I test-rode an SR/F yesterday and my first thought was that the foot pegs were too high. In fact, the position hurt my legs a little and I figured that I had just saved myself a bunch of money. Much to my amazement within a minute or two the pain left and the position didn’t bother me any more. The seat to handlebar geometry isn’t much different than my SR though I must admit I am quite interested to see if anyone has luck with risers as I wouldn’t mind being a little more upright. I rode the the top model with the 2 chargers so I was expecting it to feel heavy but it wasn’t that bad (all of my reasons for not buying one were melting away). I don’t really need fast charging so if I order one it will be the single charger model to save weight and money. I really like the bike. Very smooth and solid and dips into turns very easily. The salesman told me to stay in Street Mode but it didn’t feel any faster than my SR so I quickly pulled over and put it in Sport. Now we’re talking. It feels quicker than the SR around town, especially from a stop, and on the highway there is a huge difference in acceleration. I whacked the throttle at 70mph and was surprised at how hard it threw me back. This is a seriously quick machine. I had been telling myself that I don’t need anything more powerful than my SR but now I want the SR/F anyway. Besides, I really would like to have the electronic safety features. Even though the riding position is on the sporty side, it is nowhere near a supersport and after riding it, I think my 67-year-old bod can adapt. I had gone to the dealership to sell my Honda on consignment and the salesman knew me from buying my SR there so he told me to take the SR/F out for a ride. Damn good sales technique.
I am happy to tell you that the folks at Zero made the wiring long enough to allow a handlebar with up to 10 inches rise and 5.5 pullback.
You can't go higher without having to extend the wiring but a 10 in. rise is pretty good if you just want to sit straight.
It is mostly done by freeing the bundled cables from their zip ties and often slightly changing the INTERNAL path the cables take to the handlebar. Once done, exterior looks of the cables are the same.
I will write a detailed article later with pictures but for the time being, here is a summary:
Don't laugh but this is what I chose for now:
https://www.denniskirk.com/quadboss/black-7-8-in-suzuki-oem-bend-handlebar-12-368.p5902801.prd/5902801.skuThe idea was to further customize it by bending the ends downwards but I could not find a shop willing to do it. While looking for one, found this place where they can make handlebars from scratch, with a CNC pipe bender, to your liking and I had one made but now it must be powder coated before I can put it on and it will take a week.
Handlebar has to be 7/8 in. diameter at the controls. If using one with 7/8 clamping area, you will need the shims below.
I first tried a
Pro Taper Evo Adventure High Bend Handlebar 1-1/8" which actually is perfect for the SR/F because it has 7/8 ends and 1 1/8 clamp area but it comes with only about 4 in. rise and I did not like that I was still leaning forward a bit, so I went ahead and bought one with a 10.5 in rise.
Given that the stock bar has about a 2 in. rise, the extra 2 in. did not help much.
Because the SR/F clamp is 1 1/8 you need shims. These will work:
https://tboltusa.com/store/brp-18-to-78-handlebar-adapters-p-10682.htmlThe brake line has to be replaced regardless of the rise: there is not much wiggle room there. For my 10.5 in. riser I got a line 21 in. long and a 10MM 35 degrees banjo with a AN#3 on the other end. The stock line is about 16 in long.
This is what I used:
https://www.denniskirk.com/magnum-shielding/black-pearl-designer-series-abs-upper-brake-line-35-10mm-21-in-as47121.p1910487.prd/1910487.skuThe most difficult part to find was the banjo that goes on the other end affixed to the ABS controller: 10 MM 90 degrees side sweep:
https://classictube.com/product/brake-hose-fitting-an-3-3-8-10mm-x-1-0-x-3an-3-8-24-90-degree-side-sweep-chrome/You have to drill 5 holes of different metric sizes and tap thread to 2 of them (for the left heated grip, as I have a premium model) You might need to buy a metric tap for this or change the 2 small screws to SAE type if you prefer.
4 copper crush washers will be needed too as well as very small and medium size black tie wraps.
Of course it is a tedious job: having to remove the headlight, the display and several other parts around the front and draining the hydraulic fluid to replace the line. Not fun.
But let me tell you:
It was worth it! I truly love being able to sit straight on that beast and let it go. It is a heck of a lot more comfortable now (for me anyways with my bad back)
I was a bit concerned the high handlebar would make it hard to "command" the machine but to my surprise, it did not and is as easy to maneuver as before, whether at high speed, on a winding road or to position it in the right spot in the garage.
And the whole thing is fully reversible: As long as I don't loose the stock handlebar and brake line, I can put it back the way it was in just a few hours.
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Topic: SR F could have been more versatile? (Read 2352 times)