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[Crilly]

So order 5 different brake lines.

[NetPro]

If you will install a riser to bring the bar only 2 inches higher or so, you might be OK with the stock line.
Anything over that and you'll need to change the line with a longer one, depending on how high.

It is a good thing many online retailers offer a no-questions-asked return policy: This would be the perfect use for it.

[MichaelJohn]

From NetPro:

Don't laugh but this is what I chose for now: https://www.denniskirk.com/quadboss/black-7-8-in-suzuki-oem-bend-handlebar-12-368.p5902801.prd/5902801.sku

Sorry, but I had to laugh a little. Mini ape hangers on a Zero. Gotta love it. I think 2" risers will be fine for me.

Thanks for all the info.

[alko]

Keep in mind the taller the handlebars, the more possibility it will twist in the clamps under heavy accerelation and braking.

[NetPro]

Keep in mind the taller the handlebars, the more possibility it will twist in the clamps under heavy accerelation and braking.

Very valid point! As there is more leverage, more force is applied to the clamp point as you push or pull at the top.
So far I have not had any slippage but if I do, I will come up with something. First possibility: Drill a 3/16 hole through the handlebar, right between the clamp bolt pairs and insert a hardened still pin, that goes like 1/8 of an inch (or even less) into the clamp base itself.
There is plenty of solid material there and it won't weaken the clamp at all and can be removed if/when restoring the bike to original condition.

[NetPro]

From NetPro:

Don't laugh but this is what I chose for now: https://www.denniskirk.com/quadboss/black-7-8-in-suzuki-oem-bend-handlebar-12-368.p5902801.prd/5902801.sku

Sorry, but I had to laugh a little. Mini ape hangers on a Zero. Gotta love it. I think 2" risers will be fine for me.

Thanks for all the info.

This is not quite a mini ape hanger. (getting close, I'd admit)
THIS one is: https://www.denniskirk.com/flanders/mini-ape-hanger-chrome-handlebar-650-28096.p595648.prd/595648.sku

Keep in mind this is a temporary bar until the one I built from scratch at a CNC pipe bender is powder coated. I wanted a trial run to learn all the ins and outs. Hence a $31 sacrificial bar, just for that purpose.
The rise is about right for my needs though, if it was an inch or two shorter it would still work, but no more than that.

[heroto]

To other followers of this thread who would prefer a more upright riding position: the SR/F uses Zero's standard S and SR low and forward bars. Great for some, not for all. For those of us who prefer or for various reasons downright require a more upright position, surely there are alternative tapered bars that match Zero specs without pitching the rider forward, and do not require more cable length. Someone smart and wise on this forum may know who is already making that option. Just replace the bars, maybe also with an inch or two of bar risers and (for some of us) problem solved.
Looking forward to advice from you wise ones.

[NetPro]

To other followers of this thread who would prefer a more upright riding position: the SR/F uses Zero's standard S and SR low and forward bars. Great for some, not for all. For those of us who prefer or for various reasons downright require a more upright position, surely there are alternative tapered bars that match Zero specs without pitching the rider forward, and do not require more cable length. Someone smart and wise on this forum may know who is already making that option. Just replace the bars, maybe also with an inch or two of bar risers and (for some of us) problem solved.
Looking forward to advice from you wise ones.

Right you are, heroto, they do make such a thing: I tried one but wasn't high enough for me to sit up straight. See attachment.
=PTP002I-X001-Y002]https://www.motosport.com/pro-taper-evo-adventure-handlebars-oversize-118?variant[PTP002I]=PTP002I-X001-Y002

It is the right thickness in the clamp area and the controls too, just not high enough if you want to truly sit up straight in the SR/F with the high seat installed.
Hard as I looked, did not find another one higher with the same tapered configuration but that is not to say it doesn't exist.

Because the stock handlebar has about a 2 in. rise, this bar provides an extra couple of inches of rise which might be all that some people need and in that case, it is perfect if you don't mind the white/yellow stuff printed on it.
If using this bar, only other thing needed is the brake line as I was not able to get the stock one to reach it without pulling too much when turning to the left.
I provided info on this earlier in this thread. It is not hard to do and you'll only need to drill 5 holes on the new bar and tap thread to 2 of them, as described earlier.
I considered adding a bar riser but decided not to because it looks like the bar then would block the bottom of the screen, as it lays low, right behind the bar. I may have overestimated how high the risers would put the bar and this may not be an issue.

I am very happy I took the time end effort to make this mod: I find my bike a lot more comfortable now and my back stopped complaining.


Hopefully, someone will know of higher bars with the tapered configuration and will post links to them.

[WrightWells]

Does anyone have a before and after picture using these Pro Taper Evo Adventure bars?

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

[siai47]

Tried to post a picture for you but that photo needs to be downsized.  Bar worked out well.  Plenty of length in the wiring but the front brake hose requires either re-routing or change to a slightly longer hose.  If you have the heated grips you need a 4 mm tap and the metric drill bit for it to install the heated grip on the left side along with various drills to put holes in the bar for the anti-rotation nubs in the various controls.  Be really careful when removing the throttle assembly as springs and things come out of it (don't ask me how I know).  The trick is to loosen the front "shell" of the assembly just enough to get the nub out of the bar.  Holding the rear shell with your thumb, slide the throttle off the bar and then push the two shells back together and tighten the screws until you are ready to reinstall it on the new bar.  This keeps the internal parts in place without the stupid return spring from flying out.  Also, if you have heated grips make sure the wire from the grip is routed properly through the front shell.

The bar is about 3 inches higher and 2 inches wider than the factory bar.  You cannot cut the bar length down as there is only 8 inches of 7/8 inch diameter bar at the ends and you need all of it to mount the controls.  I strongly believe the factory bar is also a Pro Taper by looking at the design and the wall thickness but is a lot lower.  If you are looking for a more upright, standard motorcycle seating position and not the "streetfighter" stance, this bar will do the trick.  Almost all of my weight is now taken off my arms.  This is what I disliked about the factory bar--I am looking for a bike to ride, not race from every stop light.