ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: Specter on November 05, 2023, 07:20:18 AM
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Quick question about regen on the EVA Ribelle, (and id assume the other bikes as well)
I run my regen on high, I like it there, it gives a nice solid braking when needed.
You can kind of control the amount of regen being applied by how far you twist back your throttle. Just letting a teeny off and you coast, a teeny bit more and you regena little, a teeny bit more and it's moderate, a lil more and it's hitting pretty hard, enough to pull you forward in the seat with a fair amount of force.
My question is, it seems the range of twist, in your throttle, to take regen from costing, to full regen is maybe like 10 percent of the throttle range.
Is there any way to open up the span a bit on the throttle twist, so it's maybe like 20 percent or so throttle span to finally hit full regen? This would give you a little more resolution in the level of control you have on the regen to fine tune how much is applied.
I understand that there is no solid number for percent throttle twist to do this, as it all depends on your speed, throttle position to begin with bla bla, but is there a way to open up the 'available span' a bit more so it don't max out so early? It's almost like the regen input is rooted or something, can it be made, more linear? If that makes sense.
or IS there a setting and I missed it somewhere?
Thanks
Aaron
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There isn’t in my Zero. I love the regen on my Tesla, which is very linear and also reacts very slowly. It’s easy to control it precisely. The Zero is a pain in the ass.
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For me on my SS9+RS the medium regen profile works best. I also manage the amount of regen breaking power by the throttle position. With the high regen setting I find it harder to find a smooth line with the bike. With a wider "span" I may be using the high position, too.
Ideally, this span would be an additional parameter that can be set in the profile screen. Alternatively, the span could be increased generally in firmware. I wouldn't want it to be changed in the medium profile, only in the high one.
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Hello,
I plan on possibly making a regen lever for my Eva. In that case, the throttle signal will be run through a microcontroller first and be mixed with the regen lever, to create any output I want.
Even without the regen lever, it is of course possible to use a microcontroller in between the throttle and the bike to implement any mapping you want.
best regards
DerKrawallkeks
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Does that bike have a regen input in the controller? I don't think the Zero does, but now I wonder. I did program in a regen input on a custom e-bike with one of the generic Chinese controllers, which worked pretty well. And then a couple weeks later, the magic smoke left the motor and it locked up. Coincidence? Dunno.
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Hey, the energica inverter is proprietary I think, so there's no way to add a Regen lever.
The Zero inverter is a Second off-the-shelf component, and you can quite easily connect a regen lever (I did it, and many others too).
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Everything I can find is very old. Is there reason to believe this also works on the current generation bikes?
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Aaron,
I agree with you that to have some sort of modulation in the activation of the regen would be a good thing on my Experia. I sometimes wish for a clutch lever at slow speeds! What I mean by that is both a modulation of the throttle and regen in the instance of coming up to a stoplight. It was (and still is) a learning experience when in that situation of having too much power or regen coming to a stop, even with riding the rear brake, etc etc, "traditional" ways of "looking proficient" coming to a stop.
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I agree with you that to have some sort of modulation in the activation of the regen would be a good thing on my Experia.
The regen on your Experia can be modulated based on throttle position. The closer the throttle is to being fully closed the higher the total regen will be. The max value of regen will depend on what regen map you have selected.
Applying a small amount of throttle, between fully closed and ~5% open will change the amount of regen. Once you get a feel for this it is also possible to coast, meaning the bike is neither accelerating or decelerating.
Ideally, this span would be an additional parameter that can be set in the profile screen. Alternatively, the span could be increased generally in firmware. I wouldn't want it to be changed in the medium profile, only in the high one.
I agree it would be helpful in some situations to be able to configure the "ramping" of the regen.
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commodore you Do have a bit of modulation on your regen.
That is the reason of my post, it's pretty finicky until you get the hang of it.
It don't take much at all to set it and the adjustment is rather 'strong'.
I was asking, can they open up the span on the adjustment a bit so it isn't so abrupt?
