ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: Squelch on August 01, 2021, 05:57:56 AM
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Greetings,
I am trying to hardwire a Zumo XT on my 2022 Ribelle. Based on some searches here I bought the Ulitmate Addon splitter so I could tap into the power going to the USB port. I connected a 2-port plug to the wires on the Zumo and connected it to the 2-port plug on the UA splitter. It didn't work. I connected it directly to the 2-port that the USB was plugged into, and it still didn't work. I tested that the Zumo wiring was still good by connecting it to the battery on my truck and it got power just fine. So the problem is either A) the power going into the USB port is not 12V, or B) I have the wrong connector. It looks like the right connector, and marries up just fine with the port, (either through the splitter or straight into the stock connection that the USB plugs into).
The 2-port connector is from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/LanHong-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Marine/dp/B01F54PFLE
I've attached a picture of the connector I'm trying to use (under the bike's dashboard) and the wiring for the Zumo.
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Just note the circuit is only active when the bike is on or is charging.
With just the bikes USB port plugged in is there a blue ring that lights up when the bike is turned on? It's possible you shorted something out or wired something backwards, this could cause the fuse to blow. Remove the right tank cover look for black rubber box (1"x3"), lift the lid and check fuse #6 (10A).
I would double check the polarity of the circuit with a multimeter. I found the connectors purchased on Amazon to have their connectors wired opposite the way the bikes connectors are pinned out.If they are backward and you want to repin them this video will help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=780uym5q4rA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=780uym5q4rA)
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Greetings,
I am trying to hardwire a Zumo XT on my 2022 Ribelle. Based on some searches here I bought the Ulitmate Addon splitter so I could tap into the power going to the USB port. I connected a 2-port plug to the wires on the Zumo and connected it to the 2-port plug on the UA splitter. It didn't work. I connected it directly to the 2-port that the USB was plugged into, and it still didn't work. I tested that the Zumo wiring was still good by connecting it to the battery on my truck and it got power just fine. So the problem is either A) the power going into the USB port is not 12V, or B) I have the wrong connector. It looks like the right connector, and marries up just fine with the port, (either through the splitter or straight into the stock connection that the USB plugs into).
The 2-port connector is from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/LanHong-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Marine/dp/B01F54PFLE (https://www.amazon.com/LanHong-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Marine/dp/B01F54PFLE)
I've attached a picture of the connector I'm trying to use (under the bike's dashboard) and the wiring for the Zumo.
I use the GPS mobile cable on my SS9, I get the 13V from under the 5VDC USB. It is a little tricky to run a Garmin from 5 volts, without it going into the computer communications mode. Is that the issue you're having?
See the info. here for how Garmin (https://pinoutguide.com/GPS/garmin_nuvi_power_pinout.shtml) does things. Garmin expects you to use the 12 volt cable to run the GPS. They assume when you're using a USB cable, you're trying to communicate with a computer. They often have resistors in their cables and other cables may not be compatible, depending on what you want to do. And the resistor values can change between models.
IMO, the best way to do this is to get to the 13V supply in your bike. Your 5VDC USB is most likely fed with 13V as mine is.
Then use the stock 12V Garmin automotive cable.
I added one of these to my SS9. (https://www.amazon.com/TurnRaise-Waterproof-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Cigarette/dp/B078K8WBCJ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=OW1GGAIDVL04&dchild=1&keywords=motorcycle+12+volt+outlet&qid=1627779680&sprefix=MOTORCYCLE+12+VOLT+OUT%2Caps%2C259&sr=8-4)
FWIW, IMO, Energica should ONLY have a 12 volt outlet. For one dollar, you can change 12 to USB with a plug in thingy. Then you can have both, 13V and USB and as many as you want, with adapters. And will not have to modify the bike at all, no matter which you need.
Only having USB means MORE work for the buyers who need 12V. I find 12V MUCH more useful than 5VDC.
-Don- Cold Springs Valley, NV
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OP - the Zumo-XT powers up fine from Ribelle's USB port, the problem lies in capacity to sustain backlight intensity for day use - for that you will want to tap into the fuse that serves USB / Heated Grips using Garmin DC adapter thingy that came w/ the XT.
