ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: Pard on March 21, 2023, 11:21:07 PM
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Posting some adjustments I made to the Rebelle with stock suspension and tires, that improved ride quality and handling for me.
I weigh 180 with full gear.
Preload:
Front: One full turn out on each fork leg from manual spec settings.
Rear : One full rotation out on the preload ring from manual spec.
Rebound:
Front: One full turn out from manual spec settings
Compression as per manual specs.
Tire pressure: front and rear 39 PSI
IMHO You will enjoy the motorcycle so much more if you take some time to understand and properly adjust the suspension and do a bit of experimentation with tire pressure.
Not a bad video to start with to help understand what the adjustments do.
https://youtu.be/0kCGoDjtnM4
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Womet-tek front axle sliders for the R6 work on the Rebelle. A bit of sanding required on the delrin to fit the axle pass through.
https://tstindustries.com/womet-tech-fork-slider-yamaha-r1-r6-fz-10-mt-10.html
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Pics
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this is the next thing I really want to study and get to understand about my bike. All my gear on, im pushing maybe 200 Lbs give or take a pizza or two.
All I know is, as delivered, it was not a fun ride, rough over tracks etc. I clicked the shocks down a few turns on the adjustments and it made a HUGE difference on the pounding I took. I am sure there are more minor adjustments that can make HUGE improvements in ride quality that can be made once I fully understand what I am doing and not just 'well lets turn it THIS way and see what that does ! "
I am not at the point where I am making hairpin turns so tire pressure I don't think is a massive input point I need to dink with yet but Im betting it will be by the end of the summer :)
Aaron
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@Pard: You recommend experimenting with tyre pressure. The 39 PSI you mention would be a bit less than 2.7 bar, i.e. lower than the 2.9 bar Energica demands.
That goes against anything I have learned in the rider trainings I have attended so far. Adjusting suspensions is OK, that what they are made for. If the tyres feel wrong, you change to another manufacturer - there are plenty of types and makes out there - but never stray from the pressure.
Depending on your riding style etc. you might be good with this lowered pressure, but I my view you risk too much. Don't die on us, pal!
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Tire pressure can, and should, be adjusted within reasonable limits to get the best ride for your profile.
Here is another good intro video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaIuWKfnGEI&t=4s
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Energica should comes out with a fully electronic adjustable ohlins suspension package, like those found on other premium bikes.
State of the art technology demands that suspension.
Ride quality of the Energica is a 5 out of 10, with stock suspension, compared to a Aprilia Tuono V4 Factory which is a 10/10.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnCNnqJxw00
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Ordered a set of Ohlins for the bike. Will report back once installed and tested. Really expect a significant change in ride quality.
4 out of 5 dentists surveyed recommend the stock suspension. Generates business from dislogged tooth filings. ;D
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Good choice on Ohlins - have 'em on my Ribelle - they work even better when bike is fitted w/ forged wheels, meaning less sprung mass.
They will require rebuild every 30k miles but worth it and most any race shop can service them.
Front tubes operate independently, one for compression dampening the other for rebound.
Expect less pogo effect from rear Ohlins upgrade versus the stock unit.
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@PWM appreciate the confirmation!
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Good choice on Ohlins - have 'em on my Ribelle - they work even better when bike is fitted w/ forged wheels, meaning less sprung mass.
...
I am debating the wheel choice.
My experience with carbon and forged wheel upgrades on some of my other bikes has really yielded mixed results.
If I do upgrade, I may go carbon.
The R6 did not really benefit from Carbon wheels in my perception, except on track. The difference could be felt on the road as well, but not enough to justify the upgrade to me, if the road use was the only use.
On the road, the low torque output of smaller engines, saw benefits in acceleration from the lower rotational mass. Handling at road speeds was not night and day with lighter wheels.
The most dramatic change I ever felt from carbon wheels was on my big bore Grom. That bike being so light and so low HP was transformed at any speed.
The Energica has so much torque available at any speed, I wonder if I will appreciate the difference on the road in terms of acceleration and braking feel. The massive weight of the bike may mask the benefits.
If the bike survives a few more months, I may be compelled to try new wheels.
@PWM, can you describe what lighter wheels did for your experience on the Energica?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXLK9osr0ss
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HSPXoDus-s
This video is really informative:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rYlwNS-WSs
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Compare how the stock Energica suspension behaves compared to a Zero FXE and a Tuono V4 factory with active electronic ohlins.
Also for reference, a Grom with Ohlins and carbon wheels...
Energica suspension is overwhelmed by the work load.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=un_FX_ErreE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsgvvoK3Zg4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0E43Clw1gM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaQPzXXaqIM
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Going to be testing out some different tires.
I have two different sets in my garage. I change my own tires so back to back tests are easy enough.
https://www.mitas-moto.com/en/products/motorcycle-on-road-tires/motorcycle-sport-tires/sport-force-plus-ev
https://www.michelinman.com/motorcycle/tires/michelin-power-gp
I get all my tires from this vendor. He is really great to work with and very knowledgeable.
https://www.motorace.com/
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This tire changer is amazing. Easy to use and gives you the freedom to change tires yourself, whenever you wish. Pays for itself in no time.
http://www.olmaxmotors.pl/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNk1lRv5Gww
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@PWM, can you describe what lighter wheels did for your experience on the Energica?
Cannot compare to stock Energica wheels, bike was ordered w/ OZ wheels.
Suspect the benefit of lighter wheels is better bike stability under rough road conditions when braking more-so than any handling improvement given the weight of bike is the dominant (non-desired) attribute to handling.
Thanks for sharing the info on tire changers...been wanting to get one and liking the unit suggested.
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Cannot compare to stock Energica wheels, bike was ordered w/ OZ wheels.
Suspect the benefit of lighter wheels is better bike stability under rough road conditions when braking more-so than any handling improvement given the weight of bike is the dominant (non-desired) attribute to handling.
Thanks for sharing the info on tire changers...been wanting to get one and liking the unit suggested.
Thanks.
That machine is significantly easier to use and a smaller footprint compared to the no mar machine which used to be the only game in town.
https://www.nomartirechanger.com/
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This tire changer is amazing. Easy to use and gives you the freedom to change tires yourself, whenever you wish. Pays for itself in no time.
http://www.olmaxmotors.pl/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNk1lRv5Gww
I have this one in my shed....makes tyre changing a doddle..
Smithy.
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^^^ Now, that is the way! AWESOME!
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The Energica has so much torque available at any speed, I wonder if I will appreciate the difference on the road in terms of acceleration and braking feel. The massive weight of the bike may mask the benefits.
@PWM, can you describe what lighter wheels did for your experience on the Energica?
Suspension and wheel upgrades, although expensive are the best places to spend money if you want to improve how a bike feels and performs. Investing in track time and coaching on the other hand are the best options if you want to "go faster".
I have been fortunate to put a number of miles on Energica bikes outfitted with 5 different wheel sets: Stock, OZ spoked (heavier than stock), OZ forged 5 spoke (Piega), Marchesini forged 7 spoke (M7RR Genesi) and the BST carbon 5 spoke.