Get on the highway or somewhere where you won't annoy people too bad with the constant braking and practice with it. Just a tiny roll off the throttle, you can kind of feel where it lets loose with the accel and will just coast, now a tiny bit more down and it'll regen a little, maybe drop you to whatever your speed would be at, with the throttle at that position. Turn it a bit more and it will regen harder. You don't have to turn much, it's touchy.
With a little practice you will get to where you can pretty much stop with just regen alone, only using the brakes in the last 2 or 3 feet for a solid stop and to hold the bike so it don't creep. I like mine on high, Id probably say most wouldn't like it because it can be so abrupt and severe but once yu get used to it, it's pretty decent and does put a bit back into the battery. Try with your regen in mid range you may appreciate it a bit better. That seems milder, yet still has a definite presence.,
Another thing you can do to practice is get on a side road or something and jack it back and forth, turn your throttle ehh, what half an inch?? whatever it takes to bounce the bike between accel and deccel via regen, feeling the throttle as you bounce back and forth between the two zones, without getting stupid on the accel, bump it a bit harder, a bit softer, FEEL how it feels on your hand and the amount of twist necessary to trigger it, to boost it, to REALLY set it in. Taper it off, let it slide down a bit more as the bike slows, feel, get the tracking technique down, Get that muscle memory training and before you know it, it'll almost be like second nature like shifting on an ICE bike. You'll be gliding to a smooth stop without even thinking about it really. At this point, you will realize, wow, I really LIKE this regen thing ! :D
Aaron
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I just have regen on max and sport mode all the time, took a while to get used to it but now I basicly ride on the throttle alone with friction brakes for when I need to shed speed a bit harder.
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I'll goto rain mode when its wet outside, otherwise sport mode all the time.
The rain is really helpful, sometimes you can gun it a bit too hard not even trying to when it's slick out and rm helps prevent you from doing something stupid, requiring help to pick the bike back up :D
Aaron
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Actually, I think the Ribelle is the easiest bike I've ever had to pick up, including my old 125.
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With all the hardware in my back, my neck, my rebuilt shoulder, tore ass up ankles, etc etc. yah I need help. or better yet, maybe I should learn not to drop the thing ! :D
Aaron
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Eh, everyone does it at some time, no shame
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There isn’t in my Zero. I love the regen on my Tesla, which is very linear and also reacts very slowly. It’s easy to control it precisely. The Zero is a pain in the ass.
Interesting, as I cannot stand the way Regen works on my 2018 Tesla M3 after seeing the way it works on my 2022 Chevy Bolt.
With the Chevy Bolt I can adjust the regen as I drive with the level on the Steering wheel. Makes the car fun to drive. I rarely touch the brake pedal.
The Chevy Bolt has progressive regen with the brake pedal. The harder it is pressed, the more regen. I think the brake pads are only there for when fully charged as then there is no regen.
The KW shows right on the screen at all times during any type of regen.
Tesla only has deceleration regen. Adds nothing with the brake pedal. No steering wheel regen control. Does not show on the screen as KW.
IMO, regen should always be added with the brake pedal. You want to stop then anyway. Zero has this. So does the Chevy Bolt. Tesla and Energica does not.
-Don- Reno, NV
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The Tesla does have an energy display, and it's vastly more detailed than the Bolt's. I never want to have to use the brake pedal at all. I want full regen to happen when the pedal is released. This is what the Tesla does and you see it on the display.
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If it's applied properly, Regen in theory should be able to stop the car just as fast as regular brakes, they can dyna brake that motor into rotor lock if they want to, but of course ABS would not let that happen. yes it would save a lot of wear and tear on the brakes, and maybe use them only for as said, when there is nowhere to put the regenerated power, or in an absolute standing on the brake pedal emergency stop.
I like the regen on the throttle on a bike, that is the best place IMO so you can control how little or how much with just a slight twist of the throttle, and not have to play with the brakes too. Because think about it, if you are letting the throttle completely off, you are getting ready to stop right? So why not have the throttle give you a variable input to the braking.
