ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: ZeroChrissy on May 27, 2021, 02:04:48 AM
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Hello,
I'm a new owner of a SR2017.
I have seen during belt adjustment, that the belt runs at different positions on the rear sprocket, if I'm moving the wheel forward/backwards. (At the end it's hard to hit the correct belt position.)
So, my question is, can I correct that with a different motor alignment (motor<->frame) ?
For me, it seems the motor has to go a little bit down on the righ side, that the two belt sprockets are exactly aligned in parallel.
Can I do that with the 2 lower motor-frame screws at the right side?
May, any note or recommendations to that?
(I cannot find any procedure to align the motor...)
Very Best Thanks for any help.
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Only the dealer can align the motor properly.
It's via proprietary software and hardware.
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I am talking only about mechanical alignment. (Not about adjusting the Encoder.)
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Here’s my notes for my 2016 (thin belt)........
2016 DSR (thin belt) 20/30kg tension (using Krikit belt tension gauge).
Jacking left screw(bolt) out (adding tension) moves the belt to the right on the rear sheave/sprocket.
NOTE: Position belt with a right side bias as it will shift to the left when the axle bolt is tightened.
This movement to the left is approx 1/16”-1/8” on my bike (yours might vary).
After making an adjustment to a jack screw, must pry right side of wheel forward (or smack it to the right from the back side) to “set” the adjustment as the belt tension on the sheave will pivot the axle ClockWise...........
(In my opinion, the right jack screw SHOULD be located 180° & push the axle CCW thus countering the Left jack screw CW effect on the Sheave/Belt/Axle. )
NOTE: 1/6 turn of Left jack screw causes a 10KG difference to belt tension.
Best to get the belt/sheave alignment sorted first, then go for proper tension.
I shoot for the greatest tension (30kg).
If you don’t have the correct Metric socket (like me), use a 1-1/16” to tension the axle nut to 102NM (75#’).
Recommend first removing the jack bolts & grinding or filing off the markings so it’s smooth & will not gouge the soft aluminum swing arm.
Put a dab of Anti-seize or heavy grease on the jack bolt threads while your at it.
A few other thoughts.....
Excessive belt tension is not good on bearings & the thicker belt has a higher tension spec then the thin one.
I’m not sure where the best tension point would be on the thick belt, but I would stay towards the lower end yielding about the same as the max thin belt (30kg) unless the bearings were upgraded & can withstand greater belt tension.
I use a mechanical tension checking device (Gates 91107 Belt Tension Tester) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MUTAGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_23M6C0PXQW8W3RV5GE9W and check several locations of the rear sheave/sprocket in case it’s slightly out of round (different run outs will yield different belt tension readings).
A hexagon fastener has 6 sides so one flat (1/6 full turn) of the LEFT bolt will yield a 10kg change in belt tension.
Must make sure there is a gap (credit card or greater) between the belt & the left hand lip on the sheave/sprocket).
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Here’s my notes for my 2016 (thin belt)........
2016 DSR (thin belt) 20/30kg tension (using Krikit belt tension gauge).
Jacking left screw(bolt) out (adding tension) moves the belt to the right on the rear sheave/sprocket.
NOTE: Position belt with a right side bias as it will shift to the left when the axle bolt is tightened.
This movement to the left is approx 1/16”-1/8” on my bike (yours might vary).
After making an adjustment to a jack screw, must pry right side of wheel forward (or smack it to the right from the back side) to “set” the adjustment as the belt tension on the sheave will pivot the axle ClockWise...........
(In my opinion, the right jack screw SHOULD be located 180° & push the axle CCW thus countering the Left jack screw CW effect on the Sheave/Belt/Axle. )
NOTE: 1/6 turn of Left jack screw causes a 10KG difference to belt tension.
Best to get the belt/sheave alignment sorted first, then go for proper tension.
I shoot for the greatest tension (30kg).
If you don’t have the correct Metric socket (like me), use a 1-1/16” to tension the axle nut to 102NM (75#’).
Recommend first removing the jack bolts & grinding or filing off the markings so it’s smooth & will not gouge the soft aluminum swing arm.
Put a dab of Anti-seize or heavy grease on the jack bolt threads while your at it.
A few other thoughts.....
Excessive belt tension is not good on bearings & the thicker belt has a higher tension spec then the thin one.
I’m not sure where the best tension point would be on the thick belt, but I would stay towards the lower end yielding about the same as the max thin belt (30kg) unless the bearings were upgraded & can withstand greater belt tension.
I use a mechanical tension checking device (Gates 91107 Belt Tension Tester) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MUTAGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_23M6C0PXQW8W3RV5GE9W and check several locations of the rear sheave/sprocket in case it’s slightly out of round (different run outs will yield different belt tension readings).
A hexagon fastener has 6 sides so one flat (1/6 full turn) of the LEFT bolt will yield a 10kg change in belt tension.
Must make sure there is a gap (credit card or greater) between the belt & the left hand lip on the sheave/sprocket).
That is the process that I used this weekend when changing my rear tire and adjusting the 17mm belt of my 2018 S. The axle nut uses a 27mm socket. It does take a little time to get everything adjusted properly. The first time I did the job the belt was too close to the flange after I went for a ride around the neighborhood. Also, I felt a strange vibration at all speeds that I hadn't felt before. Upon returning home I did some more adjustment using the left screw adjuster, finally getting the belt 1mm from the flange and the vibration went away. I set my tension at about 50Kg, however the Gates Krikit gauge is not the most accurate tensioning device and is a little hard to read, but the recommended tension for my bike is something like 25Kg to 75Kg, so there is a lot of slop to play with. I did my best to set the tension in the middle of that range.