The difference between the stock wheels and the 2 forged offerings is noticeable although not dramatic. Most noticeable under hard acceleration and when transitioning from side to side (canyon carving). Due to the lower sprung mass they also let the bikes suspension work better due to the lower unsprung weight. I also get more feedback from the tires when in corners, suspect this is to to the wheels being stiffer.
Carbon wheels on the other hand transform the bike. Everything feels more lively and involving. They turn an already fast EMCE Ribelle RS into a WEAPON! In sport mode the bike demands your full attention, the front wheel likes to float off the ground on corner exit. Overall the bike just feels snappier even at lower speeds.
Due to the bikes overall weight lighter wheels do not seem to cause the bike to become unstable or twichy. I have a set of magnesium Marchesini wheels on my 300lb Ducati and it's an order of magnitude less stable. When riding if you sneeze you may find yourself in another lane.
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^^^ Excellent writeup @Demoni . Appreciate the first hand experience.
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Going to be testing out some different tires.
I have two different sets in my garage. I change my own tires so back to back tests are easy enough.
https://www.mitas-moto.com/en/products/motorcycle-on-road-tires/motorcycle-sport-tires/sport-force-plus-ev
https://www.michelinman.com/motorcycle/tires/michelin-power-gp
I get all my tires from this vendor. He is really great to work with and very knowledgeable.
https://www.motorace.com/
Some interesting data on stock wheel weight.
Stock front Cast Wheel with both rotors in place: 21.5 lbs
Stock rear cast wheel with rotor in place, sprocket and carrier removed: 18.2 lbs
Sport Touring Tires are heavy. The Rosso 3 is a heavy tire:
Rosso 3 front: 10.1 lbs
Rosso 3 rear: 14 lbs
The Mitas sport force Plus is also a heavy tire. Different profile than the Pirelli. Will see if I like them after test ride tomorrow.
Mitas front: 10.3 lbs
Mitas rear: 15.2 lbs
A pure performance hypersport tire such as the Michelin Power GP is lighter by far:
GP front: 9 lbs
GP rear: 12 lbs
Dunlop Q5s
Front: 9.6 lbs
Rear: 14lbs
That is a lot of weight difference rotating at the furthest point from the center of the wheel creating the greatest gyroscopic effect. Lighter tires matter.
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So, having tires this much lighter, what does this do to you at slower speeds? What can you expect performance wise? What will change, for good or bad?
Aaron
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So, having tires this much lighter, what does this do to you at slower speeds? What can you expect performance wise? What will change, for good or bad?
Aaron
You will not feel any difference at slow speed. These minute differences become apparent at high speed and when transitioning side to side.
Here is an example. I tested the Mitas tires today. I thought I would hate them because of their weight, but I was wrong. I like them very much.
At slow speed, they feel like the Rosso 3s as far as anyone would be able to tell.
At speed, I like the way the Mitas tires handle on the road. Ran them at 39/39 psi.
The profile is sharper than the Rosso 3s, providing a quicker transition to the side of the tire, which is a real benefit on the heavy Energica. Fast to get in an out of lean, stable at lean.
The rosso 3 is a more consistent feel but a slower feel when rolling side to side, in and out of lean.
The Mitas is very stable on the side of the tire, (as is the rosso 3) with a confidence inspiring amount of grip in front even when pushed pretty hard into trail braking corners. A bit more grip to my feel than the rosso 3. Subjective.
The rear is predictable and stable at lean allowing me to get on the throttle without worry when exiting a corner. Feels gripier on exit as well compared to rosso 3.
Braking is solid, with good feedback through the tire into the hands.
Cruising along the tire runs very quietly and smoothly.
Well designed tire.
Would buy these tires again over a Rosso 3 for the handling feel and the perception of better grip for my style of riding.
If you want a more stable handling tire, the Rosso 3 would be my pick.
Next up in the test is the Power GPs.
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So, having tires this much lighter, what does this do to you at slower speeds? What can you expect performance wise? What will change, for good or bad?
Aaron
You will not feel any difference at slow speed. These minute differences become apparent at high speed and when transitioning side to side.
Actually reducing the weight of your tires will improve performance at low speeds. However that improvement might not be noticeable, due to the weight saved being only a small percentage of the total wheel mass.
Reducing the weight of your wheels has a few impacts:
- Lowering the total weight of the bike - Lighter objects require less force to accelerate or decelerate a specific amount.
- Reducing unsprung weight - Unsprung weight is the total weight of the bike components (wheels, calipers, lower fork tube etc.) that act on the suspension. Lowering this can improve how your suspension works especially in small bump compliance.
- Reduced rotating weight - It requires less force to change the speed of a lighter spinning mass. In addition a spinning mass creates a stabilizing gyroscopic effect that resists changes to its axis of rotation. Reducing the spinning mass reduces this effect, this makes it easier to change a bikes direction.
- Reduced Moment of inertia - Removing weight from the perimeter of a spinning object will have a greater effect vs removing the same weight from it's center.
Article related to MoI
https://blog.brocksperformance.com/bst-the-effects-of-inertia/ (https://blog.brocksperformance.com/bst-the-effects-of-inertia/)
Video demonstration of 2 wheels that weight the same but have different MoI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNx0yPdl960 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNx0yPdl960)
Article related to Unsprung weight
https://www.cycleworld.com/fundamentals-unsprung-weight/ (https://www.cycleworld.com/fundamentals-unsprung-weight/)
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^^^ Excellent info!
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This is also a good explanation:
"Every ounce at the edge of a 17" rim takes 25 lbs of force to change direction at 100 mph. Work is defined as force over time.
Doing the math >>> 16 ounces in one pound equals 400 lbs of force if it takes the rider one second to change direction at 100 mph if the wheel is a single pound lighter. The OZ wheels are several pounds lighter than oem. Many people talk about a bike being easier to turn but most of those people can't really provide what that means. One the street is is very hard to tell the difference.
At an expert-level club racer pace on a 2.5 mile track a carbon wheel (VERY LIGHT) saves only 1/2 of a second per lap over a stock cast wheel - I have personally done this test comparing a 2017 GSX-R1000R race bike with stock cast wheels vs. BST carbon wheels on the same day using tires with the same compound and pressures >>>> only 1/2 a second difference!
What is more useful info for most people is the fact that over the day a rider is doing a lot more work on the heavier wheels so at the end of the day you might be more tired on stock wheels versus lighter forged or similar wheels.
If you are a street rider lighter wheels are for show, on track if you get tired after 5 sessions getting a set of lightweight wheels will let you do that 6th or even 7th session and feel the same amount of worn out as you would expect to feel after 5 sessions. Hope this helps."
https://www.1000rr.net/threads/oz-gass-rs-a-forged-wheels.260302/page-2#post-4326806
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If you are a street rider lighter wheels are for show...
Indeed, and easier to clean, e.g. OZ option.
Good thread!
