ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Camellia on June 12, 2022, 09:30:52 AM
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I have a 2020 SR with the Charge Tank, and for some reason I can no longer charge at Level 2 stations like ChargePoint. When I plug in, the green battery light comes on for about a minute and the time to full estimate comes up on the screen at 0:00, but it never changes to a real time. After about a minute the green battery light turns off and no charging occurs. The ChargePoint station just says Not Charging. I tried multiple stations around town with the same result so I believe the problem is on my bike. I also noticed that I get error code 0047 "MBB Charger Connected Disable" but I don't know what to do about it. The slow charger still works perfectly and I can still charge at Level 1 at any wall outlet. Does anyone have any ideas? I would hate to take it to the dealer when the weather's so good, especially if it's a fuse or something I could fix myself.
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Well, have you checked the inline charge fuse located under the seat? The manual is easy enough to find online.
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Yes I have the manual. I hope it's not too hard to get the seat off since I got the luggage rack installed but I will check the fuses today.
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Well I got the seat off (in case anyone was wondering: it's still only 2 bolts to remove, even when you have the rack) and I found the low voltage fuses just fine, though I was really looking for this one: https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Gen2/Charging_Circuit_Fuse I agree that might be what went wrong, but there were just too many wires under there. I couldn't find it or even see it. Then I started to get scared because there were a lot of warnings about the 100A fuse and how it's not really user-serviceable and I just gave up. I'm sorry.
I put everything back together, and reset the BMS just because it was easy to access and something I could actually do. I doubt that will fix the problem but I feel like I'm in over my head and will probably take it to my dealer. I guess I don't really need Level 2 charging unless I go on a long trip, so I might not get it fixed right away.
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Well I got the seat off (in case anyone was wondering: it's still only 2 bolts to remove, even when you have the rack) and I found the low voltage fuses just fine, though I was really looking for this one: https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Gen2/Charging_Circuit_Fuse I agree that might be what went wrong, but there were just too many wires under there. I couldn't find it or even see it. Then I started to get scared because there were a lot of warnings about the 100A fuse and how it's not really user-serviceable and I just gave up. I'm sorry.
I put everything back together, and reset the BMS just because it was easy to access and something I could actually do. I doubt that will fix the problem but I feel like I'm in over my head and will probably take it to my dealer. I guess I don't really need Level 2 charging unless I go on a long trip, so I might not get it fixed right away.
Hi there! Please send us a DM and we can look into this for you.
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Update: A few days after I had posted about this, the onboard charger ALSO stopped working! As far as I can tell there was no precipitating event: all I know is that one night I plugged it in overnight to the same wall outlet in my garage I've been using as long as I've owned the bike, and then in the morning I came back to it not fully charged and the red light on the dash was blinking. I took it to my dealer right away.
About 4 weeks later, my bike is fixed. My dealer couldn't tell me what the root cause was but they replaced both the onboard charger and the Charge Tank. I'm pretty sure if it had just been that one 100A fuse they could have replaced the fuse or even the wiring harness, so it must have been a much more severe problem. They say they are going to have some words with Zero about why this would have happened to me.
Curiously, the check engine light stayed on all the way home (no error codes on the dash) and all the way to work the next day. It resolved itself somehow while I was at work and hasn't come back. I was able to charge at home in my usual spot and also at a ChargePoint station so at least both ways of charging work now.
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Curiously, the check engine light stayed on all the way home (no error codes on the dash) and all the way to work the next day. It resolved itself somehow while I was at work and hasn't come back. I was able to charge at home in my usual spot and also at a ChargePoint station so at least both ways of charging work now.
Since when did a Zero SR have a "check engine" light? Are you sure it wasn't the ABS light? What color is this light?
-Don- Auburn, CA
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They definitely have a "MOTOR OVERHEAT" light. It's not difficult to trigger. Could be the same one.
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The Check Engine light seems to have been implemented from the 2018 MY.
The owner's manual shows it sitting between the temperature warning and armed. I know there is a space on my 2017 SR at that point, but nothing comes on during the dash check, so there's probably no led, or no wiring for it. The manual describes it as follows:
Indicates the motorcycle has detected an error, causing it to
enter into a state of permanent torque reduction. This light
will be accompanied by a dash error code.
