ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: herculeesjr on April 26, 2021, 02:00:14 AM
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I've attached the MBB and BMS bin files. I have a 2017 DS ZF13.0 with charge tank. The onboard charger went up in smoke on Friday 4-23 and I uninstalled it from the bike. Didn't cut any wires or go ripping things out, didn't see anything damaged, just completely removed it from the bike per the directions ( https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Calex_Charger_Replacement ). I still have the charge tank which is working and can charge the bike (I tested Friday night 4-23 with the on-board charger removed at a free public EVSE charger, went from 80% to 95% and the charge station shut off), so I ordered an EVSE charger cord to be able to charge at home through the charge tank which will be here Monday 4-26.
The problem is I can get on the bike, go for a ride, then stop and put the kickstand down and/or flip the kill switch then the charging light comes on for a second and goes out, and the time to charge "0:00" pops up on the dash. At this point you can turn the bike off and it still thinks it's charging showing "0:00" on the dash, you can put the kickstand up and try to ride but the throttle is disabled because it thinks it's charging and you don't get the green ready "arrow". So you can't ride. I tried both BMS software and hardware reset, you can hear the contactor open when it resets but then after a couple seconds you hear it close again and the charging "0:00" pops back up on the dash again. (On 4-25 I tried unplugging the two MBB connectors, waiting 30 seconds, and reinstalling. The bike almost instantly closes the contactor and goes back into charge mode.)
I've found that if I push the bike a few feet it still shows the charging "0:00" on the dash but I get the green ready arrow and can ride it fine then. Which saved my butt as I was able to get back home without calling for a tow. Stopping at lights or anything doesn't make the green ready light turn off, I have to be stopped and hit the kill switch or put the kickstand down, then the green ready light turns off, charging light briefly comes on, and I won't be able to run the bike again without lifting the kickstand and pushing the bike a couple feet.
I'm just feeling... like I imagine someone feels after losing it big at a casino. I spent about $8k for this bike, bought plenty of accessories and things for it, finally had it all ready to go out for some nice riding this weekend, it had no issues and is in great shape, and now I'm pretty sure it's going to need some serious repairs. All before I could really even go out and ride it. I didn't buy it from a dealership I bought it private party, so there's no returning it for a refund, and I'm not going to ask the guy for my money back even if that was an option. I'm just defeated. Truly defeated.
Can anyone look at these logs or provide some suggestions on what is wrong with my bike and what I can try to fix it? I don't want to have to sell this bike at a huge loss, I just wanted to get back into riding again and enjoy it. Right now the bike is just sitting here not turning off completely.
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I've got a 2017 FXS that is relatively new to me. Soon after I bought it, I was backing it out of my garage and I turned the bike on while moving backwards, kickstand up. When I was at the point where I could go forward the bike wouldn't react to the throttle. The green light wasn't lit. Nothing. Then I moved forward a foot or so under the power of my feet, I heard the relay click and the bike was ready to go.
I don't know if this is normal or I have some issue but it sounds kind of like your situation with the exception of the time to charge on the instruments. It is like the bike doesn't like to be moving when it is switched on.
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Just an update: I went out and removed the seat to see if a USB OBD adapter I had would work to try rebooting the MBB (it didn't connect, OBD adapter issues) and realized the two wiring connectors for the MBB were right there. So I decided to unplug them both and wait thirty seconds then plug it back in. It instantly went back into charging mode "0:00". So no luck there with a poor man's attempted MBB restart. I was hoping "restarting" the MBB would clear something out and reset it.
Without any other suggestions I'm now planning on getting a 120 ohm resistor to connect to the CAN low and high pins on the on-board charger connector to see if the CAN bus is having termination issues from the lack of charger. If that fails and I don't have any new suggestions I'll just have to throw out more money and have the dealer diagnose it. (Not going to try this now, seeing as there's no CAN errors in the logs.)
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Sounds like whatever it uses to know the charger status is fused closed.
I wonder if unplugging the charger would work?
-Crissa
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Sounds like whatever it uses to know the charger status is fused closed.
I wonder if unplugging the charger would work?