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Tom Huff, Director of Sales North America, Energica, was kind enough to send me over this attached table.
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Sounds a lot like beekeeping.
You can ask 10 different people a question about their bees.
You will get 15 different answers.
Everyone of them correct in their presentation and application.
How does that apply to YOU and YOUR bees?????
Aaron
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^^^ Indeed! :)
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Another tire changing machine. Looks promising.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muzNDlfQLks
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Set of OZ wheels coming next week for comparison to stock wheels on stock suspension.
Set of Ohlins coming after that.
Smiles per miles value proposition to be tested...
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Installed a set of OZ wheels today with the stock suspension still in place. Will test tomorrow and report back.
Ohlins are ready for installation following the test.
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I'm a bit of a suspension snob and while the Ohlins is pretty basic level of suspension I can tell you that you will not be disappointed. I usually upgrade the suspension on my bike but in the case of the Ohlins I find it to be pretty good.
I have not had any of the complaints that people have with the stock suspension.
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Great to hear! ^^^ Thank You!
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Back from the test ride with OZ wheels.
Verdict: Well worth it.
Stock suspension is now able to handle the demand. No more pogoing on sweepers with road imperfections. On all but the roughest roads, the suspension makes the ride tolerable, not painful.
Spirited performance riding is no longer sketchy due to an inability to coordinate the action of front and rear suspension.
Handling, acceleration, braking, and range are all improved.
Forces to change direction are reduced.
You will need less twist of the throttle to reach your chosen speed at your chosen acceleration rate.
Braking requires less distance and less force. Regen works to slow the bike more substantially.
Range is improved. Less force to get up to speed, less battery consumption. About 2.5% based on my very methodical route test.
Get rid of those stock wheels...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hJzSiCOMWw
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Ive got the stock suspension on mine and sometimes the front end feels real squirrely, like it want's to drift all over the place and im not pushing it. Not sure if it's just me, subliminally maybe pushing, or leaning, it just seems VERY like loose at times. Maybe it's cold and the tires are sliding? I dunno, but at this point, as I am wanting to get into riding a bit more spirited, and not just straight line, this really concerns me as I don't need to low side into a damned ditch here on a simple turn because I over estimated what the bike can do. Sometimes it feels like the front wheel wants to start sliding in a turn, like there is sand on the road, but Ive actually stopped, parked the bike, walked back and checked, nope, it's a clean turn.
Ive heard that suspension is really a BIG thing when it comes to performance riding, and then see the Ohlins listed for what? almost 4K on their website. That's a LOT, but if it helps the bike perform much better, (and safer) then i'd be in for it. I really wish there were more shops around here with someone who I knew who KNOWS these things and I could trust to really help me tune the bike in, get the suspension adjusted PROPERLY for me and all. I really do NOT trust the dealer in Orlando, and the more people I meet who have dealt with them as well, the worse I feel about going back to that place. I am told the place in Daytona has a lot better group of folks there, which although under the same overall owner, sure hope is true.
What would be a dream is someone opening a shop up, that deals with mainly E bikes, ALL of them, and throw in E cars too. Get the techs, get the people trained, and now we KNOW there are people who ARE qualified to work on our rides for us. yes most of the stuff is standard that any bike shop should be able to do, but a lot of them are squirrely because it IS electric, and want to act like, well those are not ICE brakes, that's not an ICE tire or dumb shit and don't really want to touch the bikes.
Aaron
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@Specter , Dave Moss does remote suspension tuning for a very fair price. Reach out to him. You may also want to go to a local track day, where you can always find very knowledgeable suspension savvy types to help dial in what you have.
https://davemosstuning.com/remote-tuning/#:~:text=Remote%20tuning%20is%20a%20unrivaled,%2C%20Zelle%2C%20Facebook%20or%20Square.
While you will certainly feel the difference with high end components, the stock stuff is really good enough for every rider in terms of control and safety. Other than always having to have the best, upgrading the suspension is often a performance choice for aficionado types. I waste money on performance upgrades on all my bikes, while the best riders I know still ride better and faster than I do on the crappiest components :)
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They have two tracks near me. one is off by I 75 and I hear a lot of fun, only an hour or so away, I really want to get onto, they offer classes and stuff, and I hear from a lot of people is a really laid back, fun day and great people. Problem is, I think next week is the only open week left then they appear to be closed until September it seems. Boo !! So I might want to just wait until then to get full into it, and by then I'll have all my own track gear, the full leather suit, gloves, boots etc and be somewhat ready for my first lesson.
There is nother track out down by Homestead which is probably a 7 hour drive, so Id need to make a weekend out of it, find somewhere to stay etc, but offers much the same thing, also appears to be more of a professional track with a longer straight away etc for if you really want to open it up, that also offers classes etc etc.
I absolutely want to go the full, im a stupid clueless noob, teach me from training wheels on route so I have a REAL idea what is going on. (If I kill myself, that's my own fuckup, but Id have a real hard time living with myself if I killed someone else out of my own ignorance) so want to go the full training route to get to where I can consider myself a decent rider. Overall at the end of the day, yah the adrenaline rush is awesome but I want to learn how to handle my bike better, on or off the road, lean into turns better and handle it better. I know a lot of it can be brain trickery, but having someone SHOW you instead of learning it the hard way on your own is a lot better.
I'll have to show up, even if I don't ride the bike that one day / weekend, at least have someone look at it and help me at the least, get the suspension dialed in and general talk. Riding on a track, where you are allowed to go fast, and have pro's there to help you do it SAFELY .vs. ok I didn't see any cops, let's 180 and roll back...is probably a better venue in the long run :D
Aaron
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@Specter
For the best training available anywhere, IMHO, leave your bike at home, travel to the next school offered by YCRS. They rent bikes and riding gear for the 2 day school. Will change your life.
https://www.facebook.com/ridelikeachampion/
https://ridelikeachampion.com/champ-school/
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Thank you for the Inputs Pard. i was seriously thinking that too, there is another class / school they mention as well which i was looking into. I also thought about renting a bike because well... why drop my bike when I can drop theirs ::cringe:: but seriously, when you look at the 600 lb Energica .vs. the maybe 300 something ish they will probably rent you, it's a BIG difference in handling tactics, not to mention, you don't have shifting to fiddle with, or a clutch to feather, though you probably could sim it with the regen braking.
Wouldn't it be better to learn on my bike which IS significantly different in many aspects? or just learn first, get good THEN go thru with my bike and then learn the differences?
Aaron..
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Thank you for the Inputs Pard. i was seriously thinking that too, there is another class / school they mention as well which i was looking into. I also thought about renting a bike because well... why drop my bike when I can drop theirs ::cringe:: but seriously, when you look at the 600 lb Energica .vs. the maybe 300 something ish they will probably rent you, it's a BIG difference in handling tactics, not to mention, you don't have shifting to fiddle with, or a clutch to feather, though you probably could sim it with the regen braking.
Wouldn't it be better to learn on my bike which IS significantly different in many aspects? or just learn first, get good THEN go thru with my bike and then learn the differences?
Aaron..
You will learn the same essential skills regardless of the bike. Rent one of the schools bikes and the carry over to your Rebelle riding will be 100% despite the differences. Any rider, any bike, any road is the motto of YCRS, and I can swear the skills you learn are indeed just that transferrable.
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https://youtu.be/wRTxqH0iCHw
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Finally going to put in the Ohlins today.
There was a delay since I had to source a swingarm mounting kit which differs from stock. New bushings in the swingarm and top hat adapter for the lower shock clevis.
The Ohlins front forks require relocation of the ABS sensor and phonic wheel from the left side to the right side. There is no integrated mount in the fork leg on the Ohlins for the sensor, so I also had to source an adaptor.
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Keep us informed! What a pain, you'd think they'd be more plug and play but well... that'd make life.. too easy :)
Aaron
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Ohlins forks and shock installed, set for my riding weight and style by a pro tuner, and road tested.
Unhappy with how jarring the stock suspension feels over bumps?
You may be better off getting an aftermarket seat that is softer, and having the stock suspension tuned for your riding weight and typical riding surfaces.
Will the average rider get on the Rebelle with Ohlins and exclaim, OMG!, while riding down the highway or neighborhood street? No.
Cruising around, the Ohlins does a better job of damping the road bumps and softening the blow to your spine. You will not be isolated from bumps but you will feel like you are riding on a more refined set of suspension.
So, who needs Ohlins?
If you spend much of your Energica ride on the side of the tire, under heavy braking or acceleration forces, Ohlins is for you.
The Ohlins keeps the bike calm, settled, and stable when pushed, compared to stock. The tires follow the contour of the road with unambiguous precision, particularly noticeable, in comparison, when at lean angle, and under hard braking and acceleration forces.
Hanging off the bike while negotiating a fast sweeper marred with surface imperfections, the Ohlins equipped Energica is predictable and stable.
Stock suspension was always chattering and pogoing at lean, always fighting, upset over the last bump, not ready for the next bump.
Entering the braking zone at speed, the Ohlins does the heavy lifting keeping the front and rear stable. Stock suspension requires a super fine touch to modulate the front and rear brakes to get that done. Hard to do when trying to scrub speed, and enter a turn with purpose.
Expert riders can ride the worst suspension better than I can ride the best. They have such refined control, adapt to the suspension, and settle the bike with control inputs. I cannot do that all the time. Better suspension helps the average rider, ride better.
Expensive, but worth it for the performance-oriented rider.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phb4Bqh5RhY
You can compare the action of stock vs aftermarket wheels and suspension in this video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BLXhn0oogs
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Thanks for the review Pard. So between the wheels and suspension, it sounds like the OZ wheels are better investment for a [majority] road rider?
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Thanks for the review Pard. So between the wheels and suspension, it sounds like the OZ wheels are better investment for a [majority] road rider?
Yes, the OZ wheels would be the way to go.
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Was able to get slightly less than 2K miles out of the Mitas tires. They were grippy tires, and wore well.
Put on the Michelin Power GP tires and they are an order of magnitude more performance oriented. Quicker handling response, even better grip, and a smoother roll.
I doubt these will even last 1500 miles but I LOVE them. Lightest tires I tested to date.
I have a set of Dunlup Q5s tires on the way as well for testing.
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Comparison:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BLXhn0oogs
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Pard, what kind of camera and mount you using/
I have some of those recording glasses which do a decent job but the wind noise, it just destroys any audio, even at lower speeds.
Aaron
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Go Pro 11 mounted in an underwater case to deal with the noise you described. I will snap a pic of the mount setup I use and post later. I run it off usb power because battery life on that unit is poor. an go pro corrupts all your footage if battery drops below 20%. Charming feature. 8 hours run time on a 128 sd card.
Just picked up an insta 360 X3 which is supposed to be the latests and greatest.
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This is how I mount it. Note the cracked protective glass. That happens to the actual go pro lens when mounted down low. Another reason to run the case.
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I was thinking of putting mine up towards the handlebars looking forward. Was going to use one of those ram mounts, then see I need to remove the friggin handlebar to get into the hole to get it in!! NOTHING is ever easy with me :(. I wanted to be able to see the dash, ie the lights and numbers, and where I am going, so speed is shown and KW stuffs too for future analysis.
Very good idea on the case, any piece of rock, road debris, big angry june bug, and there goes your 300 dollar camara. Too bad there isn't a way to wifi it with your Cardo for a rolling narrative :D
Aaron
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I was thinking of putting mine up towards the handlebars looking forward. Was going to use one of those ram mounts, then see I need to remove the friggin handlebar to get into the hole to get it in!! NOTHING is ever easy with me :(. I wanted to be able to see the dash, ie the lights and numbers, and where I am going, so speed is shown and KW stuffs too for future analysis.
Very good idea on the case, any piece of rock, road debris, big angry june bug, and there goes your 300 dollar camara. Too bad there isn't a way to wifi it with your Cardo for a rolling narrative :D
Newer action cameras do a pretty good job at filtering out wind noise, in addition they provide a few different audio settings.
Placing the camera where it will be protected from the wind helps a ton with recording quality audio. If that is not possible there are a few alternatives that can help:
- Tape over the mic openings - This prevents air from flowing into the mic slots, it will reduce the volume of the audio but that can be adjusted when you edit your videos.
- Attach form or fur over the mic openings - Reducing the air that hits the mics. Same reason moto communication mics have that foam cover.
- External mic - GoPro cameras allow you to record audio from a external source. The newer cameras require a USB adapter but the older ones have a 3.5mm audio jack. This lets you place a mic under your bikes bodywork to shield it from the wind. You can also put the mic inside your helmet.
- Separate standalone mic - A small standalone voice recorder allows you to record a audio track separate. This gives you more freedom in editing as you can cut and splice the tracks separately. Great for doing voice commentary.
I am a big fan of the GoPro chest mount for moto videos. It provides a good view of the dash and bars along with the road.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3YTXmF-Kx4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3YTXmF-Kx4)
You can also use one of the adhesive mounts to attach the camera to your bikes "tank".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srjtObDO7Oo&t=1s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srjtObDO7Oo&t=1s)
Mounting the camera lower makes your videos feel faster
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQ0fdP2q6VQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQ0fdP2q6VQ)
I would also suggest tethering your camera to a 2nd point on your bike. I had a adhesive mount fail and my tether prevented the camera from bouncing down the road.
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Thank you for the videos.
I think the chest mount looks the best, though you can't see the dash numbers TOO well that should be playable. Perhaps energica makes a light option for the dash for background lighting? on my bike I am thinking behind the windscreen might work ok.
On the first video with the chest mount, what are you playing with under your left hand there while racing?
Aaron
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Been thinking about capturing some of my rides on video. Of all the camera mounting options shown in this thread, the low-angle side-mount per Pard's video(s) gives the best perspective IMO of ride path and bike dynamics...well done.
