ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: Kill3rT0fu on September 04, 2021, 03:50:35 AM
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I'm preparing to do a diginow pan install. I've been doing a few months of research, so I know a few tricks like removing the andersen connectors from the cables to thread it up through the bike. But I was looking for some advice. Is there any secret to getting the stock charger out? Any secret or hidden clips holding the cables in place? Are there any specific ways to thread and mount the diginow cables?
And are there any requests while I tackle this? Any pictures anybody needs? Anything I can look at for you while I'm in there?
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Unofficial Service Manual#Belly_Pan (https://zeromanual.com/wiki/SDS_Platform/Unofficial_Service_Manual#Belly_Pan) has embedded a video "How to Remove the Zero's Onboard Charger" that covers everything very neatly.
*edit* not trying to embed the video here ::)
The stock On-Board Charger is easy to drop; it helps to have a scissor lift or some kind of platform to place underneath the stock pan/OBC you can rest everything on as you get all the fasteners loose and move on to dealing with the connectors and wiring. This was omitted from the video obviously to make a better and easier-to-follow video :-) The bike will operate fine without the OBC connected, so that's a good first step.
I have some connector shell/pin parts if you want to try putting together a mating connector for the bike's wiring harness that you're disconnecting from the OBC. That would benefit greatly from some trial-and-error and creating documentation. No bike here so I'm not going to get around to trying that anytime soon. Either way be sure to cover open-ended connectors and prevent ingress of liquid and solid contaminants; I used some masking tape for the low-voltage signal connectors, as I only had on-hand the low-quality cheap kind of PVC Vinyl electricians tape that tends to leave residue everywhere.
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I found the left side of the battery had more room to run AC and DC cables provided you absolutely secure them from getting ground up by the belt. The right side, being more .... busy, was where I ran my comms lines if I was placing the comms box behind the controller. If you have trouble getting the Andersons through, just de-pin them first. Run the individual cables through, then re-pin them. Be patient, and have lots of zip ties handy. You can always reach out to me directly and I'll guide you as best as I can.
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I found the left side of the battery had more room to run AC and DC cables provided you absolutely secure them from getting ground up by the belt. The right side, being more .... busy, was where I ran my comms lines if I was placing the comms box behind the controller. If you have trouble getting the Andersons through, just de-pin them first. Run the individual cables through, then re-pin them. Be patient, and have lots of zip ties handy. You can always reach out to me directly and I'll guide you as best as I can.
How did you secure the cables routing up the left side? I know they make those zip tie anchors that sticky to things. Did you use these?
Sounds like I need to start a shopping list. 1) Various sized zip ties. 2)...
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Usually I just zip tied to the frame itself. The part that connects to the left foot peg.
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I know ZIP ties are common but I would use cushioned cable clamps if at all possible since ZIP ties have been seen to cut their way through electrical insulation where there is vibration or movement, granted it does take time, but it does happen.
I once saw a zip tie cut through a hydraulic line on a Douglas DC-10 leading to a partial hydraulic failure.
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I know ZIP ties are common but I would use cushioned cable clamps if at all possible since ZIP ties have been seen to cut their way through electrical insulation where there is vibration or movement, granted it does take time, but it does happen.
I once saw a zip tie cut through a hydraulic line on a Douglas DC-10 leading to a partial hydraulic failure.
The diginow cables are pretty heavily insulated, and I also have a cable loom to wrap around, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to also add some foam where I'll be zipping it. I looked at the cable clamps and it's not as easily mountable as would be zip ties+zip tie anchor.
Also, my original plan to mount 1 j1772 charge port on both L/R sides by the passenger footpegs looks not feasible since the brake fluid reservoir and shock reservoir is there. So looks like only left side is possible. Where are other popular places to mount the port?
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Front-right next to the triple-tree is where I'm planning to put the charge port.
-Crissa
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Front-right next to the triple-tree is where I'm planning to put the charge port.
-Crissa
In the tank or externally? Is there enough room for the charge port cabled to run from the tank to the chargers? I still haven't measured everything.
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In the tank or externally? Is there enough room for the charge port cabled to run from the tank to the chargers? I still haven't measured everything.
I've seen a picture of it inside the V of the tank. The steering leaves a bit of clearance. There's more than enough room from the cabling through the tank to the middle channel down to the OBC.
-Crissa
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In the tank or externally? Is there enough room for the charge port cabled to run from the tank to the chargers? I still haven't measured everything.
I've seen a picture of it inside the V of the tank. The steering leaves a bit of clearance. There's more than enough room from the cabling through the tank to the middle channel down to the OBC.
-Crissa
Do you have any of these pictures? I can't seem to find any, and when I went to size up that area last night it didn't seem feasible.
RIght now I was contemplating either 2 ports on top of the storage tank, or one on the left passenger footpeg and then one on top of the storage tank. It's a tough choice because there's not much room on the bike, and I'd like it to be as clean as possible.
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It was on one of Brandon's old videos. Only space for one port, but as a primary port it seems a good spot.
https://youtu.be/tBOgjPwUkEU?t=28s
-Crissa
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Alright, 1 spool of PETG later I have 2 usable J177s charge port brackets: One for the left side footpeg, and the second for the right side footpeg.
Leftside STL file is attached. I'm still polishing the right side model. I had a version modeled with a built-in loop for a cable zip tie, but that one got corrupted so I had to go back a few versions.
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Okay so I've started my preliminary install of the diginow pan. I have all the brackets ready (STL files will be uploaded here but there's still tweaks I need to make. The left side port plug makes use of ScootCoupe's switch plug model). But I'm having an issue.
My level 1 nema 5-15 charger keeps faulting (probably drawing too much current). I've been testing with 1 of the 2 daisy chained diginow chargers. It seem to power on and start charging fine before the level 1 charger is tripped.
So what are my options here? Do I need to use the third independent diginow that gets wired directly to the battery? And not the pair?
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If the units detect 120vac input they drop down to like 1.3kW. However if you've got 2 chained together they're both gonna try that which will overload the circuit. Just disengage one either via input or comms.
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If the units detect 120vac input they drop down to like 1.3kW. However if you've got 2 chained together they're both gonna try that which will overload the circuit. Just disengage one either via input or comms.
I tried that. Disconnected the andersen connector so only one was connected. Still tripped the charger. But I got an email back from support from the charger and they're having me send back the unit, so it sounds like it's faulty. Sooo.....that's halting things for now. It's just rough troubleshooting since the problem could be the house wiring (which it's not, I've checked. ANd it's freshly re-wired with 20amp fuses). Or it could be the charger. Which has no documentation. Or it could be the diginows. Trying to cover all the bases with troubleshooting.
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Can the charger even step down to 8a at 110v?
-Crissa
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Can the charger even step down to 8a at 110v?
-Crissa
It's supposed to be able to. I believe the options were 6a, 8am, 10a, 12a, and 16a