ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: 2020_SRS_Commuter on February 14, 2023, 05:02:48 AM
-
My 2020 SRS premium was bought new and currently has about 35k miles. There is no problem with reaching 100SOC on the battery pack, but the charging process indicates a problem.
When I charge at home with the supplied Webasto charger, charging occurs with no problems on 120 or 240v.
On the 240v the display shows I think 32A when charging. 12A for 120V. Works great.
The fans run well on both chargers and there is nothing abnormal that I observed there.
At work I connect to one of the 4 ChargePoints I have access to, and it attempts to charge at 6kw, 56A. I have not personally observed this until recently as it delays charging until just before its time for me to go home, while I am away in the workplace. Its usually finished when I walk out there.
About two weeks ago I arrived at the bike a bit early after work, and it was not done charging. I observed that it would reach 50+ amps, click off, drop to zero, restart, ramp to 50, click off, over and over. There was a kind of crackly noise coming from the bike that sounded like arcing or sparking. A day or two later that particular chargepoint quit working and I attributed the weirdness to that one having a problem. I mean, my bike is charging up all the way every day still, I'm just not normally there to see it.
Last night I was unable to connect during my work shift because the stations were all occupied, so after a person left when my shift was over I connected to another Chargepoint thing that was not the one I just mentioned, and sat down to wait so I could charge up and head home.
I observed that it would achieve 56A, click, drop to 28A, ramp back up to 56A, click, ramp back up, etc. How long it remained at 56a before clicking and dropping back to to 28A varied... it might hold that current level for 1 second or 10 or 20 seconds. Whenever it started ramping up from 28 to 56, or holding at 56, I could hear that same crackling noise. I could not tell which charger it was coming from, if thats where it is coming from. It also seemed like the fans on both chargers kept going... ones fans didnt stop when the click-off occured, as far as I could tell from holding my hands in there to feel the air.
Im guessing one charger has partially failed. Just a guess. When I charge at the lower currents at home there is never an issue.
I wonder, if you are using the Webasto charger at home, are both chargers working at a partial load at that time? Or does the second one only fire up if you have a signal that it can pull full current?
I also wonder if I can buy a replacement charger and try swapping one, then the other if needed, to see if the problem goes away. I dispise the dealer I have access to and I want to avoid them servicing the bike if I can.
Any advice? The good news is it still works.
-
"At work I connect to one of the 4 ChargePoints I have access to, and it attempts to charge at 6kw, 56A.:
That needs clarification. Are you saying 6KW at 56 amps? That doesn't make any sense at all, unless you're charging with 107.4 volts as that will be 6KW and we know that is impossible on a SR/S.
107.4 volts times 56 amps=6KW. No other way to charge at 6KW, other than with 107.4 volts, with 56 amps being drawn.
So nothing is adding up.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
What I meant by that is Im looking at the screen on the bike, and the upper right of the screen shows 56 and the lower right shows 6. Then it clicks, and the 56 drops to 28, the 6 drops to 3 something, and it ramps back up again. Im just reporting what I see on the screen.
-
My experience with my Fiat 500e has taught me never to depend on a Chargepoint actually working. About half the time they refuse to charge my car and cause it to throw up warnings and error codes. And I’ve learned from the forums that this is common with Chargepoint. I wouldn’t plug my Zero into one unless I absolutely had to. They are the only stations I ever have problems with. You might try reporting the problem to Chargepoint if you haven’t. Some say reporting problems gets the station fixed, at least for a while.
-
My experience with my Fiat 500e has taught me never to depend on a Chargepoint actually working. About half the time they refuse to charge my car and cause it to throw up warnings and error codes. And I’ve learned from the forums that this is common with Chargepoint. I wouldn’t plug my Zero into one unless I absolutely had to. They are the only stations I ever have problems with. You might try reporting the problem to Chargepoint if you haven’t. Some say reporting problems gets the station fixed, at least for a while.
So far, I have found ChargePoint to be the most reliable of them all.