With regards to suspension comparative, it seems the Ohlins are more settled particularly for throttle-on to throttle-off transitions which is hard to appreciate since my Eva also sports Ohlins suspension and OZ wheels (factory installed) hence no complaints about handling given how heavy these bikes are.
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Thank you for the videos.
I think the chest mount looks the best, though you can't see the dash numbers TOO well that should be playable. Perhaps energica makes a light option for the dash for background lighting? on my bike I am thinking behind the windscreen might work ok.
On the first video with the chest mount, what are you playing with under your left hand there while racing?
Aaron
Chest mount is great.
Just avoid the massive frustration of running go pro on the built in battery by swapping batteries every 30 minutes, or run a usb cable to a power bank battery or bike usb power.
I wasted so much time and energy until this secret was revealed. Go pro will corrupt your footage if battery reaches 20% or below. 30 minutes run time max to be safe on battery.
One other vital point. Use max size of 128k on the sd card and do a FULL overwrite every few recording sessions or you will also have corrupted data. Remove card and full overwrite on your PC.
Go pro sucks in that regard, until you know the work around. Now I NEVER have issues.
If you ride above 70 miles per hour, any glass on the go pro mounted in any location will eventually get hitby something that will break it. ALWAYS use a lens protector glass like you do on your phone, or mount in a dive case. Because physics...
Insta 360 coming next week. Pretty much everyone who compares it to go pro says it is the way to go.
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Newer action cameras do a pretty good job at filtering out wind noise, in addition they provide a few different audio settings.
Placing the camera where it will be protected from the wind helps a ton with recording quality audio. If that is not possible there are a few alternatives that can help:
...
I would also suggest tethering your camera to a 2nd point on your bike. I had a adhesive mount fail and my tether prevented the camera from bouncing down the road.
Great point about the tether.
Also, never use cheap non go pro mounts. The plastic will break, lost a camera that way.
Subscribed to your youtube. Post more please!
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Pard, the go pro issues and the total overwrite of the SD card is because they are using total shit cards. You can get them dirt cheap, which is what they do, to give them to YOU not so dirt cheap. OR you can spend the few extra bucks and get better certified SD cards that won't corrupt or leave abunch of crap on them.
The 20 percent corrupting thing is just terrible, for the money you pay for those things and all the new 'upgrades' you'd think they'd figure that one out. Doesn't it save your vids in like 5 minute segments tho so you only lose the last segment? or does it corrupt the entire SD. Again even if it wiped one file on it that should NOT corrupt the entire drive, those can be picked apart like an HDD with the proper software and fat tables etc restored.
I want to say Grade 10 but not sure what the new names for the technology are but getting a much higher grade SD card to put into the thing and see if that helps with the corruption problems first. That's just a shitty SD card there.
Aaron
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Pard, the go pro issues and the total overwrite of the SD card is because they are using total shit cards. You can get them dirt cheap, which is what they do, to give them to YOU not so dirt cheap. OR you can spend the few extra bucks and get better certified SD cards that won't corrupt or leave abunch of crap on them.
The 20 percent corrupting thing is just terrible, for the money you pay for those things and all the new 'upgrades' you'd think they'd figure that one out. Doesn't it save your vids in like 5 minute segments tho so you only lose the last segment? or does it corrupt the entire SD. Again even if it wiped one file on it that should NOT corrupt the entire drive, those can be picked apart like an HDD with the proper software and fat tables etc restored.
I want to say Grade 10 but not sure what the new names for the technology are but getting a much higher grade SD card to put into the thing and see if that helps with the corruption problems first. That's just a shitty SD card there.
Aaron
Excellent points!
I use a samsung EVO 128 card now, that seems to give the most reliable result for me of those I have tried.
What do you recommend as quality?
Correct, the video does get segmented, but some are as long as 20 minutes. Not sure how that works, and you can get that whole segment corrupted. True, there is software to recover, but who needs that PITA. Avoid it in the first place by never letting the battery reach 20%
Once you know the common issues, it is a great camera.
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What happens at 20 percent exactly? Does the camera shut off? THAT right there just makes no sense!! even from a data standpoint. If the fucker is dying on the write, the parity check should kill it immediately, and it's SOLID STATE FFS!! You don't have field strengths, head sway, flutter or any of that BS to worry about on a write command on a 'control power crisis' event with a solid state device. They make solid state hard drives, which get written and re written CONSTANTLY that don't corrupt. You can get a fkn TERABYTES drive for a hundred bucks or so that will take probably millions of RW ops.
It's like the world is Digital HD, and they are clinging to their NTSC standards, lets snag another drive out of the TRS-80 shall we?
If it's that unreliable then the camera should shut itself OFF at that point, because for all purposes it is NOT USEABLE at that point. Im surprised there isn't a class action out on that yet, false advertisement, you claim 70 minutes and it only is reliable for 40 type thing.
No matter what, if it KNOWS it's power is waning and it's not like a blown fuse or something just yanking the plug, it should shut itself OFF, NOT corrupt the file! Throw in an extra $3.00 of chips to have a volt reg for your write assembly so if it's sagging, you BOOST IT, then once you see it's sagging, TURN THE CAMERA OFF before it CORRUPTS!!
Sorry for the rant, but that is just poor 3rd world crap right there, you'd expect a lot better from a company as big as them.
Let me do a bit of research and see what I can find as for the highest quality chips you can get. It's a lot to do with the 'cells' how many spares .vs. how fast they are expected to corrupt, stuff like that but let's not get too geeky.
Aaron
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Exactly the complaint everyone has about it. The camera does not shut off and protect your files. It keeps running and corrupts them. Should be a super easy software fix, but I suspect they do not do it because that would demonstrate how poor real world battery life actually is.
Like I said, once you know, it is a very reliable and capable camera.
The 360 cameras are better because they are capturing everything ahead and behind at the same time. You would have to run 4 regular cameras for that.
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Example of how the insta 360 is next level compared to older go pros. Go pro does make a 360 camera as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9fkcGg-Qgc
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which one would you think is better the insta or the go pro. Given GP's corruption problem Id look at the other one first tbh.
aaron
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which one would you think is better the insta or the go pro. Given GP's corruption problem Id look at the other one first tbh.
aaron
I have an insta coming next week. Will give it a workout and a full review.
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Looking forward to that.
So how exactly does a 360 camera work, it records at all angles and when you edit you just pan in and out to select which arc of angles to show in the video? Get enough MP on it and you can probably do some serious pan in and out and zooming too as needed.
That might be something interesting to use on the track so you can see the track, the angle, the rider, lean angle and all that stuff if you placed it correctly, or work 2 in tandem.
Ill wait for your review before I pull the trigger on one of those though. I got an older go pro ill get a case for and throw on the bike to test the waters. So they WILL run continuously on the USB power coming off a cable?
Aaron
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Lots of videos about how to setup the insta 360 on a motorcycle and how it works. Fascinating tech.
https://blog.insta360.com/how-does-a-360-camera-work
Go Pro is great off bike usb power.
