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[pacificcricket]

The " HEAVY DUTY " cords are mostly 14AWG so you either have to

If I'm not mistaken, 15A branch circuits are typically wired with 14AWG which is the minimum AWG required by NEC. So it's somewhat pointless to go with a beefier cable unless the issue is one is fairly far from the outlet.

[Curt]

The FX charges at only 5.5A/650W. When I plug the cord in, there is a delay of 3 seconds before the contactor actuates, so no arcing occurs. When I pull the plug after charging has stopped, again there can be no arcing. Occasionally if I must unplug before full charge, I say "Alexa, turn off Zero charger" before unplugging.

(The J1772 EVSE for my EV car prevents arcing by stopping the current when it detects the plug being withdrawn.)

I use a cord reel mounted on the ceiling: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JQAVFC. It has magnificent form and function. At 1875W rating with 12ga hi temp wire, it will not overheat, and it locks so there is no mechanical torque on the inlet.

Temperatures measured via IR gun during charging:
67F - ambient
67F - section of 12ga cord
69F - case of cord reel
77F - rows of cord inside reel (cord insulation rating 221F)
92F - my palm
91F - 5-15P to C13 short adapter cable and plug ends - warm to touch
134F - inlet housing - too hot to touch more than a few seconds

If higher models take double the wattage, I could see the inlet housing getting extremely hot. Zero should probably use better connectors than C13/C14.

[T.S. Zarathustra]

I tried cleaning the contacts, both inside the cable (with a file) and the male pins on the bike (with electrical contact cleaner), but it didn't work. I bought a replacement cable, which seemed to work for a short time, but it got hot again pretty soon. At this time I also started having problems with the bike tripping GFCI outlets.
This spring, when I took it out of storage, I noticed that the cable was burned  around the neutral pin in the cable end. I bought two new cables, one for work, and one for home. They both burned in the same way. I bought two new cables, which were "medical grade" NEMA5-15P/C13 14 Ga cables, and then cleaned the pins in the connector in bike using a file. The first couple of charges seemed to stay cool, but then the cable discolored and then burned on the following charge.

Most connectors come with coating on the contact surfaces that is designed to reduce oxidation (oxidation creates resistance, resistance creates heat when current is flowing) When "cleaning" "using a file" you are removing that coating, so in very short while oxidation builds up and connectors start to heat and burn. I would recommend replacing all connectors with new ones and make sure you don't connect or disconnect the cable while current is flowing.

[Doug S]

Most connectors come with coating on the contact surfaces that is designed to reduce oxidation (oxidation creates resistance, resistance creates heat when current is flowing) When "cleaning" "using a file" you are removing that coating, so in very short while oxidation builds up and connectors start to heat and burn. I would recommend replacing all connectors with new ones and make sure you don't connect or disconnect the cable while current is flowing.

I'd agree that a file is too rough. I'd recommend spray-on contact cleaner designed for the purpose, followed by inserting and removing the plug (with the power off) several times to burnish the contacts. If you really feel the need to scrub, use nothing more abrasive than a pencil eraser. It may not bring the contacts back to bright and shiny, but that's not always necessary. If this treatment doesn't bring the contacts back to serviceable condition, or if the contacts have worn and provide too much or too little spring tension, it's time to replace it.

[2013ZeroSMarc]

Instead of dealing with the bad c13/14 connectors, would it make more sense to just swap out the connection on the bike with a standard 110 v male end?  Has anyone done so?  Then you could just use a standard and 15amp+ rated extension cord?  thanks! 

[Too little too late]

When I first got my "S" the previous owner was charging the bike with a 16 gauge computer cord. After a very short time charging, it was too hot to touch. I replaced the 16 with a 14 gauge cord, and it was still hotter than I thought it should be, so I replaced it with a 7 foot 12 gauge cord. It now go's to a network switch and is only warm to the touch. It's scheduled to charge from midnight to 6 in the morning, and if it's above 30 % at midnight 6 hours is a full charge. If it needs longer to charge it can pick it up the next night. I also keep a 10 foot 12 gauge cord with the bike just because. Just like a 20 amp outlet holds the plug much tighter, a 12 gauge cord is quite firm in the bike.

[Specter]

I am a bit late to this thread but.

Yes, code may say that a branch circuit is breakered at 15 amps and the plug itself can handle 15 amps, but in real life, they will NOT HOLD UP to hours upon hours of this current.  You WILL burn up the plugs!  BOTH SIDES of it.

They get hot, which at first may not be that big of a deal, it's just 'warm' but over time the female spreads, gets looser, now it gets very hot up in there, and then that makes the problem worse, now stuff starts melting / burning up.

Charging your car / bike is going to take HOURS !  You might get 6 months out of this cord before it's wrecked.  BTW as it burns itself out if it starts arcing / snapping, that little ripple or noise, whatever you want to call it, the harmonics of that tends to be real shitty on hi freq switching power supplies / chargers, especially any electrolytic caps in there, you will bulge them.

IF you must run 14 gauge, id recommend 10 amps MAX.  If you are running 12 Ga, id recommend 12 amps before it starts getting too hot after time.  This is of course if you are running a 25 or less foot cord.  If you are running 100 feet of cable, the line drop is going to get you as well..

Aaron

[Floki]

My stock cord has always seemed a little loose at the bike and was warm during charging. I replaced it with this 12 awg cord and it’s a good snug connection and completely cool to the touch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078V9K14V?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

[Motoproponent]

They get hot, which at first may not be that big of a deal, it's just 'warm' but over time the female spreads, gets looser, now it gets very hot up in there, and then that makes the problem worse, now stuff starts melting / burning up.

Aaron

mmmhhhhhmmmmm   giggity.

But seriously, Mrs. Motoproponent has a DSR that has been her daily commuter for going on 4 years now. I got a replacement 14 awg cord from a computer supply house a few years ago after I noticed the stocker getting warm. The replacement is pretty high quality as it is designed for servers that pull significant wattage continuously for years. We have it plugged into an Alexa powered smart switch so we can tell the bot to charge later at night when power is cheaper. $30 for the cord, $25 for the smart switch. Money well spent if I can sleep at night without worrying about a garage fire.