-Crissa
Like unplug the charge tank? I'm not seeing it show up in the logs, but I could still give it a try tomorrow. In the logs the charge tank shows up as
06068 04/23/2021 17:10:55 Throttle Disabled: Kill Sw,
06069 04/23/2021 17:10:56 DEBUG: Module scheme changed from Running mode to Stopped mode
06070 04/23/2021 17:10:56 DEBUG: Module mode Change Does Not Require Disconnect
06071 04/23/2021 17:11:15 Unknown Charger 6 Connectedwhen plugged in to charge. However when the bike "thinks" it's charging but not this shows in the logs:
06590 04/25/2021 10:34:07 Throttle Disabled: Kill Sw,
06591 04/25/2021 10:34:07 DEBUG: Module scheme changed from Running mode to Stopped mode
06592 04/25/2021 10:34:07 DEBUG: Module mode Change Does Not Require Disconnect
06593 04/25/2021 10:34:36 Disarmed PackTemp: h 19C, l 17C, PackSOC: 78%, Vpack:109.704V, MotAmps: 0, BattAmps: 0, Mods: 01, MotTemp: 45C, CtrlTemp: 28C, AmbTemp: 16C, MotRPM: 0, Odo:22040km
06594 04/25/2021 10:35:13 Calex 720W Charger 0 Connected
06595 04/25/2021 10:35:13 Calex 1200W Charger 1 Connected
06596 04/25/2021 10:35:13 DEBUG: Module scheme changed from Stopped mode to Charging mode
06597 04/25/2021 10:35:13 DEBUG: Module mode Change Does Not Require Disconnect
06598 04/25/2021 10:35:13 INFO: Enabling Calex 720W Charger 0
06599 04/25/2021 10:35:13 INFO: Enabling Calex 1200W Charger 1
06600 04/25/2021 10:35:23 Charging PackTemp: h 19C, l 17C, AmbTemp: 16C, PackSOC: 78%, Vpack: 109.62V, BattAmps: 0, Mods: 01, MbbChgEn: Yes, BmsChgEn: No
06601 04/25/2021 10:35:28 Key Off
So it seems to think the Calex charger is still installed on the bike and powered on. Which from what I understand means there's something wrong with the CAN bus I think. Since I've soft and hard reset the BMS and MBB. I'm almost tempted to look up how to disconnect the battery and just let the whole bike sit dead for a day.
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Sounds like whatever it uses to know the charger status is fused closed.
I wonder if unplugging the charger would work?
Like unplug the charge tank?
Maybe?
The charge tank and obc wake up the mbb with a connection. The mbb clearly thinks it's still getting that signal... usually when you remove the obc you have to 'key on' (I think it's Richard who has a bike stuck like this?) to get the mbb to see that it's plugged in and tell the contactors to close.
I think.
We're trying to eliminate possible points of failure, right? See which of these boxes or wires the fault is in.
-Crissa
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Sounds like whatever it uses to know the charger status is fused closed.
I wonder if unplugging the charger would work?
Like unplug the charge tank?
Maybe?
The charge tank and obc wake up the mbb with a connection. The mbb clearly thinks it's still getting that signal... usually when you remove the obc you have to 'key on' (I think it's Richard who has a bike stuck like this?) to get the mbb to see that it's plugged in and tell the contactors to close.
I think.
We're trying to eliminate possible points of failure, right? See which of these boxes or wires the fault is in.
-Crissa
My situation is that after reaching a full charge with the OBC, if I wait more than 10 minutes to pull the 120V plug, the steady charging light will stay on and I have to turn on the ignition key, wait for the click and then turn it off. That will result in the green charging light going out. But my irritation doesn't sound anything like herculeesjr's problem. He has a much worse problem for which I have no idea what to do next, except possibly to reconnect the OBC cords and see what happens then. Probably nothing if the OBC is toast, but it might be worth a try just to see if anything happens.
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Sounds like whatever it uses to know the charger status is fused closed.
I wonder if unplugging the charger would work?
Like unplug the charge tank?
Maybe?
The charge tank and obc wake up the mbb with a connection. The mbb clearly thinks it's still getting that signal... usually when you remove the obc you have to 'key on' (I think it's Richard who has a bike stuck like this?) to get the mbb to see that it's plugged in and tell the contactors to close.
I think.
We're trying to eliminate possible points of failure, right? See which of these boxes or wires the fault is in.
-Crissa
Sounds good. I'll be looking into it tomorrow. I can't find a wiring schematic for the Gen2 with Calex charger, but I did find one for a 2016 FX that may end up useful ( https://zeromanual.com/wiki/2016_X-Platform_Wiring_Diagram ) along with info on what wire does what and at what voltage for the Calex charger wiring ( https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Gen2/Calex_Charger/Connections ). So my first course of action, since it'll be easier to access, will be to see if these wires have voltage on them at the MBB connection and on-board charger connections and if I can find a way to disconnect them. If that fails there's zero info to be found on the charge tank wiring but I can remove the tank cover and just start disconnecting low voltage connectors to see what happens.