Key to hassle free success: Samsung 128 evo card and you can record for 8 hours. Make sure you power off the go pro before you power off the bike or you will corrupt the file. Format in full via your PC after you pull your ride footage, then format again in the camera before shooting again.
Just need to get the battery passthrough door and cable to run it like that:
https://gopro.com/en/us/shop/mounts-accessories/usb-pass-through-door/ADCOD-001.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVWikncEsjM
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One more critical piece of advice about running Go Pro off external power!!!!!!!!!!
Remove the battery when doing so. If you run it off external power while the battery is in place the unit will both corrupt your files, and overheat/lock up.
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They STILL have the over heat problem? Man, the more I start paying attention to the Go Pro reviews the bigger POS it seems to be! Yah it's a one trick pony, which serves it's purpose in a world full of narcissists and self absorbed people but anyone wanting something with a bit more reliability, should probably look elsewhere. My friend owns a computer shop and shown me his 69 dollar knock off camera and to be honest, the quality was just as good as Go Pro and it didn't have all the problems and crap. No it didn't have all the fluffer stuff the GP does but if you are going to edit at home anyways, then why do you need all that on your camera etc?
When I look at high speed vids I look for pixilation and blocking, which tells me the camera can't handle the bandwidth that is needed or a piss poor codec is being used and it's over compressed, but that will show in other places too. Artifacting, vignetting, spoking, are other indications of 'data handling problems'. Which is why you need a FAST video card. But along with FAST comes QUALITY, fast that corrupts if you look at it wrong is not good either. How many R / RW can it take, how does it handle corrupted cells? Can you get a true report or is your TRUE memory a locked number???
No I am not a producer of HD quality videos and NO I do not have a massive studio but I understand fully how all this stuff works and DO recognize quality when I see it, or cutting corners.
Aaron
PS to get back on topic, having a camera down there by the shocks should also help show you how your new Olin's are performing when you hit the rough spots on the road.
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Some more data on tire testing.
The Michelin Power GP tires are superb. Great handling. Very confidence inspiring grip.
As compared to the Mitas tires I had on there last, the Power GP tires allow me to get on the throttle more aggressively while leaned over and coming out of a corner, without the traction control intervening. I consider that to be an objective data point that indicates superior grip.
These tires require a pressure of 39 front and 36 rear cold, to get a 10% increase in pressure when hot. 10% front and 10-20% rear increase cold to hot is a good rule of thumb for setting tire pressure for performance riding.
I was getting wear on the tires that indicated both front and rear rebound needed adjustment. Following the guidlines described by Dave Moss, below, that irregular wear was eliminated. Note that these adjustments are to be made only after you already dialed in your suspension for proper sag. Get professional help on this if you are not able to do it yourself. I had a pro do it for me.
You make adjustments for rebound based on tire wear AFTER you set it in the garage for best static performance. Real world rebound requirements may or may not differ from what you set in the shop.
Dave Moss:
"The most common type of tire wear on street motorcycle tires is the leading edge being rounded down as the picture above demonstrates. Based on the rotation of the wheel (going right to left in this picture), the first edge to touch the pavement would be the leading edge.
You will see in most cases that this is common tire wear for all motorcycles irrespective of category or weight. It is also very expensive as this portion of the tire is being rapidly eroded.
How does it happen?
Rebound damping on the rear shock is incorrect due to the speed of return post impact with a bump in the road is too quick. This happens over time as oil degrades and when hot, shock or fork oil flows faster. As a result, if you have no damping adjustment, this wear is a signal that the fork and/or shock oil needs changing. If the rear shock is not serviceable, then a replacement must be acquired.
If you do have one screw for the rear shock or a screw marked TEN or REB, going clockwise in small increments such as a quarter turn will restrict the flow or slow down the speed of oil flow and this will reduce or potentially eliminate the wear. There is a limit of course and when you run out of adjustment and the wear is not controlled, it is time for fresh oil! That being said, knowing when you are 1 to 3/4 of a turn from maximum allows you to plan and budget.
Not attending to this can accelerate wear by 60% and we all know how expensive tires are to purchase.
Not attending to this wear also means that your motorcycle porpoises in corners when leaned over and that requires more effort form you to control it in EvErY corner.
Do you really want to expend that much effort per corner in a one hour ride when a quarter or half turn clockwise/right could create a massive positive impact on your chassis for mid corner stability and energy depletion? Get those sleeves rolled up and get to work with an allen or screwdriver tool and see where you are in your range of adjustment to see if a service or upgrade is urgent or in the near future!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYU_z65hQSQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0fimrDitRQ
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You know, the fact that he got borked and put in the back of the pack so to say on the race, actually was a GOOD thing.
Him blowing by everyone to get where he was, with little to no extreme effort on his part shows the superb handling and balls of the bike. The fact he was able to sigh, go, whatever, ... get out of my way, and woof up to 10th in one lap. ..
That speaks tons for the bike and it's abilities in qualified hands.
People hopefully see, not only what he did, but how rather effortlessly he was able to do it with that bike.
Aaron
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They STILL have the over heat problem? Man, the more I start paying attention to the Go Pro reviews the bigger POS it seems to be! Yah it's a one trick pony, which serves it's purpose in a world full of narcissists and self absorbed people but anyone wanting something with a bit more reliability, should probably look elsewhere. My friend owns a computer shop and shown me his 69 dollar knock off camera and to be honest, the quality was just as good as Go Pro and it didn't have all the problems and crap. No it didn't have all the fluffer stuff the GP does but if you are going to edit at home anyways, then why do you need all that on your camera etc?
When I look at high speed vids I look for pixilation and blocking, which tells me the camera can't handle the bandwidth that is needed or a piss poor codec is being used and it's over compressed, but that will show in other places too. Artifacting, vignetting, spoking, are other indications of 'data handling problems'. Which is why you need a FAST video card. But along with FAST comes QUALITY, fast that corrupts if you look at it wrong is not good either. How many R / RW can it take, how does it handle corrupted cells? Can you get a true report or is your TRUE memory a locked number???
No I am not a producer of HD quality videos and NO I do not have a massive studio but I understand fully how all this stuff works and DO recognize quality when I see it, or cutting corners.
Aaron
PS to get back on topic, having a camera down there by the shocks should also help show you how your new Olin's are performing when you hit the rough spots on the road.
First ride with the Insta 360 X3.
It works out of the box. Files don't get corrupted, battery lasts for over an hour with plenty left.
Mounting on the motorcycle with the included clamp is not perfect. It works itself loose during the ride even after making it super tight. Scared to mount it behind as a result.
Will try the sticky mount route next.
Very cool that it captures 360 of the ride so you can go back and select what views you want.
That leads to the first issue I have with it. I need to study how the editing software works to get the footage I want. Not a small task.
Will post up some footage once I figure out how to produce it.
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Isn't there some 3rd party software,like say photoshop or something you can use to edit your files? Or are they using some proprietary format that only their shit works on, and then you have to convert to a final format? Yah that is a bit of a slow down having to learn a new editing software and it's quirks etc.
Waiting to see what you end up with for us !
Aaron
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O.K. here is the first very poor attempt at editing. Watched a bunch of tutorials and used the Insta 360 desktop studio to edit. I just need to practice. Definitely an art to doing it well. Alternatively there is option to let the programs AI create clips, which is does well, but it tends to focus on the rider all the time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0417fyLHA0
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Frankly, I prefer the go pro.
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Thanks for posting the video!
I'm impressed with the X3's sensor and or it's processing power being able to "almost" deal with difficult lighting conditions. Playing with the ISO might help reduce the sky from being overexposed. Not sure you can mount one but running a ND filter lets you set a longer shutter speed giving smother motion.
Have not played with 3D video editing yet. Based on the tutorial I just watched it seems easy in theory but suspect the rabbit hole is deep. IMO for moto vids to work with horizon lock some part of the bike needs to be in frame. Without something leaning it frame it gives me a floating vibe.
Mounting on the motorcycle with the included clamp is not perfect. It works itself loose during the ride even after making it super tight. Scared to mount it behind as a result.
There are a number of mounting options out there for the 1/4 threading used on the X3. My suggestion for frame or bar mounting a camera is a tube clamps like the one I linked below. You can also get extension arms for more mounting flexibility. Try to minimize mounts that use plastic components as they can cause flex. Things like RAM mount balls and extensions do not work, I invested way too much $ going down that road.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062U2M4E/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062U2M4E/)
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Thanks for posting the video!
I'm impressed with the X3's sensor and or it's processing power being able to "almost" deal with difficult lighting conditions. Playing with the ISO might help reduce the sky from being overexposed. Not sure you can mount one but running a ND filter lets you set a longer shutter speed giving smother motion.
Have not played with 3D video editing yet. Based on the tutorial I just watched it seems easy in theory but suspect the rabbit hole is deep. IMO for moto vids to work with horizon lock some part of the bike needs to be in frame. Without something leaning it frame it gives me a floating vibe.
Mounting on the motorcycle with the included clamp is not perfect. It works itself loose during the ride even after making it super tight. Scared to mount it behind as a result.
There are a number of mounting options out there for the 1/4 threading used on the X3. My suggestion for frame or bar mounting a camera is a tube clamps like the one I linked below. You can also get extension arms for more mounting flexibility. Try to minimize mounts that use plastic components as they can cause flex. Things like RAM mount balls and extensions do not work, I invested way too much $ going down that road.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062U2M4E/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062U2M4E/)
@Demoni , most welcome. I actually have that clamp as it comes with the motorcycle kit package from Insta 360.
Using a gloved hand and all my strength tightening the clamp, it still works loose over the course of a ride. Next time I will use a wrench to tighten it with some extra leverage. See if that holds. Not going to run it behind me until I am certain it will stay put.
Agree that plastic mounts are risky due to the weight and wind drag on the camera. It has a larger wind resistance profile than a go pro , and further distance from the mount base, so the force can be significant.
Not clear to me how one can even tether the camera to the bike. I have lost a go pro that was not tethered. Not inclined to make that mistake again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVWikncEsjM
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I understand mounting tight so it don't go anywhere hopefully, and to keep the camera from bouncing all over when travelling and making the video jittery, but one must also keep in mind, the shock going INTO the camera. IF it's say just bolted to the frame, every bump you hit, there is no buffering, that jarring is heading right into the camera, eventually that is going to stress wear stuff out. Break stuff internally and externally. Some sort of rubber buffer, like between the mount and frame will keep it tight but will give you worlds better support longevity over time.
I ran into this problem on my boat with my GPS / Sonar's, the bang bang and vibration on the waves would just tear up the plastic, AND the metal too, any 90 corners on that cheap shitty bracket? I can pretty much guarantee they did not heat stress relieve that thing, they just stamped them out and it will break over time too. A bike would be no different shock wise.
Finally, and I am pretty sure you know this but if you are tethering, make sure the tether is short enough / positioned in a place that if it ever WERE to let loose, that caught on the tether swinging camera does not swing it's way into say your chain sprocket or somewhere it could cause a hazard to you.
Aaron
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I understand mounting tight so it don't go anywhere hopefully, and to keep the camera from bouncing all over when travelling and making the video jittery, but one must also keep in mind, the shock going INTO the camera. IF it's say just bolted to the frame, every bump you hit, there is no buffering, that jarring is heading right into the camera, eventually that is going to stress wear stuff out. Break stuff internally and externally. Some sort of rubber buffer, like between the mount and frame will keep it tight but will give you worlds better support longevity over time.
I ran into this problem on my boat with my GPS / Sonar's, the bang bang and vibration on the waves would just tear up the plastic, AND the metal too, any 90 corners on that cheap shitty bracket? I can pretty much guarantee they did not heat stress relieve that thing, they just stamped them out and it will break over time too. A bike would be no different shock wise.
Finally, and I am pretty sure you know this but if you are tethering, make sure the tether is short enough / positioned in a place that if it ever WERE to let loose, that caught on the tether swinging camera does not swing it's way into say your chain sprocket or somewhere it could cause a hazard to you.
Aaron
All good points! Thank you!
Tested mounting it today on the long selfie stick off the rear of bike with a wrench tight clamp. Worked a charm and stayed put for 70 miles. You can see a shadow of the camera and stick in this pic, while the software eliminates it from actual view. Can't believe your eyes anymore!
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Insta 360 Studio used for editing has this AI function that creates an edit of your footage that it thinks is cool. Here is an example. Not the kind of footage I value. I prefer a non distorted single angle view that helps me experience the action and observe the movement of the rider or bike. I have yet to figure out even with view locked, how to get a distortion free view like I can with go pro linear setting.
Major thread derail, but feel free to keep the topic going!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YCpV38M_10
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Insta 360 X3 battery lasts for about 75 minutes. Running it off of USB power, with the battery removed, like I do the Go Pro is the solution to have longer run times and not worry about battery swaps.
This is a nifty solution:
https://3brpowersports.com/products/x-pwr-x3-all-weather-external-power-for-insta360-x3-camera
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Insta 360 X3 battery lasts for about 75 minutes. Running it off of USB power, with the battery removed, like I do the Go Pro is the solution to have longer run times and not worry about battery swaps.
Is there a reason you remove the battery from the camera when running off USB? No battery means less weight and probably less heat, but if the USB slips or there is a interruption in the 5V supply your camera turns off.
This is a nifty solution:
https://3brpowersports.com/products/x-pwr-x3-all-weather-external-power-for-insta360-x3-camera
I like that the case locks the USB cable in place and a hole for a tether. But adding additional weight to a camera on a long stick sounds like a recipe for bouncy video.
Tested mounting it today on the long selfie stick off the rear of bike with a wrench tight clamp. Worked a charm and stayed put for 70 miles. You can see a shadow of the camera and stick in this pic, while the software eliminates it from actual view. Can't believe your eyes anymore!