Another point, when you apply the brakes on a car, they ALL engage ALL the time, on a motorcycle, YOU decide which one you want to apply, rear, front, or both, so the logic that drives a cars brakes won't necessarily work on a bike, hence putting it on the brake pedal, ok WHICH brake pedal?
Less inputs to have to juggle.
Aaron
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The Tesla does have an energy display, and it's vastly more detailed than the Bolt's. I never want to have to use the brake pedal at all. I want full regen to happen when the pedal is released. This is what the Tesla does and you see it on the display.
Where to you see the real time KW used and gained on the Tesla screen? On the Bolt, I do NOT have to look for it. It is always on the display. But I could not find it at all on my 2018 Tesla M3 even when I did look for it. But I can find KWH used per trip and stuff like that, which both cars have.
I also almost never use the brake pedal. Both cars have "one pedal driving".
I realize it's a personal preference, but I normally prefer light deceleration regen but heavy as needed as I drive or need to stop. I can do this as I drive the Bolt, but not the Tesla.
-Don- Reno, NV
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It'd be too expensive to be practical but, wouldn't it be interesting if you could put some motors on a regular ICE car's axles, with some batteries, wouldn't need super beefcakes of either, but, just have that kick in high every time you brake, to slowly charge the battery with every stop. When you get home, plug in and put into your house or sell back to grid. Otherwise it's just wasted energy. Or maybe a train, have a few cars with a big motor on the axle, and a 40 kw/hr battery, just to throw out a number, and every time it stops, it just grinds that down into charging the battery, when you pull in, plug in and free power.
Aaron
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So...a hybrid?
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Well, I guess you sort of could call it a Hybrid, although the electric part is really not doing any propulsion. How about a waste energy capture system. The inertia would just be converted to heat otherwise.
Aaron
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I realize it's a personal preference, but I normally prefer light deceleration regen but heavy as needed as I drive or need to stop. I can do this as I drive the Bolt, but not the Tesla.
Which makes it not one pedal, and unintiutive. The regen and acceleration should follow one curve on the one pedal, from go to stop.
I don't know how to guide you on the steps to display energy in the Tesla, it's in that app tray that was added a couple years ago. Before that it was hidden in a menu. I find it totally useless unless I'm actively managing power. When I towed the Zero home, I was using it to manage consumption with a trailer.
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Which makes it not one pedal, and unintiutive. The regen and acceleration should follow one curve on the one pedal, from go to stop.
Nope. It is still one pedal driving without using the regen lever, it simply gives me better control over the stopping distance as needed.
-Don- Reno, NV
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You either get 100% regen with one pedal, or you do not. It's that simple. I've driven the Bolt in both modes, you cannot have full regen on one pedal, plus more on the other. It's one or the other.
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You either get 100% regen with one pedal, or you do not. It's that simple. I've driven the Bolt in both modes, you cannot have full regen on one pedal, plus more on the other. It's one or the other.
Which year Bolt? On my 2022 it is progressive regen with the brake pedal. The harder I brake, the more KW in regen.
That is unlike my Zero motorcycles where the brake regen is the percentage it is set for whenever the brake light is activated.
I normally do not like a lot of deceleration regen. While I can lower it with the Tesla, I cannot change it for each stop as I drive, while I can with the Bolt.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Yes, exactly, the Bolt has progressive regen with the brake pedal. That means you don't get 100% regen braking with a single pedal. That's my point. Two different styles.
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Yes, exactly, the Bolt has progressive regen with the brake pedal. That means you don't get 100% regen braking with a single pedal. That's my point. Two different styles.
You will if you press the brake pedal hard enough. But I rarely use the brake pedal at all. It too is set for "one pedal driving" which increases the low-speed deceleration regen. I find the Bolt a lot more fun to drive than my Tesla and I miss the way the regen works on the bolt when I do drive my Tesla. But the Tesla has a lot of good points too. They are both EVs, but they do not compare at all.
