ElectricMotorcycleForum.com
Makes And Models => Zero Motorcycles Forum | 2013+ => Topic started by: 2020_SRS_Commuter on March 11, 2021, 07:21:39 AM
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Unfortunately, I was sold a brand new zero with a warped front disk. I could tell right away it was pulsing but because we were on a project at work for a few months I put off going to the dealer because I saw that "brake assemblies" were covered under warranty. When I finally got around to taking it to the dealer the claim was rejected because its a "wear and tear item". Sure enough, I read the fine print and thats true. So... read the fine print. I should have turned around on the day I bought it and brought it back then... maybe things would have been different.
I see the part number from the exploded diagram list is 25-08155. They call it "Front 320MM Carrier Assembly". I've internetted as best I can and found no source for this part. Of course I can purchase it from the dealer but I was looking for perhaps a cheaper price. Anyone gone down this road already and found something I missed?
To be fair the dealer quoted me 367 to replace the disk, which given how much some of these discs can cost seems reasonable, but of course I will buy the part myself and put it on. I dont like other people working on my bikes.
Any ideas about where to source parts is appreciated... I found nothing really. J Juan itself seemed to be a dead end.
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This is where most people get Zero parts.
https://www.af1racing.com/Zero-Motorcycles-All-Models
I did a quick search using you number and description and got nothing.
good luck.
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This is all I have so far... they are closed I assume.
J Juan USA
1123 North Water Street,
Suite 400
Milwaukee, WI 53202
P: +1 414 223 5699
and also , same phone number
J Juan USA LLC
135 W Wells St, Milwaukee, WI 53203
(414) 223-5699
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I see they have the drive belt at least. Thanks for that.
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Are you sure it's actually made by J Juan? I couldn't find any rotors on their site at all nor anywhere else on the internet, and some images of "J Juan brake kits" show Galfer rotors. I assume the SR/S uses a more common fitment compared to older models so you should be able to find some other options that would fit, I found this one:
https://www.ngbrakedisc.com/en/catalogo/zero-sr-f-sr-f-premium-front-1964xg/
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No, I assumed that. Maybe they ARENT J Juan. That makes sense because I looked all through J Juan's catalog and found nary a rotor, just calipers and such.
When I get home tonight I will do a very close visual and look for any physical narkings or identifiers on the discs.
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Galfer are good discs though, so if that's what they are (or if Galfer fit) that's a bonus.
Cas :)
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https://www.af1racing.com/FRONT-320MM-CARRIER-ASSEMBLY-ZM25-08155
$165
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You win the prize.
I received an email reply from Ed Cook at AF1 last night, but you have already posted what he told me.
IDK why but I don't receive email notifications of replies...
Here's what he sent:
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Yes we can get, full parts book here, then order by part number
https://www.af1racing.com/ProdImages/st3/SRS2020.pdf
Front brake rotor. 25-08155 Is the part number, sold here, each
https://www.af1racing.com/FRONT-320MM-CARRIER-ASSEMBLY-ZM25-08155
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A visual of my disks turned up only two markings... 25 08155 and MIN THK 4.5MM
I'll order one and see if it matches the OEM. It says its a special order that takes 3-4 weeks lead time. I'll post back when it arrives.
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As far as I know, Zero Brake Discs are made by NG Brake Disc, Barcelona. This would make sense, given that J-Juan are also based in Spain.
Their respective part numbers are:-
FX / S / SR / DS / DSR Front: 1747X, Rear: 1748X
SR/F / SR/S Front: 1964G or 1964XG, Rear: 1965
Their online catalogue for Zero is at: https://www.ngbrakedisc.com/en/?make=79970&model=&s=&post_type=product&action=vpf-search&lang=en&lang=en (https://www.ngbrakedisc.com/en/?make=79970&model=&s=&post_type=product&action=vpf-search&lang=en&lang=en)
Ulster Zero
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I've already purchased from AF1 and will report back, but still curious about this...
The NG discs I cant find a vendor for, but I see that the 1964G has a round outer edge, whereas the 1964XG is the "wave" type construction.
