the thickness of the original disc was 5 mm with minimum of 4.5 mm.
Question is whether the thinner Brembo is safe to be used as replacement.
The OEM caliper has the Brembo part no. 920B85293 (thanks to Matthias (most) for this info!).
Replacement for EVAs according to the Brembo catalogue is a Brembo P2-RS84 with parts no. 120B27810. This caliper is made for discs with 5 mm and minimum 4.5 mm and thus probably would not be safe for use with a 4 mm disc.
Though that thinner disc could be used with a more sophisticated 4-piston caliper GP2-SS no. 120A44110 (for approx. 550 EUR).
Summary
Available discs with 4 mm thickness are most probably not safe to be used with the original caliper. Currently EBC seems to be the right source to get a replacement disc if needed. Best matching type would be the MD618.
First, let me wish a happy winter solstice, whatever other name you may have for it ;D
You might remember from some of my posts that the absence of information about the rear disc nagged me for a long time. So I took the opportunity of a major maintenance (change of sprockets and chain) to dismount the original disc and took some measurements.
After some research on the web, I found the Brembo 68B40768 to be fitting.
It’s also a fit for older Ducatis. Only difference to the original disc mounted on the Ribelle is the thickness. While the original one had 4.5 mm, the 68B40768 has only 4.0 mm.
Do you think that could be an issue?
UPDATE April 2025:
Found more alternatives:
NG Brakes (Spanish manufacturer) No. NG1052 (4 mm thickness).
EBC (UK manufacturer) MD618 (5 mm th.).
BRAKING (German manufacturer) No. DC04RID (5 mm th.).
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Good find!
Should not be a problem going .5mm thinner on a disk. If you are a heavy rear brake user and get it extremely heated up, it will be more likely to warp. Only caution I can think of.
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maybe slightly more noise or chatter from the free floating pads since there is more room for them to wiggle around but shouldn't be that bad of an issue. Im sure the engine noise will drown out any noises the brakes will make ;D
There are no other places for the brakes? I remember seeing something, IM trying to remember if it was for my racing bike and special pads or some other place that they had disks and all sorts of things for bikes, energica included and there were several to actually choose from.
Aaron
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maybe slightly more noise or chatter from the free floating pads since there is more room for them to wiggle around but shouldn't be that bad of an issue. Im sure the engine noise will drown out any noises the brakes will make ;D
There are no other places for the brakes? I remember seeing something, IM trying to remember if it was for my racing bike and special pads or some other place that they had disks and all sorts of things for bikes, energica included and there were several to actually choose from.
Aaron
BrakeTech makes front rotors for the Energica.
Not sure if they make rear.
https://braketech.com/product-category/brake-rotors/#
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Thx Aaron and Pard!
Aaron, the rear disc is a fixed one, no floaters.
There is a German manufacturer www.braking.de offering waved discs. Interestingly for the Ducatis mentioned above there are two different thicknesses available, 4 mm and 5 mm.
Problem here in Germany is, discs have to be officially certified for the bike.
Though the Brembo is not certified for Energica, I doubt that anyone will notice.
But those waved discs would draw unnecessary attention :P
At 64,000 km the original disc has still 4.2 mm, so it should be good for some more.
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Unless you warped it or grooved it or some other physical damage that rotor should be fine. The major wear component is going to be the pad really uness you are racing or something which is just really hard on the entire brake system, pads, rotors, fluid, etc etc.
Wavy rotors etc etc, they look neat and all but again, are you pushing your system to THAT severe of an operating condition that you'd need that?
Brembo is not certified? Aren't those the brakes that came with it? Given everyone uses them on higher end stuff, I don't think the cops would really notice, unless they had a hard on for you and were going out of their way to find stuff to bitch about.
You need to get the corsa kit on your bike, make them have to catch you first 8) ;D J/K
Aaron
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@jotjotde. Many thanks for sharing, appreciated!
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Update: More alternatives, see top post.
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I just replaced all three brake pads on my Experia with the Brembo suggested aftermarket pads (https://www.bremboparts.com/europe/de/catalogue-bike/energica-eva-ribelle/20669), which are 07BB20SP for the rear. Rims, calipers and discs are identical for all Energica models.
