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I know torque curves for electric motors are very different than ICE's,
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After all, with current tech, electric bikes already have completely sufficient range for most commutes, and the primary missing piece is no-acceleration high speed riding.
There are a couple potential advantages to adding gearing, and a couple big downsides.
Using a lower gear ratio provides stronger acceleration as everyone knows, but it also reduces the current the motor draws when starting. This increases efficiency at low speed and potentially range. Using a higher gear at high speed keeps the motor in its sweet spot, again improving both performance and efficiency. Having lots of gears or a CVT would improve both performance and efficiency... but not really.
Aside from the mechanical complexity, cost, and weight (not minor considerations) each transition power takes between the motor shaft and the rear wheel comes at some cost of power loss. I have read many times that ICE engines lose 10-15% of crankshaft power to the driveline. This is unavoidable in ICE engines which provide peak performance in only one narrow RPM range.
Zero uses no gear reduction but uses a large diameter motor rotor to provide adequate torque. Energica and Harley each have a single fixed gear reduction before the belt or chain pulley. Adding a single additional gear option could allow the use of a smaller motor for longer range or provide better high and low speed performance for the same motor.
It seems to me that a single planetary gear set that can be be locked with a dog or friction clutch could be attached directly to the motor housing of new bike designs. A friction clutch could be managed seamlessly as in an automatic transmission while a more efficient dog clutch would require more careful engagement (as clutch and synchros provide in a manual automotive transmission). When locked the clutch makes the planetary gear a direct drive, eliminating mechanical losses. Additional clutches could reverse the power flow through the planetary gear set providing an overdrive but this isn't really needed.
Now, whether this would all be worth the cost in complexity, weight, and the almighty dollar, that may have already been decided by the market. Nobody thinks our bikes are cheap. Adding perhaps 1000USD and a maintenance schedule may not be worth it, especially in the small motor/small battery bikes where it would provide the greatest benefit. If someone only wants a higher top speed they can sacrifice low speed acceleration and change the pulley/sprocket final drive ratio. People do that today with both higher and lower ratios.
SR/F dyno chart:
https://imgur.com/a/VyuVAf8quick planetary gear 101: