ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: jotjotde on July 07, 2023, 12:16:28 PM
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Hi there,
For some time now I have a pulsation when front-braking but which is better described as a breaking/non-breaking action in sync with the wheel turning. Especially felt at low speed. I hoped this would fade over time, but that does not seem to be the case.
The lever is not pulsating, so I rule out a hydraulics problem. Research on the web told me that could be either grease on the discs or uneven disc wear, so I cleaned the discs with breaks cleaner but to no avail. Overall breaking performance at high speed appears OK, ABS is working.
Any advice is highly appreciated!
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Not sure if this is relevant for your situation but here we go anyway ;).
I bought my SS9+RS used with about 3000 miles in one year on it. It was generally ok looked after but there was a problem with the front brakes - just as you described. No security issue but irritating.
Turned out the previous owner drove the bike in winter and let it stand without cleaning the discs. Due to the salt they developped rust in one spot, under the brake pads. No way to remove that chemically as it ate away material. My mechanic advised me not to try (professional) sanding/abrading. Costs wouldn't be much lower and the result uncertain. I had to have the discs changed.
Hope your issue is less severe and you find a good and not too expensive solution.
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Chis, thx for the quick reply!
I didn't clean the discs but I used the bike throughout winter when the weather allowed it. Apparently it is on one disc only, otherwise the frequency of the pulses would be different.
Changing one disc only - would that be OK or do you rather change both?
The other question: Do you happen to have the spec of the discs? On the Brembo website I can find the brake pads but nothing for the discs. A Google search results in the following:
Brembo Oro brake disc for Energica EsseEsse 9 MY>18
Brembo Part Number 78B408B2
Diameter 330 mm
Inner Diameter 72 mm
Bolt circle 90 mm
Disc thickness 5 mm
Cost between 190 and 300 Euro per piece (ouch!)
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Hi jotjotde,
I looked up the invoice, but there was no official number/code for the discs. Not even specifications. Only the price (CHF 235 per piece). Sry.
As the Ribelle and the SS9 have the very same brakes, I guess the spec you found must be correct.
Cheers,
Urs
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Take a good look at the disc, a sideways glance, looking down the axis of the front face / rear face. Can you see any spots on it where it may look rougher etc?
Agreed, sanding or anything like that really does not help, would only make you eat brakes faster, and could damage stuff. What about the brake pads themselves? Do they look ok? have a spot in them or anything? Is there any warping?
Aaron
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I had a similar problem with my 2018 Zero S. It was solved with a new set of EBC brake pads. I have had no more front brake pulsing since installing those pads about 10K miles ago.
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Jotjot, are you sure it is not the very common issue of warped brake discs? I’d recommend to measure the parallelity of the discs to rule that out.
I saw a posting on FB once where someone pretended to resolve that by careful cleaning of the disc floaters. Will give it a try myself before filing in a warranty claim (my Energica discs begin to wobble). I had this on my Ribelle as well - but not at all on my EsseEsse9+.
I wasn’t able to find the Energica/Brembo brake discs. The Oro type you’ve mentioned above are optically different to the ones Energica fits on the bikes - although they might fit physically. But the same also goes for the calipers - I was comparing the Energica’s calipers with Brembo’s aftermarket portfolio - looks like they sell special made equipment to the OEMs that are not publically available in the aftermarket business…
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Thanks @all for your valuable input!
I am still doubting that it is a problem of the brake pads which look OK to me. The pulsation in sync with the wheel turns lets me still think it is something coming from one disc.
Visually I cannot see anything, the dics wear appears very even and I cannot detect any wobbling.
As explained this is not a safety issue (I think). I will monitor it and when the next tire or brake pad change is due, I will ask the workshop to have a closer look.
Then I hope, I can see if any parts number is visible.
@most:
Warped discs - idk how could that happen, hot spot due to emergency breaking?
Cleaning the floaters - how can I do this? Flooding them with brake cleaner or WD40?
The discs were OK for several thousand kilometers, do you think I could claim this under warranty?
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@most:
Warped discs - idk how could that happen, hot spot due to emergency breaking?
My guess is as good as yours, so I will not speculate. I just see many claims regarding warped front brake discs and already had my Ribelle‘s discs changed under warranty TWICE.
Cleaning the floaters - how can I do this? Flooding them with brake cleaner or WD40?
Didn‘t do it myself yet - but yes, cleaning with brake cleaner would be my 1st choice. WD40 probably not as it contains anti-corrosives. I‘d avoid this stuff on my discs by all means…
The discs were OK for several thousand kilometers, do you think I could claim this under warranty?