I found NG "distributors" listed on the NG website, but none in the United States, so I stopped with that.
No one responded to me yet from J Juan or XG, but Galfer was quick to respond. Brandon Terry in tech support says he researched but found no products in their line that fit.
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I've already purchased from AF1 and will report back, but still curious about this...
The NG discs I cant find a vendor for, but I see that the 1964G has a round outer edge, whereas the 1964XG is the "wave" type construction.
I found NG "distributors" listed on the NG website, but none in the United States, so I stopped with that.
No one responded to me yet from J Juan or XG, but Galfer was quick to respond. Brandon Terry in tech support says he researched but found no products in their line that fit.
Which does your SR/S have, smooth or wave? NG say the smooth is for the SR/F and the wave for the SR/S but I've only found photos of the smooth ones on bikes. Also neither actually match what comes stock on either bike, both the design of the carrier as well as the drilling pattern are different. Makes me wonder if NG really is the OEM, seems a bit weird that they would make 3 different rotors in what appears to be an uncommon fitment (my assumption based on the fact that Galfer doesn't make anything to fit it).
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Mine have the smooth edge.
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Not sure if you are replacing the rotor yourself but the bolts are likely to have Loctite on them. I would definitely apply some heat. If you are worried about the finish, stick an Allen wrench in the bolt and heat that carefully, then use a 3/8" or 1/2" drive Allen to loosen. You may even do this before removing the wheel. These rotors look similar to many other 320mm rotors used today whereas the other Zero models use really odd bolt patterns. I'm sure there is something else that will fit if you wanted to go aftermarket for racing or whatever.
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That's a sweet idea about how to transfer heat. Thanks! I'll cook them a bit just to be safe when the time comes.
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Hello, I did not reply back for a long time because a project kept me from changing the disk on my bike. It sat on the bench until finally I got around to it... I just kept riding with the warped one.
Anyway, I was all jacked to finally have non pulsing brakes and was dismayed to find on my first commute to work that it still had a slight pulsing in it.
When I got home, I inspected and found the OTHER disk also has problems, but of a different kind. There are several cracks in the disk, big enough to feel with a dragged fingernail, and it had a gruesome scraping sound as it went through the calipers. I did not notice this before, and the dealer didn't point it out either if you look at what I wrote in the beginning of this thread. The cracks go from one drilled hole to another in some places.
ANYWAY... I ordered a replacement and the damn thing had to sit for weeks waiting for the new disk. It arrived today and I put it on. Finally my front brakes work normally.
So that's two crap tastic disks out of two. One was bad from day one, the other didn't make it 9000 miles. Not good. I noticed something on the defective disks... they have a minimum thickness of 4.5mm stamped on them, but that's the thickness, essentially, of a new disk! The replacement disks are stamped minimum 3.5mm as you would expect. Also both the new disks have a circular marking added next to the part number that the old ones did not.
I suggest you check your bike and see if you have front disks with the incorrect minimum thickness markings on them. If you do... keep an eye out for them failing.
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New brake rotors for SR/F and SR/S have 5mm thickness from factory and a minimum thickness of 4,5mm.
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The ones I received from AF1 as factory replacements say 3.5mm.
Where did you get information that it should be 4.5mm thickness minimum?
It seems to me that 4.5mm minimum spec ought to be incorrect, and the 3.5mm is correct. I'm basing that on two things;
1) The replacement disks have the spec 3.5mm etched onto them
2) On another motorcycle I have that I have ridden for 20 some years, a 98 Honda Superhawk 996, its front disks are essentially the same size and serve a similar sized bike, and are also a little over 4.5mm new, and they are stamped minimum thickness 3.5mm. I've changed those disks twice over 150000 miles, and the first, second, and third sets all had that spec.
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Here's one of the faulty disks the bike came with.
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Replacement disk part number with 3.5 spec, this part number has a circle added.
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Original disk part number, a disk with the 4.5mm spec . This part number has no circle marking
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Interestingly my 21 SR/S (w/ 600mi) has these stampings;
- Circle "O" with Part#
- Min = 4.5mm
However actual Rotor Thickness is 5mm.