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however the Gates Krikit gauge is not the most accurate tensioning device and is a little hard to read, but the recommended tension for my bike is something like 25Kg to 75Kg, so there is a lot of slop to play with. I did my best to set the tension in the middle of that range.
The ABN Belt Tension Gauge, ABN5414 (https://www.autobodynow.com/products/abn-belt-tension-gauge-universal-10-lbs-specification-easy-to-read)is much easier to use, but first we need to figure out how many lbs pressure we need for a Zero belt that is adjusted correctly.
I have not used mine yet, but I will probably check my belts soon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttyd5m3PC2I (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttyd5m3PC2I)
-Don- Reno, NV
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The belt alignment is very important. both motor and rear wheel axis shaft must be with in +/-0.25 degree of parallelism otherwise the belt tension will only transferred to one side of it and not the entire width of 17mm and it risk to snapping easy.
What i have found is that even though you adjust perfectly the two bolts that guide the main rear shaft and try to keep the 27mm big nut pre tightened while doing it, when you tighten it completely the alignment goes off a little bit.. so it's a kind of "trial and error" until the alignent is correct once the 27mm nut is tightened.
Doc
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Best Thanks for all the informations...
I have already figured out the instructions for adjusting the belt... with less success. See my first post. I think the 2 sprockets are not in parallel...
So, the focus should be here, how to align the motor in the frame (with the motor bolts?) to keep the sprockets in parallel?
Has somebody experience with that?
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Best Thanks for all the informations...
I have already figured out the instructions for adjusting the belt... with less success. See my first post. I think the 2 sprockets are not in parallel...
So, the focus should be here, how to align the motor in the frame (with the motor bolts?) to keep the sprockets in parallel?
Has somebody experience with that?
What usually works is keep the bolts loose and aligning the belt so it is flush on the right side of the rear sprocket, IOW, all the way away from the lip, but the entire belt still on the rear sprocket while the bolts are loose.
Next, tighten the bolts to spec and the belt should change by itself to around 1mm away from the lip as you spin the wheel a couple of times.
With a little luck, you will then be done with the job.
Do NOT try to align the belt perfectly when the bolts are loose. You will NEVER get it correct that way.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Yes, I know. It's working usually, but not at my Zero...
Think I have to align the motor in the frame first.
That should be here the topic...
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Yes, I know. It's working usually, but not at my Zero...
Think I have to align the motor in the frame first.
That should be here the topic...
I am a bit surprised the motor in the frame would be way out. Has your belt been way over-tightened or an accident or something like that?
-Don- Reno, NV
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No accident... But it is the case, that the belt is running at 2 different positions on the rear sprocket, dependend if I move the wheel forward/backward.
It looks also, somebody moved the motorscrews before I buy it. Can see that at the white screw markings.
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No accident... But it is the case, that the belt is running at 2 different positions on the rear sprocket, dependend if I move the wheel forward/backward.
It looks also, somebody moved the motorscrews before I buy it. Can see that at the white screw markings.
Are you sure it not just the wheel out of alignment?
-Don-
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How can get that out of alignment in vertical axis ? That would mean the swing arm or the frame would be damaged, but that doesn't seems so.
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How can get that out of alignment in vertical axis ? That would mean the swing arm or the frame would be damaged, but that doesn't seems so.
I just don't see how the motor can get out of alignment. Unless there is a mechanical issue in the motor itself.
-Don- Reno, NV
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May, See here, in Reply #3 !?
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=11068.msg103328;topicseen#msg103328
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Question: Is the belt centered on the front sprocket? This is done by adjusting the motor mounts. To move the belt left on the front sprocket: loosen the two right rear motor mount bolts, turn the big silver adjusters in slightly (1/4 turn), retighten the bolts. Check it and repeat if needed. After tightening the back twice, consider next extending the two right front adjusters (slighty). Visa versa to move the belt to the right on the front sprocket, BUT, don't extend the two right rear adjusters too far or the motor mount will conflict with the swingarm.
This truly makes the motorcycle run smoother and more quietly.
Hope this helps you ZeroChrissy
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These machines are simple, we humans are complicated.
Ride On, Red Clay
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HI Chrissy,
I know exactly how you feel. I am in the process of trying to reduce belt noise with my recently purchased 2017 S.
After my third attempt, I am realizing that I can get it to be near silent with the belt away from the outer (left) lip, but it seems only with the rear wheel slightly titled. Getting it to be ideal with the wheel shaft bolt tightened is another story. It seems the front/motor sprocket is the one that makes most noise when the rear sprocket is properly adjusted (belt centered). There is less noise with the belt all the way to the right side of the sprocket.
I am still working on it, but I also feel that the front motor/sprocket may be slightly misaligned. A motorcycle mechanic emphasized to me that it is important to get the wheel straight relative to the motorcycle, and that the markings/notches beside the set screws are usually not a good measure. He recommends measuring the distance from the swing arm to the rear wheel shaft as part of the process.
One final observation - when the belt is getting close to the sweet spot, it is certainly true that a minor turn in the adjusting screws makes a very significant difference. And this is made much more complicated by the shift towards the left rim that happens as soon as we tighten the wheel bolt to 75ft/lb.
Still working on it though...
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Very best Thanks for that helpful answers.
I have checked out now, if I have a good spot with the wheel... the belt variates to all directions... inner/outer lips at front and at rear sprocket !
I am still thinking about, why should the belt run centered in the front sprocket??? The belt has to know that? Somebody tells him during production :-)
(If the belt run centered at the front sprocket, it has ~1mm clearance to the lip each side, at my bike.)
Guess, depending where it's running at the front, it's also moving at the rear sprocket.
I double checked wheel and swingarm and motor bearing, seems all good.
Maybe I have to try out a new belt first.
It's also good to know, there is the possibillity to adjust over the motor bolts, to align the motor in the frame.