ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: NervEasy on April 24, 2021, 04:29:20 PM
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Hi,
(2020 SR/S - 4200kms)
My front brake is pulsing when coming to a slow stop and when braking when speed is above 100km/u. At that speed the bike is shaking when braking.
I tried organic pads (no joy)
I tried freeing up the buttons as they where completely stuck. Now they spin free (still no joy)
I tried sanding the rotors slightly with scotch brite pads, this was dealer recommendation (no joy)
Anyone have some tips to fix the issue?
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Your discs are warped. There is no fix apart from new discs. Don't buy OEM, get EBC, Galfer, or Braking. They are far higher quality than OEM.
OEM discs shouldn't really warp like this, but because they're a disposable "service item" part, good luck arguing about warranty replacement. In any case they'll just replace them with more shitty OEM discs... so basically, just bite the bullet and put decent new ones on instead.
Cas :)
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I have had issues with a warping front disc (always when there is just one disc, it has never happened with a wheel with two disc brakes) on both my 2005 Triumph Bonneville and my 2009 BMW F650GS. On both bikes I had two original discs warp and I eventually replaced them with a name-brand aftermarket disc. After doing that I had no further problems. If you replace the disc, don't forget to install a new set of brake pad too. I like H-H friction pads, which provide the best stopping power.
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Ok, How do I know what kind of aftermarket rotors I need? The J Juan rotors do not come with an EBC part number :)
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Ok, How do I know what kind of aftermarket rotors I need? The J Juan rotors do not come with an EBC part number :)
That is a good question and one that I can't answer as my Zero's brakes are still working as intended. Perhaps check with EBC and Braking and see what they say. J Jaun is apparently major brake parts manufacturer in Spain so i would think that the aftermarket would be familiar with their products.
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I have a 2020 SR/S. Last year I was 100% convinced my rotors were warped bad. It would shake with even the smallest brake pressure. However before I tried to replace them, I took the rotors off to experiment with some carbon wheel covers that went underneath. To my surprise the vibration went away completely. Even after taking the carbon covers off, the pulsing is gone. So somehow the rotors weren't warped after all. Not sure what it was. But it is something with mounting or the floating rivets sticking or something else that was fixed by removing the rotors and reinstalling them (without paying attention to orientation or side). At least it was for me and it's been perfect for over 10,000 miles now. Glad I didn't replace the rotors themselves as it wasn't the issue.
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Some years ago I asked Rider magazine's shop guy about pulsing rotors and he replied that many times the pulsing was caused by the rotors picking up pad material, which was sticking to the rotors, and that could be causing uneven friction on the disc surface. He recommended removing the rotor and cleaning it thoroughly with brake cleaner and a plastic or nylon kitchen scrubbing pad (or maybe you could use steel wool?), then reinstalling it. If you decide to try that it might also be a good idea to sand the brake pad material to remove any surface glazing, by placing light sandpaper on a glass sheet and rubbing gently until the surface glaze is removed.
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Hi Electric Terry,
I am intrigued by your answer and would like to try to remove and reinstall my rotors.
The only question here is how do I support my bike to remove the front wheel. A small scissor lift will not work I guess as the bike may not be supported from the cooling fins on the bottom?
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That's a good question! There should be a point where the frame goes under the motor controller for the center stand. Zero tends to use a flat-style workbench stand so there should be a balance point there.
I did look in the manual to see if it was there (gosh knows I've missed it in the manual before) but I don't see it at all, either. http://media.zeromotorcycles.com/resources/owners-manuals/2020/2020-Zero-Owners-Manual-SRS.pdf
And I don't see any mentions for the F-platform and jack, center, or stand in the unofficial manual. The last entry is 2018 about the kickstand, so that's a page that pre-exists the third generation.
-Crissa
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It attaches near the motor and the weight would still tilt the bike forward... I don't think the centerstand points are the way to go?
https://zeromoc.com/product/srfs-center-stand/
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Hmm.
There has to be a spot to lift it!
-Crissa
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Pretty sure all the bikes I've seen worked on (this was years ago... admittedly) at Zero HQ were suspended on a hoist. The small scissor-lift (https://bit.ly/3vnD68K) was used in their parking lot for S/DS.
I think if you have the centerstand installed for SRF/SRS it would certainly make lifting the bike half as much work i.e. use any A-frame ladder and some rope to support the front half. I don't know? @Electric Terry (https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?action=profile;u=1639) how did you lift your SR/S?
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Why even take the wheel off? I would unbolt the rotors and spin them 180 or whatever and bolt them back on and see if it makes a difference. My FXS pulsed pretty bad when new. Rotor was not warped. Changed to EBC HH semi sintered pads and once they broke in, sweet ever since.