How thick are the disks w/ Min = 3.5mm?
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Both of my new disks are 4.9x mm. They have about 1000 miles or less. To be clear they have the circle marking.
I just measured them using a cheap digital OriginCal caliper set from ebay so the 100ths is variable. IDK why but my Mitutoyo will not power up and changing the battery didn't help. I hope it didn't die.
That spec is absurd.... Imagine replacing disks for a .5mm reduction in thickness. And its absurd that they are sending out parts with differing specs. I wonder if these are produced by Zero themselves or J Juan provides them as well as the calipers.
I'm going with the 3.5 spec because it makes sense and matches my other bike. Based on what I've seen so far the minimum thickness may be irrelevant. They may well fail again before they wear out. Not impressed. Not at all.
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On page 6.13 of my 2020 SR/S Owner's Manual, under Brake Disc Inspection, the minimum thicknesses are listed as 4.5 mm front, 4.0 mm rear.
For what it's worth, 0.5 mm wear seems to be standard. The front discs on my 2007 BMW are 4.5 mm thick when new and marked with a minimum thickness of 4.0 mm.
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Oh boy.
The new right disk I put on at around 9000 miles or so is now warping again, at 11000 miles/ It lasted two months and 2000 miles. Unreal. UN REAAL.
The left side one I replaced for cracking in several places is still holding up.
If this keeps up I will have to sell this motorcycle. I cant recommend anyone buy one at this point. I was sold a brand new bike with two disks that failed in 9k miles, and now the first of the replacements has already failed again. It has a warp that is about 90 degrees of its rotation.
And in case you're wondering.... I hardly use the brakes at all. This is used to get back and forth from work along the exact same route every time that consists mostly of slowdowns to a stop by regen. The brake lever is used to engage the switch on it, so it will change to the braking regen setting. Thats all.
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I'm ordering another disk from AF1. Not giving up yet but my patience is running out. I tried contacting Zero support where you have to enter your VIN and all that, and it wont accept it. When I click "submit" is says "This content isnt available. Contact the owner of this site for help." >:(
Hey ZERO can you help a customer out here? I spent 24 grand on this bike and the disks last 2k miles.
Here's what I wrote to them, in case some Zero lurker is reading this forum. That has happened before, because one of them private messaged me.
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Both front brake disks on my srs failed by 9k miles. One had cracks in it, one had a bad warpage. I replaced both using what are supposed to be factory parts from AF1 in texas. After only 2k miles the right side one is warped again. Morever, these new disks have a minimum thickness stamped on them 3.5mm, where the original ones said 4.5mm. I want to keep this bike but I cannot afford to keep buying disks. I hardly even use the disks, its mostly regen for stopping. What's going on with these parts?
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Are you sure there's not something up with your wheel? That seems more likely to me than having such terrible luck with multiple rotors, especially with them warping so soon and with such light usage.
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I considered this and looked closely at the assembly of them. I observed that on both disks, each point where the disk touches the wheel for a bolt was in full contact, so no way it could be warped from tightening down to the wheel. ( I checked this BEFORE putting any bolts in, and tried several different rotated positions, disk relative to wheel to double check ) I could see no warp or wobble initially in either of the new disks, tested visually by spinning the wheel on the forks, without the calipers attached, and placing a nail as close to the disks as possible to look for a change in distance there.
I did notice that the disk bolt holes have holes that are large enough, relative to the disk bolts, that you can actually put the disk a bit off center, so it would be slightly off balance when rotating. There is a bit of an art there. You have to do your best to center it. But this would not contribute to warpage. This slop also allows for a bit of rotation relative to the wheel, so I placed it resting against the bolts in the direction it would apply force when you brake.
Once the new disks were on, it actually worked properly. There was no pulsing. It was perfect. So if there was a problem with the wheel I would expect it would not work right from the start. I cant think of anything, maybe there is. For about 2k miles I had no pulsing. Then last week I noticed.... uh oh. And every ride it seemed to be more obvious to me.
