ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Energica => Topic started by: ultrarnr on April 24, 2021, 06:16:49 AM
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A few weeks ago I got my Ribelle updated with Firmware EN.A.002041.039 Version BDY: 6.0.1 Version DSB: 232
The problems this firmware causes is you will see Key Not in Range Error messages when you are on the bike and the remote is in your pocket. Unlike other error messages that go away after a few seconds this error message covers your dash until you press the mode switch. For a few days this happened 6-8 times over my 60 mile commute. After about four days it stopped for a week. Then it came back for 3-4 days then went away, only to come back again.
But this firmware also causes hard starting. It is common to take 2-3 attempts to get the bike turned on. Has taken four tries a few times. I always carry my physical key in case the remote doesn't work to get the bike turned on but so far haven't needed to use it.
If there is any benefit to installing this firmware it isn't obvious at all and the downsides I am seeing don't make it worth it. Best to wait for the next firmware and hope these problems are addressed.
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Could your remote's battery need to be replaced?
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Everything worked fine before the firmware update.
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Everything worked fine before the firmware update.
Still could be a bad battery in the Fob. Timing could be a coincidence or the new software expects a stronger FOB signal or whatever.
BTW, weak batteries in FOBs can do very strange things in some bikes.
In my Harley, I once could not start it with the fob in my pocket. No problems shown on screen. I put in my six digit code (so no FOB is required) and I still could NOT start it. But I discovered the reason was still the FOB!
What I had to do in this case, is get the FOB well out of range of the bike and then start the bike with my six digit code. Then all was fine.
Of couse, if I removed the battery from the FOB is would have done the same as it being away from the bike.
I later changed the FOB battery and everything was back to normal.
Much different bike, but I just wanted to explain that a weak battery in a FOB is different than a dead battery--and a dead battery can be better than a weak one, at least in some cases.
-Don- Reno, NV
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So I put a new Energizer 2032 battery in the FOB to see if it would help. It took four tries to get the bike to start up so I guess the battery wasn't the issue. Worth a try though.
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So I put a new Energizer 2032 battery in the FOB to see if it would help. It took four tries to get the bike to start up so I guess the battery wasn't the issue. Worth a try though.
By any chance did you check the voltage on the new battery? There have been several times I found bad NEW batteries for my TPMS that I just received from Amazon. But I have not had that issue with any new 2032 batteries used in other stuff, so that is probably unlikely, but I am in the habit of checking the voltage on every new battery I replace, before use.
Nevertheless, seems to me there was something wrong with your update. Is it possible to do the same update again, in case something got corrupt in the first download?
Has anybody else had this problem?
BTW, I also realize that if nobody else had the problem, it still could be a software compatible issue only on your bike. I had such an issue on my Tesla after an update. I had to wait until the next update for the fix. And the problem was no backup camera right after the update. Perhaps two percent of Tesla owners had the same issue with that update. Lucky me. Hopefully your updates come often.
Also, is there a way to go back to the previous version? I don't own a Ribelle myself, so I really don't know much about it. But it is possible that I will have one, one of these days.
-Don- Reno, NV
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It's always worth a try, I have had that happen to my Mazda.
-Crissa
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I talked with my dealer today and will just reinstall the previous firmware.
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I did not have a start problem (yet) , but after the update I have seen this message during driving serveral times. So it seems something is not ok.
(Heard from 3 other riders same problem, if you click it's gone but keeps coming back, your not alone)
For now not really a problem, just annoying.
Firmware should have be better tested :(
If you cannot start the pin should work?
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I recieved the latest firmware update a few weeks ago for my Esseesse9+ and started seeing similar behavior (from: FW:EN.A.002616.037 BDY:5.0.1 DSB:218 to FW:EN.A.002616.039 BDY:6.0.1 DSB:232)
Originally I received a "Key Not in Range" on my ride back from the dealer. At first I though I left my key back at the dealer, but there it was in my front pocket. Over the next week or so, I received the error a few more times. My first thought was the battery - so I checked it (nominal) and verified the key range (nominal 1.5m).
I have not had any "Key Not in Range" lately, but I do have starting issues. Essentially, to start the bike I press & hold the E-Keyless button for 3 seconds - the red immobilizer light flashes twice. I then press & hold the E-Keyless button again for 3 seconds - the system boots normally. This happens about 90% of the time.
I needed the firmware because it helped resolved a couple of issues, one being an even more annoying starting issue ...
The behavior and my work around was as follows:
turn bike on: press ignition button for 3 sec
boot sound & boot screen show on display
normal dashboard screen flashes, then it goes black
turn bike off: press ignition button until red immobilizer light flashes
turn bike on: press ignition button for 3 sec
boot sound - black screen
turn bike off: press ignition button until red immobilizer light flashes
turn bike on: press ignition button for 3 sec
boot sound - boot screen - normal screen
This behavior went away with the firmware update.
