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[pacificcricket]

AF1 Racing literally lists the parts you’ve asked for, and dealerships can all order them. Now, they’re not easy to find, but they’re available. You can just ask Zero’s customer support team to do parts lookups.

You could probably even ask Zero for drawings, and if you negotiate with them, it might even work. But you’re not even trying.

I’m not discounting your efforts. I’m talking about you saying falsehoods about Zero to justify what you’re doing.

I actually talked to a local dealer a while back, he couldn't get it for me. I will check AF1 Racing, thank you.

[pacificcricket]

Yup, they have it... for $350

https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=89218&sku=ZM24-08283-12&description=PAINTED+DS+TANK+TRUNK+ASSEMBLY++-+ORANGE+-+ZM24-08283-12

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Yup, they have it... for $350

https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=89218&sku=ZM24-08283-12&description=PAINTED+DS+TANK+TRUNK+ASSEMBLY++-+ORANGE+-+ZM24-08283-12

Do you want tank plastics to make a scan or copy of? Because there are some on eBay or I even have some old spare DSR plastics. I even have a centerpiece that is separate from the sides because I learned to de-weld the plastics a long time ago.

Originally I thought this was about the bag that went in the bin, anyway.

I’m just trying to figure out your motive and needs. Your dealer probably has used tank plastics you can take off their hands for cheap and have someone run a 3D scan of.

Note that your original plug part is also available for a cheap price.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

I quickly found this for cheap on AF1 (used tank at $35 over a retail of $99). You could try harder with parts search before pronouncing that parts aren’t available.

https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=95885&sku=APU_ZM24-05328-19-181101&description=Used+Tank+Assembly+for+Zero%27s

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Here’s the part page for the inlet plug, which is so inexpensive you should just buy it and take measurements or scan it if you want to print a better version.

https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=89175&sku=ZM45-04864&description=Zero+MC%27s+Charge+Cord+Dust+Rubber+%2D+ZM45%2D04864

I keep an eBay search open for Zero parts from totaled bikes just to have cheap items to examine and have for spares or reverse engineering. The idea that these things are so difficult to find that we have to create 3D models from scratch is confusing to me.

Personally, I’d like to set up a nonprofit group to work with Zero on supporting these bikes past OEM interest. It’s just that there are diplomatic concerns with asking for technical drawings etc. so I haven’t been vocal about it yet.

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Back on topic, I’ve been using waterjet services to make brackets for mounting my chargers on the bike. My current set are a sturdy and good looking version.

3D printing is suitable for certain kinds of work but bracketing is still in a different category.

I’ll be making more brackets soon for a wider variety of roles.

[pacificcricket]

Do you want tank plastics to make a scan or copy of? Because there are some on eBay or I even have some old spare DSR plastics. I even have a centerpiece that is separate from the sides because I learned to de-weld the plastics a long time ago.

I want a substitute for original semi-rigid bag. Zipper on mine failed, and overall I didn't like the concept. New bikes have the lid, so my thinking was to design something a hinged lid that would be installable into the older bikes. There are no major challenges, but reproducing the curvature turned out to be a hassle. I am getting closer, but still a bit off which will require a few more runs on that template. Once the curvature is worked out, I can actually design the parts which will roughly be

1) edge insert with lower hinged block
2) lid
3) lid hinge block
4) seal

[pacificcricket]

Here’s the part page for the inlet plug, which is so inexpensive you should just buy it and take measurements or scan it if you want to print a better version.

The plug was more like a fun exercise. It is technically more difficult to print something of that shape than to design it. Here is the model page for it:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3599516

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Do you want tank plastics to make a scan or copy of? Because there are some on eBay or I even have some old spare DSR plastics. I even have a centerpiece that is separate from the sides because I learned to de-weld the plastics a long time ago.

I want a substitute for original semi-rigid bag. Zipper on mine failed, and overall I didn't like the concept. New bikes have the lid, so my thinking was to design something a hinged lid that would be installable into the older bikes. There are no major challenges, but reproducing the curvature turned out to be a hassle. I am getting closer, but still a bit off which will require a few more runs on that template. Once the curvature is worked out, I can actually design the parts which will roughly be

1) edge insert with lower hinged block
2) lid
3) lid hinge block
4) seal

You're reproducing work that's already been done. Hollywood Electrics already did this using carbon fiber. I have a copy if you want to buy it (since I couldn't make use of it).

Zero also sells the centerpiece for the Charge Tank plastics separately, which might be a good basis for modeling. I believe this is the part number for it, priced at $40:
https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=89334&sku=ZM24-08137&description=TANK+COVER+CHARGETANK+FAIRING+CENTER+-+ZM24-08137

Otherwise, more power to you, I guess. It's too bad Zero doesn't sell the new tank in your bike's color, because that hardware would seem fine to me.