It is Electrify America that often gives me problems on my 2020 SS9--Except for the one in Fernley, NV. Not sure why, but that one has worked for me every time. But countless others, I had to give up on.
But I hear some of the newer versions of ChargePoint do not like the 21.5 KWH battery--I have no idea why. I hope my Experia with the 22.5 KWH battery will be okay with ChargePoint as it is what I use most often. I will soon know.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
I can tell you that both chargers always work, even on 120v. You can see that info if you tap into the MBB through the OBD port. They each put out about half of the current so you might be right about one of the chargers working intermittently. Do the chargers each have a relay? I don't know about that. On my 2020 SR/S it always shows 5.8 KW on the dash while charging on 220v. If there are relays on each separate charger it might just be the relay. The sound might be the relay contacts arcing. I only hear the main contactor close when I start a charge but I will listen more closely tomorrow when I charge. I suppose if there are charger relays they could be internal. You couldn't just get any charger because it would have to be programed for the Zero CAN communication. It seems like you would get an error code of some kind.
As to the Charge Point chargers, I use them all the time and have found them to be good so maybe that is just on the Fiat. My Chevy Spark has a couple of charger brands that don't like it.
-
when you charge at home with 220v you use only one phase and one charger, with 3 phase charge station you use 2 phases and 2 x 3kw chargers.
now to understand where is the problem ... is not easy, maybe the charge station have problems on the second phase and charger disconnect until voltage is stable.. but if you find the same problem on all charge stations i think the problem is on the bike.
my suggestion is to remove cables from second chargers, check connectors humidity and apply dielectric sillicon grease if is required... maybe is only oxidation problem.
regards
Artur
-
when you charge at home with 220v you use only one phase and one charger, with 3 phase charge station you use 2 phases and 2 x 3kw chargers.
now to understand where is the problem ... is not easy, maybe the charge station have problems on the second phase and charger disconnect until voltage is stable.. but if you find the same problem on all charge stations i think the problem is on the bike.
my suggestion is to remove cables from second chargers, check connectors humidity and apply dielectric sillicon grease if is required... maybe is only oxidation problem.
regards
Artur
I assume you are in Europe. Commuter mentions charging on 120v so is in the US. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think the US uses single phase 240. I believe that US and European bikes are wired differently.
-
This is how the chargers work on 120v
-
when you charge at home with 220v you use only one phase and one charger, with 3 phase charge station you use 2 phases and 2 x 3kw chargers.
now to understand where is the problem ... is not easy, maybe the charge station have problems on the second phase and charger disconnect until voltage is stable.. but if you find the same problem on all charge stations i think the problem is on the bike.
my suggestion is to remove cables from second chargers, check connectors humidity and apply dielectric sillicon grease if is required... maybe is only oxidation problem.
regards
Artur
I assume you are in Europe. Commuter mentions charging on 120v so is in the US. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think the US uses single phase 240. I believe that US and European bikes are wired differently.
Im in USA, so in my home two phases of 120v are provided. One phase charging uses one of the phases and the neutral. The other is both phase of course.
-
Thanks for all the replies. I did click notify but somehow it... didnt.
I hope it IS the relay, that hopefully is replaceable, and those chargers must cost a fortune.
From my days in PC repair decades ago I was always cautioned not to run a switching power supply with no load. IDK why, its just what people said. So if the relay burns open and a charger has no load I suppose I'll have to stop limping along with it and tear it down.
Logically it makes sense that relay contacts are the issue because at this point anyway its directly correlated with how much current is flowing. Lower current, no problems. For now.
-
My experience with my Fiat 500e has taught me never to depend on a Chargepoint actually working. About half the time they refuse to charge my car and cause it to throw up warnings and error codes. And I’ve learned from the forums that this is common with Chargepoint. I wouldn’t plug my Zero into one unless I absolutely had to. They are the only stations I ever have problems with. You might try reporting the problem to Chargepoint if you haven’t. Some say reporting problems gets the station fixed, at least for a while.
