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[alko]

Zero has both a seat that is almost an inch higher and one that is an inch lower than the standard seat.

AF1racing has the part up on their website

https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=97894&sku=ZM27-08107&description=Zero+MC%27s+Driver+Saddle+Tall+%2D+ZM27%2D08096

I guess it would indeed solve any issues one would have with cramped legs.

I bought one of those seats from AF1 a couple of weeks ago and put it side-by-side with the original on a table and it is indeed about 1 inch taller but I got to say, I did not feel any difference while riding the bike.
One inch is just not enough increase in height to make a noticeable difference (perhaps a minuscule one) but at least it was a move in the right direction.
Now, I didn't change it to alleviate cramped legs, just trying to have the legs less bent while sitting on the bike. I am 6' tall.
I am afraid lowering the pegs would be the only solution but it doesn't bother me too much at this time.

Maybe someone can design an adaptor to lower the foot pegs. I used to be in the business of building accessories but those days have passed

[vinceherman]

Zero sells this: https://www.zeromotorcycles.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_4&products_id=205

I bought one to go with the SR/F I had on order but it works just well on my EsseEsse9. Only $10 for a slick little doodad.

My dealer has one that I looked at.  But with the limited storage available on the SR/F, I did not want to dedicate that much room.  I saw the suggestion for a hair tie.  My wife has those in abundance.  If they work, I'll keep one on the mirror and a few in the tank storage.

[alko]

Tipped my SF/F over in the driveway this morning.  It just rolled off the stand (thought it was flat, but not flat enough).  No damage and I was able to stand it up on my own.  Not thrilled with myself.  Anyone else notice any instability on the stand on the SR/F?

Steve

The lack of a parking brake on a $20,000 electric bike is mind boggling.

[BigPoppa]

My dealer has one that I looked at.  But with the limited storage available on the SR/F, I did not want to dedicate that much room.  I saw the suggestion for a hair tie.  My wife has those in abundance.  If they work, I'll keep one on the mirror and a few in the tank storage.

I find it fits fine in my jacket pocket while riding to and from work. Whenever I park the bike I slip it over the brake and throttle. I haven't run across a need to store it on the bike or in my backpack/tailbag.

[Jarrett]

Tipped my SF/F over in the driveway this morning.  It just rolled off the stand (thought it was flat, but not flat enough).  No damage and I was able to stand it up on my own.  Not thrilled with myself.  Anyone else notice any instability on the stand on the SR/F?

Steve

The lack of a parking brake on a $20,000 electric bike is mind boggling.

It is a bit odd.  Even my daughter's $3500 (used) NC700X DCT has a parking brake, all the Honda DCT models do from top to bottom.  And they are extremely handy. That said... I hardly ever use them for parking.  But my DCT bikes also have a center stand installed as well.

I have to say (minus the SR/F) there is definitely a "cutting corners" feel on the Zero's I've ridden compared to say Honda models.  The DSR/SR's remind me quality wise of Honda's entry level bikes at a third of the price.  I guess you pay a premium for that electric tech.  The SR/F is different of course, feeling more like a $20k bike in terms of quality, imo.

On my DSR and FX, I haven't noticed any stand weirdness.  I don't know if its just from riding the DCT bikes or what, but I haven't had any close calls with them rolling.  I do wish the stand was a little longer on the DSR as I feel it leans over a bit too far.

I did ride a SR the other day (cool bike, wish my DSR was near that performance) and the stand on it gave me a little concern.  Maybe the SR/F stand is similar.

[stevenh]

Tipped my SF/F over in the driveway this morning.  It just rolled off the stand (thought it was flat, but not flat enough).  No damage and I was able to stand it up on my own.  Not thrilled with myself.  Anyone else notice any instability on the stand on the SR/F?

Steve

The lack of a parking brake on a $20,000 electric bike is mind boggling.

It is a bit odd.  Even my daughter's $3500 (used) NC700X DCT has a parking brake, all the Honda DCT models do from top to bottom.  And they are extremely handy. That said... I hardly ever use them for parking.  But my DCT bikes also have a center stand installed as well.