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Just note the circuit is only active when the bike is on or is charging.
With just the bikes USB port plugged in is there a blue ring that lights up when the bike is turned on? It's possible you shorted something out or wired something backwards, this could cause the fuse to blow. Remove the right tank cover look for black rubber box (1"x3"), lift the lid and check fuse #6 (10A).
I would double check the polarity of the circuit with a multimeter. I found the connectors purchased on Amazon to have their connectors wired opposite the way the bikes connectors are pinned out.
1) The USB port still lights up so I know there's not a short before the 2-pin connector on the bike and I've got the bike on when I'm trying to get the Zumo to work. I'll check the polarity - i haven't tried that yet, but it's simply a matter of switching wires since I haven't soldered/shrinkwrapped them yet, until I know for sure that it'll work.
Garmin expects you to use the 12 volt cable to run the GPS. They assume when you're using a USB cable, you're trying to communicate with a computer. They often have resistors in their cables and other cables may not be compatible, depending on what you want to do. And the resistor values can change between models.
IMO, the best way to do this is to get to the 13V supply in your bike. Your 5VDC USB is most likely fed with 13V as mine is.
Then use the stock 12V Garmin automotive cable.
2) I think I'm tapping into the 13VDC before it gets to the USB. It's the 2-pin connector that the USB plugs into that I'm using. I'm using the cable that came with the Zumo that I had installed on my previous bike and it worked without issues. It's not a USB cable, it's the hardwire cable that's made to fit into the motorcycle mount.
OP - the Zumo-XT powers up fine from Ribelle's USB port, the problem lies in capacity to sustain backlight intensity for day use - for that you will want to tap into the fuse that serves USB / Heated Grips using Garmin DC adapter thingy that came w/ the XT.
Yes, that's the issue - I can use the USB, but it gets dark after a little while of riding (maybe it's related to the amount of charge left on the bike?) and it's a PITA to have to unplug the USB every time I stop somewhere instead of just grabbing it off the mount which I can do when it's hardwired. I can try tapping into the fuse - I remember seeing a thread somewhere that had an adapter or something to hook directly into the fuse box.
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I think I'm tapping into the 13VDC before it gets to the USB.
Can confirm. The black tubular unit that is attached to your dash is what converts the bikes 12VDC to 5VDC for USB power. All the wiring before that is providing 12VDC.
Please remember that the bike provides 12VDC not the 13-14.5VDC that a ICE bike outputs.
I can try tapping into the fuse - I remember seeing a thread somewhere that had an adapter or something to hook directly into the fuse box.
Tapping the fuse vs tapping the 2 pin connector accomplish the same thing. I have not found a "mini fuse tap" that I like so I do not utilize this option. I find it much easier to build a Y splitter using the 2 pin connectors.
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Please remember that the bike provides 12VDC not the 13-14.5VDC that a ICE bike outputs.
My SS9 is 12.5 VDC. I just checked. I thought it was higher, but I was confused with my Zeros that use 13.8 VDC from the DC2DCC which is about the same as an ICE bike.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Can confirm. The black tubular unit that is attached to your dash is what converts the bikes 12VDC to 5VDC for USB power. All the wiring before that is providing 12VDC.
Please remember that the bike provides 12VDC not the 13-14.5VDC that a ICE bike outputs.
Hmm, so I wonder what's wrong with my Garmin cable. Like I said, when I take the two bare wires and connect them to the battery in my truck it gets power. When I twist them to the 2-pin it gets nothing. I haven't tried twisting them "backwards" (red to black) to see if the 2-pin is wired wrong. I thought I've isolated everything but I guess the next step will be to try connecting the wires directly to the two prongs that go into the USB converter to see if that gets me power. If the two wires to the two prongs works, then it's something with the 2-pin. Curious...
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Hmm, so I wonder what's wrong with my Garmin cable. Like I said, when I take the two bare wires and connect them to the battery in my truck it gets power. When I twist them to the 2-pin it gets nothing. I haven't tried twisting them "backwards" (red to black) to see if the 2-pin is wired wrong. I thought I've isolated everything but I guess the next step will be to try connecting the wires directly to the two prongs that go into the USB converter to see if that gets me power. If the two wires to the two prongs works, then it's something with the 2-pin. Curious...