I've had good luck with the chargepoints at work. I also appreciate that they answer the phone quickly. I report issues to them when I see them. The flaw in this system is they then have to deal with the "Station Owner" and receive permission for, and money for, the repair. In this case the station owner is my employer, a severely bloated and decaying large corporation. So sometimes fixes take months. We had four but have been down to three for quite some time, and meanwhile more and more people are using them.
-
Im in USA, so in my home two phases of 120v are provided. One phase charging uses one of the phases and the neutral. The other is both phase of course.
US household wiring is fed by single phase 240V (two hot wires) with a center tap on the input transformer (neutral wire) to split it into two 120V circuits.
-
I've had good luck with the chargepoints at work.
Are you referring to a J-1772? All they are is the AC input (like a power outlet) to the charger in your bike. A j-1772 is NOT a charger, it's just an AC power source. They are common at workplaces and rarely give anybody any issues, regardless of make.
OTOH, CCS true DC chargers are often kinda flakey. They run too complicated of a program-- so countless different makes and models of EV can use it. I have not heard of any workplaces that had CCS chargers.
-Don-
-
I was referring to a ChargePoint station, the kind where it has two plugs for EVs and you present either a credit card or a ChargePoint account card to the reader to use it. I'm aware its a source of AC. I don't think they are the source of the problem I'm having. Maybe wrong. There are two different stations there and it happens with both of them.
I think the reason I see the problem at those Chargepoints at work, and not at home, because they tell the bike to pull 56A, instead of the 36 I get with the Webasto at my house. I think the problem occurs at higher currents only. At least for now. Maybe it gets worse before I get a chance to work with it. Im guessing if I had Level 2 charger in my garage capable of 56A I would see the same problem at home.
-
I was referring to a ChargePoint station, the kind where it has two plugs for EVs and you present either a credit card or a ChargePoint account card to the reader to use it. I'm aware its a source of AC. I don't think they are the source of the problem I'm having. Maybe wrong. There are two different stations there and it happens with both of them.
I think the reason I see the problem at those Chargepoints at work, and not at home, because they tell the bike to pull 56A, instead of the 36 I get with the Webasto at my house. I think the problem occurs at higher currents only. At least for now. Maybe it gets worse before I get a chance to work with it. Im guessing if I had Level 2 charger in my garage capable of 56A I would see the same problem at home.
A ChargePoint with two cables can either be a fast DC charger (CCS plus CHAdeMO) or a slow AC (J-1772) charger. But I now see I am in the Zero Forum, which means you can only charge with AC input to the bike. 56 amps at 240 VAC is 7KW. What type of charging configuration does your bike have? Most, but not all Charge points can do 7KW. But to be sure, read the labels and other info. shown on the J-1772. The info. is always there somewhere. I don't mean what you're charging with, I mean the current capacity of the charge machine that you can read without your bike being there. I always look at them. I have found a few that can only do 3KW (13 amps) and others that can do around 17KW (70 amps). Not all J-1772's are the same, not even from the same company.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
Thanks!
These are not the DC kind of chargers. Each of the two Charge Point stations has two plugs that both are the AC power kind. Any of them will fit into my SRS.
I don't know what these stations are rated at, but I will examine them when I return to work tomorrow and plug in. Maybe it says it on their video screen. There are no markings otherwise.
The ampere and kw readings I'm referring to is what's shown on my SRS's display. When it shows 56A it also shows 6kw. My guess is what its showing is the output of the onboard chargers, not what's going into them. Its the "premium" model so there are two chargers, 3+ kw, I dont know their exact ratings.
The way I understand it is there is a 2500Hz square wave across two of the pins in the station's connector that has some data encoded on it, that tells the charging vehicle how much current it is allowed to pull.
-
Thanks!
These are not the DC kind of chargers. Each of the two Charge Point stations has two plugs that both are the AC power kind. Any of them will fit into my SRS.