I have to say (minus the SR/F) there is definitely a "cutting corners" feel on the Zero's I've ridden compared to say Honda models.  The DSR/SR's remind me quality wise of Honda's entry level bikes at a third of the price.  I guess you pay a premium for that electric tech.  The SR/F is different of course, feeling more like a $20k bike in terms of quality, imo.

On my DSR and FX, I haven't noticed any stand weirdness.  I don't know if its just from riding the DCT bikes or what, but I haven't had any close calls with them rolling.  I do wish the stand was a little longer on the DSR as I feel it leans over a bit too far.

I did ride a SR the other day (cool bike, wish my DSR was near that performance) and the stand on it gave me a little concern.  Maybe the SR/F stand is similar.

I know on my other ICE bikes I usually just left it in first when I stopped.  That pretty much kept it from rolling unless you were on a VERY steep hill!  I never had the problem with my '16 DSR, but perhaps I was just lucky.  I was in an un-familiar driveway and it did have a forward incline (clear after the fact).  I have the Zero cheap parking brake from my DSR (clamp on the brake).  I'll get in the habit of using it!

Steve

[vinceherman]

Some recent events in my SR/F life.

• 1500+ miles!  WOOT!
• Today's commute consumed 30% of my battery, a best for me.  I kept it between 60 and 65 and followed work trucks for the draft.  Even at 4 lengths back I can feel a large difference when the truck changes lanes and I need to go looking for another one to follow.
• My wife's hair bands were not effective as a parking brake.  A bit too long to give enough tension but too short to wrap twice around.  Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost.  They arrive today.
• I am curious about the cruise control.  Works great on the interstate.  But it seams to perform poorly on hills at slower speeds.  I ride the metro-parks a lot.  I set the cruise at about 32 (in a 30) to reduce the amount I piss off the other traffic. (I still pull over occasionally to let backed up traffic by)  The poor behavior comes when I hit a hill.  It is not uncommon for the bike to slow to 28mph the entire way up the hill.  Some deviation when I first hit the hill is expected.  But the extended period with such a large error from the target makes me think that the PID parameters are not set right. Has anyone else noticed this?
• I think that it is pretty cool that the cruise uses regen on the down side of the hill to keep you from going over the set point

[vinceherman]

Oh, and I should probably clarify, the 30% used is not quite an apples to apples comparison to my earlier commutes.
51% used at 85+mph. 
40% used at 65+mph.
30% used at 60-65mph *with* minor drafting behind box trucks.

[stevenh]

Some recent events in my SR/F life.

• 1500+ miles!  WOOT!
• Today's commute consumed 30% of my battery, a best for me.  I kept it between 60 and 65 and followed work trucks for the draft.  Even at 4 lengths back I can feel a large difference when the truck changes lanes and I need to go looking for another one to follow.
• My wife's hair bands were not effective as a parking brake.  A bit too long to give enough tension but too short to wrap twice around.  Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost.  They arrive today.
• I am curious about the cruise control.  Works great on the interstate.  But it seams to perform poorly on hills at slower speeds.  I ride the metro-parks a lot.  I set the cruise at about 32 (in a 30) to reduce the amount I piss off the other traffic. (I still pull over occasionally to let backed up traffic by)  The poor behavior comes when I hit a hill.  It is not uncommon for the bike to slow to 28mph the entire way up the hill.  Some deviation when I first hit the hill is expected.  But the extended period with such a large error from the target makes me think that the PID parameters are not set right. Has anyone else noticed this?
• I think that it is pretty cool that the cruise uses regen on the down side of the hill to keep you from going over the set point

Approaching 700 miles here.  Hey, you going to bring it in for service as suggested in the manual (600 miles)?  I skipped that on my last bike., I probably will with this one as well.  I'm consistently getting better range than I did with my DSR (13.0 battery).  Not to bad considering the weight difference.  I used just under 30% getting to a nearby lake from home (39 miles, 50/50 70MPH/45MPH).  With the DSR that same trip was 35-40%.

