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[FlipOW]

Hi folks,

Last october I bought a 2013 DS. In great condition, with e.g. the 2017 12,5 batt. replacement and new wheels. I am very happy with the bike. Also via this forum I am getting more and more acqainted with typical Zero issues, tips and tricks.

Last week I noticed that the belt was quite heavily touching the sprocket shoulder. So I decided to realign the belt following the various video’s and written manuals. Very helpful!

After I aligned the belt properly (1mm gap on both sides of the sprocket) I checked the belt tension a few times and found out that the measerements are varying slitghly. In one of the manuals this was mentioned that is comes due to design. But I found the range in variation of measerement too big, so I took some repeating measerements (with the rearwheel in four positions, each 90dgr turned).

The outcome suprised me: it seems that one of the sprockets is oval! Measerements were as follow: 28kg / 33kg / 40kg / 31kg. Initally I adjusted the tension in only position one, before I noticed the variation. So to get a proper tension I will loose the tension a bit anyhow to get in the 20-30kg range as advised. But I am concerned about the sprocket being oval that much. With just the eyeball I cannot suspect anything by the way.

Another issue is that the belt is aligned perfectly, but the wheel indicators are not aligned. I know these indicators are not that precise, but probably these issues are related to each other?

Any feedback is welcome, as I didn’t get that much results with the search function. Cheers from The Netherlands!

[Starpower]

Hold a pointer (pen, screwdriver, etc.) on the swingarm with the tip just touching the rear pulley (Sprocket) and rotate the wheel off the ground. This will quickly show how true the pulley is. It is unimaginable that the front pulley is out of round. Rather than oval I would suspect a bend producing an in and out wobble.

[FlipOW]

I checked the rear sprocket as advised. While holding a pointer on the swingarm I noticed a very slight axial play / wobble, but defenitely <0,5mm. No horizontal play. Also checked the sprocket and belt teeth on any damage, but both seems to be good.

Meanwhile I set the belt tension a bit loose, all measurements are now > 21 - 30 < kg (with Krikit Gauge). But still varying too much from my opinion..

[Doug S]

Belts and chains never wear equally all the way around. You've got the classic signs of uneven wear; some spots are a little tighter, some a little looser.

To verify it's the belt, check when the tight spot (or loose spot) comes around again. If it's exactly one belt rotation later, it's the belt. If it's less than that (as many belt teeth as the rear sprocket has), it's the sprocket.

Uneven wear is unavoidable, and even to be expected. As long as it isn't excessive, it doesn't cause any particular problems.

[alko]

Hold a pointer (pen, screwdriver, etc.) on the swingarm with the tip just touching the rear pulley (Sprocket) and rotate the wheel off the ground. This will quickly show how true the pulley is. It is unimaginable that the front pulley is out of round. Rather than oval I would suspect a bend producing an in and out wobble.

I believe if you have an out of round sprocket, the bike would vibrate violently. If it doesnt, there's nothing to worry about imo.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

It's also worth checking whether the sprocket has become dirty unevenly. Cleaning the rear sprocket with a soft brush or something might knock loose some impacted dirt between the teeth that are pressing on the belt.

I've had milk carton cardboard get drawn between my belt and rear sprocket, and it made a noticeable difference to the feel of the ride, even after getting flattened. So, it doesn't take much debris at all to change the belt tension.

[ESokoloff]

I had the same situation with my 2016 DSR.
Unfortinitly I don't have exact documentation in note form but I have a video showing the deviation as shown with a dial indicator.
Maximum deviation was .012" and I believe that equated to a max. belt tension deviation of 20kg.
Fortunately the bike was still in warranty & Hollywood Electric replaced it (rear sprocket).


Here are my belt tensioning observations & procedures.....

(20/30kg)
Jacking left screw(bolt) out (adding tension) moves the belt to the right.
Best to get the belt in the correct (sprocket) position (left/right) then adjust tension.
NOTE: Position belt with a right side biases as it will shift to the left when the axle bolt is tightened.     
Must use rolling head prybar to pry the right side towards its jack-screw (or just Smack the tire/rim in the desired direction)
NOTE: 1/6 turn of Left jack screw appears to cause a 10KG difference to tension.
Use 1-1/16" socket to tension axle nut to 102NM (75#/')

 (I don't have the correct Metric socket but found that 1-1/16" is close enough to work).
P.S.  Recomend first removing each Jack bolt & grinding down the raised print on the heads to prevent digging into the soft aluminum of the swing arm.
Also apply some anti-seize to the threads before re-installing.