Long story short: The pads require the pisteons to go back in all the way, and the caliper *just* fits on the brake disc. I would not swap the rear disk *just like that* for a thicker one. I really wonder it new pads will then fit at all…
I came across such an observation already in some BMW GS forums as the aftermarket pads appear to be slightly thicker that the OEM fitted versions - and not only due to the fact that in case of Brembo the aftermarket pads are painted in red.
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Sorry, I had to update the update.
You find the (hopefully now correct) infos in the top post.
BTW thanks to most for his input. If you want to service your brakes, go an look at his videos on youtube!
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Finally I installed the EBC disk MD618.
Not because the OEM Brembo was worn out, it had still 4.7 mm after 87,000 km.
I had the EBC disc laying around for a long time and just wanted to see if it really fits.
It does! And it works well with the red Brembo pads.
On first sight the EBC does not look that much different.
Just in case someone is wondering, I also replaced the unsightly disc screws against some blingy titanium 😅
Please note that you will need some washers underneath the ABS ring and you might need another washer underneath the ABS sensor screw otherwise the sensor could scrape against the ring.
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that abs ring will kill your regen too if it's not working correctly.
Aaron
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Pretty! Digging that rear axle nut as well. What are you using there?
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Aaron: Of course you are right. Probably TC would also be affected. So double checking is advised!
Pard: The axle nut is also made from Grade 5 titanium. Bought it a Pro-Bolt as well for about 50 €. It’s a M25 x 1.5 in case you want to get one.
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Aaron: Of course you are right. Probably TC would also be affected. So double checking is advised!
Pard: The axle nut is also made from Grade 5 titanium. Bought it a Pro-Bolt as well for about 50 €. It’s a M25 x 1.5 in case you want to get one.
Perfect! thx
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Pard: The axle nut is also made from Grade 5 titanium. Bought it a Pro-Bolt as well for about 50 €. It’s a M25 x 1.5 in case you want to get one.
I also am running a standard m25x1.5 instead of the stock, so much easier for a standard wrench or socket, including the lightweight aluminum ones e.g. Cycle Gear Stockton brand.
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you are correct. an out of tolerance tone ring, or a bad sensor or anything in that circuit that is not right will cause grief with anything that needs some sort of speed reference, TC, ABS, and of course regen which has to work with these two systems. The bike will still run, just w/o abs,tc which if you were expecting them, could surprise you. your speedo will work, that gets its reference from motor rpm, just as an fyi.
aaron.
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Pard: The axle nut is also made from Grade 5 titanium. Bought it a Pro-Bolt as well for about 50 €. It’s a M25 x 1.5 in case you want to get one.
I also am running a standard m25x1.5 instead of the stock, so much easier for a standard wrench or socket, including the lightweight aluminum ones e.g. Cycle Gear Stockton brand.
Would high quality aluminum work?
Material: T6 Aluminum
Replaces OEM KTM Part Number: 61010086000
Collar Nut Size: M25x1.5 WS=32 05
From the web:
"maximum torque before failure for this T6 aluminum nut, assuming 6061-T6 material and standard thread engagement, is around 470 Nm based on thread stripping strength. It will definitely handle 90 Nm without issue."
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I wouldn't trust aluminum, it's soft, even the aircraft stuff, it creeps over time. There's corrosion, even though aluminum does develop a protective layer pretty fast on exposure to air, the salts and crap will eat it up, just goto any dock and look at aluminum anything when it hits salt water, you being ny is it?, salt on the roads in winter will do it just as good. Possibly galvanic activity with other metal too.
yes yes i know the swingarm etc is aluminum, but that nut is a small part with a huge force on it. Unless you drill it and wire it, i can see it stripping, shaving, causing grief for you unfortunately.
just my opinion.
aaron
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I wouldn't trust aluminum, it's soft, even the aircraft stuff, it creeps over time. There's corrosion, even though aluminum does develop a protective layer pretty fast on exposure to air, the salts and crap will eat it up, just goto any dock and look at aluminum anything when it hits salt water, you being ny is it?, salt on the roads in winter will do it just as good. Possibly galvanic activity with other metal too.
yes yes i know the swingarm etc is aluminum, but that nut is a small part with a huge force on it. Unless you drill it and wire it, i can see it stripping, shaving, causing grief for you unfortunately.
just my opinion.
aaron
What material is the rear axle made out of?