See “Dash Error Codes”, on page 7.5 for more information.
Contact your dealer and arrange to have the motorcycle
serviced.
Ulster Zero
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They definitely have a "MOTOR OVERHEAT" light. It's not difficult to trigger. Could be the same one.
Do my 2017 Zeros have such a light? If they do, I never noticed it.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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Yeah, they all use the same dash from 2014 up until the new LED ones in 2021 and they all have the little motor temp light. It's super easy to get it to show up on a 2014 SR because that predates the IPM motors. I can make it overheat in under a minute.
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The Check Engine light seems to have been implemented from the 2018 MY.
The owner's manual shows it sitting between the temperature warning and armed. I know there is a space on my 2017 SR at that point, but nothing comes on during the dash check, so there's probably no led, or no wiring for it. The manual describes it as follows:
Indicates the motorcycle has detected an error, causing it to
enter into a state of permanent torque reduction. This light
will be accompanied by a dash error code.
See “Dash Error Codes”, on page 7.5 for more information.
Contact your dealer and arrange to have the motorcycle
serviced.
Ulster Zero
OIC. My Zeros are both a year too old to have that.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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Yes, between the temperature light and the armed light is exactly what I meant when I said check engine light. It is a yellow light shaped like an engine, just like the one on my car.
I have an unhappy update to this: the onboard charger worked once, maybe twice after I brought it home from the dealer and now it's kaput AGAIN! The Charge Tank still works, at least, but after my experience last month I'm not willing to rely on only one charging method. I still don't know what happened to break both chargers last month so I'm scared whatever it is, it will happen again. I never had any issues for the first year and 8500 miles and now all this!
I'm going back to the dealer and will let you all know when I hear anything... :'( :'( :'(
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Yes, between the temperature light and the armed light is exactly what I meant when I said check engine light. It is a yellow light shaped like an engine, just like the one on my car.
I have an unhappy update to this: the onboard charger worked once, maybe twice after I brought it home from the dealer and now it's kaput AGAIN! The Charge Tank still works, at least, but after my experience last month I'm not willing to rely on only one charging method. I still don't know what happened to break both chargers last month so I'm scared whatever it is, it will happen again. I never had any issues for the first year and 8500 miles and now all this!
I'm going back to the dealer and will let you all know when I hear anything... :'( :'( :'(
What have you been charging the bike with? What voltage and source?
-Don- Medford, OR
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For the onboard charger I use the 120V wall outlet in my garage and the 3 prong power cord that came with the bike.
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For the onboard charger I use the 120V wall outlet in my garage and the 3 prong power cord that came with the bike.
The OBC will most likely last longer at 240 VAC. They are more efficient at 240 VAC which means less heat. However, the OBC can crap out very randomly even if new. It's one of the issues with switching power supplies which is what the OBC is. Many parts that can fail at any random time. Some OBCs can last longer than 25 years and another may last ten minutes. Mostly depends on luck, but various other things can also cause problems.
And often when one part shorts such as a diode or whatever, it overloads countless other parts which do the same.
-Don- Phoenix, OR
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For the onboard charger I use the 120V wall outlet in my garage and the 3 prong power cord that came with the bike.
The OBC will most likely last longer at 240 VAC. They are more efficient at 240 VAC which means less heat. However, the OBC can crap out very randomly even if new. It's one of the issues with switching power supplies which is what the OBC is. Many parts that can fail at any random time. Some OBCs can last longer than 25 years and another may last ten minutes. Mostly depends on luck, but various other things can also cause problems.
And often when one part shorts such as a diode or whatever, it overloads countless other parts which do the same.
-Don- Phoenix, OR
I can believe that. Here is what an OBC can look like when a component fails while charging. :o
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I can believe that. Here is what an OBC can look like when a component fails while charging. :o
That looks very typical for a switching power supply failure.
BTW, this is one of the rare times I must charge with 120 VAC. And I used the OBC and charged to full.
I am at an RV Park near Cresent City, CA. Here, they only have 120 VAC.
I am in the Redwoods, here. (https://ramblinredwoodsrv.com/) I have my 2017 Zero DS with me, of course.
-Don- Crescent City, CA