I don't know what these stations are rated at, but I will examine them when I return to work tomorrow and plug in. Maybe it says it on their video screen. There are no markings otherwise.
The ampere and kw readings I'm referring to is what's shown on my SRS's display. When it shows 56A it also shows 6kw. My guess is what its showing is the output of the onboard chargers, not what's going into them. Its the "premium" model so there are two chargers, 3+ kw, I dont know their exact ratings.
The way I understand it is there is a 2500Hz square wave across two of the pins in the station's connector that has some data encoded on it, that tells the charging vehicle how much current it is allowed to pull.
The Control Pilot signal is a 1 kHz square wave at ±12 volts.
-Don- Colfax, CA (charging up my Experia)
-
Rereading your original post you mention a clicking sound when the charge amps dropped. Is this coming from the bike or the charger. Or call the charger an EVSE to avoid confusion if you want or a charge station, or level 2 charger or level 2 EVSE to be really correct.
Anyway, there might be issues with the chargers at your workplace so to be sure go to a commercial level 2 EVSE and try it. Make sure it is rated 6.6 or more. Usually stated on the level 2 EVSE. 6.6 is common but there are lower ratings and then of course the Charge Point shared ones that split the power when 2 EVs are plugged in.
I am assuming the Charge point chargers at work are just the small box type with no screen to view charging information. You could ask a coworker with an EV how many KW they are seeing when they charge.
-
I am assuming the Charge point chargers at work are just the small box type with no screen to view charging information. You could ask a coworker with an EV how many KW they are seeing when they charge.
The info. is often NOT on the screen but printed on the box itself. Be sure to read the fine print.
I have yet to see one where I cannot read the info. one way or another. And not only that, many work place charge stations are listed on Plugshare. And if it is not, any Plugshare member with the info. can list it.
I assume most of us here are Plugshare members. If not, you should be, it's free to join.
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
The ampere and kw readings I'm referring to is what's shown on my SRS's display. When it shows 56A it also shows 6kw. My guess is what its showing is the output of the onboard chargers, not what's going into them. Its the "premium" model so there are two chargers, 3+ kw, I dont know their exact ratings.
That is correct, what you're seeing on the bike's display is what your chargers are putting out to the battery, not what the EVSE is pulling from the grid (at a higher voltage.)
-
This is what I'm hooking up to at work.
Last night I took all the cladding off my Zero to start trying to find the problem so I rode my gas bike today.
On the way out tonight I'll look at the stations. I didn't want to go over there nosing around on the screen while all the other cars are hooked up in case people wondered what I was up to.
The clicking noise, and the arcing-crackling noise, both come from my motorcycle when the problem occurs.
I checked PlugShare... that could be handy. But it doesn't have these particular stations shown on it.
-
That is the common double Charge Point unit I have used many times. The KW is at the bottom of the screen and it will say "shared" if it is splitting the output when two EVs are plugged in. When you tap your card the screen changes and there is a picture of the pedestal with a cable on each side and the KW is there also. The KW is set by the owner and could be most anything. I have seen anything between 3.7 and 7.2. I would strongly suggest you try a similar public charger just to make sure it is your bike and not the EVSEs at your work place. Have you ever charged at a public EVSE before?
-
No I haven't tried a public one, but that is the next rational step. Now that all the cladding is removed except the front fender, I'll be in a better position to hear where the noise is coming from, and additionally I'll be able to try a non-work charger as you are describing.
Did not yet go out to the ones at work to see the charging rate, but I do intend to do that. On thursday or friday this week Im going to ride it out to a public charger and give it a go.
I also wrote to Zero to see if they would replace the chargers out of warranty, because I heard other people say that had happened with them. Something to do with water intrusion and uninsulated fans. They didn't reply (yet).
-
The ones in the parking lot I was using say 6.6kw on the screen. Zero replied to my email today so Im going to spend some time dealing with them and see what happens next. I'll let everyone know what happened.