Glad the clamp held tight. Great photo too! Love the behind (or in front) view you can capture using a 360 camera. Makes a amazing tool for understanding things you can improve about your body position.
That said the most epic camera position award goes to...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3yX5AqyjfU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3yX5AqyjfU)
I understand mounting tight so it don't go anywhere hopefully, and to keep the camera from bouncing all over when travelling and making the video jittery, but one must also keep in mind, the shock going INTO the camera.
Great point. My BMW moto destroyed the image stabilized camera on my old iPhone due to vibrations. A camera mounted way out on a carbon tube should be fine as the mount will dampen most vibrations. I agree some sort of rubber pad to decouple the camera from the bike would be a good idea for more rigid mounting options.
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Is there a reason you remove the battery from the camera when running off USB? No battery means less weight and probably less heat, but if the USB slips or there is a interruption in the 5V supply your camera turns off.
On the GoPro I remove the battery when on USB power for several reasons. When plugged in, the power cable charges the battery causing overheating, removing the battery saves weight, and eliminates file corruption episodes due to the battery drain exceeding the charge rate.
I use the special pass through door on the go pro that secures the cable. Never lost connection in thousands of miles running it that way.
https://gopro.com/en/us/shop/mounts-accessories/usb-pass-through-door/ADCOD-001.html
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Things that should be included with their camera they are going to charge you 20 dollars to get. That fucking door probably costs them a nickel to make. This is another thing i despise about the go pro, all the 'extras' many of which should really be included, and yet after ALL these years, they still can't fix the corruption and simple battery management. With all the millions they are making on aftermarket crap, you'd think they could afford an engineer worth a shit, or a spy so they can steal someone elses tech.
Aaron
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Sorry to derail the camera conversation.....
Can you tell the difference when the suspension is set up with rebound and compression on different fork legs? Like the Experia? I assume there is only compression dampening in one fork leg and only rebound dampening in the other fork leg. It seems like that would put weird flex forces on the fork tubes. I realize that engineers and math probably determined that the fork legs are rigid enough to withstand those forces....
but my feelings...they're valid right?
It just seems wonky after a lifetime of bikes with the same stuff in both fork legs.
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Sorry to derail the camera conversation.....
Can you tell the difference when the suspension is set up with rebound and compression on different fork legs? Like the Experia? I assume there is only compression dampening in one fork leg and only rebound dampening in the other fork leg. It seems like that would put weird flex forces on the fork tubes. I realize that engineers and math probably determined that the fork legs are rigid enough to withstand those forces....
but my feelings...they're valid right?
It just seems wonky after a lifetime of bikes with the same stuff in both fork legs.
Works better having them separate. Once the two forks are clamped together in the triple tree, they work as one unit.
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My conclusion about the Insta 360 X3 is that it is pretty much a gimmicky camera, not a tool for capturing realistic linear video. I will return to using the go pro for my main footage and use this as a 360 degree dash cam on the bike.
This video from today's ride is pretty cool, however odd looking...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTo7B56CmdA
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Insta 360 X3 captures pretty interesting views. Get both if you can. Go Pro and Insta 360. Very different tools.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLuw_e8mg_Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGkgwdmBMY4
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I was looking into a rear brake handle instead of the foot peg.
Does that take the place of the foot actuator or work with it, so you could use either if you wish?
Also, how did you do that? what items did you use for the rear hand brake?
aaron
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I was looking into a rear brake handle instead of the foot peg.
Does that take the place of the foot actuator or work with it, so you could use either if you wish?
Also, how did you do that? what items did you use for the rear hand brake?
aaron
I use the left hand rear brake while maintaining the function of the foot pedal.
You will need a left hand hydraulic master 12 or 13 mm port. A dual port rear master, I use one from a European manufacturer, Qnium. A custom brake line and a pressure brake bleeder.
Not the easiest thing to get working correctly, so you may want to have a mechanic install if you have any doubts.
Thread about it here:
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=12510.msg118481#msg118481
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The bike is running superbly...
https://youtu.be/hDDBlcJexzg
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That looks similar to one of the rides we took last weekend, not as many trees but crossing over bridges and the ocean, awesome scenery at times.
This is about the best time of year, and late feb / march for riding, beautiful weather, nice and cool out, and most the summer / yankee clowns back at work / school so it's not a parking lot on the road when you do want to go for a ride / romp.
Aaron
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^^ +1
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Old topic, but based on the excellent recomendations made in this thread, I mounted OZ Piega wheels on my Ribelle RS this weekend. I did a 100km test drive yesterday. I am very pleased with the result. Goal was to have a bike that is a bit more nimble on little twisty roads in forests behind the BMW GSes of my friends, especially on bad asphalt.
Well, I can say that the bike is definitely more nimbe, there is so much more control and trust in the corners as well. Also feels 15% more snappy on the throttle and braking is also noticeably better. I did not dare using Sport mode too much, because OMG the front lifts so easily. On my commute this morning I noticed a good energy consmption, but as we all know with electric, it's very difficult to standardize circumstances.
The only thing I might have to do is adjust is the compression and rebound of the Ohlins, because I get a bit more feedback on bumps in the handlebars and rear seat than I would like. The virtual stiffness has increased. Any experience here on how much? I think I will start with one click, drive and see what it does.
Furthermore I would say that a 100% commuter or non-performance driver would not take the full advantage of OZ wheels and would benefit more from a good rear shock and maybe upgraded Marzocchi fork internals.
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just go a click or two at a time. if it was feeling good before you swapped the adjustment should not be out that much. as you get 'sporty' in your riding, the bumps and ripples in the road tend to aggrivate things. click this way and its too stiff and banging you, click that way and it's a pogo stick. sometimes its difficult to get just right and that will change with the weather too. warmer days its a easier ride, when its cold or you just started out and tires are cold, it's stiffer.
if you lie on the top of the bike, like you are trying to duck all the way down behind the windshield it can help to keep it down on the road. those bumpy bumps and the bikes brick like aerodynamics can really lift the front end off the road when you start bouncing off road lumps. I find that pretty much around 130 ish and up is when the front end wants to start dancing, especially if you are pushing into a head wind. being bent over the bike helps keep it stable and puts it back down easy when she does come up for a little bit of a peek a boo w/o too much attitude from the forks. Even the stock forks that came with it before i converted it into a racer, if you came down hard it'd dampen a hard landing in an oscillation or two, imo you'd really have to fk up to get a tank slapper going.
the racing wheels are nice, but you also have to remember, road bikes, you do a LOT of straight line running, and if you are like me, might take advantage of those moments to have a little fun.... that'll wear down the center of your tire fairly quick, we call it the Florida Flat Spot out here, and with that, it can make things a bit more difficult getting into a tighter lean, because that flat spot don't want to let you transition cleanly, so as you go playing on your new rims, be mindful of that.
Aaron
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Thanks for the advice, I will experiment with one or two clicks first.
edit:2 clicks is already resulting in a sloppier ride, max 1 click it is.