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My situation is that after reaching a full charge with the OBC, if I wait more than 10 minutes to pull the 120V plug, the steady charging light will stay on and I have to turn on the ignition key, wait for the click and then turn it off. That will result in the green charging light going out. But my irritation doesn't sound anything like herculeesjr's problem. He has a much worse problem for which I have no idea what to do next, except possibly to reconnect the OBC cords and see what happens then. Probably nothing if the OBC is toast, but it might be worth a try just to see if anything happens.
My bike did the same, before the on-board charger literally went up in smoke. The on-board charger would fully charge the bike and when you unplug it the charged light stays on. Which I read somewhere in the service manual is normal for 2016 and newer models.
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If you can find the 40 way MBB connector,(one of the two big connectors to the MBB) the charge enable signal is 5V, shared between the charge tank/onboard charger and is between pins 18 and 5. HIGH is charge enabled, so it seems likely that either the charge tank or onboard charger is generating it.
Or the MBB's detection across those pins is bad and you need a new MBB.
Far more often the chargers fail and don't provide that signal. I have yet to see a bike produce that signal all the time, since it requires voltage, but I guess you never know.
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Far more often the chargers fail and don't provide that signal. I have yet to see a bike produce that signal all the time, since it requires voltage, but I guess you never know.
If the contactor isn't opening there's gonna be voltage. The problem is the contactor won't open and let any capacitors drain.
edit- and I've seen this. A fair amount of times.
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edit- and I've seen this. A fair amount of times.
If you've seen this, then which component is upset? Is there a way to make it less upset?
-Crissa
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If you've seen this, then which component is upset? Is there a way to make it less upset?
-Crissa
Contactor could be melted closed.
-Don- Reno, NV
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If you've seen this, then which component is upset? Is there a way to make it less upset?
-Crissa
Contactor could be melted closed.
-Don- Reno, NV
Far more often the chargers fail and don't provide that signal. I have yet to see a bike produce that signal all the time, since it requires voltage, but I guess you never know.
If the contactor isn't opening there's gonna be voltage. The problem is the contactor won't open and let any capacitors drain.
edit- and I've seen this. A fair amount of times.
I hate to argue with you, but the charge enable pin is 5V and does not go through the contactor. Pack voltage is not involved. It comes from either the onboard or the charge tank. Zero's dealer service schematics confirm this. That's the only way the bike toggles into charge mode. We've also fixed bikes with welded contactors, and the bike will detect that. The BMS will fail self test if the contactor is welded, not keep the bike in charge mode and allow you to ride.And the logs will show that. It's one of the core safety features.
You can also see it in his logs here: MbbChgEn: Yes
If you want to check the contactor, measure the voltage on the two large pins on the quick charge port with the bike off and charge cord unplugged. If there's no pack voltage, its not welded.
To be honest, I suspect the MBB is damaged and needs to be replaced, but measuring the voltage as I previously mentioned would prove it. Or the pulldown on that one pin is defective/weak, and the pin is floating high. Removing the onboard charger after it broke may have removed the pulldown responsible for keeping it working. This is probably pretty rare, as I've never seen or heard of it failing in this way before, and I've fixed a lot of Zeros.
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Thank god people with giant brains are on the case. User Auriga has resolved the issues. Zero's dealer service schematics confirm this.
You're in good hands, people.
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Thanks for all the great info you guys. I really appreciate it. After work today I'm going to pull out the on-board charger communication plug and find the pins for on-board charger attached and on-board charger enable to see if either have 5v on them. I doubt I'll find 5v as I suspect the MBB is damaged, but hopefully I'll be lucky. Then whether or not I find 5v on them I'll next check those two wires at the MBB plug (possibly remove them from the connector without cutting if that is possible). Do you think it would be wise if I DON'T find 5v on those pins to try jumping them to CAN ground and see if that clears the issue? My thought is maybe if there's no 5v there, meaning I'm not at risk of shorting something out, then I could try connecting it to a known good 5v ground and see if that does something.
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I just noticed you have a 2017. Some of the 2017/early 2018 MBBs have a known issue where the pullup/pulldown is weak on that pin. With the charger present, usually people get the charge light staying on forever, but key cycling the bike fixes it. Without it the pin floats. 2017s with those MBBs are the only ones that shouldn't have the on board charger removed.