I would claim anything that is less then perfect on the bike. Your 25000 (probably more) money units have been flawless, haven’t they? So why should you accept any flaws on the bike? However, I always factor in a good working relationship with the shop. So careful consideration and reasonable approach is king…
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8M6imPF0Mk
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Thanks for the quick replies!
So I will try cleaning the floater this evening (without WD40 :D) and give you feedback about this. If that doesn't do the trick, I will talk to my dealer.
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Pard, I am going to have to say the WD-40 is not a good choice. It has moved over the years from being a decent lube to mostly a detergent now and does not do a very good for long job of lubrication anymore, IMO. Ie the quality has gone down over the years, gee whuda thunkit!
IF you must, Id use a 3 in 1 oil or a decent lube that will last a bit. I wonder what a silicone would do. The biggest concern is when the 40 starts drying out it will get sticky and grab every speck of dust that gets there and that thing will become a sticky mud cake and cause more problems that you started with.
The part about cleaning very well with brake cleaner, yes a good idea, ALSO, be VERY careful NOT to get any of that oil on your brake pads, No you can't really wash it off, NO it won't wear off, and can cause them to give you grief, especially on a hard or prolonged stop once that spot heats up and glazing that nasty oil in it.
I have seen pads that look fine, but when you used them they grabbed, chattered. There could be cracking you don't see, and once you put forces on it, and it heats up, things don't work right. Pads are relatively cheap, brakes are ...relatively vital.. don't skimp.
Aaron
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When cleaning the rotors you might also want to scrub them with a plastic dish washing scrubbing pad while using your brake cleaner. Then of course, toss the scrubbing pad away. ;)
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Energica use OEM Brembo Ducati Scrambler rotors. I had a pair that were extremely out of true. Also judder. Got a replacement ( dealer and me split, Energica did not warrant), these are better, although I have again some brake judder at 100km/h and the sensation of uneven friction. For a replacement I will go for at least serie Oro in the future, because quality of the (probably outsourced by Brembo) rotors is disappointing.
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Bad news: Cleaning the floaters with brake cleaner unfortunately did not change anything. Wait, that's not true! Afterwards I was floating as well because of the fumes ;D
To summarize so far:
All this makes me come to the conclusion that one of the discs is worn unevenly, probably due to corrosion on one spot e.g. underneath a brake pad during one or two weeks standstill in wintertime as suggested by @chisquare.
If the disc would be warped or not being true as indicated by @most I think I would feel the brake lever pulsating - wouldn't I?
@Richard230 wrote, a brake pad change helped to eradicate the pulsating.
I am probably due for brake pad change within the next month and I will report if this was successful. Maybe I will let the shop change the discs as well, but spending those 500 Euros is something I am not keen to do ::)
Regarding OEM brake discs:
Spending quality time with the discs yesterday evening made me realise that @most & @SBK74 were right noting that the original discs are optically different from the Brembo Oro 78B408B2 which appear to be the right choice at least for EsseEsse and Ribelle. For everyone intending to change the front brake discs, I attached the official flyer of Brembo.
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If the disc would be warped or not being true as indicated by @most I think I would feel the brake lever pulsating - wouldn't I?
Possibly, a warped rotor would cause the brake pad to be pushed away from the disc surface. This would apply force to the pistons in the caliper, resulting in feedback at the brake lever. However the feedback at the lever might be so minimal that you would not feel it, also the ABS system might dampen this feedback.
You might want to try a alternate approach to freeing up the rotor buttons
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5F6Yc9cuDo&t=1s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5F6Yc9cuDo&t=1s)
Removing your calipers (one at a time) and giving them a good cleaning would be my next suggestion. Buildup of brake dust can prevent the pistons from moving freely. Remove the pads (taking note so you can put them back in the same position). Use the brake lever to extend the pistons (only 1mm or so) and clean their surface with a tooth brush. If one of the pistons is not extending you can use blocks of wood to prevent the other pistons from moving. Be careful, it is possible to push the pistons too far. Once clean push each piston back into the caliper and reinstall the pads. Take note of the fluid level in the reservoir as it will fill as the pistons move into the caliper.
When you reinstall the calipers make sure you "set" their position. Torque to 40Nm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivt7EPe0jeY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivt7EPe0jeY)
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Hi,
i had the same issue with significant brake judder. It was only when braking rather light, e.g. when stopping at a traffic light, no issues when braking hard.