Steve

Steve

[Jarrett]

Oh, and I should probably clarify, the 30% used is not quite an apples to apples comparison to my earlier commutes.
51% used at 85+mph. 
40% used at 65+mph.
30% used at 60-65mph *with* minor drafting behind box trucks.

That's one of the things that bums me out about Zero's.  You buy this bike that has crazy torque specs thinking you'll just be ripping around with it all the time, but reality is you find yourself drafting box trucks at 60 mph to try and get better economy out of them...  I used to do the same thing on the highway with my $3500 Honda CRF250L.

Zero Marketing:



Zero Reality:

[potboiler]

enough tension but too short to wrap twice around.  Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost. 

Just an idea - would it be just as easy to place a small wooden chock in front of either wheel to stop it rolling off the stand when facing downhill?

[Richard230]

I wouldn't continue to draft trucks, or any vehicle for that matter.  I used to do that with my 1962 Vespa 125 motor scooter when it was legal to ride such things on the freeway.  But I learned that is a very dangerous tactic just to try to increase range, or in my case trying to maintain freeway speeds.  You never know when a truck will kick something nasty into you, drive over a big piece of debris (like a loose muffler) that you won't see until it is too late, or in my case suddenly changing lanes in front of you, exposing a mattress sitting in the middle of the lane, just 100 feet away while traveling at 60 mph.     After that little episode, I gave up drafting trucks and started giving them a lot more room in front of me.   

[Richard230]

enough tension but too short to wrap twice around.  Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost. 

Just an idea - would it be just as easy to place a small wooden chock in front of either wheel to stop it rolling off the stand when facing downhill?

Velco straps are still the best solution to holding the front brake lever against the handlebar grip.  They are very cheap, weigh nothing and take up very little space in a pocket or tank bag.  Or you could even wrap it around the handlebar when not in use. With the strap you can adjust the tension on the brake handle by just squeezing the brake and fastening the strap around the handle to keep it in place. Since the strap will not stretch, it will not change tension while in place. 

[gadgetgirl]

• My wife's hair bands were not effective as a parking brake.  A bit too long to give enough tension but too short to wrap twice around.  Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost.  They arrive today.

Did you use the little knob on the brake level to adjust the pull distance?

Approaching 700 miles here.  Hey, you going to bring it in for service as suggested in the manual (600 miles)?  I skipped that on my last bike., I probably will with this one as well.  I'm consistently getting better range than I did with my DSR (13.0 battery).  Not to bad considering the weight difference.  I used just under 30% getting to a nearby lake from home (39 miles, 50/50 70MPH/45MPH).  With the DSR that same trip was 35-40%.

Steve

Do you, or anyone else on here, have a guess at how much that 600mi service might cost? I'm just trying to get a ballpark. I could handle the checking things, and greasing the brake lever, but I don't know what "Commissioning and timing" means.

[Richard230]

• My wife's hair bands were not effective as a parking brake.  A bit too long to give enough tension but too short to wrap twice around.  Even 2 bands let the bike roll easily. Not to worry, I did order a pack of 25 of the 6" bungees like the one I lost.  They arrive today.

Did you use the little knob on the brake level to adjust the pull distance?

Approaching 700 miles here.  Hey, you going to bring it in for service as suggested in the manual (600 miles)?  I skipped that on my last bike., I probably will with this one as well.  I'm consistently getting better range than I did with my DSR (13.0 battery).  Not to bad considering the weight difference.  I used just under 30% getting to a nearby lake from home (39 miles, 50/50 70MPH/45MPH).  With the DSR that same trip was 35-40%.

Steve

Do you, or anyone else on here, have a guess at how much that 600mi service might cost? I'm just trying to get a ballpark. I could handle the checking things, and greasing the brake lever, but I don't know what "Commissioning and timing" means.

I paid $200 for the first service last year for my 2018 S, which required 1.75 hours of labor and no parts.  It consisted of checking over the bike's chassis, checking for the latest firmware and "commissioning" the motor to sync up the controller with the motor's internal sensors that tell it where the motor's magnets are as it spins around. Getting that exactly right should improve performance, increase efficiency and reduce the heat generated as the motor operates.