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[idle]

2016 DSR, approaching 20k miles - not sure if older posts are still relevant so posting now

I have a fear that the stock calex charger will just up and die on me. There are many posts about Zero's stock chargers dying around the miles I'm approaching and I'd rather be prepared. I sold my Suzuki and decided to live the high risk low reward(?) lifestyle of owning a zero as my only vehicle (actually pretty high reward if u ask me)

I keep a spare belt at home but it's time to keep a charger there too, so what's out there? Is another calex cheapest? Is there some verified-working off brand out someone has had success with?

As for diginow, I think I remember reading somewhere that they aren't providing the 3.3kWh anymore?? If they are, I could keep a charger off the bike if it means no installation is required, but last I checked diginow's website wasn't easy to get to or even understand in layman, there were a lot of components I had no idea if I needed.

So what's the charger scene like in June 2019? Anyone point me to the right spot? thx

[NEW2elec]

I think a replacement Calex charger is around $800 to $1000 installed.  Sadly I couldn't see myself without an on board charger for any unforeseen problem where I'd kick myself for not having one.

I'm hoping (along with others) that Zero updates or upgrades this charger so even if i do need to replace it that it's only once.

I think you may be right about Diginow not offering just the 3.3 any more but I'm sure they'll chime in.

You might find a used Elcon charger from Hollywood Electric but the easiest and cheapest (if $600 is cheap) is the Quiq charger Zero offers.
You can get one new from your dealer and people post them for sale on here from time to time.

You do need to make sure whatever charger you get is programed for Zero and not just a "dumb" charger, your asking for trouble.
Also if you see a Quiq charger make sure it's a 96V one and not the old 72V from the pre 2013 models.

I have one and love it.  It puts my 50% charge time to about 2.5 hours (with the on board) and I have a working theory that limiting the time that Calex runs may increase it's life span but we'll see.

The Quiq charger can also balance your cells at full SOC even if your Calex dies.

[idle]

Thx, looks like the Quiq is probably the easiest backup I can get. This leads to a technical question because as I recall - you have to key on the bike first in order to get a charge going? Someone backed into the bike last year and crushed the ignition switch, attached is an image of its new ignition, would this work just the same or is it possible that this would interfere with the Quiq charger?

Also! Very old house, what is the amp draw from the quiq's on a 120? Would it be about the same as the calex? I can use 240v if it works out about the same in the end, thx

[NEW2elec]

Wow that's a wicked curve ball you just threw.
Well as long as the contactor is closed it should turn on the charger.  If there is more to it than that, one of the EE's would have to chime in.
You really must not like getting things fixed at the dealer huh?   

[Richard230]

I just replaced the stock Calex charger with a new one.  The retail price was $800.  It is a new model and has some sort of an electronic box on the AC input cord, which was not on the original version. It was relatively easy to install, using Zeroland's video. The old charger didn't just stop working without warning.  It slowly started cutting off at lower and lower voltages over a period of a couple of years. The new charger has been working perfectly and has been charging my daughter's 2014 S w/PT to 117 volts again, just like the old charger did when the bike was new.   

Attached is a photo of the new charger model.

[carldev]

My guess is the box on the input contains a ferrite bead added to meet UL requirements.  The new box is revision 'B'.  You know if the dying one was a different revision?
I have been a little obsessive and run a fan on a separate plug to blow cool air over my charger whenever in use.

edit:
Found the charger data sheet on Green Watt Powers website.  The photo in the data sheet shows revision 'A'.  Anyone know when these were redesigned?

-Carl

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

It is a new model and has some sort of an electronic box on the AC input cord, which was not on the original version.

It sounds like they've finally decided to install a "transient suppression filter", which I would applaud. This should minimize the commonly observed sparking on plugin of the AC inlet to the onboard charger. There is a reasonable hypothesis that this contributed to some failure conditions for the onboard charger.

Please let us know if this seems to be effective at reducing or eliminating the sparking.


Also, please share a close-up photo of the component if you can.

[Richard230]

It is a new model and has some sort of an electronic box on the AC input cord, which was not on the original version.

It sounds like they've finally decided to install a "transient suppression filter", which I would applaud. This should minimize the commonly observed sparking on plugin of the AC inlet to the onboard charger. There is a reasonable hypothesis that this contributed to some failure conditions for the onboard charger.

Please let us know if this seems to be effective at reducing or eliminating the sparking.


Also, please share a close-up photo of the component if you can.

Here is a photo of the box that is connected in-line with the AC cord.  I took this picture of the box on my 2018 Zero S, which likely also has the new model Calex charger.  When we installed the updated charger on my daughter's bike we were wondering where to stash the box and then we referenced the box's location on my bike to locate it in the same way that the factory did on my Zero.

I might add that I never noticed any sparking on either the 2014 Zero that didn't have the box, nor on my 2018 Zero that does.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Both my 2013 DS and 2016 DSR had sparking issues when plugging in the C14 cable, even after using contact cleaner.

It implies that there's been no inrush protection.

I definitely have seen that enclosure before, but now it makes me wonder whether it's about EMI filtering. I'm not sure and can't recall the right terms to enter into google to recall it.

[Richard230]

Both my 2013 DS and 2016 DSR had sparking issues when plugging in the C14 cable, even after using contact cleaner.

It implies that there's been no inrush protection.

I definitely have seen that enclosure before, but now it makes me wonder whether it's about EMI filtering. I'm not sure and can't recall the right terms to enter into google to recall it.

My son-in-law called it a "choke". 

[carldev]

Thanks Richard230, that is absolutely a clip on ferrite bead added for EMI to pass UL testing.
The "snap" you sometimes hear when plugging in the bike is an arc.  It should not hurt anything but if your concerned, plug the bike in first then plug the other end into the wall.

Thanks!
-Carl

[ESokoloff]

............ plug the bike in first then plug the other end into the wall.

.............

& unplug from the socket (wall) before unplugging from the bike.

[idle]

Wow that's a wicked curve ball you just threw.
Well as long as the contactor is closed it should turn on the charger.  If there is more to it than that, one of the EE's would have to chime in.
You really must not like getting things fixed at the dealer huh?   

To clarify for me, is it the case that when the bike is keyed on, the 'contactor closes' ?

Bike keyed ON . . .
Instrument cluster stuff . . .
Couple seconds . . .
*Click*

This is the contactor closing? and with a Quiq in my situation it would begin to charge while I keep the bike (switch) in the On position? Just wondering if my specific workaround would still work with a Quiq, thx!

[NEW2elec]

Sorry Idle, as far as I know yes, the bike's dash comes on you hear the click and the contactor closes and the charger should come on.  At that point you can/should turn the bike back off.  The charger should keep charging until 100%.  If you leave the bike on the head light can and will melt the lens cover.
If it does not work this way then there may be something else the the key switch does that your toggle switch does not.

[Electric Cowboy]

Your switch will not interfere with charging.

None of my Zeros have ignitions. Pull starts, missile switches, RFID etc.