Cleaning the rivets (with the method from the video linked by Demoni), cleaning the pistons, aligning the fork legs, and setting the caliper positions (linked video) solved the problem for me.
Best, Jens
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Hello, I'm from Switzerland and switching to electric bikes to replace my gas ones (Surron Lightbee for the small off-road tracks, DSR/X for the trail, and now an Eva Ribelle to have fun and go on the race track.
I got the infamous pulsating braking. Check rotor warp, less than 1/10 mm which I guess is ok. Rotating each of the rotor buttons as suggested in this post, did not help.
According to the Energica dealer, this can be some of the brake pad material that has migrated into the disc, and suggest replacing the discs.
I can, of course, clean the piston's brakes and re-align the calliper as suggested (thanks for the video), but I doubt this will solve the problem.
So I guess I will likely have to replace the rotors and think of putting the 78B408B2 Oro models (Seems I can get them here in Europe for about 200 € to 250 € each).
Any suggestion besides the Oro discs and also for the brake pads?
Thanks for your advice :-)
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I had a similar problem with the front brake of my 2018 Zero S. After cleaning the disc surface there still wasn't much improvement. However, I replaced the original J.J. Juan brake pads with EBC H-H pads and that solved my pulsing issue - and it never returned. :)
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Hello, I'm from Switzerland and switching to electric bikes to replace my gas ones (Surron Lightbee for the small off-road tracks, DSR/X for the trail, and now an Eva Ribelle to have fun and go on the race track.
I got the infamous pulsating braking. Check rotor warp, less than 1/10 mm which I guess is ok. Rotating each of the rotor buttons as suggested in this post, did not help.
According to the Energica dealer, this can be some of the brake pad material that has migrated into the disc, and suggest replacing the discs.
I can, of course, clean the piston's brakes and re-align the calliper as suggested (thanks for the video), but I doubt this will solve the problem.
So I guess I will likely have to replace the rotors and think of putting the 78B408B2 Oro models (Seems I can get them here in Europe for about 200 € to 250 € each).
Any suggestion besides the Oro discs and also for the brake pads?
Thanks for your advice :-)
Other suggestion is maybe measure thickness. Doesn’t solve the issue, but we learn. Looking closely at the OEM discs, they look like poorly manufactured and aligned. My first set was out of true like 5mm, strange sight. I would go for the Oro Brembos indeed.
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I got the infamous pulsating braking. Check rotor warp, less than 1/10 mm which I guess is ok. Rotating each of the rotor buttons as suggested in this post, did not help.
According to the Energica dealer, this can be some of the brake pad material that has migrated into the disc, and suggest replacing the discs.
I can, of course, clean the piston's brakes and re-align the calliper as suggested (thanks for the video), but I doubt this will solve the problem.
So I guess I will likely have to replace the rotors and think of putting the 78B408B2 Oro models (Seems I can get them here in Europe for about 200 € to 250 € each).
I agree that it can't be brake pad stuff on the disc. Then several hard brakings should remove that stuff or at least make the pulsating less pronounced.
I already have two new Brembos stored here, I will have them installed at next possibility. Found a good price on ebay at a Italian shop in Naples for 370 € for two discs. So I suggest you search online as well to find a good price.
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One potential root cause was nether investigated: The fixing plane of discs to the rim. If the shoulders are not 100% perpendicular to the axle then the floaters will nether be able to compensate. I guess (but don’t know) that those landing spots are machined in the rim, but I nether checked if paint build-up might lead to a tiny lateral runout of the disc.
However, this would have been present from the first mile on. It remains to be clarified if brand new floater *MIGHT* be able to compensate a small lateral runout of the disc due to paint…
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Latest news:
- measured disc thickness in multiple spots and the difference is 3/100 mm (from 4.95 max to 4.92 min)
- Warp less than 1/10 mm
- cleaning calipers, brake piston, all good and working well
- put back carefully the caliper in place following the above video
And ... still the same pulsating braking, the harder I pull the harder the pulsating.
As the disc surface sounds ok along with the brake pads, I tend to believe the Energica CH dealer, something has happen to the discs surface such as brake pad material migration to the disc.
Now, potential solutions
- Seems for some/one, just changing the brake pads solves the issue. I have some doubt it will fix the problem if the above theory is true but ready to try though, any recommendations on the ones I should use ?
- locate the faulty disc and change it to an OEM one plus the associated brake pads. Here I take the risk of same problem appearing again.