Replacing the onboard or replacing the MBB(Zero did fix it in a later part revision) with a new one should correct this.
Good luck!
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I just noticed you have a 2017. Some of the 2017/early 2018 MBBs have a known issue where the pullup/pulldown is weak on that pin. With the charger present, usually people get the charge light staying on forever, but key cycling the bike fixes it. Without it the pin floats. 2017s with those MBBs are the only ones that shouldn't have the on board charger removed.
Replacing the onboard or replacing the MBB(Zero did fix it in a later part revision) with a new one should correct this.
Good luck!
Well I'm happy to hear this is possibly simply a bit of software bugginess not liking the charger being removed than hardware being fried. So minus replacing the MBB, do you think installing a wire/diode from CAN-ground on the on-board charger connector to the charger enabled pin on the same connector would solve this issue?
My assumption is installing a wire would pull the pin back to low and fix the issue, but then the charge tank would have issues not being able to pull the pin high (or worse, damage the charge tank if I tried with said wire installed), so I'm thinking a diode between the two connectors would solve the issue by pulling the pin low, but allowing the charge tank to still pull it high and not short the CAN-ground to +5v. Sound like I'm on the right path? I'm going to try it with a wire when I get home today, but I won't use the charge tank with it installed.
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Well a wire would cause bad things if you try to charge with it present(as you mentioned). A diode would either not allow the pin to discharge its capacitance or be no better than the wire.
If I were going to try this, I would use a 100k or so resistor between the CAN Ground and the enable line. Zeros have a lot of grounds, but pin 18(EN) and 5(CAN GND) on the 40 way(MBB side) traced to the charger connector with a resistor should work.
Obviously be careful, as doing the wrong thing will damage either the mbb or charge tank.
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Well a wire would cause bad things if you try to charge with it present(as you mentioned). A diode would either not allow the pin to discharge its capacitance or be no better than the wire.
If I were going to try this, I would use a 100k or so resistor between the CAN Ground and the enable line. Zeros have a lot of grounds, but pin 18(EN) and 5(CAN GND) on the 40 way(MBB side) traced to the charger connector with a resistor should work.
Obviously be careful, as doing the wrong thing will damage either the mbb or charge tank.
I've made progress! A diode between pin 13 (orange wire with black trace, labeled OB_CHARGER_REF, a verified 5v ground) and pin 11 (gray with purple trace, labeled OB_CHARGER_ATTACHED) on the on-board charger connector shut the dash off and opened the battery contactor. I then tested by turning the key on, starts up like normal, put the kickstand up and disabled the kill switch, I get the green ready light without having to roll the bike, rode around the block, put the kickstand down and enabled the kill switch it leaves ready mode and no charging light or "0:00" pops up on the dash. Turning the key off I see "0:00" show up for about one second but then the contactor opens and everything shuts off. I can't remember if that's normal or not, but it works.
So this has fixed it thinking it's charging (knock on wood) but will possibly cause unknown issues with the charge tank as we've both been talking about. My EVSE cord isn't here yet but when it comes in later today I will remove the diode, connect the EVSE charger to charge, and monitor pin 11 to see if it goes high/has +5v. I want to test this since no schematic I've found shows charge tank wiring and thus I'm not sure the charge tank even uses this wire. Unless you have a secret schematic showing it does? Then I'll disconnect the EVSE, reinstall the diode (I don't have any resistors with me right now) and see if all is happy with the bike still.
Can you explain why you would recommend a resistor over a diode? I'm pretty proficient with electrical, but I'm no pro. I picked up diodes on my way home because I was thinking "I don't want +5v to hit a ground wire, that'd be a short, a diode blocks voltage from going one direction, so I must want that".
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Can you explain why you would recommend a resistor over a diode? I'm pretty proficient with electrical, but I'm no pro. I picked up diodes on my way home because I was thinking "I don't want +5v to hit a ground wire, that'd be a short, a diode blocks voltage from going one direction, so I must want that"
You don't have to worry about shorts after 100K ohm, current will be way too low to do any damage to anything after that much resistance. 5DVC to ground with 100K ohm is much like nothing being grounded.