-
Hi, to let everyone know what happened:
The emails from Zero basically just said see your dealer. Nothing there.
I took the bike apart enough to be able to hear which charger was making the noise, #1 to see if I could hear it and #2 to seal up what I think is the water intrusion point at the top of the battery pack at the rear.
I went to several Charge Point stations around where I live looking for one to test. That was a surprise. I took a while to find one to try! Some are behind gates at businesses or apartments, and a couple I could get to didn't work. Finally I found one at a Hampton Inn parking lot to try.
And... turns out my bike is fine. The problem is with the chargers at work. Connected there it ramped up to 56A and held a steady line all the way through without a hint of trouble and no noise.
The waterproofing I did I am going to post to other threads here about that topic.
Thanks to everyone who provided input, I learned much. Also glad I don't have to swap a charger as I think they are about 2k apiece.
-
And... turns out my bike is fine. The problem is with the chargers at work. Connected there it ramped up to 56A and held a steady line all the way through without a hint of trouble and no noise.
The waterproofing I did I am going to post to other threads here about that topic.
Thanks to everyone who provided input, I learned much. Also glad I don't have to swap a charger as I think they are about 2k apiece.
When you get to work and try to start charging, what is your SOC%?
Zeros do something strange when you try to charge them at too high of a SOC%. This will NOT apply to smaller Zeros that only use the OBC at 1.3KW.
Here is an example, which is confusing the first time you notice it. But this little experiment will prove what I am saying.
Start your 6KW chargers at 80% SOC or above. You will then be charging at less that 2KW all the way to 100% SOC.
Next, ride the bike so your SOC% is down to below 50%. Now charge it to 100% but take a look at 80% SOC when you get there. At that exact same 80%, now your charge will be close to your normal six KW.
I just don't see how your charge stations at work cannot work, if they work for anybody at all. These are NOT chargers, they are only a 240 VAC supply to connect to the DC charger in your bike. Not much to go wrong, unless it is something obvious, such as a blown CB, blank station screen, broken plug or switch, screen that says it is not in service, etc. If it looks normal, it should work on your bike. But if you have too high of a SOC% when you get there, it will not work as expected.
-Don- Reno, NV
-
When I get to work, there is always 35-55% left. I arrange it that way so it can sit in the SOC recommended by Zero. At 10:30pm the scheduled charge begins, and it gets pulled up to 90,95, or 100 depending on how cold it is, for the ride home. At 11:30pm I show up, load up, and go.
The only thing I can think of is at work perhaps there is some component of power distribution leading to the Chargepoint Stations that is faulty, so when a high current is pulled voltage drops, charging stops, then voltage rises, and it begins charging again... repeat.
I have a bit of cladding to finish putting back on and then I will resume riding to work and I'm going to try to correlate if this sizzle and cycle thing is related to other EVs charging at the same time. In my search for another public one to try, I found one that was 6.6kw, but "shared" so if two are on it at the same time they only get served 3.3kw. Maybe the people where I work set it up wrong for the supplied service, and its supposed to be shared, instead of 6.6kw to each user.
Just speculations, I really don't know why, but I can definitely observe what's happening. I emailed the person in charge of them to share what's going on and ask them to look into it.
Two other possibilities are
1) Due to some intermittent nature, being at a the other Charge Point Station for testing had nothing to do with it and the problem IS with my bike, the problem just didn't occur there.
2) Moving the charger and cabling around to seal the battery pack disturbed some bad connection somewhere. I cant believe this is the case but its technically possible.
-
And... turns out my bike is fine. The problem is with the chargers at work. Connected there it ramped up to 56A and held a steady line all the way through without a hint of trouble and no noise.
The waterproofing I did I am going to post to other threads here about that topic.
Thanks to everyone who provided input, I learned much. Also glad I don't have to swap a charger as I think they are about 2k apiece.
When you get to work and try to start charging, what is your SOC%?
Zeros do something strange when you try to charge them at too high of a SOC%. This will NOT apply to smaller Zeros that only use the OBC at 1.3KW.
