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[wavelet]

Wait, what? Your 1970s Beemer didn't come stock with a dual-tone double Fiamm horn? That's the standard against which all loud bike horns are measured, IME, and the horn most folks replace their non-BMW bike's with...

The stock 1971 BMW horn (single car type horn) was about the loudest horn you could find on a motorcycle back in those days. IOW, still not very loud, but a lot louder than all the Japanese horns, which isn't saying much.

I remember one of the motorcycle magazines complaining about it back in those days. Saying we should all go into a motorcycle shop and ask to press the horn and say "can't buy this bike, horn is too weak."

BTW,  the very weakest horns I ever heard came stock on my 2017 Zeros. A very faint "beep".  The SR/F horn is quite a bit louder, so at least they did something about it. I put on dual flamms (with a relay) on each of my Zeros.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

Interesting. Both the 1982 R65LS which I rode when living in the US in the early 1990s, and the 1977 R100RS I bought when I returned to Israel in 1995 had the dual-Fiamm setup, and I recall people saying on the motorcycle newsgroups at the time saying this was standard on  the airheads. I guess not... The horns on the Japanese bikes I remember were actually weaker than a bicycle bell.

[Richard230]

Wait, what? Your 1970s Beemer didn't come stock with a dual-tone double Fiamm horn? That's the standard against which all loud bike horns are measured, IME, and the horn most folks replace their non-BMW bike's with...

The stock 1971 BMW horn (single car type horn) was about the loudest horn you could find on a motorcycle back in those days. IOW, still not very loud, but a lot louder than all the Japanese horns, which isn't saying much.

I remember one of the motorcycle magazines complaining about it back in those days. Saying we should all go into a motorcycle shop and ask to press the horn and say "can't buy this bike, horn is too weak."

BTW,  the very weakest horns I ever heard came stock on my 2017 Zeros. A very faint "beep".  The SR/F horn is quite a bit louder, so at least they did something about it. I put on dual flamms (with a relay) on each of my Zeros.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

Interesting. Both the 1982 R65LS which I rode when living in the US in the early 1990s, and the 1977 R100RS I bought when I returned to Israel in 1995 had the dual-Fiamm setup, and I recall people saying on the motorcycle newsgroups at the time saying this was standard on  the airheads. I guess not... The horns on the Japanese bikes I remember were actually weaker than a bicycle bell.

My daughter's 1981 BMW R65LS still has the original horn and it goes "beep, beep", not "honk, honk".     I am not sure that any BMWs came stock with a dual-Fiamm horn. But that was certainly a common after-sales upgrade.  Nowadays, I believe that motorcycle horn decibels are set by law and likely have to conform to the lowest common denominator of those regulations.   

[DonTom]

Wait, what? Your 1970s Beemer didn't come stock with a dual-tone double Fiamm horn? That's the standard against which all loud bike horns are measured, IME, and the horn most folks replace their non-BMW bike's with...

I cannot speak for the later models, but my 1971 BMW R75/5 came with a single horn mounted on the frame just behind the forks. It was considered loud when compared to the Japanese bikes back then but borderline when deciding if I should change it or not.  IIRC, I changed to dual horns after the stock one crapped  out, so I decided to leave it stock until then.

Now the BIG news:

I pick up my new bike here tomorrow!

-Don- Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

I think I mentioned here before that my SS9 only has one key. Both the spare and master are missing. The dealer received the bike that way, the two extra keys were not in the box.

They are trying to find the keys at Energica. But if they cannot find them, I was told they will pick up my bike for free from here in Auburn  for the 600 miles service and change the immobilizer and then I will  have all three keys.

I hope they mean free both ways.

Anyway, a deal like that makes me almost hope they do not find my keys.

BTW, what do they do in the 600 mile service besides change the tranny fluid (that they call motor oil) and the coolant?  I was planning on doing that much myself anyway. Or is there any reason why I can't or shouldn't?

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[BigPoppa]

According to the owner's manual, there's electric motor oil as well as transmission oil. The 600 mile service calls for the transmission oil to be checked but the motor oil and coolant to be changed. There are also a number of inspections to be performed.

I've found that sometimes, service manuals will have more items to be checked and/or replaced than what the owner's manual specifies. The lack of a service manual to make sure is the only reason I could think of to let the dealer perform the 600 mile service rather than performing it yourself. That or if you're unsure about working around the high voltage components.

[DonTom]

According to the owner's manual, there's electric motor oil as well as transmission oil. The 600 mile service calls for the transmission oil to be checked but the motor oil and coolant to be changed. There are also a number of inspections to be performed.

I've found that sometimes, service manuals will have more items to be checked and/or replaced than what the owner's manual specifies. The lack of a service manual to make sure is the only reason I could think of to let the dealer perform the 600 mile service rather than performing it yourself. That or if you're unsure about working around the high voltage components.

I have worked around high voltage for most of my life, so that's not an issue. BTW, that also means I have been zapped  a few  times by screwing up in one way or another. 

I see the bike has a 300V battery.

Let's see, I have the owner's manual right here. Page 111 & 112:

tranny oil: change  at 600 miles.

Motor oil:inspect at 600 miles,  replace at 6,000 miles.

Inspect coolant at 600 miles, replace at 6,000 miles.

So it looks like only the tranny fluid is to be changed at 600 miles.

Is there any instructions or info., where the drain plugs are located and the amount of fluids required in the owner's manual? If so, I am not finding it.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[togo]

> 7. CCS charging is never free. Cost a few bucks always. But can  still use the many free J-1772's  in Reno and many other places.

Plugshare shows some free ones.

For example, Harley-Davidson of Rocklin CA and Reno NV : - )

And Stonestown Mall, San Francisco.