Tesla adds nothing at all with the brake pedal--same with Energica. But they both can have a lot of deceleration regen to the point where it makes little difference anyway. But I normally prefer the Bolt and Zero method of lighter deceleration regen until the brake is used. Most of my driving is on the freeway. I like the heavy deceleration regen only when in city traffic and going down steep curvy roads, such as the Mt. Rose Highway here near Reno.
IMO, perfect would be to increase declaration regen automatedly as speed is increased and to be able to adjust the ratio by how much wanted and also to automatically increase regen when going downhill. We already have the technology to do such, but I do not know of any EVs that can do such automatically.
-Don- Reno, NV
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You kind of do, it's called cruise control. If you have it set at 60 MPH, it will add power to maintain that speed when needed, and if you are going down a steep enough hill that you can actually pick up speed, it should regen enough to also maintain that 60 mph. Doing ANY kind of regen that slows you down to the point you have to add additional power to maintain your intended speed is a waste of energy. Regen for pretty much all practical driving, is just to recover energy while you are intending to slow down, otherwise it's a slow burn.
Aaron
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Hello,
I plan on possibly making a regen lever for my Eva. In that case, the throttle signal will be run through a microcontroller first and be mixed with the regen lever, to create any output I want.
Even without the regen lever, it is of course possible to use a microcontroller in between the throttle and the bike to implement any mapping you want.
best regards
DerKrawallkeks
Yes it should work use a quadrilateral shift circuit followed by a flip/flop coupled to a Schmidt trigger on the output.
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Connected to the negative sinusoidal deplenaration input of the retroencabulator.
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Hello,
I plan on possibly making a regen lever for my Eva. In that case, the throttle signal will be run through a microcontroller first and be mixed with the regen lever, to create any output I want.
Even without the regen lever, it is of course possible to use a microcontroller in between the throttle and the bike to implement any mapping you want.
best regards
DerKrawallkeks
Yes it should work use a quadrilateral shift circuit followed by a flip/flop coupled to a Schmidt trigger on the output.
I know everyone finds this funny but seriously though, any way we can get a regen lever? Would energica themselves ever do it for the people? :'(
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WHY?
you have full control of your regen by how much you let off your throttle already. Turn your regen to max and then use your throttle lever to control how much of it actually kicks in. Otherwise, imo, it's just reinventing the wheel and another input to have to manage.
Aaron
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I leave mine on max all the time, I keep hearing it's more efficient to turn it off for cruising but you can just hold the throttle neutral and if that's annoying to you then just give your handlebars the reacharound so you can cruisecontrol it. I just don't understand what scenario you would possibly want *less* regen.
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Yeah, I'm not following the desire for seperately adjustable regen. In both the bmw and energicas I've ridden, when set to max (other modes limit the maximum available regen), regen is already infinitely adjustable just by using the throttle. Maybe its just I spent most of my on road riding on electric bikes and learned to treat a partially open throtttle as neutral, with anything less acting in place of rear brake and people that didn't learn using the throttle this way aren't used to it?
I've also read that due to energy conversion losses, in flowing riding/driving regen is less efficient than the hypermiling technique of getting slowly to speed and then coasting. In any scenario where braking forces are required (lights, traffic etc) however, regen does capture energy that would otherwise be lost to heat/noise.
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Yeah, I'm not following the desire for seperately adjustable regen.
My Chevy Bolt has such and I really like it. I prefer the light regen that is not so touchy and being able to increase it at any time withOUT using a touchy throttle or pedal.
The Bolt is also more fun to drive than is my Tesla because of it. On the Bolt, the regen level is on the left side of the steering wheel. I miss NOT having it in my Tesla.
Yes, I realize you can keep regen at the very max and then have very little or none at all by using the throttle. Same with all the other modes that do nothing except limit us. IOW, keep it in sport mode and drive like you're in eco mode. Same with regen. But it does NOT compare, IMO.
Perhaps it is just my personal preference but do not knock in until you have tried the regen lever.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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Leave it to DT to bring a car to a bike forum ::)
If you want your regen less sensitive, then turn the setting down a notch or two, you have several settings to control it's max already.