Its my opinion that these disks are made poorly. The metallurgy is wrong, or the way they are assembled causes some weird loading in the floats. That's another thing I've noticed about these J Juan brakes that I've never seen on any of my other motorcycles... the disk float is enough that it actually makes a little cracking sound moving around in the float points. Standing beside it, I can roll the bike back and brake, then roll the bike forward and brake, and literally hear the disks adjust in the floats.
IDK man but I'm furious about this. This should not be happening. I paid 24 grand for a bike and this elementary crap that works on beater Suzuki's doesn't work on this bike. Like giving a track runner some hobo's shoes to run in with the heel coming off.
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Maybe you should just replace the brakes if you put them under more stress than Zero expected?
I mean, you'd replace the shocks or tires if the stock ones were unsuitable to your use, right?
-Crissa
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If that was the case, yes. But I probably use the brakes less than most people do.
90% of my braking is nothing more than pulling the brake lever just enough to switch to braking regen ( 100% for me ) .
I rarely ever really use the brakes to stop. Just to hold my position at a stoplight or whatever.
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Same here and my discs were fuxx0red within a thousand miles. I think that tiny imperfections in the wheel casting, and a fixed mounting, and not-the-best-quality discs, all add up to a recipe for warpage.
I seem to recall that OEM discs are typically cut from a huge coil of steel cut into slices. The nearer the centre of the coil your discs are cut from, the more likely they are to deform when heated. High quality aftermarket discs by Galfer, Braking, Brembo, EBC etc. are milled out of flat sheets instead to far higher quality. I would seriously consider replacing the Zero discs with one of these manufacturers - they will likely last far better. Even better if you can get a fully-floating rotor mounting as well but it's unlikely there's a handy fitment for the SR/* bikes without possibly replacing the whole front wheel...
I think it was Spondon who invented the fully floating button mount for disc brakes 40 years ago but it is a bit strange that they're not more commonly used. The fully decoupled mounting allows the discs to expand when they get hot without buckling against rigid cast wheel mounting points, and isolates the heat to the rotor blade rather than allowing it to heat the wheel up (potentially making that change shape, too...) etc. It's win all round.
Cas :)
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2021 SR/S owner here and I have the same problem. Brakes were amazing when new but now pulse really bad especially at low speeds. With each pulse I can literally feel it in the brake lever from fluid being forced backwards into the master cylinder. I measured the thickness of the rotors at a few different spots and noticed it varied by as much as 0.5mm
Looking to replace the rotors with a different brand so if anyone has luck with a particular one please post it here.
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Sux, I remember contacting several brands and receiving the answer no, we do not make disks for Zeros.
I think Galfer was one of them. Regrettably I didn't make notes about it and when a poster here kindly linked me to the OEM part on AF1's website on the first page of this thread I ordered from there and forgot about the rest.
FWIW I didn't find ANY alternatives. With luck somebody knows something we don't and will share it.
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2021 SR/S owner here and I have the same problem. Brakes were amazing when new but now pulse really bad especially at low speeds. With each pulse I can literally feel it in the brake lever from fluid being forced backwards into the master cylinder. I measured the thickness of the rotors at a few different spots and noticed it varied by as much as 0.5mm
Looking to replace the rotors with a different brand so if anyone has luck with a particular one please post it here.
Sorry if I'm saying something you already know, but its not varying thickness that is your issue most likely. The disks actually bend so they are not flat. Also in case you have not read this entire thread through, one of my disks literally had cracks in it, which is terrifying. Be sure your disks don't have the cracks too.
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Cracks is again a symptom of warping under extreme heat while being very rigidly fixed in place. The steel ain't got nowhere to go so...
Cas :)
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I believe EBC makes replacement rotors. The part number is MD669X.
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Hmm.
Out of time here's something for people to look into but I have to go do other things, Ill be back later.
https://ebcbrakes.com/assets/Flip-Catalogues/EBC_HARLEY_CAT_ISSUE_402_2021_FLIP_April/EBC_HARLEY_CAT_ISSUE_402_2021_FLIP_April.html
Navigate to page 18, it says MD1187C for disks.
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I believe EBC makes replacement rotors. The part number is MD669X.