Here is an example, which is confusing the first time you notice it. But this little experiment will prove what I am saying.
Start your 6KW chargers at 80% SOC or above. You will then be charging at less that 2KW all the way to 100% SOC.
Next, ride the bike so your SOC% is down to below 50%. Now charge it to 100% but take a look at 80% SOC when you get there. At that exact same 80%, now your charge will be close to your normal six KW.
I just don't see how your charge stations at work cannot work, if they work for anybody at all. These are NOT chargers, they are only a 240 VAC supply to connect to the DC charger in your bike. Not much to go wrong, unless it is something obvious, such as a blown CB, blank station screen, broken plug or switch, screen that says it is not in service, etc. If it looks normal, it should work on your bike. But if you have too high of a SOC% when you get there, it will not work as expected.
-Don- Reno, NV
I have never seen this 2K thing happen on my 2020 SR/S. I plugged into a 6.6 Charge Point Charger at Chiriaco Summit just today at 91% SOC and it went right up to 5.8K like it always does but not for very long as it starts to cutback the amps around 95%. Don, weren't you just here at the Salton Sea in your RV or am I thinking of someone else? If it was you, where do you stay?
-
I have never seen this 2K thing happen on my 2020 SR/S. I plugged into a 6.6 Charge Point Charger at Chiriaco Summit just today at 91% SOC and it went right up to 5.8K like it always does but not for very long as it starts to cutback the amps around 95%. Don, weren't you just here at the Salton Sea in your RV or am I thinking of someone else? If it was you, where do you stay?
I stayed a week at the Salton Sea SRA (NE side of SS) and then a week at Anza Borrego Desert State Park. There I stayed at Borrego Springs. You can see me charging my Zero DS here. (https://www.plugshare.com/location/360781)
I rushed back home when I received an E-mail that my Energica Experia was at A&S motorcycles in Roseville, CA. Long wait. I ordered that on June 1, 2022.
I will continue that RV trip in my other RV later next month.
I never tried starting a charge at 91%. Try 80% SOC sometime, if you can. I know that several Zeros have noticed the same thing, including both of mine as well as another guy on a 2020 Zero SR/S, just like yours. That was the guy who uses the name "lopsided" on Plugshare, so it also happens on newer bikes at around 80% SOC but only when starting the charge at around 80% SOC. I assume the BMS is doing something weird, so it's the battery, not the bike, as the BMS is inside the battery.
I made an assumption that it was at 80% or more, but for whatever reason, perhaps it doesn't happen when you start the charge at 91%. Not many try to recharge when up that high. Of course, the drop-off is expected at 95% no matter what SOC you started at.
-Don- Reno, NV
-
I have never seen this 2K thing happen on my 2020 SR/S. I plugged into a 6.6 Charge Point Charger at Chiriaco Summit just today at 91% SOC and it went right up to 5.8K like it always does but not for very long as it starts to cutback the amps around 95%. Don, weren't you just here at the Salton Sea in your RV or am I thinking of someone else? If it was you, where do you stay?
I try to not call those chargers, as they are only an AC supply as is an AC outlet inside you house. It feeds the charger in your bike. That's to avoid confusion with the real Chargepoint chargers (DC-CCS) that bypasses the charger in your bike. IOW, chargers can only put out DC, but usually take in AC. J-1772 and Tesla Destination stations are AC to feed your charger inside your bike so it can put the DC on your battery.
But that is not why I am writing this 2nd reply to you.
Plugshare shows nothing at all near Chiriaco Summit. If there really is a charge station there, please add it to Plugshare.