- Changing both discs & the brake pads, with the Oro ones, not the cheapest solution but probably the safest one.
Your thoughts and advice welcome
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Is the bike still under warranty? If so then let your dealer solve the issue.
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Is the bike still under warranty? If so then let your dealer solve the issue.
Well, the bike just out of waranty plus the dealer suggested that the issue is due to incorrect running-in and direct me to Brembo web site on how to proceeed, see below.
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Vibrations on the brake disc can occur due to different issues. Here are some of them...:
- Incorrect commissioning of new brakes
=> With new brakes, one should follow a specific procedure with the first braking actions. If one fails to do the first brakings correctly, it can happen, that discs deform or that brake pads "burn" the coating on the disc. Here, the brake pad diffuses onto the brake disk. This feels similar to a warped brake disk.
- Falling down
=> One falls down with the bike and the disc touches any obstacle and deforms
- etc...
How to solve the problem...?
Once the brake discs are warped, the chance to "correct" it by the coccrect way of braking is very small; maybe even impossible. I would suggest changing the damaged disc(s) and maybe also the brake pads. Once done, you should follow the manufacturers (BREMBO) instructions on "How to properly do the first brakings with new pads and discs".
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The brake disc of my Zero were not warped. The EBC pads completely fixed the pulsating issue. While that may not be your problem, a set of pads is a lot less expensive than new discs. In any case, if they don't work and you need to buy new discs, you will need new pads anyway.
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you would not necessarily fell the brake pulsing, as you are not changing the pressure on it. If it's a shitty rotor, it's just hitting a rough spot, the pressure is the same, the friction is changing, which is causing the 'pulling' feeling. If the rotor is not warped, there is no physical change to it's position, which would cause the pressure feedback on the brake handle.
a corrosion spot, or some junk on the pad or rotor could cause that.
Aaron
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Seems chaging the pad by EBC new ones did the trick. Can still feel a little bit of pulsating but much less after 600 kms.
In case it comes back, will let you know.
Thanks for the advice.
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Had a regen issue and had to use front brake and, sigh, pulsating is back unfortunately.
Tried to do a brake-in following this procedure but did not work.
https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php (https://brakeperformance.com/bedding-in-rotors.php)
I guess I’m good for a disc replacement …
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HNY to all of you.
If you search the net, most articles (mostly forums) sound like „avoid high temps for the initial 100km“, but a few also pretend to soon apply emergency brake stops deceleration from 100kmh-20kmh (avoid total stop) to get the system really hot. I always thought the first method is best and treated my Ribelle and Experia that way.
Does anyone have a statement coming from Energica as to how to break-in new brakes AND new rotors properly?
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In my view, kilometer-numbers make absolutely no sense.
My understanding is, the advice is to avoid emergency breakings situations for some time as the surfaces of pads and rotors could be covered with stuff from the production etc. and the surfaces might be still a bit rough, so there might be not full braking capacity available. That should be gone after a two dozen brakings from a decent speed.
Actually, several websites recommend doing 20 breakings from 50 km/h to standstill to allow everything to settle. Sounds reasonable to me.
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Id say the advice is to try to avoid emergency braking events always, if you can. That shit is never fun!
There should not be THAT much crap on your pads when you get them, they should be pretty good to go, but in general yes, test them a few times, if not to break them in, but to be sure everything is put back together correctly and working correctly. Any loss of braking would only be a few percent, it would not be like the difference between front and rear braking in efficiency.
Speaking of that, had a harley clown tell me the other day that using front brakes is only for idiots, that you are just guaranteed to wreck if you use your front brakes. This guy had most his teeth missing, and a scar on his face from a past wreck, so I decided not to try to educate him, it didn't seem worth the effort :)
That is one thing that kind of surprises me, you try to explain ABS and newer tech to people and they act like you are making stuff up. (even though anti lock brakes are not exactly new tech) Yah maybe back in the 80s you could lock your front tire up and flip your bike (again if you are an idiot) but modern bikes, you'd really have to TRY to do that or a malfunction or something drastic like disabling it.
As for your Energica, do some regular stops, if they are working well, do a few heavier handed stops, Id say start slow in case there Is a problem, it's not manifesting at 60 mph, then brake from regular speeds you drive down to a full stop. That's the way brakes work, so break them in the way they work. One of the things you will be checking to see if they are working correctly is that they release smoothly without sticking from a full stop. Can't check that if you don't stop now can you? ;D
The thinking on the don't come to a full stop is, if you are doing an emergency stop on brand new pads (just don't unless you ARE in an emergency) and there is some shit on them, the heat you build up during that hard stop, which will be a lot, and then you stop and squash that pad, with the superheated shit on it, down on your disc. The stuff burns to, melts to and fuses / glues your brake pad to the rotor, or leaves a crappy spot on it from the burnt stuff glazing itself onto it and now you DO have a problem to fix. Very hard stops are also bad on your brake fluid too. Ive seen race bikes boil off their brakes a few times, it pops and smoke comes out.
Braking will smooth the pad out a bit as everything wears in and then you will have your best braking available. If your rotor is grooved or has other linear mechanical defects to it's surface then it may take a few WEEKS to fully wear your pad enough so that it does now fit down into that groove, but that is in extreme instances, if your rotor is warped, grooved, you should have had it machined / replaced to begin with when putting the new pads on.
When testing / breaking in your brakes. Of course look for proper operation. Do they apply smoothly? Is there any jerking, pulling, pulsing? Is there any grinding, squalling, squealing from them, do they release properly and all the way? Is all the air out of the system, in case you had to mess with the fluid too or opened up that circuit. Looking at the rotor you can also see if there are any uneven spots or any spots where it looks like it rubbed too hard or something touched, was grinding etc. It should in all honestly go pretty easy for you. There are a few things to look at, of course, but it's not very difficult to learn how or to do.
Good luck and let us know how it goes for you!
aaron
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Thanks for your tips and advises. Just to avoid misunderstanding – I’m not looking into tips how to break in.
I was checking to see if anyone ever received an OFFICIAL feedback from Energica.
The reason for that being my dealer always got rejected my by Energica when he was opening a warranty claim. They said (i) it was broken in incorrectly and (ii) it is anyway “normal wear”. But they nether provided a method that seems appropriate from their point of view.
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I can not comment on your specific instance but, it should have been Broken In, when they sold it to you, and the bike had it's 10 miles or so on it. If not and the dealer did not tell you how to do so, that liability would be on THEM for the new brakes / warranty claim if it's genuinely not listed in your manual.
Energica may have a case to say no, but then it should fall directly on the dealer if they did something wrong, and still YOU the customer should not have to pay for the DEALERS mess up. Sadly though dealers are notorious for trying to pass the buck for their Fkups rather than say oops, we goofed, sorry, let us fix that.
If this was damage that was done by a job you did, and you did NOT have any previous instruction how to do it, then sadly yah, they DO have a valid point, and will fall back on, the onus was on YOU to make sure it was done correctly, ie read between the lines, you should have taken it to a dealer.. type thing.
If you are looking for a manual how to do the brakes right, which it sounds like you are, have you called them at their office and asked them to instruct you, or send you something, perhaps in the e mail? That might be the best route to get genuine advice, directly from them, and not us know it alls on bulletin boards :D
Aaron
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My front brakes started pulsing about 5 weeks ago. I'm going to try to clean the buttons to see if that fixes/helps. Then new brake pads.
I had a KTM 990 with very squeaky rear brakes. It ended up being a "known issue" among owners and the fix was new brake pads. Owners posting problems, and solutions that worked on forums.
There's more then 200 Experia owners out there. If we all are working on a problem, the solution will be known soon enough.
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But what is causing the pads to go bad? Overheating, crap on them, poor design? yes replacing the pads might fix it, for the time being but what's taking out the pads so fast?
Aaron
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If you are looking for a manual how to do the brakes right, which it sounds like you are, have you called them at their office and asked them to instruct you, or send you something, perhaps in the e mail?
Of cause - requested via my dealer the week before Xmas and waiting for some official feedback. And of cause, my dealer is my interface for all warranty claims and I don‘t care what feedback they might get from Modena. He also supports my requests and took care of my Ribelle‘s 2nd brake disk set without Energica.
There's more then 200 Experia owners out there. If we all are working on a problem, the solution will be known soon enough.
VINs up to 40 or 45 are early demonstraters and the highest VIN mentioned in the FaceBook owners group recently was 220, so sounds like 200 might be a valid number. Plus the unknown amount delivered to French and Italian Police - my guess is a few dozen with more to come. There‘s a large number of owners who don‘t care about forums or FB. Furthermore, the average motorcycle mileage in Germany is only 2,200km per year (https://www-motorradonline-de.translate.goog/ratgeber/jahresfahrleistung-nur-2172-kilometer/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp&_x_tr_hist=true), so I’m afraid those few actively reading and riding owners might not bring the desired answer ‘soon enough‘ :(
But since at least me I have noticed the same issue also on the other Energica models (no surprise as apparently identical rims/discs/calipers/pads), the rider base might be much wider than 200.
But what is causing the pads to go bad? Overheating, crap on them, poor design?
That‘s what nobody knows for sure. Also we don‘t know if it is really the pads alone - however a few have some theories like cleaning the floaters or different pad brand like EBC. I have not yet heard or read about a final fix - all were mitigations at best.
In my case, the discs have been replaced now 3x in my Energica life and every time the pads were re-used. In all three cases the wobble was gone for another 5.000km or so. So I tend to say the problem is with the discs, not the pads. It may very well be that the pads initiate the issue which can only be noted with the discs - but that‘s speculation.
BR Matthias
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When I changed rotors, I also changed OEM pads to Brembo 07BB37SR. Pulsating appeared again after running in; so not pads related I would say. Two BMW GS riders who tried the demo Experia of my dealer during our trip in September mentioned brake vibrations in the Experia s well.
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@most: You write, your discs were replaced already 3 times. I am interested to hear with what kind of discs.
As far as I know there are two possibilities: A) the original discs which can be purchased from Energica only & B) the Brembo 78B408B2 which are listed for the SS9.
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All replaced under warranty, thus originals. Brembo PN unknown to me; PN of Energica applies.
Furthermore: The Oro is listed as replacement for SS9/Ribelle/Ego but not for my current Experia. I'm aware that they will fit perfectly as SS9/Ribelle/Ego/ExPee all share the same rims/brake discs/calipers.
When the next replacement is due which by experience will be around summer time 2024 AND Energica will not replace under warranty then I will check options with my dealer to change to Oro.
The OEM version that Brembo sells to Energica cannot be purchased from any supplier as aftermarket parts - they are OEM exclusive and can only be purchased from Energica. Aftermarket (OEM-replacement) products are for example the Oro that you mentioned, but also PistaBassa and Black11. Those can be bought even from eBay.
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To further diagnose, disable the front ABS modulator by removing the 25A fuse (do this w/ bike turned off), not sure how VCU will respond, it should throw a fault code when bike starts, but still allow bike to GO. This test will isolate the ABS as potential cause for the brake pulsing.
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To further diagnose, disable the front ABS modulator by removing the 25A fuse (do this w/ bike turned off), not sure how VCU will respond, it should throw a fault code when bike starts, but still allow bike to GO. This test will isolate the ABS as potential cause for the brake pulsing.
Can you not just "disable" the ABS system..?? Most bikes these days have the option in their on-board menus.
Smithy.
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Can you not just "disable" the ABS system..?? Most bikes these days have the option in their on-board menus.
Smithy.
Yes, that's a better way - good suggestion!
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This test will isolate the ABS as potential cause for the brake pulsing.
The idea is not too bad, however at least in my case I have measured lateral slag before I got new rotors. Now, with the new rotors just broken in, I have no indication of any wobble but anyway measured. No surprise: Below 0.05mm - and those 0.05 might be caused by the measurement set up being not stiff enough.
Can you not just "disable" the ABS system..?? Most bikes these days have the option in their on-board menus.
ABS can be disabled on the older platform (Ego/Eva/Ribelle/SS9) via menu. This option is not available on my Experia - ABS is always on, there‘s no menu parameter directly connected with ABS. See attached picture; BRAKE means engine braking, so recuperation. It is not connected to the ABS modulator.
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I have the same issue. No warping or uneven thickness. Seems like some part of the disc is just more smooth for some reason. I will try grinding it before the summer and then du er bed-in process and then remember to disable the regen once in a while to use the brakes more.
Hope it will help.
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@most:
I am somewhat relieved to hear that your (also vibrating) replacements were not the Oro discs. So there is still a chance that the OEM are for some reason the cause of the vibrations.
At next opportunity I will have discs and pads changed though they still appear to be good - these vibrations during braking turn me nuts and I do not have much confidence in them anymore (which might be unfounded).
Legally allowed replacements (at least in Germany) for the OEM discs are, as far as I know only the Brembo Oro 78B408B2 as they have a so-called KBA number.
Of course, other manufacturer's stuff good for the Ducati Scrambler should be technically OK but I would fail the bi-annual technical test because those are no homologized for Energicas.
@PWM:
I tried the brakes with ABS switched off - pulsating was still there, at least in my case.