That needs some clarification.
The "two bare wires"? From the Garmin cable or another cable? If you mean the Garmin cable with both, and it works with the truck only, get yourself a cheap VOM and see what the voltage is under the load of the Garmin in both cases, the truck and the bike, measured right on the GPS wires.
-Don-
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That needs some clarification.
The "two bare wires"? From the Garmin cable or another cable? If you mean the Garmin cable with both, and it works with the truck only, get yourself a cheap VOM and see what the voltage is under the load of the Garmin in both cases, the truck and the bike, measured right on the GPS wires.
-Don-
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Bare wires from the Garmin cable - the wires that I had connected to the battery on my old motorcycle. I touched them to the battery terminals on my truck and it got power, but when I twist them together with the red/black wires from a 2-pin and connect it to the 2-pin on the bike, it gets nothing.
I just ordered a cheap VOM from Amazon and it'll arrive before the weekend so I can troubleshoot some more. It's annoying to not have a GPS, but I know my way around most of the good roads around here so the only thing I'm missing out on is the random side roads that I usually like to travel when I'm out exploring. I still have a little bit of range anxiety and I don't like to be too far away from known distances to home/DCFC.
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Bare wires from the Garmin cable - the wires that I had connected to the battery on my old motorcycle. I touched them to the battery terminals on my truck and it got power, but when I twist them together with the red/black wires from a 2-pin and connect it to the 2-pin on the bike, it gets nothing.
I just ordered a cheap VOM from Amazon and it'll arrive before the weekend so I can troubleshoot some more. It's annoying to not have a GPS, but I know my way around most of the good roads around here so the only thing I'm missing out on is the random side roads that I usually like to travel when I'm out exploring. I still have a little bit of range anxiety and I don't like to be too far away from known distances to home/DCFC.
So you're not using the lighter adapter? I wonder if there is someting inside of it, but that won't explain why it works on one vehicle and not another.
All my bikes have a GPS. All are Garmin (except my Harley that has its own). I have a special directory in all my Garmins for charge stations. A separate one for DC fast and AC slow charge stations on my Energica. My longer rides are between the charge stations in my Garmin GPS.
-Don- Reno, NV
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So you're not using the lighter adapter? I wonder if there is someting inside of it, but that won't explain why it works on one vehicle and not another.
All my bikes have a GPS. All are Garmin (except my Harley that has its own). I have a special directory in all my Garmins for charge stations. A separate one for DC fast and AC slow charge stations on my Energica. My longer rides are between the charge stations in my Garmin GPS.
-Don- Reno, NV
I don't think the XT came with a lighter adapter. It has a mount with a connector that can be hardwired into the motorcycle. The picture I posted isn't the greatest, but you can see a black wire going from the mount to a small black box which converts it from 12V to something less. I'm at work so I don't know the exact specification but I know it says something like "12V DC in / 5V DC out" or something similar. The red and black wires going from that box were connected directly to the negative battery terminal and a power distribution box on my old bike (I had lots of lights and stuff on that bike).
Did you build the charge station map yourself or was it something you found? That would be really useful (once I actually get the GPS hardwired).
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I don't think the XT came with a lighter adapter. It has a mount with a connector that can be hardwired into the motorcycle. The picture I posted isn't the greatest, but you can see a black wire going from the mount to a small black box which converts it from 12V to something less. I'm at work so I don't know the exact specification but I know it says something like "12V DC in / 5V DC out" or something similar. The red and black wires going from that box were connected directly to the negative battery terminal and a power distribution box on my old bike (I had lots of lights and stuff on that bike).
Did you build the charge station map yourself or was it something you found? That would be really useful (once I actually get the GPS hardwired).
Oh, I think know what you mean, I have that on some of my bikes as well. The GPS snaps into it with the connector on the bracket.
I used Plusgshare and added in all the charge stations I am likely to use in any direction. Often, the address doesn't match the exact location. So after I find the charge station, I redo it to the exact location. I have them all listed on both, addresses as well as "DC FAST Charge" a directory I made myself. It's a good idea to also keep them under "addresses" at least as first, to help find the place until it's exact location is entered. I also have a separate directory for "J-1772 charge".