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Why even take the wheel off? I would unbolt the rotors and spin them 180 or whatever and bolt them back on and see if it makes a difference. My FXS pulsed pretty bad when new. Rotor was not warped. Changed to EBC HH semi sintered pads and once they broke in, sweet ever since.
It might be tough getting the rotors pass the axle without removing the wheel. Once you loosen the axle and pull it out you will need to support the front end of the bike. My recollection is that the guys that make rear wheel shop stands typically also make a front fork support stand that either supports the forks by lifting its lower ends or by inserting a rod into the opening under the steering bearing.
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No need to take the axle out or support the bike. Remove the rotor bolts, spin rotor to a different position and put the bolts back at the proper torque. Simple!
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Rotating the rotor without removing the wheel didn't help I think It got a bit worse (tried 3 positions with right side rotor)...
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After searching the web and measuring the rotors on my bike I found these ones that I am 95% sure will fit:
https://www.trwaftermarket.com/en/catalogue/product/MSW279/?fbclid=IwAR3iO3r2TD6MjN-L5e57uLbLtgg0YcGqFQxn1iBUEefjMUXUP2HVA0CplCU (https://www.trwaftermarket.com/en/catalogue/product/MSW279/?fbclid=IwAR3iO3r2TD6MjN-L5e57uLbLtgg0YcGqFQxn1iBUEefjMUXUP2HVA0CplCU)
https://www.galferonline.es/Sites/galferonline/paginasPersonalizadas/Modelo4/articulosDetalle.aspx?cod=DF655CW&fbclid=IwAR1MXyfmXfW907LPrFIuXsanquL_9rgkuhd8xNP1FLETQxHpxjItaAO4Fr0 (https://www.galferonline.es/Sites/galferonline/paginasPersonalizadas/Modelo4/articulosDetalle.aspx?cod=DF655CW&fbclid=IwAR1MXyfmXfW907LPrFIuXsanquL_9rgkuhd8xNP1FLETQxHpxjItaAO4Fr0)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Brembo-Serie-ORO-320mm-Front-Brake-Discs-Triumph-Daytona-T955I-78-B408-73-/124109883533?fbclid=IwAR1iUs7TsCSiCuvKIbfrVrPzuGu48LkoWg1G7Eyt0WfTmelLNbnQN20R2n0 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Brembo-Serie-ORO-320mm-Front-Brake-Discs-Triumph-Daytona-T955I-78-B408-73-/124109883533?fbclid=IwAR1iUs7TsCSiCuvKIbfrVrPzuGu48LkoWg1G7Eyt0WfTmelLNbnQN20R2n0)
https://bikes.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/info-parts?part-type=brakes&make=TRIUMPH%20(HINCKLEY%20PRODUCED%20MACHINES)&model=Rocket%20III%20Roadster%20ABS&year=10-15&search=Part%20Number&fbclid=IwAR3svPV5gHWbxWI0M45nVYpwkZu4gqg9X3r6zNUlpY0baVC4kCi8jkbZS9I (https://bikes.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/info-parts?part-type=brakes&make=TRIUMPH%20(HINCKLEY%20PRODUCED%20MACHINES)&model=Rocket%20III%20Roadster%20ABS&year=10-15&search=Part%20Number&fbclid=IwAR3svPV5gHWbxWI0M45nVYpwkZu4gqg9X3r6zNUlpY0baVC4kCi8jkbZS9I)
These are rotors for these bikes:
TRIUMPH DAYTONA 955i 955 02-...
TRIUMPH ROCKET III 2300 04-...
TRIUMPH ROCKET III ROADSTER 2300 10-...
TRIUMPH SPEED TRIPLE 955 i 955 02-...
TRIUMPH SPRINT ST 1050 1050 06-...
The have the following dimensions (which I measured on my OEM rotors while on the bike):
outer diameter: 320mm
inner diameter: 78.2mm
offset: 14.5mm
thickness: 5mm
fastener holes: 5
diameter for hole pattern: 100.5mm
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Small heads-up, the bolt holes are 10mm instead of 8mm on the OEM disc so you will need M8 shoulder bolts.
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Small heads-up, the bolt holes are 10mm instead of 8mm on the OEM disc so you will need M8 shoulder bolts.
Appreciating all the info in this thread 8)
Regarding the Front Disc Bolt holes;
Parts Manual specifies:
STAR DRIVE BUTTON HEAD SCREW M8X20-10.9
I can't see what the Bolt Hole Diameter, on the suggested replacement rotors is.
Is there a difference (in mounting bolt hole diameter) between the OEM Rotors & these replacements?