I see that here, but it says they are out of stock.
https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/motorcycle/zero-electric-motorcycles/zero-sr-s/2019-2021/40772
EDIT: They are on amazon $185 US
EDIT EDIT: Those appear not to be the right kind. EBC direct says they are, amazon says they arent. Maybe different kinds for different models of bike? IDK. Still looking.
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I sent some emails.
EBC quickly wrote me back: the correct part number is MD1187C, and they have four in stock. Now they have two. ;D
AF1 also responded fast and cancelled my order for the OEM disc.
The EBC versions are here: ( Click the "Disc" tab at the top next to the magnifying glass icon )
https://perfectbrakes.com/motorcycle/partno/md1187c
I'm assuming that the stock photo is incorrect or maybe incomplete. It only shows the braking surface, not the mounting part that doesn't float. They told me this is the correct disc in email.
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I have figured this out a few weeks ago:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/4079340815468429/
I also posted a lot of part numbers in another thread here on the forum about fitting rotors from Galfer, Brembo, EBC, TRW etc.:
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=11028.msg103290#msg103290
The bolts are critical though
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Awesome. You are the person I was hoping would show up. I'm going to copy out all of your info to my Zero maintenance files.
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I have figured this out a few weeks ago:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/zmcowners/permalink/4079340815468429/
I also posted a lot of part numbers in another thread here on the forum about fitting rotors from Galfer, Brembo, EBC, TRW etc.:
https://www.electricmotorcycleforum.com/boards/index.php?topic=11028.msg103290#msg103290
The bolts are critical though
^ Horary!!! Thanks for sharing those Bolt Part Numbers 8)
In case anyone cares to know, where the magic bolts can be ordered:
https://www.maddparts.com/oemparts/partsearch/yamaha?partsearch=90149-08010-00 (https://www.maddparts.com/oemparts/partsearch/yamaha?partsearch=90149-08010-00)
I ordered a dozen, to save for when needed.
(https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/208038304_10159340425893936_3091928922071829259_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&ccb=1-3&_nc_sid=b9115d&_nc_ohc=IAs1Sfw22DMAX9eEi5t&_nc_ht=scontent-sjc3-1.xx&oh=73766ef65e75a171924f0f566291d8de&oe=612449BE)
Whoever is the first to get aftermarket rotors installed, lets see some pics!
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I have the TRW version laying around but only dry fitted them, they fit fine with these bolts. Was really difficult to isolate the correct bolts... (correct shoulder height etc...) But at the moment I'm still using the Zero discs now (still working fine after 2500 km).
I have seen someone from the UK has fitted EBC discs after I posted the numbers, but he used the Zero bolts and that was not really a good solution. But the EBC rotors fitted fine.
The TRW ones have a very cool blueish titanium colored inner part. which I think would be pretty with the blue SR/S or the Mint SR/F.
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Just a quick note, my disks arrived today from EBC and they are NOT replacements. These are completely flat and don't have the offset inner part to attach to the wheel. Very frustrating. I've contacted them for a refund and shipping label. Don't buy MD1187C . The EBC rep was wrong.
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Just a quick note, my disks arrived today from EBC and they are NOT replacements. These are completely flat and don't have the offset inner part to attach to the wheel. Very frustrating. I've contacted them for a refund and shipping label. Don't buy MD1187C . The EBC rep was wrong.
Yeah don't trust reps, the EBC disc you need are: MD669XC. See my post above with links...
https://www.trwaftermarket.com/en/catalogue/product/MSW279/?fbclid=IwAR3iO3r2TD6MjN-L5e57uLbLtgg0YcGqFQxn1iBUEefjMUXUP2HVA0CplCU
https://www.galferonline.es/Sites/galferonline/paginasPersonalizadas/Modelo4/articulosDetalle.aspx?cod=DF655CW&fbclid=IwAR1MXyfmXfW907LPrFIuXsanquL_9rgkuhd8xNP1FLETQxHpxjItaAO4Fr0
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Brembo-Serie-ORO-320mm-Front-Brake-Discs-Triumph-Daytona-T955I-78-B408-73-/124109883533?fbclid=IwAR1iUs7TsCSiCuvKIbfrVrPzuGu48LkoWg1G7Eyt0WfTmelLNbnQN20R2n0
https://bikes.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/info-parts?part-type=brakes&make=TRIUMPH%20(HINCKLEY%20PRODUCED%20MACHINES)&model=Rocket%20III%20Roadster%20ABS&year=10-15&search=Part%20Number&fbclid=IwAR3svPV5gHWbxWI0M45nVYpwkZu4gqg9X3r6zNUlpY0baVC4kCi8jkbZS9I
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Yep thanks I will try those next. First I need my money back so I can spend it again.