If you are cruising, then yah i'd just turn it off, because you at that point, are not really changing speeds much to begin with (until the cars get in your way) and freewheeling of course saves energy over braking, but if you need any kind of intentional slowdown, greater than just natural friction / air resistance etc, then regen is more efficient.
I have not really seen this on my Ribelle, basically because Florida is pretty flat, but Id assume if you were in a real hilly / mountainous area and peaked, coming down, you could use regen to control your speed and put some of that energy spent climbing up the mountain, back into the battery .vs. having to brake to control your speed descending. At the end of the day though, the only energy you are recapturing is, the last acceleration / or last climb, whichever applies !
@Grauteufel I think you make an excellent point. Those who learned on ICE bikes, have it set in their minds, THAT is the way to ride, and the regen is a whole DIFFERENT idea to them, and just like anything else, learning something different, can sometimes be harder than learning something new, because you keep trying to compare it to what you believe you already know. Those who learned ON the electric bike though, learned from the beginning how to use it and it's pretty much muscle memory now and they don't even think much on it anymore, just do it. Im finding this when I let people try my bike, with full regen, and they are like holy shit that's strong, Ill tell them, think of it as your rear brake, it takes a little getting used to but use the throttle to manip it, not just on - off like you are used to along with the clutch, and once you DO master that, it's a very powerful tool IMO.
Im trying to imagine a paddle on the bike, ok so you are fiddling with a regen paddle, you still will need to remove throttle if you are regen / braking right? , so it's basically another input to manage. If you want to load up into a turn of something, then rear brake it.... or regen it, because you are STILL under power and the ratio you need, is pretty much preset by the nature of the way it works!
Maybe im missing something, would there be any reason you'd want to regen while keeping the same throttle power on? If it's for power braking, then why not just use the rear brake which you are already used to?
Aaron
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Leave it to DT to bring a car to a bike forum ::)
If you want your regen less sensitive, then turn the setting down a notch or two, you have several settings to control it's max already.
If you are cruising, then yah i'd just turn it off, because you at that point, are not really changing speeds much to begin with (until the cars get in your way) and freewheeling of course saves energy over braking, but if you need any kind of intentional slowdown, greater than just natural friction / air resistance etc, then regen is more efficient.
I have not really seen this on my Ribelle, basically because Florida is pretty flat, but Id assume if you were in a real hilly / mountainous area and peaked, coming down, you could use regen to control your speed and put some of that energy spent climbing up the mountain, back into the battery .vs. having to brake to control your speed descending. At the end of the day though, the only energy you are recapturing is, the last acceleration / or last climb, whichever applies !
@Grauteufel I think you make an excellent point. Those who learned on ICE bikes, have it set in their minds, THAT is the way to ride, and the regen is a whole DIFFERENT idea to them, and just like anything else, learning something different, can sometimes be harder than learning something new, because you keep trying to compare it to what you believe you already know. Those who learned ON the electric bike though, learned from the beginning how to use it and it's pretty much muscle memory now and they don't even think much on it anymore, just do it. Im finding this when I let people try my bike, with full regen, and they are like holy shit that's strong, Ill tell them, think of it as your rear brake, it takes a little getting used to but use the throttle to manip it, not just on - off like you are used to along with the clutch, and once you DO master that, it's a very powerful tool IMO.
Im trying to imagine a paddle on the bike, ok so you are fiddling with a regen paddle, you still will need to remove throttle if you are regen / braking right? , so it's basically another input to manage. If you want to load up into a turn of something, then rear brake it.... or regen it, because you are STILL under power and the ratio you need, is pretty much preset by the nature of the way it works!
Maybe im missing something, would there be any reason you'd want to regen while keeping the same throttle power on? If it's for power braking, then why not just use the rear brake which you are already used to?
