ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: ddennis669 on March 27, 2023, 01:51:59 AM
-
My front storage lid on my Experia will no longer open. I can hear the electronic switch click but the latch does not release. First occurrence I heard some small metal bits drop down somewhere inside the body. Is there a manual release or any other ideas on getting in there so I can see what failed?
Thanks
David
-
If you can get it to a service center (I dunno how far that is for you) Energica are really good on aftersales and warranty stuff.
-
Yes, that may be my only option. The dealer where I took delivery is 180 miles south and I'm hoping to find a solution that is more convenient.
-
Yes, that may be my only option. The dealer where I took delivery is 180 miles south and I'm hoping to find a solution that is more convenient.
If it were me, if in warranty or not, I would start by taking off the "tank" covers and looking inside.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
My thought too Don. I tried to get both upper side panels off. One of the fasteners on each side appears to be under the lid. I must be missing something and I hope to get lucky and some one knows what it is.
-
My thought too Don. I tried to get both upper side panels off. One of the fasteners on each side appears to be under the lid. I must be missing something and I hope to get lucky and some one knows what it is.
Perhaps you will be the first owner to figure it out! I noticed the charge cover has a screw or two inside--even on the opposite side of the bike. I assume you removed those too.
BTW, anybody know where we can find a Service Manual for the Expeira? I have both the owner's manual and the Service Manual for my SS9 in PDF, but not for my Experia.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
My thought too Don. I tried to get both upper side panels off. One of the fasteners on each side appears to be under the lid. I must be missing something and I hope to get lucky and some one knows what it is.
There is indeed a screw inside the "frunk" on each side to allow removal of the side panels....I had mine off when I did my first 1000km (600mile) service. You need to remove the left side fairing panel to check the coolant level. The two screws holding the OBD-II port don't need to be removed if just checking the coolant level...but be aware of the small wires to/from the OBD-II port as they may be damaged if pulled on too hard.
The top two screws in the pic below are from the inside, the forward one is easily removed, rearward one is inside the "Frunk".
Edit: I just had a quick look at mine and there's no easy access to the latch or actuator cable from the outside...I'll have a deeper look this evening after work to see if there's relatively easy solution to get at the actuator cable or Frunk latch.
Smithy.
-
There is indeed a screw inside the "frunk" on each side to allow removal of the side panels....I had mine off when I did my first 1000km (600mile) service. You need to remove the left side fairing panel to check the coolant level. The two screws holding the OBD-II port don't need to be removed if just checking the coolant level...but be aware of the small wires to/from the OBD-II port as they may be damaged if pulled on too hard.
The top two screws in the pic below are from the inside, the forward one is easily removed, rearward one is inside the "Frunk".
Smithy.
Thanks for that! It is time to do my 600-mile service so that was just in time.
Have you heard anything about the centerstand yet? My drive chain needs to be adjusted, way too lose and the centerstand should make that job easy.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
There is indeed a screw inside the "frunk" on each side to allow removal of the upper side panels....I had mine off when I did my first 1000km (600mile) service. You need to remove the left side fairing panel to check the coolant level. The two screws holding the OBD-II port don't need to be removed if just checking the coolant level...but be aware of the small wires to/from the OBD-II port as they may be damaged if pulled on too hard. Don't allow the panel to hang by the wires, make sure it's supported etc..
The top two screws in the pic below are installed from the inside, the forward one is easily removed, rearward one is inside the "Frunk".
Smithy.
Thanks for that! It is time to do my 600-mile service so that was just in time.
Have you heard anything about the centerstand yet? My drive chain needs to be adjusted, way too lose and the centerstand should make that job easy.
-Don- Auburn, CA
Hi Don,
I did ask about the centre stand a couple of weeks ago, but "short supply" is the word going around at this end of the world....I suspect it's the same worldwide. Chain is easy to adjust on the sidestand though...I changed the front sprocket the other day and chain adjustment is a doddle. 35mm slop is specified, a 32mm socket for the axle nut and two 13mm open end wrenches for the adjusters. Torque for the rear axle nut is 80nm. There's a cutout on each side of the swingarm and I measured the distance from there to the axle support plate.... and made it equal on each side with 35mm of chain slack...job done.
I was pondering the speedo "inaccuracy" since I've had the bike.....The original front sprocket is a 15 tooth and the speedo reading is exstrapolated in the ECU from motor rpm, so changing the front or rear sprocket will affect the speedo. The Experia speedo is indeed quite a ways out. When riding at 100kmh via GPS, the speedo reads ~106kmh....so I went 2 teeth up to 17t and the speedo reading actually went a few kmh the "other" way, the 17t sprocket will just fit, (18t will be too big and foul the motor protection guard under the cover).....so I ended up fitting a 16t and the speedo reading is spot on now... within +/-1kmh of actual GPS reading. BTW...a standard 2006/2007 Aprillia RSV 1000 520 16T front sprocket is a perfect spline and offset match for the Experia and looks identical to the original. I did have to make myself a special socket to remove the sprocket nut but now it's done I'll have it forever.