-Don- Cold Springs Valley, NV
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The Charge Enable pin on the MBB is an input, meaning it has a high impedance and current won't flow into it, but we can still read the voltage. High Impedance pins will float, meaning they could be high or low randomly depending on whether charge builds up internally or noise couples in or what have you. Let's say you hook up a diode with the cathode towards the 5V signal pin. If the ENABLE is driven high, current won't flow through the diode and short. But if the pin floats high erroneously, it won't discharge the excess capacitance across the diode to GND(now your pin is falsely high). If you put the cathode on GND, then it functions a lot like a wire when the ENABLE is driven high, causing a short, but pulls down the ENABLE pin when it isn't.
Pullup or pulldown resistors of 10k ohms or more are required on input pins to make sure the input pin is always in a known state. For a pulldown, if the ENABLE is driven high, a small amount of current will flow through the resistor(5 milliamps, definitely not shorted), but the input pin will see 5V. If its not driven or driven low, there will be a direct connection for the pin to GND, ensuring the pin is LOW. Most logic signals can provide somewhere around 20mA or so, but to be safe using a 100k brings you to 0.05mA. You could chose the math for an intermediate valye, and I don't know how much current the microcntroller they're using can provide, but I'd say 1mA or below is a very safe bet.
TLDR: A diode will either not allow the pin to be pulled down or function close to a wire and not work properly when powered. A resistor will work in all conditions.
As for the schematic, I'm a dealer, so I have access to Zero's documentation. But I am not allowed to share it. That pin is common to both chargers.
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/pull-up-resistors/all <- This is for a pullup, but the principal is the same for pulldowns
http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Pull-up_resistors,_high_impedance_pins,_and_open_collector_buses
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Thanks guys for all the detailed info. It has refreshed my mind a bit on this subject and I'm understanding now why to use a resistor instead of a diode. I went back out to Radio Shack and got a 0.5w 100k ohm resistor and installed it in place of the diode. I ran the bike from ~80% all the way down to 6%. I swear once you hit 10% the Energizer bunny kicks in because it took forever to get the battery under 10% and I was tired of riding by 7% and went back home. Turned the key off, still no issues, went and unboxed my EVSE charger, turned the bike on, plugged charger in, turned bike off, EVSE shows charging at 12.1a (120v). It's rated for 16a at 120v but I'm assuming that 12a is the bikes max at 120v.
So it appears that this problem is solved. All that is left is coming up with some sort of enclosure for the bare on-board charger connector with a resistor hanging off of it.
Also can anyone explain why if the charge tank uses this same pin, why the bike has to be keyed on to start the charging? It seems like since it uses this pin it's capable of "waking" the bike, but obviously I'm missing something.
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You went to Radio Shack?
-Crissa
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You went to Radio Shack?
-Crissa
Yup, Tennessee has quite a few still. Not as many as they used to, but I have one five minutes from my house and like... four or five within half an hour ride.
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You went to Radio Shack?
-Crissa
The shack is back! (https://www.radioshack.com/)
I also went to a Radio Shack. Last year in Payson, AZ. But the new Radio Shacks are different. Each operates independently from the others and often stock much different stuff from the others.
-Don- Reno, NV
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Man, how nice!
-Crissa
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I had to pull the logs and waste time scrolling just to share this beautiful snip.
06896 04/26/2021 11:29:32 Calex 720W Charger 0 Disconnected
06897 04/26/2021 11:29:32 Calex 1200W Charger 1 Disconnected
06898 04/26/2021 11:29:32 DEBUG: Module scheme changed from Charging mode to Stopped mode
06899 04/26/2021 11:29:32 DEBUG: Module mode Change Does Not Require Disconnect
06900 04/26/2021 11:29:32 INFO: Disabling Calex 720W Charger 0
06901 04/26/2021 11:29:32 INFO: Disabling Calex 1200W Charger 1
06902 04/26/2021 11:29:32 Power Off Onboard Charger
06903 04/26/2021 11:29:32 Sevcon Turned Off
Again I really appreciate everyone's help in saving me here!
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Thanks guys for all the detailed info. It has refreshed my mind a bit on this subject and I'm understanding now why to use a resistor instead of a diode. I went back out to Radio Shack and got a 0.5w 100k ohm resistor and installed it in place of the diode. I ran the bike from ~80% all the way down to 6%. I swear once you hit 10% the Energizer bunny kicks in because it took forever to get the battery under 10% and I was tired of riding by 7% and went back home. Turned the key off, still no issues, went and unboxed my EVSE charger, turned the bike on, plugged charger in, turned bike off, EVSE shows charging at 12.1a (120v). It's rated for 16a at 120v but I'm assuming that 12a is the bikes max at 120v.