Perfectbrakes was pretty cool, they answered quickly and there is a printed return label already in the shipping box.
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Just a quick note, my disks arrived today from EBC and they are NOT replacements. These are completely flat and don't have the offset inner part to attach to the wheel. Very frustrating. I've contacted them for a refund and shipping label. Don't buy MD1187C . The EBC rep was wrong.
This must be because of your case....
New update (in Red) , in the on-line catalog (see Pg 30)
https://ebcbrakes.com/assets/Flip-Catalogues/EBC_UK_MC_CAT_202a_July_2021/EBC_2021_UK_MC_CAT_ISSUE_202a_FLIP_July_COMP.html (https://ebcbrakes.com/assets/Flip-Catalogues/EBC_UK_MC_CAT_202a_July_2021/EBC_2021_UK_MC_CAT_ISSUE_202a_FLIP_July_COMP.html)
Nice to see EBC acting so quickly.
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Good luck on the hunt for higher quality aftermarket rotors.
Rotor manufacturers that build products to a low price point can cut corners when it comes to the formula and quality of the steel used. Metal that needs to be flat and stay that way should go through a stress relieving process. Not saying that is the issue here but I have never seen surface cracking on quality discs.
Since you mentioned that you rarely use your front brakes it seems unlikely they are warping from heat. Unless your pads are dragging on the rotor due to the piston seals being dirty. Do you have any photos of the braking surface or the outer lip? A lip that is showing signs of bluing is getting too hot.
Did you fully bed your rotors and pads in when the bike was new? What about when you replaced the rotors?
It is possible to unevenly bed in your rotors, this can cause localized hot spots that may lead to warping.
You might want to try to clean and lube the rotor buttons, one or more of them could be seized. Will have the same symptoms as a warped rotor as this prevents the rotor from properly aligning itself with the brake pads. Ideally the buttons should spin freely. Most stock rotors are "semi floating" and use a spider washer on the back side to limit the amount of side to side movement.
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I have had problems in the pasts with pulsating rotors on both a 2005 Triumph Bonneville and my 2009 BMW F650GS. However, the rotors were not warping, as checked with a dial indicator. Apparently, they had developed an uneven deposit on the surface that resulted in uneven braking that felt like a warped rotor, especially when coming to a stop. Carefully, cleaning the disc with alcohol and a plastic dish scrubbing pad brought my braking back to normal again. But the problem did return after a few thousand miles. Eventually, I managed to find the right combination of replacement pads and quality aftermarket rotors and haven't had a problem since then. If I recall correctly, I think using both EBC pads and discs was the solution to that issue.
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That's a good point about the pads. I'll buy new ones just to be sure. But I don't think any hot spot caused it because I seriously don't use the brakes much, and I'm very very easy on them. I keep myself entertained at stops by slowing early and gradually, and trying not to have to put my feet down waiting for it to turn green. Cant balance the bike when its still but I get as close as I can. 100% regen does most or all of that.
The pads aren't dragging anymore than they normally do. The wheel turned as easily as you would expect.
A stuck rotor button is probably not the issue because the warpage is across about 45 degrees of rotation, and the rest is true.
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That's a good point about the pads. I'll buy new ones just to be sure. But I don't think any hot spot caused it because I seriously don't use the brakes much, and I'm very very easy on them. I keep myself entertained at stops by slowing early and gradually, and trying not to have to put my feet down waiting for it to turn green. Cant balance the bike when its still but I get as close as I can. 100% regen does most or all of that.