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i honestly don't know when i get home ill xrf mine and see.
it is rusting on my bike so ill say it's some sort of steel.
aaron
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i honestly don't know when i get home ill xrf mine and see.
it is rusting on my bike so ill say it's some sort of steel.
aaron
Supposin its chromoly steel.
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i honestly don't know when i get home ill xrf mine and see.
it is rusting on my bike so ill say it's some sort of steel.
aaron
Supposin its chromoly steel.
Agree...possibly 4130 or 4140...or similar...??
Smithy.
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Pard: The axle nut is also made from Grade 5 titanium. Bought it a Pro-Bolt as well for about 50 €. It’s a M25 x 1.5 in case you want to get one.
I also am running a standard m25x1.5 instead of the stock, so much easier for a standard wrench or socket, including the lightweight aluminum ones e.g. Cycle Gear Stockton brand.
@jotjotde , is this the one you are using? Taller height is a real benefit. 18mm.
The stock nut does not offer much material for the socket to grab on to.
https://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium-flanged-axle-nut-m25x-1-50mm-drilled-rear-wheel-tinut25150003dz2/
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Speaking of metal fatigue, I was torquing down the real axle nut on my Grom to 59 Nm, and I heard a crack and felt something fail.
Removed the nut thinking I broke the axle which is a solid 12mm steel rod, but it turned out the nut failed and all the threads were pulled clean off.
It was an old nut with dozens of cycles of on/off. Cautionary tale there.
Replacing the axle and nut with a titanium set.
https://www.dhmotoring.com/collections/2014-2020-honda-grom-monkey/products/dhmtiaxles?variant=31697725096039
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baah piffle !! you have some custom fit pre formed helicoil there. snake that bugger back in she'll be just fine! 8)
Aaron
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Finally I installed the EBC disk MD618.
Not because the OEM Brembo was worn out, it had still 4.7 mm after 87,000 km.
I had the EBC disc laying around for a long time and just wanted to see if it really fits.
It does! And it works well with the red Brembo pads.
On first sight the EBC does not look that much different.
Just in case someone is wondering, I also replaced the unsightly disc screws against some blingy titanium 😅
Please note that you will need some washers underneath the ABS ring and you might need another washer underneath the ABS sensor screw otherwise the sensor could scrape against the ring.
@jotjotde Thanks for the picture. I’m a bit puzzled, though, because on your actual disc the hole pattern looks quite different from the one shown on the EBC website (https://ebcbikes.com/products/ebc-ebc-hpsr-solid-disc-md618).
Edit: Just realized that the site isn’t the official EBC one. The official site (https://www.ebcbrakes.com/), however, doesn’t list the MD618 at all. This (https://auto-trend24.de/?id=MD618) looks like the real thing.
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@jotjotde , is this the one you are using? Taller height is a real benefit. 18mm.
The stock nut does not offer much material for the socket to grab on to.
https://www.probolt-usa.com/titanium-flanged-axle-nut-m25x-1-50mm-drilled-rear-wheel-tinut25150003dz2/
Sorry, I was away for some days.
@Pard
That is exactly the nut I got from Pro-Bolt. It is not very thick (high) as well, but I never had any issues with removing or reassembly. The golden hue is disappearing slowly by the use but that's only cosmetics.
I strongly agree with Aaron to not use an aluminium nut here. It's the wrong material for this.
The front nut though is made of aluminium, but it is technically totally different. It's approx. 25 mm high and double secured by the two axle pincing srews.
The titanium axles for your other bike look surely nice! I already looked for something similar for our Energicas, but could not find anything.
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@chisquare
Yes, that latter one seems to be the right one. If you happen to travel through Germany I could sell you the contour disc from EBC for a bargain price.
I bought it bc it looks nice but I was afraid I will not get through the technical check next year because it is obviously not an original part.
As already mentioned, you will need 5 washers size M8 to fill the 'grooves' of the disc. Otherwise the screws would damage the ABS ring.
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Thanks for the info and the offer. To avoid the risk of failing next year's vehicle inspection, I went with a Brembo OEM disc as a replacement.