Aaron
I learned on an ICE bike and have been riding them for 30 years prior to getting the Experia. Probably similar story to many, as these things ain't exactly cheap so you tend to need to have a few miles on the personal odometer before you can afford one... anyway, I think it took me about a hour to get smooth with max regen and one "pedal" driving the Experia, to the point where I don't use the brakes much at all in round town riding, only when getting on it in the twisties.
When I picked up my bike from the firmware update, I didn't bother to check the settings and it had reverted to the lowest regen; coming up to the first stop from speed was like a "no brakes" experience.
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that's kind of funny weck, I did that a few times taking it out after a full charge and it's at 100 percent. Another time I got a bit of a startle was after running the race bike for 4 days straight, I got used to that and the stupid insane brakes on that, where you just gently bring them on and you stop NOW! Then I get on the road bike and im stopping and it's like oh what the hell? stop STOP !! oh, this is the Ribelle, you gotta pull the brakes hard here :) This is also one of the reasons I want to try to make the street and race bike as similar as possible so there are not these differences when I hope between them. Besides, nothing wrong with having strong brakes anywhere, it's the weaker ones that make you get grey hair!
Aaron
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reverted to the lowest regen; coming up to the first stop from speed was like a "no brakes" experience.
Ha! I've had this momentary ''oh shit'' feeling too at the first turn after the wife turned on rain mode
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another vote for the independent regen control lever.
Not directly applicable, but on my zero and EM bikes I definitely prefer having independent control of regen from throttle. Being able to whack the throttle all the way closed and manage rear wheel speed with just a left index finger (EM regen lever) is so much easier than floating the throttle perfectly around the dead zone on the zero. On steep downhills, locking up the rear can be just as whisky throttling it. On a gas bike I would frequently kill the motor and use the clutch to maintain downhill control.
For street, it may not be nearly as critical but it's nice to have the option for independent control (or even adding zero's "regen on brake light" vs "regen on coast" settings if they don't want to support new control inputs)
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There is a highly interesting article about the engineering that went into a Ribelle which I can recommend. https://www.emobility-engineering.com/energica-eva-ribelle/
About regen:
Testoni explains, “When regen is off, the Eva’s braking feels similar to when braking a bike powered by a two-stroke engine. Low regeneration is like braking with a four-cylinder four-stroke engine, medium regenerative braking is like a three-cylinder, and high regeneration is as a two-cylinder and can allow you to coast down to a complete stop without needing the brakes.”
Not having sat on an ICE for many years I cannot confirm if this is right.
Personally, I use the lightest regen setting. When the bike was new, I fiddled with it, but always returned to that.
BTW I cannot feel a large difference when the regen is off (between 95 and 100 % SoC).
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Personally, I use the lightest regen setting. When the bike was new, I fiddled with it, but always returned to that.BTW I cannot feel a large difference when the regen is off (between 95 and 100 % SoC).
The very best way, IMO, is light regen with a regen lever (as my Chevy Bolt has)which can make the regen as heavy as wanted as needed. I use the regen level to slow down as well to stop. Not much need for the brakes. I wish all my EVs had such.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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jojotide when your SOC is 95 and above, your regen is neutered a bit, as there is not a lot of space to put it in the battery, so it may not work at all or just very lightly. Your regen light should actually be flashing on your dash to indicate that your regen is in a less than ideal mode.
As for just whacking the throttle off and just using the regen paddle as a controlling brake, well, yes thats an option too. However holding the throttle where you want it at, will do the same thing, or setting your cruise control to that speed, if the bike starts speeding up, it'll automatically take the regen to bring it back in speed specs. Out of curiosity, how much of a grade are you on to have the bike be able to actually maintain or keep speed on it's own without any power input? Ive hit a 3.5 degree grade before on a bridge and it still slowed a bit on it's own.
Again, I live in Florida and we dont' have hills and valleys enough to let me enjoy such a scenario. Maybe I need to schedule a sightseeing tour somewhere. Energica is racing the Hooligan in Texas in a few months I think??? Mebbe trailer to hussy there, see the race and find some hilly terrain to play with? Just an idea.