[pacificcricket]

You're reproducing work that's already been done. Hollywood Electrics already did this using carbon fiber. I have a copy if you want to buy it (since I couldn't make use of it).

That's true, but I'm not going to pay for it being "carbon fiber". If they make a cheaper ABS version, I (and many other people) will buy it.

Zero also sells the centerpiece for the Charge Tank plastics separately, which might be a good basis for modeling. I believe this is the part number for it, priced at $40:
https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=89334&sku=ZM24-08137&description=TANK+COVER+CHARGETANK+FAIRING+CENTER+-+ZM24-08137

Otherwise, more power to you, I guess. It's too bad Zero doesn't sell the new tank in your bike's color, because that hardware would seem fine to me.

Color is not the problem. It says right there in the parts list that the setup doesn't fit into the older bikes, and entire fairing assembly needs to be purchased. Additionally, I oppose buying throw away parts
just to help with the development of these models. That's just wasteful.

Finally, you still seem to miss that this is not only for me. This is for everyone who is in the same boat and carries additional motive of encouraging similar efforts.

[DonTom]

Back on topic, I’ve been using waterjet services to make brackets for mounting my chargers on the bike. My current set are a sturdy and good looking version.

The two chargers shown on your bike . . . What are they and what is your charge rate?

-Don-  Reno, NV

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Back on topic, I’ve been using waterjet services to make brackets for mounting my chargers on the bike. My current set are a sturdy and good looking version.

The two chargers shown on your bike . . . What are they and what is your charge rate?

Those are just two DigiNow units of the 2.5 era, so they deliver 6.6kW (or more).

I also own a DigiNow 3-unit pan (self-assembled, and I have it off until my next trip while I troubleshoot something) for a total of 5 units (16.5kW against a 16.3kWh max capacity battery + power tank).

[DonTom]

Those are just two DigiNow units of the 2.5 era, so they deliver 6.6kW (or more).

I also own a DigiNow 3-unit pan (self-assembled, and I have it off until my next trip while I troubleshoot something) for a total of 5 units (16.5kW against a 16.3kWh max capacity battery + power tank).

Thanks for the info. But where can you charge at 16.5 KW?  I am thinking about doing something like that with my Zero SR with Power tank. Then I will have no need for that new SR/F!  And I will still have a little better range.

What I really want is an electric  bike that can easily go between Reno, NV  and Auburn, CA  with only a short charge at the summit, so I won't get any range anxiety.   99 miles is all, but a lot of uphill! 

8 KW should be fine for me as I think that is about all the charge station at Boreal Springs can handle.

-Don- Reno, NV

[BrianTRice@gmail.com]

Those are just two DigiNow units of the 2.5 era, so they deliver 6.6kW (or more).

I also own a DigiNow 3-unit pan (self-assembled, and I have it off until my next trip while I troubleshoot something) for a total of 5 units (16.5kW against a 16.3kWh max capacity battery + power tank).

Thanks for the info. But where can you charge at 16.5 KW?  I am thinking about doing something like that with my Zero SR with Power tank. Then I will have no need for that new SR/F!  And I will still have a little better range.

What I really want is an electric  bike that can easily go between Reno, NV  and Auburn, CA  with only a short charge at the summit, so I won't get any range anxiety.   99 miles is all, but a lot of uphill! 

8 KW should be fine for me as I think that is about all the charge station at Boreal Springs can handle.

I can charge into 2 or 3 J1772 stations at a time, or 2 NEMA 14-50 plugs.

I'd *prefer* to charge from 1 or 2 Tesla destination chargers, but have been unable to keep my system working reliably enough to achieve that in practice. I have a QCP Tesla plug and a DigiNow Tesla plug (finally, after a year during which my prototype unit was returned for replacement). Neither has met what I'd call a full success yet.

[DonTom]

I can charge into 2 or 3 J1772 stations at a time, or 2 NEMA 14-50 plugs.

I'd *prefer* to charge from 1 or 2 Tesla destination chargers, but have been unable to keep my system working reliably enough to achieve that in practice. I have a QCP Tesla plug and a DigiNow Tesla plug (finally, after a year during which my prototype unit was returned for replacement). Neither has met what I'd call a full success yet.

I have a Tesla Wall Station  here as well as in my house in Auburn. I also have a couple of 40 amp Tesla Taps so I charge the bike along with a couple of Zero Quick chargers without having to run AC cords all over. My Tesla station (I hate to call them, chargers--as they are only the AC supply to the chargers)  are good for 48 amps (~11,500 watt capacity) but the Tesla Tap is only good for 40 amps (9,600 watts).

Would Tesla Taps solve your problem? My TeslaTap is the Model Dss-EV-40P-V3. They work well as long as one remembers to wait about a minute before connecting the output to any load after the AC is connected to it's input.

-Don-  Reno, NV