Whops, disregard it was just very slow to show up on my computer. I now see two locations there. Are you "Garry" who checked in on Feb 21 here? (https://www.plugshare.com/location/214053)
-Don- Reno, NV
-
Yes, That is me. Of course they are not really chargers but they are charge stations I suppose or charge points because you do charge there. I have given up on correcting people and just use the incorrect term. Lazy maybe. Like the charge cord you use on 120v. It's not really a charger at all but people call it that because you use it to charge the car or whatever you have. EVSE is such a meaningless term too. I trailered the bike down from Portland OR for a few months of avoiding the rain and cold. I suppose we are a bit off topic, ha ha
-
Looking today the chargers have 5 wires going in, in total. 3 big ones, maybe 8 gauge or something like that. Those are for power in no doubt.
There are also two small wires, a blue and a white, that I assume are for data. Enable the charger, tell how much current to draw, stop if battery overheats, etc. I experimented by disconnecting those two and charging at home on 240v.
With both connected I got the usual level of charging for home, but with one connected I got a new level I hadn't seen before, 2.9KW. I didnt try it with 120v. I verified the disconnected chargers fans didn't do the usual spin up when they first plug in. A banner appeared, Error: Charger Not Connected, then disappeared.
So.... even if my work does not fix the chargers, I think I can work around it. I'm going to install in the under tank storage bin two dual contact switches. They will be in series with these blue/white wires to the chargers. I can then enable/disable either charger. That way it draws a low enough current that this problem doesn't occur at work, whatever it is. I'll alternate chargers each week to even the wear on them.
The connectors for the wires that bring this data to the chargers are Deutsch DTM04-2P , the female, and DTM06-2S, the male. learned these are quite common and there are knockoffs on Amazon that are super cheap.
Using the switches, connectors, and some wire I can make something that plugs directly into the harness without otherwise modifying the bike.
Im assuming it does not damage the chargers to have voltage present on the input side if they are not turned on. Hope Im not wrong about that.
-
Heres the extra cable in there for the "Charge Tank" option, showing those wires and connectors.
A label on it says
56-08122 REV02 ACCESSORY CAN HARNESS
-
Hey just to finish up, my "solution" worked. I doubt anyone else will ever want or need to do this, but you can indeed disable one charger to limit your charging session to 3KW draw. As long as I do this at work, there is no problem. Charges just fine at the 3KW rate.
-
Here are the switches. I used the same 20ga wire, same colors, and cheap imitation Deutsch connectors.
The reason the storage is so shallow is because I put a false bottom in. Underneath it are tools for patching tires, a pump, and a spare belt.
-
I will resize those for this forum:
-
Hey just to finish up, my "solution" worked. I doubt anyone else will ever want or need to do this, but you can indeed disable one charger to limit your charging session to 3KW draw. As long as I do this at work, there is no problem. Charges just fine at the 3KW rate.
Doesn't the control pilot work for that?
My external chargers ignore the pilot signal so I do this here. (https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=8298.30)
-Don- Auburn, CA
-
Thanks, the pics do something weird here when I try to resize them to fit. IDK why.
I don't know what a control pilot is.
-
Thanks, the pics do something weird here when I try to resize them to fit. IDK why.
I don't know what a control pilot is.
Set your camera to the lowest possible resolution. But these days, some will not even go that low. Then you can resize them in Windows 10 by using "edit" & then "resize" IIRC. I use Windows 11, which is a little different. I use a free windows 11 program to do it. Most photo programs can resize.
To be non-technical, the pilot signal originates in a J-1772 station and sends a signal to your car's charger to prevent it from asking for more power than the J-1772 station can handle.
If there were no pilot signal, you would overload the J-1772 station if you have a 12 KW charger in your EV but connect to a seven KW J1772. That will blow a fuse or CB in the J-1772 station.
The pilot signal tells the EV to reduce its charger power to whatever the J1772 station can handle. IOW, it tells your 12 KW chargers in the EV to reduce their power to 7 KW or just below 7KW to be safe. Your 12 KW EV charger then becomes a 7KW charger or slightly less.
But for those who want the tech stuff, see here. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SAE_J1772) Read about connector pin 5, "CP" about a third down the long page where it says "properties" and then "connector".
-Don- Auburn, CA