Aaron
Ps. that's another thing that came to mind yesterday, if I am going to be on these road trips, I gotta take the feathered kid with me so Ill need to build a more portable bird cage to keep in the trailer to keep him in during track times :D Otherwise he'll be everywhere attention whoring and stealing snacks!
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I have found a hill or two here and there where max regen can't keep me at the 20 or 30 posted but that's pretty unusual.
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That sounds like it'd actually be a lot of fun, but you better be careful, way easy to get into a bad situation. The run up it though, that's a battery eater! I should probably try the Dames Point again one sunday morning to see what I can do with it, see if i can get any decent self maintaining on the throttle. Unfortunately, often times, the wind coming across that bridge, oof, NOT fun.
Aaron
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jojotide when your SOC is 95 and above, your regen is neutered a bit, as there is not a lot of space to put it in the battery, so it may not work at all or just very lightly. Your regen light should actually be flashing on your dash to indicate that your regen is in a less than ideal mode.
As for just whacking the throttle off and just using the regen paddle as a controlling brake, well, yes thats an option too. However holding the throttle where you want it at, will do the same thing, or setting your cruise control to that speed, if the bike starts speeding up, it'll automatically take the regen to bring it back in speed specs. Out of curiosity, how much of a grade are you on to have the bike be able to actually maintain or keep speed on it's own without any power input? Ive hit a 3.5 degree grade before on a bridge and it still slowed a bit on it's own.
Confirming all that (yellow regen flashing in display above 95 % SoC) I still cannot say that I feel lots of difference. But that might be because I usually am fresh on the bike after charging to 100 % and usually then I am taking a road with a weeny bit of slope. I have no measured numbers, it's just a feeling... Just wanted to know if anyone noticed the same. At least it's not a OMG NO REGEN feeling :)
With regen at lowest setting I can go down a 10 % slope (at least that is the roadsign saying) at 50 kph with throttle totally closed.
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that's kind of funny weck, I did that a few times taking it out after a full charge and it's at 100 percent. Another time I got a bit of a startle was after running the race bike for 4 days straight, I got used to that and the stupid insane brakes on that, where you just gently bring them on and you stop NOW! Then I get on the road bike and im stopping and it's like oh what the hell? stop STOP !! oh, this is the Ribelle, you gotta pull the brakes hard here :) This is also one of the reasons I want to try to make the street and race bike as similar as possible so there are not these differences when I hope between them. Besides, nothing wrong with having strong brakes anywhere, it's the weaker ones that make you get grey hair!
Aaron
Odd thing, on the Experia anyway, is that the regen does not seem to be decreased al all when you charge to 100%. I've had a couple times where I think I got may have got over 100, or at least it took a good 4-5 miles for the SOC to drop to 99%. Even then, had max regen available from the end of the driveway. Wonder if it's because the pack has over a KW of headspace in it rated vs usable?
(I only charge to 100% the recommended once a month and make sure I have a log ride planned within a couple of hours of topping it off)
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Odd thing, on the Experia anyway, is that the regen does not seem to be decreased al all when you charge to 100%. I've had a couple times where I think I got may have got over 100, or at least it took a good 4-5 miles for the SOC to drop to 99%. Even then, had max regen available from the end of the driveway. Wonder if it's because the pack has over a KW of headspace in it rated vs usable?
(I only charge to 100% the recommended once a month and make sure I have a log ride planned within a couple of hours of topping it off)
"Seem" is correct. Look at your regen bar. You will see NO Regen at all when charged to 100% until your down a % or two. But the feel is exactly the same.
I have no idea how that works, where that juice is going--perhaps a big dummy load resistor of some type? But it is NOT being used to charge the battery until you get down a % or two.
-Don- Reno, NV
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SOLVED (at least for me): No regen means no regen
Instead of guessing more, I took the opportunity of a fully charged bike and a slope near my home to test.
As mentioned above, there is a difference between the speeds you reach downhill with throttle closed with regen on or off (lightest setting). It is not eye popping but measurable.