Also, last year, one day before I switched the motor off with the kill switch, I put down the kickstand (activating the motor shutoff interlock.) This caused an erroneous "fused contactor" error that I had to have fixed at the dealer. I was told this is a very rare event (Energica said it has only happened twice - lucky me), but this firmware version should prevent this from happeneing and, additionally, it provides a method for an internal cycling of the contactors (previously, it is my understanding, it had to be done with an external power source).
In any case, I needed the update.
... and this starting issue is a minor inconvenience - my other bikes are 1960's european bikes - where starting a bike is generally quite a production :)
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Keyless here, Firmware 5.0.1
Button actuation time < 1-sec hold required, say dot-dot-one after pressing then release.
System activation ~ 3-secs. I often find myself saying...c'mon bike wakeup...
Could prolonged 1st press of button be cause for your issues?
The turn-off state requires a minimum of ~ 1-sec press so that one doesn't inadvertently shut-down from casual contact - never experienced a glitch.
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....
Also, last year, one day before I switched the motor off with the kill switch, I put down the kickstand (activating the motor shutoff interlock.) This caused an erroneous "fused contactor" error that I had to have fixed at the dealer. I was told this is a very rare event (Energica said it has only happened twice - lucky me),
....
I never use the kill switch, always put down the kickstand. (kill switch looks and feel like an emergency switch, probably in my head only ::) )
Never had problems.
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Shouldn't you use the kill switch to remove the chance of accidental throttle application in case the bike is moved?
-Crissa
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Shouldn't you use the kill switch to remove the chance of accidental throttle application in case the bike is moved?
-Crissa
Traction drive enable (GO indicator) drops out when kick-stand is extended - not sure this is same as mains contactor drop-out but none-the-less, perfectly safe to leave the kill switch alone.
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Shouldn't you use the kill switch to remove the chance of accidental throttle application in case the bike is moved?
Traction drive enable (GO indicator) drops out when kick-stand is extended - not sure this is same as mains contactor drop-out but none-the-less, perfectly safe to leave the kill switch alone.
So the moment the kick-stand goes up, the motor is engaged and the throttle is live?
So you should use the kill switch whenever you're not straddling and ready to ride.
-Crissa
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So the moment the kick-stand goes up, the motor is engaged and the throttle is live?
No, when the bike is "off" it stays off until you activate it again.
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So the moment the kick-stand goes up, the motor is engaged and the throttle is live?
No, when the bike is "off" it stays off until you activate it again.
Reini is right, never had problems.
kick-stand down. bike 'driving' is OFF.
kick-stand up. bike 'driving' (GO light) still OFF. Press start and brake lever together for a moment and the driving mode engages. (GO lights goes ON)
So using kick-stand is perfectly safe. Always use it.
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So use the kill switch if you dismount before flipping the kickstand.
That it flips it for you in the case of kickstand down is just saving you from yourself forgetting to flip it.
-Crissa
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ultrarnr - By your original comments, v.039 certainly seems buggy.
You spoke about others with the same v.039 issues.
Suggestion - Contact your dealer and ask what the fix likely is.
Please ask the others to do the same.
My experience is - Energica's customer service is second to none.
That's just my 2 cents worth. Good Luck.
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Where does Energica publish revision notes for firmware?
Does FW:EN.A.002616.039 BDY:6.0.1 DSB:232 introduce the following feature?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOhbFEY4zfw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOhbFEY4zfw)
Kudos to ZeroFun for an enlightening, fun-to-watch video, certainly a member here, no?
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So I took my Ribelle back to the dealer yesterday and had the previous firmware reinstalled. No more error messages and it has never taken more than one attempt to turn the bike on since being back on firmware version 38. Problem solved.
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Firmware 037 (Ribelle) here - no FOB issues.
However, since topic is firmware, for MENU screen under SETTTINGS, the Ribelle Owners Manual, Rev 01 2020, page 49 speaks to "Electric Beat" / "only available on certain versions"...
Does version 036, 038 or 039 have "Electric Beat"?
Version 037 doesn't, had to take physical measures to inhibit (hot) tank LEDs but since my seat-always-closed logic is wrong for charge-mode, just wondering more than chasing a solution.
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PWM,
Firmware 38 doesn't have Electric Beat. I am pretty sure that 39 did.
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PWM,
Firmware 38 doesn't have Electric Beat. I am pretty sure that 39 did.
Thanks ultranr...sorry you had to jump the beta tester hoops back to the dealer.
Consider however...these are creature comfort features Energica is messing w/...sure, some of them a nuisance maybe but none of it impacts core functionality or mission critical stuff which IMO is rock solid...