[BigPoppa]

I have worked around high voltage for most of my life, so that's not an issue. BTW, that also means I have been zapped  a few  times by screwing up in one way or another. 

I see the bike has a 300V battery.

Let's see, I have the owner's manual right here. Page 111 & 112:

tranny oil: change  at 600 miles.

Motor oil:inspect at 600 miles,  replace at 6,000 miles.

Inspect coolant at 600 miles, replace at 6,000 miles.

So it looks like only the tranny fluid is to be changed at 600 miles.

Is there any instructions or info., where the drain plugs are located and the amount of fluids required in the owner's manual? If so, I am not finding it.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

I stand corrected. I was posting from my faulty memory. I haven't found any instructions or diagrams in the owner's manual for changing fluids (drain plug locations, torque values, etc.).

[DonTom]

I stand corrected. I was posting from my faulty memory. I haven't found any instructions or diagrams in the owner's manual for changing fluids (drain plug locations, torque values, etc.).

Some torque values are on page 74.

-Don-   Auburn, CA

[Demoni]

It's nice to know that the Energica Service Manger is on line here!

Looks like adding a 12 VDC socket will be no issue on my new bike, as long as I can find a neat way to run just one wire. It will not have the heated grips so I assume that  ten amp fuse will be good up to 8  amps or so from the output side of that fuse. But if I use my own fuse from the opposite side, would I be able to draw, say 15 amps, if I needed to run a tire air compressor?  Tire pumps are usually  just over that ten amps under load, IIRC.

One more question, unrelated. The front tire valve stem. Can it be changed to a straight one so I can add a small TMPS sensor (such as used with many of the Garmin GPSes) that will not hit the front brake caliper?  I have a TPMS on my other nine bikes and I won't feel right not having one on this bike for both tires.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

Thanks, happy to be here, I love these things too!

Regarding the max amp load on the accessory fuse, you should not go over the 10A rating as the wires are not specified for constant loads above that. Is it possible you could draw 15Amps from that circuit without negative effects? Possibly...

These is nothing special about the valve mount on the Energica wheels. Just a small recess on the backside of the rim that the securing nut sits in. I do not see any issue with exchanging the factory units over for TPS ones. Granted it will make adding air a bit harder do the disk clearance.

[DonTom]

Thanks, happy to be here, I love these things too!

Regarding the max amp load on the accessory fuse, you should not go over the 10A rating as the wires are not specified for constant loads above that. Is it possible you could draw 15Amps from that circuit without negative effects? Possibly...

That's kinda what I assumed. IMO, a little over the ten amps  should  be fine because if will never be for more than a few minutes if ever used at all at such current, which will most likely  only be 11 or 12 amps anyway, such a small tire air compressor.

These is nothing special about the valve mount on the Energica wheels. Just a small recess on the backside of the rim that the securing nut sits in. I do not see any issue with exchanging the factory units over for TPS ones. Granted it will make adding air a bit harder do the disk clearance.

What I would want is just a standard straight valve so I can add a Garmin TPMS sensor, which are light and small.  I expect it to be a little more difficult when I need to add air. But it was that recess that I was concerned with.

I am getting the bike delivered here tomorrow. But there is an issue, the master and spare key are both lost. The dealer says they have never received them from Energica, so they are working with them now on that issue. It could mean the bike must go back for a new immobilizer if they cannot find the keys, but Energica will pay for the bike to go back and then I can get my 600 mi service done as well, which isn't a bad deal.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[DonTom]

> 7. CCS charging is never free. Cost a few bucks always. But can  still use the many free J-1772's  in Reno and many other places.

Plugshare shows some free ones.

For example, Harley-Davidson of Rocklin CA and Reno NV : - )

And Stonestown Mall, San Francisco.

I meant for our bikes.  The charger at the Rocklin HD is not yet on line, but IIRC, it mentioned something about the charge rates right on the box. I think it could be free for the LW only.

Notice that NOBODY has charged there yet. I am the "Donald" check-in there.  I know Plugshare makes it look like it is on-line, but it isn't, but should be sometime next month. Also, notice no check-ins in Reno, perhaps it is also not yet on-line.

 Also, I was also told by an employee at the Reno shop that  there will be a charge to non-Harleys. 

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[Richard230]

I wonder how they prevent someone from using the charger without paying while the store is selling Screaming Eagle parts to someone or when the shop is closed?     Perhaps the LiveWire has a BMS that tells the charger that the charging session is free.

[DonTom]

I wonder how they prevent someone from using the charger without paying while the store is selling Screaming Eagle parts to someone or when the shop is closed?     Perhaps the LiveWire has a BMS that tells the charger that the charging secession is free.

Probably not.  It doesn't have to be all that complicated. Many chargers have a card used to activate these chargers.  Or a SmartPhone. Or can be activated by a telephone call. Or a credit card. The HD charge stations are ChargePoint. I have several  ChargePoint cards that should  work with the HD chargers. How I am charged is by the Chargepoint card and the credit card it is linked to. So all Harley has to do is pay Chargepoint for when the Harleys charge at the HD chargers. I don't think the charge station knows more than the account used. IOW, if I purchased a Livewire but ONLY used the HD Charepoint stations with my Energica, I bet it would still be free for my Energica at HD stations.

But I am not sure. I know some chargers do read your VIN, such as the Tesla Superchargers. But I don't think CCS does. No doubt somebody here knows more than I do about the CCS, as I have not yet even used such. But soon will.

Also, see here.

-Don-  Auburn, CA

[SBK74]

The CCS charger reads the MAC address of the vehicle. In The Netherlands, the major fast charging network (FastNed), provides a feature called ‘autocharge’ where the charging automatically starts after inserting the CCS connector and recognizing the vehicle. 

I can imagine HD could have a ‘positive list’ of vehicles being able to charge at their stations under certain conditions