Interestingly, the power bar in the display (green bar going to the right if power is spent, blue bar to the left while regen) went blue all the way to the left even though there was actually no regen.
Makes no sense. Probably something very low on Energica's to-do-list...
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SOLVED (at least for me): No regen means no regen
Instead of guessing more, I took the opportunity of a fully charged bike and a slope near my home to test.
As mentioned above, there is a difference between the speeds you reach downhill with throttle closed with regen on or off (lightest setting). It is not eye popping but measurable.
Interestingly, the power bar in the display (green bar going to the right if power is spent, blue bar to the left while regen) went blue all the way to the left even though there was actually no regen.
Makes no sense. Probably something very low on Energica's to-do-list...
Re-gen doesn't work if the battery is fully charged, it's hard to recharge the battery when already full.
Smithy.
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I think the regen power bar pretty much scales to the mode it's either put in by you, or forced in due to external circumstances, ie a high battery, rough terrain etc forced it to a lower setting.
So lets say level 1 is 5 kw max regen Lv 4 is 30 kw max.
even though you may have set it to 4, the battery is high, or it auto scaled down and is temporarily at lv 1, and you are putting 5 kw into the battery. You may not see it but you sure can feel it's only 5 ie mild regen vs 30 half your BW bring pushed to the windshield. now what YOU have it set at, 4, that 5kw that's only like 20 percent of the full scale which is what you expect to see, given YOU put it on Lv 4, but where it currently is set at (temporary 1), that's full scale, so it shows that.
I wouldn't worry too much about that little part of it.
Aaron
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I leave mine on max all the time, I keep hearing it's more efficient to turn it off for cruising but you can just hold the throttle neutral and if that's annoying to you then just give your handlebars the reacharound so you can cruisecontrol it. I just don't understand what scenario you would possibly want *less* regen.
Tbh, I want a clutch, so I can do clutch wheelies and other fun activities. J/k
But seriously, having to reach over for cruise control sucks, rewiring it is a good second. I do want to treat it like a clutch and be able to let go of my right hand quickly without slowing down, reaching over for cc, or going into settings.
A regen lever also adds more regen granularity without having to sacrifice throttle granularity. Plus its not unintuitive, and is really not complicated.
I'll probably put a rear brake on my left handlebar for fun though.
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Actually, I think the Ribelle is the easiest bike I've ever had to pick up, including my old 125.
I want to know how. I have an easy time picking up other bikes, but not the ribelle. how heavy must your 125 be to compare to the ribelle.
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Could be that Stonewolf is 6'6" and built like a brick privy...
Cas :)
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I definitely am not lol. The Ribelle's weight distribution makes it much easier, the mass is closer to the pivot (the wheels) and your lift is much further out which means you have much better leverage than it does. My 125 wasn't exactly heavy by general standards but a Varadero is heavy by 125 standards and tall with the mass further out from the pivot as a result (also 20 years ago my lift technique probably wasn't the best).
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When lifting up a dropped Energica, do you rely on the Bullet brake, or do you take additional measures, like clamping the brake lever with a tool or a rubber band, to ensure the bike doesn't roll away? It hasn't happened to me yet, but I wonder just in case.
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It hasn't been necessary but I do keep a little velcro strap on the bar for holding the front brake when parking on inclines so if I felt I needed to I'd use that.
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Ah, velcro is a good idea. Since my Bullet Brake v1 broke during use, I often carry a Brakefix tool, although the BB v2 has worked well so far. However, it attracts a bit too much attention when fixing the bike on an incline and might tempt someone to fiddle with it. The Velcro will be much less noticeable and certainly won't get stolen.
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I use this thingie. Cost only a few bucks at Aliexpress. Ordered several ones as a gift for my bike buddies.
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Basicly one of the little velcro straps you get with a camera or whatever (I've forgotten where this one came from) and never use for its intended purpose. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best.
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Big fat rubber band and a few turns on it should work too, or a piece of string and a few winds and tightening on it. Many simple ways.
Aaron