I did a couple of runs to work and back to see if it made any appreciable difference to acceleration or battery mileage, but it is negligible if any at all.....the way I see it is like this...it takes X amount of watts/current to do X amount of work at X amount of rpm/speed....All we're doing is changing the motor rpm vs wattage vs current vs speed, what you gain in one area, is lost in another....no gain to be had in battery economy that I can see. Outright acceleration may be slightly affected but again, I felt it to be negligible for day to day riding. Overtaking or accelerationg at normal road speeds appeared to be as easy with the 17T as the 15T sprocket fitted.
Hope this helps,
Smithy.
-
I was in the midst of the 600 mile service when the storage lid release failed. I can remove the panels enough to check the coolant but can’t get the last screw to remove them completely. The part that fell into the bottom of the fairing is pictured. I dealt with a similar issue on a Honda NC700X.
-
I was in the midst of the 600 mile service when the storage lid release failed. I can remove the panels enough to check the coolant but can’t get the last screw to remove them completely. The part that fell into the bottom of the fairing is pictured. I dealt with a similar issue on a Honda NC700X.
Hi David,
I removed the riders seat and had a poke around on my Experia last night for you in an attempt to see if there's a way of disengaging the frunk latch from inside without removing the fairing panels....unfortunately I didn't find a way to do it without dismantling the side panels as well...which you obviously can't do. With the side panels removed, I suspect it may be possible, but that defeats the purpose I guess and is not much use to you.
Smithy.
-
I am grateful for all the suggestions and help in trying to solve this. Thanks Don, Stonewolf and Smithy.
The latest news is that I just got detailed instructions from Chris Paz on the location of the actuator and release cable and how to access it to release the lid. Detailed photos and everything. The switch works again!
I will post instructions as soon as everything is back together and I get a few moments.
-
Glad to hear you were able to get in there and reconnect the actuator to the cable!
-
Using the instructions from Energica's Chris Paz I was able to re-install the plastic connector between the actuator and the cable to the lid release.
Since the panel could not be completely removed as the final screw was located inside the storage compartment, Chris advised the following:
"The part that fell off is what attaches the pull cable between the latch and the actuator, when the actuator fires it is no longer pulling the cable. Although you can not fully remove the left side panel of the bike due to the one bolt being under the lid you should be able to get enough clearance to access the actuator. If you do not feel comfortable with any part of the instructions I would suggest contacting Pro Italia to let them manage the issue."
This was followed with images showing the screws locations to remove the left side panel and some service manual images.
"The lower portion of the fairing is held in place with plastic pins that fit into rubber grommets. A little outward pressure should allow these to separate.
You can slightly pull the fairing (not too far as to not damage the section still bolted to the bike) and you should be able to see the actuator. If you pull the cable that should unlock the storage bin. The piece that has come disconnected should snap back onto the end of the actuator and then the cable end should slip into it. If the piece does not securely attach to the actuator please let me know. "
-
resized:
-
I was in the midst of the 600 mile service when the storage lid release failed. I can remove the panels enough to check the coolant but can’t get the last screw to remove them completely. The part that fell into the bottom of the fairing is pictured. I dealt with a similar issue on a Honda NC700X.
Did you do something that caused it to fail while you were doing the 600 service? I ask because I am about ready to do my 600 mile service.
And is there somewhere I can get the service manual for the Experia? I have the Service Manual for my SS9 in PDF but I cannot remember where I got it from. I already have the Experia Owner's manual in PDF.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
Thanks Don, I appreciate you resizing the photo for me.
I am not sure why the part came loose. I had clicked the button to open the lid and heard the connecting piece fall out and the lid failed to open.
While I was in there reconnecting it, I wrapped some duct tape around the connector to hopefully prevent it from dislodging and at least keep it from becoming lost if it disconnects again. I also attached a short length of wire to the cable end so I could reach in near the fork leg and tug on the wire to release the latch if it fails again. Certainly not very elegant but one could at least open the lid and get to the screw inside the storage compartment.
This event makes me wonder how challenging it would be to access the fuse box on the right side if the switch failed.
-
I would like a service manual too if they become available/
Attached are the first two of the images Chris sent. They appear to be from a service manual/
-
Photo 3
-
4, 5 & 6. Possibly better sized?
-
For forum use here, set the camera at 800 by 600 or 640 by 580 resolution and then you will not have to resize at all. But Some newer cameras probably will not go that low then you have to resize it yourself, which most photo editors can do.
IAC, thanks for all the great info!
-Don- Auburn, CA