-Don- Reno, NV
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I realize I am bringing up my own zombie post, but I wanted to update anyone who cares on what the problem was. This morning I finally had some time to get out to the garage to try again. Armed with a cheap multimeter and some time, I unhooked everything and started from scratch. I hooked the Garmin power cable to my truck and took a picture showing that it was getting 5V at the GPS. I hooked the 2-pin splitter to the motorcycle and hooked the 2-pin connected I got from Amazon and it showed 12V. I hooked the Garmin cable bare wires to the cheap Amazon connector, red-red/black-black, and got nothing. I took pictures of it all, getting ready to post a new topic on here in the general technical section. I came back into the house and my wife asked me what I was working on. Like the good teacher I am, I explained the whole problem to her, and showed her the photos I was going to post. Halfway through, when I showed her the photo of the 12V coming from the bike, she asked why it said -12V.
DUH. ::)
So anyway, those cheap connectors I got from Amazon were almost all wired wrong. I wired it up black-red/red-black and hey, it worked! It was probably one of the simplest things ever to have checked, but I didn't have a multimeter to check until recently. I know Demoni mentioned that as a potential issue but I must have thought I'd checked it at one point and hadn't. Thankfully my wife was detached from the frustration I'd been having so she was able to see what should have been obvious to me...
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I showed her the photo of the 12V coming from the bike, she asked why it said -12V.
DUH. ::)
Just add that to the countless reasosn why digital voltmeters are so lousy for MOST (but not all) troubleshooting. A cheap ten dollar VOM will usually be more useful for troubleshooting. When that analog meter goes backwards, it will be much more noticeable than that "-" sign. When an analog meter is jumpy, it means something unlike on a digital meter where it means nothing at all.
Some expensive VOMs (Flukes, etc) also have an analog scale, but is not true analog. I will still prefer a ten dollar VOM for most troubleshooting.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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First mode performed on my SS9 was to swap the usb for a cigar lighter.
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First mode performed on my SS9 was to swap the usb for a cigar lighter.
Same here. 2nd was the horn, which is almost as weak as Zero's.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Same here. 2nd was the horn, which is almost as weak as Zero's.
-Don- Reno, NV
What kind of horn did you swap to and was it hard? I have a spare horn that I never put on my old bike and could put it on the Ribelle.
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What kind of horn did you swap to and was it hard? I have a spare horn that I never put on my old bike and could put it on the Ribelle.
You will have to wire in a relay for a loud horn, such as the ones I am using. I think mine are these. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/313631692160?hash=item4905e7d580:g:zQYAAOSwWslhEFln) I mounted mine on the each side of the headlight, as I could not find any reasonable place for the two horns.
-Don- Auburn, CA
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Looks a lot like this one. Hard to beat that price. 6A okay to install as direct without an extra relay?
https://smile.amazon.com/FARBIN-Electric-Snail-Universal-Vehicles/dp/B08PKFXDN7/
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Looks a lot like this one. Hard to beat that price. 6A okay to install as direct without an extra relay?
https://smile.amazon.com/FARBIN-Electric-Snail-Universal-Vehicles/dp/B08PKFXDN7/ (https://smile.amazon.com/FARBIN-Electric-Snail-Universal-Vehicles/dp/B08PKFXDN7/)
I don't know the current rating of the Zero horn switch and that is the only way we will know for sure. I always use a relay if I don't know for sure.
It will work without the relay, for how may uses is the question. Since horns are rarely used, it could last quite awhile (many years) even when well over the spec of the horn switch.
But with the relay, use any horn you can find and not be concerned with the current rating. Horns that draw more current should be louder.
-Don- Reno, NV
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6A okay to install as direct without an extra relay?
You will need to use a relay. The horn switch and wiring gauge used are not designed to handle 6A.
In addition a draw higher than stock will cause an overcurrent fault, disabling the circuit.
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You will need to use a relay. The horn switch and wiring gauge used are not designed to handle 6A.
In addition a draw higher than stock will cause an overcurrent fault, disabling the circuit.
I had no idea. Looks like I was incorrect about it would still work for at least a few uses. I always use a relay anyway.
-Don- ABQ, NM (RV trip)