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PWM, My experience is that the software on the Ribelle is a mess, definitely not developed by the same people who developed the software for the Eva 107 I had. As delivered the diagnostic software didn't work as one headlight didn't work and there was no fault code showing. I really thought the low beam only had one light on until I asked someone here who also had a Ribelle. It took five months to get everything sorted out. Then the charger died, couldn't charge at all and it took three weeks to get that fixed. Turns out the charger was fine but there was a software issue that caused everything. And now it turns out that some Ribelle's charge at 6A on 110 volts and some charge at 12A. And after several weeks there is no response from Energica as to what the Ribelle is supposed to be charging at when plugged into a 110 volt outlet. I find it REALLY hard to believe Energica doesn't know the correct 110 volt charge rate.
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Dang ultranr, no doubt your list is troubling to hear. I hate to voice opinion on some of the engineering decisions Energica has made but this gets tempered when one thinks why they made them...
1) greater pack capacity from original 13.5k served to address need for full performance at the end of the MotoE. Cooling capability has to be compromised for mass fraction concerns and again this is to address racing. Street bikes, are the beneficiaries but don't think something is not compromised...nuff said.
2) your beef is w/ charger change from variant in Eva 107 to the new one. I'm troubled w/ the operating temperature, not as felt by heatsink but at base of charger - mine gets throttled back from 14A to 10A or I force air cool and run at 14A. Me thinks here that Energica has to improve profitability to compete and survive...nuff said.
Still confident here, giving them a pass on the nuisance steps which plagues any and all technology companies today - you only live once and today where are you going to go for something better? Reminds me of DJI...
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And now it turns out that some Ribelle's charge at 6A on 110 volts and some charge at 12A. And after several weeks there is no response from Energica as to what the Ribelle is supposed to be charging at when plugged into a 110 volt outlet. I find it REALLY hard to believe Energica doesn't know the correct 110 volt charge rate.
Hi ultrarnr - the charger at 110VAC is likely seeing much less at the charger terminals because of voltage drop and is likely straining to keep demand. The only way to determine this for the (2) bike examples is to charge from the exact same source or test the 12A case w/ extension cable to induce same conditions. 240VAC is the only way to go and unfortunately a 3kW charger that operates optimally at 2kW, as came on my bike, is the truth of the matter and what we are given, no surprises sorry to say.
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PWM,
This is from a post over at advrider.com:
"Both it seems. The pics show 6A and 10A (was 12A before tapering to balance). One is my 21.5 and the other is my friend’s 21.5. Both started with the roughly the same SOC and charging for the same amount of time.
We swapped chargers, outlets, and double checked settings. Stefano and Chris are aware of the 110v/A difference and have been speaking to them about it this past week. A third fellow rider in my area also confirmed the 6A/12A 110v difference. "
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.... As delivered the diagnostic software didn't work as one headlight didn't work and there was no fault code showing. ..
Had the same issue here, no fault code 1 headlight didn't work. It's replaced under warranty
And yes they are proud on the code??
The Energica Software has reached 1.1M of program lines (645,000 program lines only for the VCU), over 200,000 more than a Space Shuttle!
Well, that's not for advertising, it means you have 1.1M lines where then can be bugs ;D
In software, less is better. No idea who found this a good idea to advertise with ;)
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I’ll have to check my firmware, but I have pin to ride, and my fob randomly drops out of range while riding. Also, 120v charging is limited to 660 watts or so.
Still, 1000x better than my last bike. :p
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Hi,
I do have this firmware recently installed and indeed same issue. Which is unfortunate but not big issue so far.
Another question: how do you start the bike with the pincode? I did register the pincode when taking it from the dealer but did not try a startup sequence there. Should I put the key far far way and then just press the button for x seconds?
Thx!
Seb
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The pin code is for when you forget your FOB. If your FOB is out of range and you try to turn the bike on the screen will come up asking for your pin code.
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I have the same issue. I specifically ordered the bike without keyless ignition but it came with it anyway. Key not in range a lot with it in my pocket. Can't start bike sitting with it in my pocket. Changed batteries with no effect. Annoying that I have to hold the fob close to the front of the bike and wait forever holding down the button. Why couldn't it just come with a regular key?? As for the "3kW" charger, even with the battery temperature green at 240Vac and mid level charge (50%) it often times only does 2kW. Very annoying when trying to charge during a trip waiting next to the charge station. 3kW is a joke and 2kW effective sucks. DC fast charge is great but there aren't any around for the most part.
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@ PVNRG can't you remove that keyless stuff and install a key contact, so you'll get rid of that s**t ?
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Or just got back to the older version of firmware which is what I did. Problem solved.