To remove the motor, first you have to remove the swing-arm (that is pretty straight forward) some big bolts in the pivot and disconnet the shock. you can leave the brake lines attached and just move the swingarm out of the way when the motor needs to come out. On the motor there are 8 M8 bolts holding the motor in place, 4 on the drive side, 4 on the rear side.
To disconnect the motor from the bike there is a sensor connector that unplugs, it is near the front of the contoller on the riders right side of the bike, and un-bolt the 3 phase leads to the motor controller. Those bolts only have about 12Nm of torque on them ,Once you have the motor disconnected, and un-bolted from the frame it should slide out towards the back.
Once you have the motor out of the bike you can pull it apart.
it is actually quite easy to pull apart, but requires a lot of force. you can built a little chair(width of the plate,you put it on the cooling wings)with a m10 tensioner Then you bolt an M10 eye-bolt on the pulley so you can pull on the shaft really hard (about 200lbs) and the rotor will pull out on the shaft along with the drive plate and bearings.
Once you have the shaft and rotor out, be careful as it is highly magnetic and you can get your fingers pinched quite easily on it. At that point I found that the rotor is loose on the shaft. you have to remove the rear bearing, remove the c-clip holding the rotor laminations on the shaft, use a marker or something to mark the front and back of the rotor and how it is aligned on the shaft because you are going to take it off, and it is important that it goes on in the exact same direction, otherwise the motor could spin backwards. Once you have the rotor and the shaft labeled so you can get them back together exactly the same way, slide the rotor laminations off the shaft. Clean the shaft and the inside of the laminations. Apply a lot of loctite 648 on the shaft and lamniations, then slide them back together ensuring that they go together the same way that they were before and that the loctite 648 gets well distributed between the shaft and the laminations to make a solid bond. Put the c-clip back on, put the bearing back on (or put a new bearing on since removing a bearing without damaging it is quite hard, the front and rear bearings are both 6006-2RS). When you put the new bearing on, make sure you just push on the inner race for the press fit, if you push on the outer race it will transfer the force through the balls and likely damage them. The bearing should be a press fit, if it slips on or off easily, you should glue it on with the loctite 648. Let the 648 cure for a few hours before putting the motor back together. To put the motor back together just do the same thing you did to pull it apart, but opposite. Ensure that the wave-spring is still in the bottom of the bearing pocket at the bottom of the motor., Be careful to not let the rotor slam back into place, that could damage the bearing, make sure you control the rotor,use the little chair and unscrew the tensioner to let the magnetic forces pull it back in slowly. Once it is almost all the way in, the bearing will catch on the bearing pocket. at that point it might take a little jiggling around and some force on the end of the shaft to get it to pop into place, then it could take a bit more force to get the drive-plate to re-engage with the stator case.
This is what I went thrue , i had tu buy a c-clip pliers , m10 tensioner,and borrow a hub puller at the mechanic shop (to extract the bearings)and buy high quality bearings and loctite....
This two only pictures of this I have: the rotor out with the magnet (sensor side)I was able to push the shaft out pushing on the lamination hole with a scew driver and hammer....
Second picture is the chair used to open and close the motor...
I will try later for the pictures file is too big and i’m Too bad!!!
Hope this can help anyone instead of fighting with sellers or dealers like I did....
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Topic: Zero fx needs help (Read 2568 times)