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The replacements will be 10 or 10.5mm. But are in the right place normally. I will let you know what bolts will fit. There are some M8 shoulder bolts (with 10mm shoulder) I have my eye on. Normally more info next week.
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On my SR, going for an aftermarket brembo disc completely solved the warp/pulse/thing that was getting really bad. the disc is not an official fit but does fit perfectly anyway, so if you found something that goes nicely on the srs, it has a good chance of fixing the problem !
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On my SR, going for an aftermarket brembo disc completely solved the warp/pulse/thing that was getting really bad. the disc is not an official fit but does fit perfectly anyway, so if you found something that goes nicely on the srs, it has a good chance of fixing the problem !
Which Brembo rotor fits an SR?
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On my SR, going for an aftermarket brembo disc completely solved the warp/pulse/thing that was getting really bad. the disc is not an official fit but does fit perfectly anyway, so if you found something that goes nicely on the srs, it has a good chance of fixing the problem !
Do you happen to have the part number for that? I have the pulsing, and will be replacing my disc.
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Hi all,
Just for the record, among all the problem I'm experiencing on my 2020 SRS 5000km (charger replacement inducing SOC/range inconsistency and longer charge time, loss of end of charge mobile notifications, clock not keeping time, remote access to location and status on ios app not working), I'm also having the pulsing problem on the front brake (that's my 11th bike and the first time I get this), and with regen I barely use these brakes.
The rotors dont seem to be warped, as checked by my local dealer. He changed the pads which obviously did not solve the issue. The problem is that for him everything is ok.
Guillaume
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For me replacing the rotors fixed the problem…
Quick question, did the charger replacement work to fix the wrong SoC and charge times?
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Hi all,
Just for the record, among all the problem I'm experiencing on my 2020 SRS 5000km (charger replacement inducing SOC/range inconsistency and longer charge time, loss of end of charge mobile notifications, clock not keeping time, remote access to location and status on ios app not working), I'm also having the pulsing problem on the front brake (that's my 11th bike and the first time I get this), and with regen I barely use these brakes.
The rotors dont seem to be warped, as checked by my local dealer. He changed the pads which obviously did not solve the issue. The problem is that for him everything is ok.
Guillaume
I have had this problem before on the front disc of a 2005 Triumph Bonneville and my 2009 BMW F650GS. I would get pulsating at the lever when nearing a stop, but not when braking at high speeds. When measuring the disc run-out with a dial indicator, there was no indication that the disc was warped. I was told by an old-time mechanic that it was likely due to a pad residue buildup on the disc surface. He recommended using a brake cleaner and plastic scrubbing pad to remove the surface buildup. He also claimed that the buildup was because I don't use the brakes much and when I do i brake lightly. He recommended that I use the brakes harder to prevent this buildup which can cause uneven friction across the surface of the disc.
While that did help for a while, the pulsing returned after a few thousand miles. Naturally, replacing the disc and pads restored the braking feel to normal. But eventually the pulsing would return. I tried several different brands of brake disc and pad combinations and eventually settled on both EBC brand pads and discs. So far that has worked out well for me and I haven't experienced any further braking problems on those bikes.
Getting back to Zero: The problem that I had with the braking of my 2018S was a loud screeching noise when coming to a stop. EBC HH pads totally stopped that issue and braking has been better than with the stock pads. Fortunately, I have not had any issues with pulsating brakes on that bike.
Cleaning your brake disc thoroughly and replacing the pads with a different brand like EBC might be worth a try, especially if aftermarket brake discs are hard to come by.
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Thanx Richard,
I'll probably give it a try after one last complain to my dealer (the bike is still under warranty), I'm quiet disappointed, this bike cost me 20k€ ...
For me replacing the rotors fixed the problem…
Quick question, did the charger replacement work to fix the wrong SoC and charge times?
The original charger reported error 37 at every charge, but it seemed to do the job after all. This behavior started after v18 upgrade. They changed it 2 weeks ago after 1 month delay waiting for the charger to come from US to France. But now, the SOC/range algorithm seems to have changed, my range is considerably shorter (maybe 30%) than before. Before, the range was 180km at full charge, now it reports 110km at start and eventually increases to 140km. Maybe it needs to "learn" and adapt to the battery pack, or they missed to reset something ... I definitely need to get back to the dealer.
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Hi all,
For your info, my dealer managed to deal with Zero to change at no cost my front brake disks and pads.
So far, the problem is fixed.
G.
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I have a 2020 SR/S and I had the same pulsing problem early on. I just started using the front brake a little harder when coming to a stop and the bike now has 11,000 miles and is fine. My Brammo Empulse with Brembo brakes did the same thing. Try this before you replace the rotors. What have you got to lose?