So it appears that this problem is solved. All that is left is coming up with some sort of enclosure for the bare on-board charger connector with a resistor hanging off of it.
Also can anyone explain why if the charge tank uses this same pin, why the bike has to be keyed on to start the charging? It seems like since it uses this pin it's capable of "waking" the bike, but obviously I'm missing something.
I think to wake the bike up the charger attach signal needs to be toggled, and Zero didn't make it available to the charge tank/accessory charge port on the older models. The MBB hibernates, and if it hibernates, it won't detect charge enable.The FST bikes with charge tank to not need the bike to be keyed on to start charging.
Glad everything worked out for you!
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Another question for you all. I plan on cutting out the connector from the fried charger, soldering the resistor onto it, then sealing it somehow. Maybe dipping it in resin or something similar to seal everything permanently. Might go crazy with the wife's hot glue gun.
My question is should I also install a resistor between pin 13 (OB_CHARGER_REF(erence)) and pin 12 (OB_CHARGER_EN(abled)). So basically one resistor between pin 13 and pin 11 (OB_CHARGER_ATTACHED), and one resistor between pin 13 and pin 12 (OB_CHARGER_ENABLED).
I'm not experiencing any issues with a resistor only between 13 and 11, but from looking at it it sounds like one should be on 13 and 12 too just to be safe?
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I would not recommend adding more resistors, unless something is not working. I think one of those might be an output, and that follows different rules.
Instead of cutting it off, I'd see if I could find the connector the charge used, crimp a resistor into it(with wire and heatshrink).
Cutting it off would be a giant pain if you ever try to sell it or want to add an onboard charger again(you never know, Zero might release an upgraded charger that plugs in there).
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I would not recommend adding more resistors, unless something is not working. I think one of those might be an output, and that follows different rules.
Instead of cutting it off, I'd see if I could find the connector the charge used, crimp a resistor into it(with wire and heatshrink).
Cutting it off would be a giant pain if you ever try to sell it or want to add an onboard charger again(you never know, Zero might release an upgraded charger that plugs in there).
No no, I mean I'm getting the Dremel out and cutting the portion of the on-board charger circuit board that has the wiring connector out. I'm not cutting into the bike's wiring harness. That way I have its waterproof connector and can seal the back of it up with something after I solder the resistor to the correct pins.
That way if I ever decide to replace the on-board charger I can just unplug my creation and plug a new charger in.
Since you don't recommend adding a resistor to pin 12 I will hold off for awhile to let the bike go through a few charge cycles to verify no issues randomly pop up. If nothing bad happens with only a resistor on pin 11 and no resistor on pin 12 I'll seal it all up and call it good.
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I would not recommend adding more resistors, unless something is not working. I think one of those might be an output, and that follows different rules.
Instead of cutting it off, I'd see if I could find the connector the charge used, crimp a resistor into it(with wire and heatshrink).
Cutting it off would be a giant pain if you ever try to sell it or want to add an onboard charger again(you never know, Zero might release an upgraded charger that plugs in there).
I'm seeing this pop up in the logs whenever the bike is turned on. Which is further leading me to think I'm needing that second resistor installed for the charger enabled pin. Thoughts? The bike runs fine otherwise, just this shows up every time the key is turned on.
07006 05/02/2021 14:30:10 INFO: Enabling External Chg 0 Charger 2
07007 05/02/2021 14:30:10 INFO: Enabling External Chg 1 Charger 3
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I would not recommend adding more resistors, unless something is not working. I think one of those might be an output, and that follows different rules.
Instead of cutting it off, I'd see if I could find the connector the charge used, crimp a resistor into it(with wire and heatshrink).
Cutting it off would be a giant pain if you ever try to sell it or want to add an onboard charger again(you never know, Zero might release an upgraded charger that plugs in there).
I'm seeing this pop up in the logs whenever the bike is turned on. Which is further leading me to think I'm needing that second resistor installed for the charger enabled pin. Thoughts? The bike runs fine otherwise, just this shows up every time the key is turned on.
07006 05/02/2021 14:30:10 INFO: Enabling External Chg 0 Charger 2
07007 05/02/2021 14:30:10 INFO: Enabling External Chg 1 Charger 3
It always says that. You're still good.
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A possibly final update, I used a Dremel and cut out the connector from the back of the onboard charger, trimmed the pins down, soldered a resistor to it, then weatherproofed it with a hot glue gun.
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Second picture with it sealed up, because annoying tiny file size limits.