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[MVetter]

**Update** I think I got the values I was after. I've updated the figures below. Thanks, all!

I wanted to compile a reference list of all the Amp Hours for the various Zero batteries. Not the listed pack kWh or the listed Ah on the sticker, but what the bike actually sees the battery as. I can't trust the sticker per se because the 2.8kWh pack lists 25Ah but the bike reads it as 22. I guess all I really need are the Ah of the various short bricks and can extrapolate from there, but I'd like to put it in table form eventually. For example, I know the following values based on what the bike reads:

2.8kWh short brick = 22Ah
3.3kWh short brick = 26Ah
3.6kWh short brick = 28.5Ah

5.7kWh FX (2x short) = 44Ah
6.5kWh long brick = 52Ah
7.2kWh long brick = 57Ah

9.8kWh monolith = 78Ah (comprised of 3x 3.3kWh short bricks)
11.2kWh monolith = 88Ah
13kWh monolith = 104Ah
14.4kWh monolith = 114Ah

This'll mostly just be a handy reference for me but I thought others might see value in it as well. Thanks!

[flattetyre]

Zero gives you about 80% of the ACTUAL capacity and then you get between 80 and 100% of that depending on age and battery wear.

You should use watt hours instead of amp hours for consistency. A amp hour at the end of the pack delivers less energy than a amp hour at the beginning of the pack. A watt hour is a watt hour.

[MVetter]

Watt hours are merely a calculation of Amp hours times nominal voltage. In short, you need Amp hours to calculate Watt hours.

[hubert]

The real Wh are an integral sum of the instant V*A*dt (dt means mathematical short time increment), therefore the chemistry's discharge voltage curve has an influence on it. And also the discharge rate, ambiant temperature etc.

What is really false is multiplying the Ah by the max voltage (when fully charged). And this is exaxtly what Zero does when advertising a model's capacity.

[Electric Cowboy]

Hey guys, just to qualify some stuff here :

A 13kWh pack is reported as a real 104Ah and the pack is 102v nominal

104Ah * 102vdc = 10.608 kWh real useable
now... 104vdc * 116.4 = 12.1056 marketing watts
Then some other numbers get massaged to make a 13kWh marketing number

So the real amp hours and nominal voltage are super important to know. A 13kWh pack is actually a usable 10.6 kWh pack.

Morgan is correct to wonder what the other pack Ah are as it is the only way to calculate what useable capacity is. Not to mention... C rate is based solely and only on Ah...

If you did not think Ah was important before, I hope this will help make it clear that it is truly important. On top of this, it means that knowing the Ah you can calculate battery capacity condition by measuring the watt hours that go in while charging from 95vdc. If 100% on a 13kWh battery is 10.6 kWh then 80% on a 13kWh battery would be 8.1 kWh absorbed.

Ah are important to understand if you are doing anything more than scratching the surface of batteries.

Good luck and happy learning!

[flattetyre]

The Ah of the pouches Zero uses from Farasis are already known and listed on the Wiki for different model years. The individual modules are all 28 series count for the last few years.

Energy calculation (marketing): 28 (series count) * 4.2 (full charge voltage) * Capacity of cell in Ah

Energy calculation real: 28 * 3.6 (voltage halfway thru real capacity in watt-hours) * Capacity of cell in Ah
--The 3.6 is what you get if you integrate the discharge (hubert is correct) and pick the voltage at halfway thru the capacity. Why integration? Cuz you need to take voltage and current into account when discharging. I'm not 100% sure it's 3.6 for these cells but should be very close.

I don't think the OP is asking about C rating but actual energy content. And there's a convention for that: it's measured in watt hours for all the reasons explained above. As far as C rating goes the batteries are capped pretty conservatively and under favorable circumstances can charge / discharge at much higher currents than stock nannies allow, with some likely impact on cycle life / capacity.

The numbers above are what the battery can get if not limited and fully charged and drained. Real life Zero does not charge all the way to 4.2 per cell nor do they allow anything close to a full discharge. That's the soft cap giving you ~80% of real capacity, which normal degradation will again modify.

[MVetter]

The Ah of the pouches Zero uses from Farasis are already known and listed on the Wiki for different model years.

I am unable to find any such listing there. Link?

[flattetyre]

https://zeromanual.com/wiki/Unofficial_Service_Manual#Cells

[MVetter]

That appears to be the sticker listings of the batteries which are, again, marketing numbers. There's no need to overcomplicate this. All I'm asking for are the Amp hours as recognized by the bike for various battery packs.

[dalamario]

7.2kWh long brick = 57Ah

2018 FXS

[MVetter]

Perfect! Thank you. This tells me the bikes read the current highest density packs as 28.5Ah, giving a total of a 114Ah monolith.

[DanielCoffey]

My 2018 DS 7.2kWh reads 57Ah too.

[remmie]

Out of curiosity. How do you guys “read” the Ah value?

[dalamario]

Out of curiosity. How do you guys “read” the Ah value?

I use "zero voltage" app from google play store.

[remmie]

Out of curiosity. How do you guys “read” the Ah value?

I use "zero voltage" app from google play store.

Ah, that would require an android phone/tablet 
unfortunately no such app for iOS yet