The pads aren't dragging anymore than they normally do. The wheel turned as easily as you would expect.
A stuck rotor button is probably not the issue because the warpage is across about 45 degrees of rotation, and the rest is true.
I am one of the easiest brakers around and my disc brakes still developed hot spots. But I do think it was because of some sort of incompatibility between the material brake pads and the material of the brake discs that happened to be specified by the manufacturer. However, it did take about 10K miles for the problem to arise. Finally, I might add that 15 years ago I wrote to the service guy at Rider Magazine regarding my disc pulsating problem. He claimed that it was likely due to my easy braking habits which caused the hot spots on the disc. He recommended braking hard at times to rub the disc clean. That advice always made me scratch my head, but so far that seems to have helped. Either that, or I have just been lucky with my choice of replacement pads and rotors.
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Braking hard will scrub off oxide layers that accrete. Perhaps oxides create hot spots?
It's always good practice to throw some emergency braking into your routine, anyhow. Just like U-turns and swerves, you don't get better (or even keep up) if you're not doing them.
-Crissa
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Braking hard will scrub off oxide layers that accrete. Perhaps oxides create hot spots?
It's always good practice to throw some emergency braking into your routine, anyhow. Just like U-turns and swerves, you don't get better (or even keep up) if you're not doing them.
-Crissa
True. ;)
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I bought the parts as NervEasy described. EBC rotors, new EBC pads, the Yamaha bolts.
Post back when I get all the kit together and compare it to the old.
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Ok, succes! those should fit.
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EBC rotors, Yamaha bolts, Galfer organic pads…
So far so good. The organic pads have a lot less bite but modulation is really good. Regen is strong enough to do most of my braking anyway so think the organic pads are better suited for my needs. Will report back after a few thousand miles.
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EBC rotors, Yamaha bolts, Galfer organic pads…
So far so good. The organic pads have a lot less bite but modulation is really good. Regen is strong enough to do most of my braking anyway so think the organic pads are better suited for my needs. Will report back after a few thousand miles.
NICE 8)
The Gold Carriers look good.
Now we need to see what NervEasy recommended:
The TRW ones have a very cool blueish titanium colored inner part. which I think would be pretty with the blue SR/S or the Mint SR/F.
Let's see those pics NervEasy ;)
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That's a good point about the pads. I'll buy new ones just to be sure. But I don't think any hot spot caused it because I seriously don't use the brakes much, and I'm very very easy on them. I keep myself entertained at stops by slowing early and gradually, and trying not to have to put my feet down waiting for it to turn green. Cant balance the bike when its still but I get as close as I can. 100% regen does most or all of that.
The pads aren't dragging anymore than they normally do. The wheel turned as easily as you would expect.
A stuck rotor button is probably not the issue because the warpage is across about 45 degrees of rotation, and the rest is true.
I am one of the easiest brakers around and my disc brakes still developed hot spots. But I do think it was because of some sort of incompatibility between the material brake pads and the material of the brake discs that happened to be specified by the manufacturer. However, it did take about 10K miles for the problem to arise. Finally, I might add that 15 years ago I wrote to the service guy at Rider Magazine regarding my disc pulsating problem. He claimed that it was likely due to my easy braking habits which caused the hot spots on the disc. He recommended braking hard at times to rub the disc clean. That advice always made me scratch my head, but so far that seems to have helped. Either that, or I have just been lucky with my choice of replacement pads and rotors.
I've been dealing with surging on the front disks on my SR/F for a long time. Yesterday I did about a half dozen "hard stops" from a decent speed. That seems to have solved my problem at least for now. I, like you, pretty much never use the brakes since I rely on 100% progressive regen, I'll try to remember to use them hard from time to time to see if it keeps the pulsing away.
Steve
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Just wanted to follow up to thank everyone for their help. I wanted to wait a good while to see what the final results were.
The problem is solved. EBC brakes continue to work just fine. They did have a bit of a weird feel at first until everything bedded in, as if I could feel each one of those milled slots in them passing through the pad's grip. But it went away and they are smooth as butter now.
ThankS!!!